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Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary and their Signature Complication with a New Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary Feb 16, 2023

Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary and their Signature Complication with a New Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture

It’s hard to believe, but Frederique Constant celebrates their 35th anniversary this year. This is a brand that’s truly part of the old guard when it comes to the contemporary, affordable watch scene. Making the “nice Swiss watch” accessible to the masses was a big part of why the brand was founded, and over the course of their history the entire watch industry has changed multiple times over, currently finding itself in a healthy spot where more and better watches are finding their way onto the wrists of enthusiasts at a pace that couldn’t have have been imagined three decades ago. The line between “luxury” and “affordable” continues to shift, and there’s no doubt that Frederique Constant has played a role in those changes.  Specifically, Frederique Constant has broken new ground when it comes to making complicated watchmaking affordable. We all know about their excellent perpetual calendar, which they are still able to sell for a little less than $10,000 several years after its debut. But they also dabble in other historically significant and tech forward complications. Over the years we’ve seen everything from flyback chronographs to moon phases equipped watches, and of course their Slimline Monolithic with an ultra high frequency oscillator. But it could be argued that their signature complication, the one that the brand has leaned into the hardest and gained the most acclaim for, is the worldtimer. So it makes sense that for Frederique Constant...

Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years of the Fifty Fathoms with Tech Gombessa Worn & Wound
Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years Feb 16, 2023

Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years of the Fifty Fathoms with Tech Gombessa

This year marks the 70th anniversary of one of the most important dive watches ever made, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. To celebrate the occasion, Blancpain will be releasing a trio of Fifty Fathom “Acts”, the first of which was released in January featuring a new 42mm case. The second act of this anniversary year is celebrating Blancpain’s 10 year relationship with Gombessa diving expeditions, and the release of the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa watch, a modern take on the platform built with a specific purpose in mind. We got our hands on the Tech Gombessa during its launch (which was hosted by our friend Jason Heaton), and discovered a few surprising takeaways.  To fully appreciate the Tech Gombessa, an understanding of the Gombessa diving expeditions is in order. Led by highly decorated wildlife photographer and diver (and Nikon ambassador), Laurent Ballesta, the Gombessa expeditions have studied some of the most elusive marine life and phenomenon on earth. The goals of these expeditions are centered around three pillars: a scientific mystery, a diving challenge and the promise of unprecedented images. To date, there have been five such expeditions, all underwritten by Blancpain, and each producing a wealth of knowledge and stunning visuals. Ballesta was named Wildlife Photographer of the Year in 2017, 2021, and 2022 for his efforts. In order to study and capture the underwater locations and wildlife, the team utilizes closed-circuit rebreather diving techniques, a...

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is “a pure diving instrument” for the modern age Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa Feb 16, 2023

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is “a pure diving instrument” for the modern age

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa presents a world-first three-hour timing bezel The “absolute black” dial captures almost 97% of the light to make the lume pop and enhance underwater legibility The release continues the 70th birthday celebrations of the Fifty Fathoms Laurent Ballesta is the closest thing we have to a modern-day Jacques Costeau. The … ContinuedThe post The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is “a pure diving instrument” for the modern age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Méraud Antigua is a yachting watch that bobs along on a delightfully retro wave Time+Tide
Feb 16, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Méraud Antigua is a yachting watch that bobs along on a delightfully retro wave

Having previously owned two vintage watches powered by Landeron movements, I’ve always believed they were unsung heroes in the world of Swiss chronographs. One of the watches I had was a Rotary that dated all the way back to 1937, and the Landeron 47 inside it still worked perfectly and intuitively. Méraud have made my … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Méraud Antigua is a yachting watch that bobs along on a delightfully retro wave appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Autodromo Enters a New Class with the Group C Worn & Wound
Feb 15, 2023

Autodromo Enters a New Class with the Group C

Automotive inspired watches are never easy to pull off, but if there’s one brand that’s consistently done just that, it’s undoubtedly Autodromo. Their watches, from the Vallelunga to the Group B, all convey a deep knowledge and passion of the underlying inspiration in ways that aren’t always immediately apparent. Whether it’s the shape of the curvature of the case, or a specific colorway used, these watches go above and beyond what you’d expect. Today, Autodromo opens a new chapter in this story with the release of the Group C, a watch that will sit alongside the Group B, all while imparting a very different impression of the racing classes for which they are named.  Group C as a category of racing was introduced by the FIA in 1982, and would produce some of the most iconic endurance racing cars of all time before its shuttering in 1993. Certainly defining cars of their era, which included the likes of the Jaguar XJR-8, the Sauber C9, the Porsche 956, and of course, the screaming Mazda 787B. These cars all came in something of a transition period for racing cars, with a slew of new rules and regulations meant to bring the sport more inline with Formula 1 quickly ushering in the class’ demise just prior to the 1993 championship race was due to be run at Magny Cours (though the cars were allowed entry to the 1994 running of the 24 Hours of LeMans, and would take the top 4 spots overall, with the Porsche 962 car 36 taking the win). This is the deep pool from wh...

Watch Sizes vs. Wrist Sizes: What’s the Right Size for You? Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 15, 2023

Watch Sizes vs. Wrist Sizes: What’s the Right Size for You?

One of the most important factors one considers when choosing a new watch is the watch's size - as in, its appropriateness relative to the size of one's own wrist as well as the general statement that it's making on said wrist. Trying watches on before buying them is, of course, the easiest and most sensible way to determine these factors, but when you're buying watches online, like so many of us are these days, the eyeballing and hands-on experience must give way to some carefully conducted research instead. Here we pose and answer (to the best of our knowledge and experience) some of the questions a prospective online watch purchaser is likely to have regarding watch sizes and wrist sizes.  What watch size is right for my wrist? While there are obviously some practical calculations that you can make, it all comes down to comfort and personal style. Some people with very slender wrists like to rock a big, attention-grabbing timepiece, and occasionally a linebacker type with thicker forearms might prefer to keep it more subtle with a smaller watch that hides under a sleeve. Acknowledging that these tend to be the outliers, however, most watch wearers will want some aesthetic harmony between their watch size and wrist size, which means that you’ll want to get an accurate idea of both actual measurements. This is particularly important if you’re buying a watch online without actually physically trying it on. You can measure your wrist size easily by wrapping a ...

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Feb 15, 2023

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours

Louis Vuitton (LV) marked the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical watch last year (with an El Primero-powered chronograph). The brand has rapidly evolved its horological offerings over the two decades, going from largely basic, monogrammed watches to ambitious complications like the gothic Carpe Diem Minute Repeater with automaton.  A more whimsical example of LV’s progress in complications is the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours, a quirky interpretation of the jump hour complication that’s presented in a redesigned, svelte version of its signature drum-shaped case. Initial thoughts At the distance, the Vivienne Jump Hours looks like a run-of-the-mill character watch that’s slightly fancier than average. But upon closer inspection, it reveals a novel complication and an impressive degree of detail in the execution of the dial. The jump hour is mechanically conventional but presents as a double jumping indicator thanks to clever design. Its whimsical and unusual presentation typifies the spirit of LV. In fact, the complication is different enough that we hope it will make its way into more watches, especially timepieces for men. Given that the titular Vivienne character has a male counterpart named Gaston, it would make sense for the complication to make its way into a watch in a larger size.  The Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours “Casino” with a green skarn dial And I really dig the dials of the Vivienne Jump Hours, especially the dial in skarn, a re...

Brellum Throws Their Hat into the GMT Ring with the Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer Worn & Wound
Feb 14, 2023

Brellum Throws Their Hat into the GMT Ring with the Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer

Brellum is an up and coming independent brand that prides itself on its rich familial history in watchmaking. Founder Sebastian Muller can trace his family lineage of watchmakers all the way back to his great grandfather who set up his very own shop in 1910. The rest, as they say, is history. Brellum exists today with the intention of continuing the Mueller legacy by producing highly-crafted timepieces that, not only present with a thoughtful design for the modern day wearer, but to pay homage to their family’s passion for traditional Swiss watchmaking. Their surname is an anagram in the brand’s namesake afterall. Recently, the brand announced a very limited run of a handsome pilot’s chronograph equipped with a GMT function with the Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer. The dial is where the Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer shows a whole lot of flash without straying too far away from the traditional pilot’s watch aesthetic. And by flash, I mean that opalin silver-now dial. From the images, it seems that this dial has its own character all on its own, displaying a luster against radiant lighting, and then a more toned down matted white in neutral lighting. All of the dial markings use black as the main color for unmistakable legibility including the minute track, 24 hour display bordering the outer portion of the dial, and applied numeral hour markers. The subdials take up dial real-estate at six, twelve and nine with a date window sneaking into the six o’clock s...

Fratello and Aquastar Team Up for a Very Limited Version of the Deepstar II with an Ice Blue Dial Worn & Wound
Tudor Feb 14, 2023

Fratello and Aquastar Team Up for a Very Limited Version of the Deepstar II with an Ice Blue Dial

The Aquastar Deepstar II is the latest watch to get the limited edition treatment from our friends over at Fratello, and it might be the nicest looking iteration yet on the unapologetically vintage inspired diver. We first told you about the Deepstar II back in late 2021, when the watch made its debut in the afterglow of the cult favorite Deepstar Chronograph. These watches have an abundance of charm thanks to a well thought out asymmetry, excellent use of key vintage cues, and a size that is literally just about perfect for a watch of this style. As we pointed when the Deepstar II first came to our attention, dial color plays an outsize role in how the watch lands, and that holds true with the new Fratello version, which is very much the Deepstar we’ve come to know, but with nicely curated touches that give it a fresh life.  The word of the day when describing the Deepstar II is, without a doubt, “compact.” If you’re accustomed to big, bruising modern divers from Seiko, Tudor, and the like, strapping Deepstar II to your wrist will feel somewhat alien at first. The case measures 36.7mm wide and just 46mm lug to lug, but it’s 13mm thick, which makes these watches wear squat on the wrist with a presence you wouldn’t expect from the listed dimensions. Aquastar has always framed the Deepstar II as a thought experiment of sorts, imagining the type of diver the brand would have followed up the Deepstar Chronograph with back in the late 60s (unlike the chrono, this d...

New dials and dimensions for the King Seiko 110th Anniversary Time+Tide
Seiko 110th Anniversary Though Feb 14, 2023

New dials and dimensions for the King Seiko 110th Anniversary

Though the story of Seiko began almost 150 years ago, the first wristwatch wouldn’t come until three decades later, in 1913 with the Seiko Laurel. The brand recently paid homage to that exact piece with a modern re-issue, but the celebrations didn’t stop there. Despite the fact that King Seiko is no longer the brand … ContinuedThe post New dials and dimensions for the King Seiko 110th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A New Collection of King Seikos Make their Debut Just in Time for a Big Seiko Anniversary Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Feb 13, 2023

A New Collection of King Seikos Make their Debut Just in Time for a Big Seiko Anniversary

We’ve already seen a flurry of activity from Seiko and Grand Seiko in 2023 to celebrate the 110th anniversary of the first wristwatch to bear the Seiko name. In what might be the most exciting anniversary release of this young year, Seiko has added a quartet of new watches to their recently relaunched King Seiko line. King Seiko began to reemerge back in 2020 as part of the brand’s big 140th anniversary celebration with a recreation of the historic KSK, featuring many of the premium touches we normally associate with higher tier Seiko and Grand Seiko releases. A collection of new, vintage inspired designs appeared last year, and that basically brings us to today. You’d be forgiven for forgetting about the new King Seikos given the comparatively infrequent releases, but they’re the type of watches that always get collectors excited for their attention to small, historical details and overall bang for buck. The new batch of King Seikos is without a doubt the most compelling collection yet, and will hopefully serve as a building block for more regular releases in the future.  We’ll start with the SPB365, which keeps the same 37mm case as last year’s releases, but adds a special dial design featuring a hexagon motif. This design, known as the “Kikkoumon,” is meant to symbolize a tortoise shell, an animal that represents longevity in Japanese culture. The symbol is frequently used in samurai armor, as well. It’s also a subtle nod to the origins of King Seiko,...

INTRODUCING: IWC give their Portugieser Automatic 40 a salmon makeover Time+Tide
IWC give their Portugieser Automatic Feb 13, 2023

INTRODUCING: IWC give their Portugieser Automatic 40 a salmon makeover

IWC introduces a sunburst salmon dial to Portugieser 40 collection Salmon-coloured dials are a fan-favourite amongst watch enthusiasts It will first be available exclusively in the UAE as of February and then available worldwide as of April SALMON! The dial colour strikes a particular chord with watch enthusiasts, perhaps most largely attributed to the fact it offers … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: IWC give their Portugieser Automatic 40 a salmon makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick Time+Tide
Fears Feb 13, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick

Some extinct brands that get revived for the modern mechanical boom are often raised in mystery, bought out by private companies who heap glory on their adopted heritage to distract from the lack of modern substance. Fears is the direct opposite of that, not only being reincarnated by a member of the original family but … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2023

Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime

It’s probably a sign of just how much some people care about their watches, but timepieces have long been attributed human characteristics. I’ve often heard the movement of a watch described as its “beating heart”, while it’s also routine to talk about a watch’s “face” or “hands”.  Perhaps this is a natural development given that … ContinuedThe post Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Citizen Seiko Feb 12, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph

Welcome to episode 36 of A Week in Watches! We tackle a packed week of news from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Citizen, Seiko, and the return of Meraud with an incredibly charming chronograph called the Antigua. Audemars Piguet dropped plenty of new watches on the world this week, including their most complicated watch ever, the RD4 in the Code 11:59 body. Read more of our thoughts on the new AP releases right here. Seiko revealed a new movement in a trio of new King Seiko references, as well as a special 110th Anniversary King Seiko with a beautiful geometric brown dial. Finally, we discuss a sophomore release from the brand Meraud, who impressed us with their Antigua, a colorful hand wound chronograph with a rather unexpected movement. You can read more of our thoughts on this watch in this hands-on review. Catch all this and more in the full episode below, and be sure to subscribe for more great watch content. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.

New: Zenith “Ultra Colour” Box Set Of 8 Defy 21 Models Deployant
Zenith Ultra Colour” Box Set Feb 12, 2023

New: Zenith “Ultra Colour” Box Set Of 8 Defy 21 Models

The DEFY 21 has seen multiple colorful iterations since its inception. This latest launch is a set of 8 colors limited to 8 sets. Armed with the 1/100th chronograph movement, the DEFY 21 is a good-looking modern chronograph with an equally impressive complication. While for the more frugal, one watch with multiple straps may be more affordable, the well-heeled DEFY fans may find this box set intriguing.

Delugs introduces their new CTS rubber strap line-up Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2023

Delugs introduces their new CTS rubber strap line-up

The brand follows the success of their PRX straps with a new Delugs CTS Rubber Strap line Ensuring minimal bulk, the straps are cut to size for a custom fit Leaf spring butterfly clasps eliminate the need for buttons and complex mechanisms Delugs have an excellent track record when it comes to various executions of … ContinuedThe post Delugs introduces their new CTS rubber strap line-up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Solargraph may just be the perfect luxury adventure watch Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Solargraph may just be Feb 9, 2023

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Solargraph may just be the perfect luxury adventure watch

While some are finally shaking the sentiment off, it is no secret that watch snobs love to dismiss and knock quartz watches. And, I get it. The quartz crisis nearly rendered the mechanical timepieces we all love extinct. So it is easy to understand why horology lovers are so protective of mechanical watchmaking. That being … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Solargraph may just be the perfect luxury adventure watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Feb 9, 2023

Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Having redesigned the Polo to suit contemporary tastes in 2016, Piaget now debuts most complicated watch in its sports watch line, the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. With a steel case just 8.65 mm high, it’s dressed in the very current shade of dark green. Though the complication isn’t new for Piaget or even luxury-sports watches more broadly, the perpetual calendar takes the Polo into new territory as an upscale, complicated watch. The model was introduced in 1979 as a chunky watch with a geometric design rendered entirely in yellow gold, reflecting the popular style of the era. Today’s Polo bears little resemblance to its historical namesake and instead opts for a design in tune with today’s preference for sports watches in that aren’t round. Initial thoughts The new perpetual calendar is essentially the same proposition as its simpler brethren in the Polo line – a design and complication similar to more established luxury-sports watches, but at a more affordable price. So it has a patterned dial, cushion-shaped case, matching steel bracelet, and a retail price of US$58,500. That’s a reasonable ask considering its intrinsic features like finishing and complication.  On the other hand, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5740/1G or recently launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 26586TI cost well into the six figures – but they are also more sophisticated mechanically and executed with much more refinement. In short,...

The Best Rolex Watches for Collectors and the Stories Behind Them Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Feb 8, 2023

The Best Rolex Watches for Collectors and the Stories Behind Them

Rolex watches are indisputably some of the most popular and coveted timepieces on the planet, and every watch enthusiast has their own ideas about (and often their own criteria for) what the best Rolex watches are. But how much do you really know about how your favorite Rolex model came about, why exactly it's so special and distinct from all the rest, and in some cases why it is historically significant to the watch industry as a whole? In this feature, we take a tour through nine of the most important and/or interesting Rolex watches, from their original conception to their place in the modern horological canon.  Origins of an Icon The most famous Swiss watch brand in the world was originally not even Swiss: it was founded by a German in the United Kingdom. Hans Wilsdorf (1861-1960), an orphan raised by his uncles in Kulmbach, Germany, learned entrepreneurship and self-sufficiency early in life, and began his career in the Swiss watch industry in 1900 when he started as a clerk at the watchmaking firm of Cuno Korten in La Chaux-de-Fonds, responsible for the maintenance and accuracy of hundreds of pocket watches per day. In 1905, two years after moving to London, Wilsdorf (below) partnered with another businessman named Alfred Davis to establish Wilsdorf & Davis, the company that would become Rolex. Wilsdorf & Davis, based in London’s Hatton Garden commercial district, was founded with a mandate to make reliably precise watches at affordable prices.  In 1914, days...