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Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster It was only Jun 10, 2021

Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster

It was only a couple of weeks ago that we spotted a rare Rolex Submariner on Antiques Roadshow, the valuation of which left its owner with tears in his eyes. The team at Antiques Roadshow have now served up another horological treat, with a gentleman bringing in his Omega Speedmaster for the experts to study … ContinuedThe post Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TRADING FACES: Why I swapped a birth year Rolex Explorer and Ming 27.01 for my grail watch… Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer May 29, 2021

TRADING FACES: Why I swapped a birth year Rolex Explorer and Ming 27.01 for my grail watch…

Early on when I joined the Time+Tide team, I wrote a story that detailed how I got my Rolex Submariner. As both a watch collector and journalist, I felt the subject would resonate and, as that became my most read story ever, it would seem I was right. Just to recap: as a 27-year-old, I … ContinuedThe post TRADING FACES: Why I swapped a birth year Rolex Explorer and Ming 27.01 for my grail watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: The Rolex Chronergy System SJX Watches
Rolex Chronergy System Rolex launched May 14, 2021

In-Depth: The Rolex Chronergy System

Rolex launched Chronergy – essentially a mechanical ecosystem for optimal mechanical performance – with the cal. 3255 in the top-of-the-line Day-Date 40 that made its debut in 2015. Six years on, Rolex has upgraded practically its entire line up with latest-generation, Chronergy-equipped cal. 32XX family, including its most affordable offerings. Chronergy movements are found in the Datejust (cal. 3235) and Oyster Perpetual (cal. 3230), and also the entry-level sports watches, like last year’s Submariner ref. 124060 (cal. 3230). Chronergy is made up of 14 patents covering every aspect of a movement from power source to regulator, but a fundamental element is its escapement. And the Chronergy escapement actually continues a long-forgotten journey that began some fifty years ago on the other side of the world. Still sound at 300 years old Invented in the mid 1750s by Thomas Mudge (1715-1794), the lever escapement was arguably the necessary iteration of the deadbeat escapement once it was miniaturised for a watch. Having been conceived by George Graham (1673-1751) as a refinement of the anchor escapement in pendulum clocks, the deadbeat escapement was unsuited to the delicacy of watch proportions. In the lever escapement, impulse is provided to the balance via a lever, which is in turn propelled by the force of the escape wheel teeth contacting the pallet jewels of the lever. And the lever escapement is a detached escapement, meaning the escape wheel locks free of ...

Rolex Doing Its Part to Battle Climate Change SJX Watches
Rolex Doing Apr 24, 2021

Rolex Doing Its Part to Battle Climate Change

Two decades after its founding in 1905, Rolex began equipping sportspeople and explorers with waterproof Oyster watches, making possible precision timekeeping under adverse conditions. And it continued as the peace and prosperity of the postwar era in the 1950s encouraged exploration of the heights and depths of the Earth, driving adventurers through snow and water into the pages of history. This era also gave birth to watches like the Explorer, Submariner, and GMT-Master – all watches for professionals who were charting the planet. Today much of the planet has been explored, and it’s no longer a race to the deepest ocean or the tallest mountain, but instead a quest to preserve the planet. Having long been a supporter of exploration, Rolex now backs modern-day explorers who seek to battle climate change. The watchmaker funds scientific expeditions focused on conservation, such as measuring the volume of ice at the North Pole in order to gauge global warming. Since 2019, the ongoing conservation programmes that Rolex supports have been formally come under the Perpetual Planet initiative, the watchmaker’s endeavour to pave the way for a sustainable future. Early explorers Before exploring Rolex’s support for conservation programme, it’s worth revisiting its early participation in exploration. Amongst the most notable was the British Everest Expedition, the 1953 attempt to scale Mount Everest led by Sir John Hunt, a colonel in the British Army. It was a competitiv...

Qatar Watch Club Teams Up with Hermès for Special Edition Arceau SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak X It latest Apr 22, 2021

Qatar Watch Club Teams Up with Hermès for Special Edition Arceau

Since its founding three years ago, Qatar Watch Club (QWC) has collaborated with several watchmakers on special editions that paid tribute to its home country. The first was a Chopard L.U.C GMT with a burgundy dial – the primary colour of Qatar’s national flag – then a Tudor Pelagos featuring the country name in Arabic script, and most recently a Ulysse Nardin Freak X. It latest project is a tie-up with Hermès that resulted in special edition of the Arceau. Limited to 40 pieces, the Hermès Arceau Qatar Watch Club features an ebene, or “ebony”, dial that reflects the shared equestrian history of both the Parisian saddle maker and the Gulf state. Initial thoughts The watch is very much Hermès in nature and execution. Though distinctive, it is discreet. One of Hermès’ most distinctive models, the Arceau was first conceived in 1978, with its asymmetrical case inspired by a stirrup. The italicised Breguet numerals are stylish, giving the watch subtle flair. Equally subtle is the herringbone-textured dial that brings to mind Hermès fabric. The ebene dial colour is noteworthy. Rich in tone when executed right, brown is relatively uncommon in today’s watches, especially when green and blue seem to be the colours du jour. Long a colour associated with horse riding – Hermès saddles and riding boots can often be found in ebene – it is also a popular shade for the brand’s iconic Birkin bags. Coupled with orange accents – the five-minute markers and the...

Five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Patek Philippe but some Apr 13, 2021

Five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders

With 40 brands presenting at Watches & Wonders, there are a lot of novelties to like – and many you may have missed. It was no secret most consumers were heavily awaiting releases from Rolex, Tudor, and Patek Philippe, but some of the most interesting watches came from brands you may not be as familiar … ContinuedThe post Five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad Mar 16, 2021

Introducing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad

Blancpain’s iconic dive watch introduced in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms was named after the maximum depth then considered to be safe for divers, about 91 m. The Fifty Fathoms also claims the title of being the first purpose-built dive watch, though Rolex contends that its Submariner came first. Produced in a great many iterations, the Fifty Fathoms has become highly collectible in good number of variations, including those bearing the “No Radiations” logo – used in the early 1960s to indicate that radioactive radium was no longer used for the luminescence of the dial. That watch has now been revived by Blancpain as the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad, a limited edition that channels the spirit of the 1960s original, but executed in modern-day Blancpain quality. An example of the vintage Fifty Fathoms “No Radiations” Initial thoughts A staple of Blancpain’s line up, the Fifty Fathoms has been revived in various guises over the last few years, with the latest “No Rad” being the latest of several vintage remakes. The abundance of Fifty Fathoms limited editions – all similar but slightly different – have diminished its uniqueness somewhat, but the “No Rad” is nonetheless compelling. For one, the design has some provenance: the vintage “No Radiations” is a rare watch that’s exploded in value on the secondary market. And the “No Radiations” dial is quaint and quirky, but also historically significant in the transition from radium to tritium, c...

This is why smart collectors are hunting the rare Chanel J12 3125 (ref. H2918) Time+Tide
Breitling Mar 10, 2021

This is why smart collectors are hunting the rare Chanel J12 3125 (ref. H2918)

The Chanel J12 has recently been overhauled by the brand to leverage a more unisex 38mm case size. In addition, its movement is now produced by Kenissi, the joint venture between Tudor, Breitling and Chanel – the latter owning a 20% stake in the movement manufacture. The movement inside the standard J12 today is therefore … ContinuedThe post This is why smart collectors are hunting the rare Chanel J12 3125 (ref. H2918) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 is the unsung hero in the Professional series Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer II Ref 216570 Mar 1, 2021

VIDEO: The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 is the unsung hero in the Professional series

Each of the models in the Rolex Professional series is a tool watch made for a man on a mission. While the Submariner and Sea-Dweller are diving watches, the Rolex Explorer II was originally built in 1971 for speleologists or cave explorers who required a sturdy, functional and highly legible watch while working in almost … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 is the unsung hero in the Professional series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe two horological heavyweights whose Feb 12, 2021

Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021?

There’s no Baselworld this year, but in April we will have the “phygital” Watches & Wonders to look forward to. Thirty-four brands will be in attendance, among them Rolex and Patek Philippe – two horological heavyweights whose potential novelties will, as always, be eagerly awaited. Back in September we saw Rolex refresh the Submariner collection, … ContinuedThe post Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was Jan 21, 2021

Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep

There’s a strong argument that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the first real diver’s watch of its kind… and that’s because it was. It’s also true that the Rolex Submariner, which was also released in 1953, but after the Fathoms, did borrow some stylistic cues from the Blancpain. However, if any one watchmaker can claim … ContinuedThe post Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch Time+Tide
Blancpain gave birth Jan 14, 2021

Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch

Many, many people out there view the ubiquitous Rolex Submariner as the forefather of all amphibious timepieces. And they’re dead wrong. In fact, the first truly fit-for-purpose dive watch was made by one of the oldest Swiss watchmakers in the game – Blancpain. The story of the world’s first dive watch is an interesting one, … ContinuedThe post Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: MJJ Exclusive is where Europe’s top footballers buy their bling Time+Tide
Dec 28, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: MJJ Exclusive is where Europe’s top footballers buy their bling

When you’re a 25-year-old footballer earning upwards of £100,000 a week, a standard luxury watch can feel a little pedestrian. As Esquire UK’s Finlay Renwick writes in this illuminating story into the lifestyles of football’s elite: “For the best and boldest in Europe, your run of the mill Big Bang, Nautilus or Submariner just won’t … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: MJJ Exclusive is where Europe’s top footballers buy their bling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Explorer 39mm Review WatchAdvice
Rolex Explorer 39mm Review Rolex Nov 14, 2020

The Rolex Explorer 39mm Review

Rolex is a brand filled with iconic model lines, from the famed Submariner to the beguiling Daytona. The brand has managed to churn out generations of their core models with only the slightest misstep here and there. One of the most recent miscalculations came out of the Explorer range. A line famous for scaling Mount Everest strapped to the wrist of the courageous Sir Edmond Hillary, braving some of the harshest conditions found on Planet Earth, the Explorer proving to be a reliable companion for such a daring endeavour. So, when it came time for Rolex to modernise the piece, and growing to its current 39mm design, it was somewhat bewildering that the Swiss giant forgot to also scale up the hands of the watch.  Fear not however, never one to sit on a mistake for long, Rolex released the mark 2 spec of the newer, larger Explorer, this is the watch featured in this hands-on review. Few dials are as iconic and recognisable as the legendary Explorer 3, 6, 9 configuration. The watch being balanced, and imperfectly asymmetrical all at once, never have I looked down at the dial of the Explorer reference 214270 and thought it looked anything but ideal.  At 39mm the increase in case diameter has given the dial room to breathe, the prominent Arabic numerals so synonymous with the Explorer are allowed to stand proud, not interfered with or cramped as they may feel on a lesser case size. There is a brilliance to how the dial is proportioned here, the blackness of the dial creates a...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Qatar Watch Club SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Nov 14, 2020

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Qatar Watch Club

Created for a group of watch enthusiasts in Gulf nation, the Freak X Qatar Watch Club is a variant of the brand’s well-priced, entry-level Freak. Conceived by Ulysse Nardin, its local retailer Ali Bin Ali, and members of the club, the new Freak X is a limited edition of just 10 watches. It’s the third timepiece made for Qatar Watch Club (QWC), following on last year’s Tudor Pelagos. Dressed almost entirely in black, the QWC edition has its hour markers in dark green, a colour historically associated with the Middle East. Initial thoughts Essentially a simpler version of the original Freak, the Freak X manages to retain a good deal of the features that made the original unique, while dialling back on the complexity to make it more affordable. A value proposition in all its iterations, the Freak X remains equally compelling as the QWC edition, although it is only available to members of QWC. The affordable Freak Highly regarded by the club’s members, the Freak X an unsurprising choice for QWC’s third collaboration. “Ulysse Nardin creations always fascinated us since the beginning,” says Jassim Al Sayed, the chairman of QWC, “We’re honoured to be able to collaborate with the brand for a very special edition of Freak X.” Clad in a restrained colour palette, Freak X QWC has a titanium case coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC), with dark green hour markers as well as a subtle green ring on the wheel that drives the time-display carrousel. The Freak...

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition Time+Tide
Montblanc Oct 2, 2020

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition

For watches released this year, blue has definitely been a trending dial colour. Tudor, Panerai, Montblanc, and more have all released blue watches this year – making it hard to stand out in its usage. H. Moser & Cie, however, is always up to the challenge and continually preserves its status as a pioneering haute … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Eight Collectors of Independent Watchmaking to Follow on Instagram SJX Watches
F.P. Journe tourbillon Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain May 25, 2020

Eight Collectors of Independent Watchmaking to Follow on Instagram

While the vast majority of watch content on Instagram is predictable and repetitive – hello Nautilus with baguette gemstone bezel and Submariner “Hulk” –  there are a couple of collectors with interesting watches who share their collections on the picture-sharing app. The most interesting for me are the independent-watchmaking enthusiasts. Most own watches that well known and regarded as landmarks in the genre – Philippe Dufour Simplicity, F.P. Journe tourbillon, Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain, and the like – but many also have watches further off the beaten track, like Keaton Myrick’s 1 in 30 or the Bexei grande sonnerie. Here are a few independent-watchmaking collectors who are worth a follow. @igwatchlover – A collector based on Southeast Asia, Igwatchlover features his own watches, as well as occasionally watches owned by his friends – who are also accomplished collectors. Amongst the watches that can be found on his account is the unique and elaborate Voutilainen Starry Night Vine, and the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie by Aaron Becsei, and the one-off, regulator-dial minute repeater by Voutilainen. And he also features a good number of notable complicated watches from the 1990s, which are overlooked today but often just as interesting as the latest creations. @horoptimist – A longtime collector who only started his Instagram account recently, Horoptimist is based in Asia but has managed to visit several independent watchmakers in their home count...

Highlights: Phillips ‘Refresh:Reload’ Online-Only Auction SJX Watches
De Bethune DB12 chronograph May 19, 2020

Highlights: Phillips ‘Refresh:Reload’ Online-Only Auction

Phillips’ first-ever online watch auction, Refresh:Reload is a cross-category affair, encompassing watches, jewellery, and contemporary art. The week-long sale includes over 50 watches, ranging from the usual suspects like Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Submariner, but also a selection of more interesting, unconventional watches, like a De Bethune DB12 chronograph with oversized date and month, and an extra-thin, skeletonised Seiko Credor. Here are a couple of highlights from the sale, which is online from now till 6 pm (GMT+8) on May 28. The entire catalogue is available here. Lot 5 – Bronze Hourglass by Daniel Arsham One of the earliest lots in the auction is a sculpture with a horological element. The Bronze Hourglass was an edition of 100 examples commissioned by watch retailer The Hour Glass to mark its 40th anniversary in 2019. It’s the work of Daniel Arsham, one of today’s hottest contemporary artists. Mr Arsham is best known for his “eroded” works, objects made to appear heavily aged. Some of his work sits the crossroads between art and luxury goods – he’s applied his unique aesthetic to Rimowa luggage, Dior bags, and also a Porsche 911. The Bronze Hourglass has an estimate of HK$35,000-45,000, or about US$4,500-6,000. Lot 92 – Seiko Credor 40th Anniversary Signo Cherry Blossoms A limited edition made to mark the 40th anniversary of Seiko’s Credor collection, the Signo Cherry Blossoms encapsulates the key specialties of mechanical watchmaking at S...

Business News: Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith Ditch Baselworld SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Chanel Chopard Apr 17, 2020

Business News: Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith Ditch Baselworld

In a widely expected move, the watch and jewellery brands owned by LVMH – Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – have just announced their pullout from Baselworld. Once the world’s largest watch fair, Baselworld suffered a mortal blow when its largest individual exhibitors, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor, announced their withdrawal a few days ago, opting instead to move to a new fair in Geneva. And surprisingly the fair issued a swift, and clearly miffed, response to the mass exodus. But the die has been cast, with the centre of gravity having shifted decisively to Geneva, making it inevitable that the French luxury conglomerate would follow suit – especially after having made known its wavering commitment to Baselworld – and now it’s official. With the LVMH announcement, Baselworld has lost all the major exhibiting brands in Messe Basel hall 1, the fair’s flagship space. The chiefs of the LVMH watch and jewellery brands at LVMH Watch Week that took place in Dubai in January 2020, a stopgap measure due to the uncertain trade show schedule. Photo – LVMH In a statement fresh off the press, the LVMH Watch Division and Bulgari explain their move with the “clearly weakened representation of the Swiss watch industry and hence inevitably lower participation… [leading us to] withdraw in order to preserve [our] image and relations with clients as well with the media.” What the four brands will do in Geneva has not yet been decided, conti...

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Apr 16, 2020

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection

Following the Navitimer 1 Airline Editions and the Aviator 8 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, Breitling has now introduced its next limited-production capsule collection, the Superocean Heritage ’57. Modelled on the brand’s first dive watch, the SuperOcean ref. 1004, the new range also includes a lively rainbow limited edition with multi-coloured hour markers. As scuba diving and other aquatic sports became popular in the early 1950s, dive watches being a thing, with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster 300 all making their debut that decade. Breitling’s entry into the dive watch stakes as the SuperOcean. While the watch is now less known than its contemporaries, the SuperOcean had a strikingly bold and unusual design despite being some six decades old. It was characterised by a wide bezel with a concave surface intended to protect the domed acrylic crystal, and a dial featuring dagger-shaped indices with additional oversized spheres at the quarters. The quirky, retro style has been reintroduced in full with the Superocean Heritage ’57. Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection The capsule collection consists of three iterations: in stainless steel with a blue or black dial, and a steel case with a rose-gold bezel paired with a black dial. All are powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 10, which is an ETA 2892-A2. Entirely polished, the case measures 42 mm wide and 9.99 mm high, making it 4 mm thinner than the standard Superocean He...

The Baselworld Saga: MCH Group Responds, and a Bit of Background SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Chanel Chopard Apr 15, 2020

The Baselworld Saga: MCH Group Responds, and a Bit of Background

Hours after the momentous but unsurprising exit from Baselworld by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor, the fair’s organiser, MCH Group, issued a strident response expressing “great surprise and equally great regret” at the brands’ departure, while noting that all the brands were privy to the discussions about “postponing” Baselworld 2020 to January next year. And MCH Group then took a swing at its former exhibitors, implying a long-planned conspiracy to depart Baselworld: “[We] must therefore conclude that the relevant plans [to leave Baselworld] have been in preparation for some time and that the discussions concerning the financial arrangements for the cancellation of Baselworld 2020 are now being put forward as an argument.” Memories of days past – the main hall of Baselworld 2019. Photo – Baselworld Unilateral decisions, and more According to insiders, however, the MCH Group statement is only half the story. Most crucial were the circumstances surrounding the negotiations for changing the date of Baselworld, once the world’s largest watch and jewellery fair, a status that likely buoyed MCH Group’s confidence to unsustainable levels. The major brands, led by exhibitors’ committee head Hubert J. du Plessix – who is also the chief of investments and logistics at Rolex – were amenable to postponing Baselworld to January 2021. Amongst the most vocal proponents for the move were the LVMH-owned brands, namely Bulgari, Hublot, TAG...