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Piaget Polo Chronograph goes panda with the new 2021 edition
Our review of the Piaget Polo Chronograph gets a line extension with the new limited edition (888 pieces) steel case with a panda dial in silver and blue.
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SJX Watches
Franck Muller Unveils Cintrée Curvex Central Tourbillon
Having proclaimed himself the “Master of Complications”, Franck Muller the man was once one of the most inventive contemporary watchmakers. He has stepped back from the business that bears his name – which is now known for its extravagant style – but the brand continues to have the occasional interesting complication. The Grand Central Tourbillon is one such watch, boasting a large, flying tourbillon at the centre of the dial. Offered in a variety of coloured dials with “exploding” numerals, the Grand Central Tourbillon is powered by an automatic, form movement that traces the shape of the brand’s signature Cintrée Curvex case. Initial thoughts Today Franck Muller is mostly associated with flashy watches like the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. But long ago Franck Muller himself debuted his first tourbillon wristwatch in 1984 – a Breguet-inspired watch with just “Franck” on the dial – the first of many tourbillons he would go on to create. The Grand Central Tourbillon evokes some of Franck Muller’s history with its unusual central tourbillon. The complication is rare, with only a handful of brands having accomplished a central tourbillon, most notable amongst them Omega and Beat Haldimann. And Franck Muller has made it more interesting – the movement is automatic with a four-day power reserve. As per the norm for the brand, the Grand Central Tourbillon is available in myriad colours and metals – some iterations almost indistinguishable from the...
Revolution
Introducing the MB&F; Legacy Machine 101 New Editions
For 2021 MB&F; is launching a new series of its Legacy Machine 101 with a trio of new dial colours and, for the first time, a watch in stainless steel.
SJX Watches
Swatch Goes Green with Big Bold in Plant-Based Plastic Composite
Having introduced the oversized Big Bold in bright, funky iterations such as the Jelly Fish Neon, Swatch is now going minimalist – and green – with the Big Bold Bioceramic. Clad in solid, pastel colours, the Big Bold Bioceramic is clean and coherent. Though simple, it manages to be interesting in both style and materials. The open-worked dial reveals some of its mechanics, while the case is composite of ceramic and plastic made from plant matter. Initial thoughts For those who appreciate the bold presence of large watches like the Royal Oak Offshore, the Big Bold is a lot of fun at a far more accessible price. So when the Big Bold was launched a few years ago, I very much liked the idea of a 47 mm plastic watch. But I found the earlier iterations to be at either extreme – too funky or too plain. The latest version, however, lands in the sweet spot for me. Vibrant in colour – especially in “power pink” or sky blue – but pared back in design, the new Big Bold also has an open-worked movement that’s intriguing despite being quartz. And the new “bio-sourced” material also adds to the appeal, as does the fact that it only costs a bit over US$100. The Big Bold is ergonomic, despite the seemingly massive diameter. With almost non-existent lugs, its lug-to-lug span is a mere 44.8 mm, a length more commonly found on watches with a diameter of around 36 mm. Despite the wide case, it wears well on most wrists, without a significant overhang on either side of the w...
Revolution
Wei Goes Hands-On With Patek’s 2021 Novelties
Wei Koh runs us through the freshly announced Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar, along with the 6119 Calatrava “Clous de Paris”, the steel 4947/1A Annual Calendar and, of course, the end of series 5711 with the olive green dial.
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Datejust 36 “Exotic Dials”
Presented at Baselworld 2018, the current generation Rolex Datejust 36 sticks to the look and feel of its predecessor, but its internals were given a thorough upgrade with a latest-generation cal. 3235 movement. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Rolex has introduced a series of textured dials for the Datejust 36, giving the model a variety of distinct looks, either a palm leaf or horizontal fluted motif. Initial Thoughts Sometimes criticised for a conservative approach to design – Rolex iterates and improves rather than redesigns – the new Datejust 36 now offers the perhaps greatest aesthetic variety in the entire Rolex line up, both in terms of dial styles and colours, but also case materials, and gem setting. Despite being individually different, the new dials fit right into Datejust collection. My favourite is the most affordable of the four, the Datejust 36 with a green dial featuring the palm frond pattern (and a domed bezel and Oyster bracelet) that instantly brings to mind a summer vacation in the tropics. Traditionalists, on the other hand, will likely be drawn to the Datejust in two-tone, yellow-gold Rolesor on a Jubilee bracelet that has a geometric linear dial pattern that echoes the Datejust’s iconic fluted bezel. Notably, the models with the new dials cost the same as the corresponding models with older dial designs. There’s now even more choice in the diverse Datejust line up, with something for everyone. The traditionalist’s choice: the fluted dial is a...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Unveils the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5990/1R in Rose Gold
Patek Philippe’s most coveted model line, the Nautilus was the focus of the four new launches at Watches & Wonders 2021. In addition to the ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial, the second new Nautilus for men is the Nautilus Travel-Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1R-001, a rich combination of a rose gold case with a deep blue dial. An ultra-luxe travel watch (that’s still a bit more affordable than the recent Greubel Forsey GMT Sport), the ref. 5990 has been one of the most complicated models in the Nautilus line since its introduction in 2014. First launched in stainless steel with a black dial, the ref. 5990 was an instant hit due to its good looks and practicality – and the fact that it’s a Nautilus. Initial thoughts In rose gold case with a blue dial, rendered in a shade of blue similar to that of the original ref. 5711/1A, the new ref. 5990/1R-001 is a good-looking timepiece that no doubt looks and feels like a luxury-sports watch, albeit more luxury than sports. If the steel ref. 5990/1A wasn’t not luxe enough, this ought to do the trick. Leaving aside the fact that it’s a Nautilus, hence an ultra fashionable watch that’s near impossible to get, the ref. 5990 is appealing in its intrinsic qualities, regardless of material. Despite the complications, the ref. 5990 is actually svelte, just 12.53 mm high, making it one of the slimmer flyback chronographs on the market – and it also incorporates a second time zone function. Add to that the fine finishing of...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A in Olive
Perhaps the world’s most desirable wristwatch, the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A became even more sought after when was made known earlier this year that the model would be discontinued. To give it a proper send-off, the brand is now unveiling the final iteration of the Nautilus in steel, this time with an olive green dial. The base model, if it can be called that, is the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014, but the model will also be available with a diamond-set bezel as the Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001, which is notable for being the first time Patek Philippe is setting diamonds on a steel men’s watch. The Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014 And the Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001 Initial thoughts Green seems to be the new blue, and Patek Philippe is very much on board the bandwagon with its new Nautilus ref. 5711/1A – though it’s arguable Patek Philippe is helping start the trend just because the Nautilus is, well, the Nautilus. Already impossible to get, at least at the affordable retail price, the steel Nautilus will definitely be the rarest in green, out of all three variants (the others being the original blue dial, and the later white dial) and thus the most covetable. In essence, the new Nautilus is just a facelift. The case, movement, and bracelet remain the same – the only change is the olive green dial, which retains the signature, horizontal-stamped pattern. But given the impending discontinuation of the ref. 5711/1A, the mere fact there’s a new model has sent everyone into ...
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Explorer II Ref. 226570
Twenty-twenty one sees Rolex revamp both its Explorer references, just in time for the 50th anniversary of the model. The new Explorer II ref. 226570 gets a new movement, while preserving the familiar style of previous model, the ref. 216570 that was launched exactly a decade ago. That means a second time zone hand in orange; fixed, brushed steel bezel; a largish, 42 mm case; and a white or black dial. While the new Explorer II is similar to its predecessor in terms of aesthetics – though the case is slimmed slightly and bracelet widened – it is powered by the cal. 3285, one of the latest-generation Rolex movement. Initial thoughts The new Explorer II is a major technical update thanks to the new movement, but in terms of look and feel, it is likely indistinguishable from its predecessor. Anyone who was a fan of the preceding model – this is a superior version of the same because the new movement is substantially better. But for those who thought the 42 mm case was too wide, it’s still 42 mm, albeit with redesigned lugs to make it slightly narrower. I find the 42 mm case a bit too big, but the version with the “polar” white dial has long been a favourite, and the new movement makes it more appealing, notwithstanding the case. For what it costs at retail the Explorer II is an excellent buy – as most Rolex watches are – though it’ll probably be tough to land one for now. Nips and tucks The Explorer II has a 42 mm case made of Oystersteel, which Rolex’s o...
SJX Watches
First Impressions: Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
Launched alongside the affordable Tank Must in steel at Watches & Wonders 2021, the Tank Louis Cartier is a limited-production that’s the flagship model of the new Tank offerings. Featuring an Art Deco “sector” dial modelled on a style found on the Les Must de Cartier Tank of the 1980s, the Tank Louis Cartier (or Tank LC) combines an 18k gold case with the in-house, hand-wind 1917 MC movement. Initial thoughts The Tank LC is the perhaps quintessential Tank, and the new version is one of the most compelling in recent years, both in design and the fact that it’s mechanical (most have been quartz). The new model is practically identical in size to what was historically the “large” Tank LC. That means a case that’s 33.7 mm by 25.5 mm, and 6.60 mm high. It’s relatively small by modern standards, but the size works well as a formal-dress watch under a cuff, though it would look out of place with casual wear. In fact, it excels as a formal watch that is a little more interesting, thanks to the dial design and colours. The Art Deco dial is simple but striking, and appealing in both design and colour. The only shortcoming is a historical one – it was originally found on the inexpensive Les Must de Cartier Tank, while this is clearly a high-end timepiece. At US$13,100, the new Tank LC is relatively affordable as such things go, which makes it a strong contender for a formal watch that’s a bit more lively. Classic Tank The new Tank LC is offered in two guises ...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (sans Tourbillon)
A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 2014. Still the most complicated Lange 1 in the line up, the watch combined an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a discreet tourbillon only visible on the back side. Fast forward seven years later, Lange finally unveils a simplified version – but still a complicated watch – the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, now without the tourbillon. Two variants are available: in pink gold with a grey dial, or in white gold with a solid pink gold dial. Initial thoughts At a glance, one can be forgiven for thinking this is another version of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon. It is, however, a completely new model that distills the design to focus on a fascinating perpetual calendar, without the added complexity and cost of a tourbillon. In typical Lange style, there were no shortcuts taken: the watch is powered by a new(ish) movement, rather than the same calibre minus the tourbillon. The removal of the tourbillon makes it more accessible, but the new watch is still a hefty €98,000 with the grey dial (and a bit more for the pink gold). At the same time, it might dilute the status of the pricier, flagship tourbillon variant. Nevertheless, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is intrinsically an exemplary perpetual calendar – in both construction and design – especially the pink gold dial (or “salmon”) being a trendy colour that would likely be the more popular choice. An upgraded moonphase ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Four new Patek Philippe Nautilus references including two with green dials
The watch world collectively held its breath when rumours started circulating about the possible demise of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, arguably the hottest watch on the planet right now. Rumours turned to facts when Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern confirmed that the fabled luxury sports watch would indeed be discontinued, but it put no … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Four new Patek Philippe Nautilus references including two with green dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star”
A four-person workshop in Moscow, HoD Russia specialises custom watches at affordable prices. Because the team is made up of a sculptor, engraver, and two engineers, HoD’s offerings are diverse in style, with a focus the dial. Cofounder Vasiliy Avitisov describes the brand as specialising in “dials with high relief [made] from a variety of materials”. Amongst its recent project is the “Guiding Star”, commissioned by a watch collector based in Japan. Initial thoughts Conceived alongside the client, the Guiding Star is a good example of what HoD can do. The dial is minimalist in function, yet decorated and visually striking – and it is made in house, from raw material to finished product. The dial is made of an epoxy resin mixed and coloured in HoD’s workshop, and then machined into the dial disc. The purple contrasts against the hobnail guilloche sub-dial, while the client’s initials form the 12 o’clock market, a reminder that the Guiding Star is a custom watch. One of the joys of going full custom, so to speak, is being able to dictate even the smallest of details, such as the buckle. It’s been hand-engraved with the client’s initials flanked by a Japanese wave motif, or seigaiha. The personalised pin buckle With comparable watches starting from US$2,800, the Guiding Star illustrates the brand’s value proposition – time-0nly watches with a high degree of customisation. The affordability means that while the customisation can be elaborate, the ...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots.
I’ve had quite a few microbrands in my personal watchbox. In fact, my first new mechanical watch after a waning vintage obsession was a microbrand. Due to the smaller nature of these businesses, one of the main attractions of buying these watches is the possibility of interacting with the brand owner during the retail process … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The DOXA Sub 300 Carbon range delivers 6 eye-popping dials in future-proof carbon fibre
The DOXA Sub 300 is a strong diver’s watch with vintage leanings. But the Sub 300 Aqualung US Divers Limited Edition in carbon fibre offers a completely different proposition. Essentially, it refashions the piece with a modern edge – the sharp and moody presence of the industrial carbon fibre turning up the emphasis on the … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The DOXA Sub 300 Carbon range delivers 6 eye-popping dials in future-proof carbon fibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection
Almost a year to the day since Dave made headlines at the annual Brit Awards for his heartfelt performance of hit single Black, Britain’s hottest rapper has got the watch world excited about his wristwear once again. At the Brits, he was wearing head to toe Louis Vuitton by Virgil Abloh with a rose-gold Audemars … ContinuedThe post UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Introducing The New Sinn U1 DS – To Celebrate 60 Years, Sinn Does The Unthinkable
How do you celebrate 60 years? By scratching the piss out of a steel dial, encasing it in a near indestructible case, and selling it to the public. Obviously.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Unveils an Affordable ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel Time-Only
Best known recently for its collaborations with independent watchmakers – the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter sold out in a matter of hours – Louis Erard has been gaining recognition for making the style of high-end watchmaking affordable. Continuing with that focus, the brand has just announced the Excellence Email Grand Feu, a time-only wristwatch with a traditional enamel dial in a striking ivory hue. The grand feu, or fired-in-an-oven, enamel dial is fairly difficult to manufacture, resulting in a rejection rate that’s often over half. As a result, such dials are usually only found in high-end watches. It’s Louis Erard’s first use of a fired enamel dial, but true to form, the brand has retained its usual pricing positioning with a retail price of under 4,000 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts Given the frequent enthusiast gripe that watch prices (or values) border on the absurd, it would seem that true value propositions are hard to come by. There are a few exceptions – Tudor, Longines, and a few independents for instance – with Louis Erard increasingly being one of them. The brand offers an honest product, often with one or two elements historically found only in haute horlogerie, for not so much money. The Excellence Email Grand Feu is exactly that. And the dial is particularly appealing in ivory, instead of the usual bright white that is the favoured colour for fired enamel. Notably, the dial is made by Donzé Cadrans, the well-known enamel dial maker ...
Quill & Pad
Radium Watch Dials And Radium Girls: Who Would Have Thought ‘Eating’ Radioactive Material Was Deadly?
One of the last of the so-called Radium Girls passed away at the age of 107 in late 2014. These were women working in factories tasked with painting the numerals and other markings on watch dials with a luminous paint comprising glue, water, and radium powder. Little did they know the consequences this job would have.
Revolution
Introducing the New Longines DolceVita with Elegant Art Deco Sector Dials
Longines presents new additions to the DolceVita collection with elegant Art Deco sector dials that are sure to get the purists’ hearts racing.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces New Versions of the Twenty-4
Patek Philippe is starting the year on a simple note, with its first releases for 2021 being a trio of additions to the Twenty-4 collection for ladies. One is the Twenty-4 Quartz in rose gold with a brown dial, a variant of the recently introduced Twenty-4 “Manchette”, while the other two are mechanical: new references of the Twenty-4 Automatic with green or gold dials. The green dial of the new Twenty-4 Automatic in steel Initial thoughts With all the hype surrounding the now-discontinued Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, it can be easy to forget that Patek Philippe actually makes a broad range of watches, including a collection for ladies that has now been in the catalogue for over 20 years (though the automatic version only came along in 2018). The new Twenty-4 models are variants of the same, but the automatic Twenty-4 with a green dial is unusual and an appealing alternative to the bestselling and faddish blue dial. While the styling might be uninspiring for a watch enthusiast, the Twenty-4 is ideal for someone who wants a Patek Philippe that’s fuss free, explaining the consistent commercial success of the Twenty-4 over the decades. The Twenty-4 Quartz The Twenty-4 Automatic Both versions of the Twenty-4 are pricey, sitting at the top end of their respective segments. The new Twenty-4 Automatic in steel retails for US$27,796, about the same as the Nautilus ref. 7118/1A for ladies, or the recently-launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34 mm. The Twenty-4 has the advantage o...
Deployant
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 – we take a good look at this latest release
The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is a faithful reproduction of one of the original three stainless steel El Primero models from 1969, which featured Zenith's first gradient dial in a smoked brown tone and pronounced vignette effect that darkens towards the edges.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Heritage Hi-Beat “White Birch” SLGH005
Originally as 60th anniversary limited editions in gold and then steel, the Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat now joins the catalogue as a regular-production model – the Heritage Hi-Beat “White Birch” SLGH005. Notably, despite being a standard model, the SLGH005 has a fancy, patterned dial. As is typical of Grand Seiko, the dial is inspired by the local landscape – the striated motif on the dial takes inspiration from the forest of white birch, or shirakaba (白樺), that grows around the brand’s recently-opened workshop in Shizukuishi, located in the northernmost province of Iwate. Initial thoughts The SLGH005 is a handsome watch with a clean design that’s livened by the dial pattern. I’ve yet to see this in the metal, but Grand Seiko’s stamped dial patterns are usually attractive and always well done, and I expect this to be the same. In fact, this is arguably more appealing than the earlier limited-edition version, even though the watch is essentially identical. The monochromatic colour – save for the blued steel seconds hand – has a light, clean look, which is helped by the reduced text on the dial; the designers did away with “automatic” at six o’clock. Priced at US$9,100, the SLGH005 is fairly priced, costing a little less than the launch limited edition. It is, however, an example of the steadily rising price of the average Grand Seiko. They remain, by and large, reasonable buys, but no longer the strong value propositions in the past. Wood g...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 reinforces the brand’s bid to become the king of dials
Grand Seiko never disappoints with their novelties. Some creations may not be for your taste or budget, but it is very rare (if ever) you fail to appreciate the supreme value in their timepieces. Gorgeous Zaratsu finishes, colourful and nature-inspired dials, tasty textures throughout – the brand’s grammar of design is a winning formula for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 reinforces the brand’s bid to become the king of dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Two Dials Means Double The Pleasure (Plus Video)
There’s a new double-faced superstar in town: the De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon. Co-founder and chief watchmaker Denis Flageollet wanted to create a watch with two distinct identities, incorporating two sets of brand “DNA” on the same watch. He also wanted to use the brand’s signature, patented floating lugs to their fullest extent. Elizabeth Doerr thinks Flageollet succeeded in his goals and explains why here.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 has one of the best green dials in the industry
Grand Seiko gets a lot of attention from collectors that’s well-deserved for the incredible artistry it delivers. If the Swiss were even capable of paralleling this Japanese craft and philosophy, the resulting products would likely be far more expensive. Grand Seiko continually brings high craftsmanship and value to the table, the brand name truly built … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 has one of the best green dials in the industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
De Bethune presents their latest watch, one movement with 2 dials and 2 identities – the new Kind-of-Two Tourbillon
De Bethune introduces a new DB29 with two faces, and a flip case - their Kind of Two Tourbillon - two dials, two identities, one movement.
Time+Tide
Our sexiest watch shots of 2020 plus five tips to take better watch pics yourself
OK, honesty time: I’m a self-confessed dial obsessive. Don’t get me wrong, the hypnotic ballet of a tourbillon still tugs my heartstrings so much it hurts. But have that poking out of a masterful dial and I’m ready to sell my BMW. The dial is the face, the first impression and, for me, the absolute … ContinuedThe post Our sexiest watch shots of 2020 plus five tips to take better watch pics yourself appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New and reviewed: AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, now in black ceramic
The Royal Oak Double Balance wheel Openworked was first revealed in 2016 with the stainless steel model. It quickly became an icon within the Royal Oak collection, for its unique skeleton dial, superb finishing and clever technical achievement.
Revolution
Grand Seiko U.S. Celebrates Double Anniversaries with Limited Edition SBGE263
Grand Seiko introduces a new limited edition watch with a Stainless Steel case and a deep brown dial to celebrate brand’s 60th anniversary, and ten years in the U.S. market. The watch symbolizes Japanese spirituality and love of nature, while also being distinctly American. Limited to 110 pieces.