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Quick Takes: Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar in blue
We take a quick look at the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar in a gorgeous new blue dial. We covered the watch in detail earlier.
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SJX Watches
Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Limited Edition
Tudor’s latest watch is major – beyond the watch itself – for it is the first publicly available limited edition in its 70-year history. In an industry where limited editions usually emphasise “edition” rather than “limited”, the Black Bay Chrono Dark is limited to just 1181 pieces at time of writing (though the number will creep up each year; more on that below). The new watch is a nod to Tudor’s partnership with the New Zealand national rugby union team, better known as the All Blacks – perhaps the most successful rugby team in history. Named for the all-black team jersey bearing a silver fern emblem, the All Blacks provide a literal inspiration for the Black Bay Chrono Dark, which has a black-coated case and bracelet. It’s essentially a cooler, limited and monochromatic version of a watch that is already an excellent value proposition. The watch is based on the Black Bay Chrono launched two years ago. Though it was slightly controversial aesthetically – the design being a mishmash of dive and driving watches – the Black Bay Chrono was well-regarded for being good value; it was powered by a sophisticated chronograph movement based on the Calibre 01 made by Breitling. Proving to be something that grew on you over time, the line-up was joined by the two-tone Black Bay Chrono S&G; unveiled at Baselworld 2019. Now the collection grows to include the Black Bay Chrono Dark, exactly 1181 examples of it to be specific. This is the numbe...
Quill & Pad
Quartz: Past, Present, But No Future? – Reprise
Nothing can stir up the watch world these days quite as much the launch of a new Apple watch. For some it's a must-have gadget, for others it just isn't a real watch. But perhaps quartz watches face more competition from smartwatches than mechanical watches. Does quartz even have a real future?
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A 1960s Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1002, An Abercrombie & Fitch Solunar, And An Omega Chronostop
Your weekly dose of vintage watch finds from around the web has arrived.
Time+Tide
Basic instinct – the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775)
Editor’s note: Panerai has been on a real Submersible kick this year, along with the lighter Due models - but it’s hard to go past the watch that started it all. And this watch, the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775), really demonstrates why, as Sandra explains … Not a Radiomir to be seen this … ContinuedThe post Basic instinct – the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Cheap vs. Expensive Calendar Watch - The Definitive Difference | Watchfinder & Co.
Time+Tide
Getting up to speed with the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition
Unveiled at Baselworld earlier this year, the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition celebrates the Swiss watch brand’s illustrious 31-year relationship with Italy’s most storied road rally. Inspired by not just the event itself, but the classic automobiles that compete in the famous rally, the 2019 Race Edition represents the passion that Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele … ContinuedThe post Getting up to speed with the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“I decided on this one after I saw Pierce Brosnan wear it” – Dimitrios’ Omega Seamaster
The move to put an Omega on James Bond’s wrist in GoldenEye stands as one of the greatest watch marketing moves in the history of watch marketing. Dimitrios was not the first, and certainly won’t be the last person to buy into the brand because of the fictional super spy. But even if it was … ContinuedThe post “I decided on this one after I saw Pierce Brosnan wear it” – Dimitrios’ Omega Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Tracing the journey of Rado’s Captain Cook
Up until a few years ago, Rado’s Captain Cook was a rather obscure watch. A stylish skin diver from the middle of last century, a time when many brands (many of whom aren’t around these days) tried their hands at the genre. Rado made Captain Cook watches from 1962 to 1972. After then, the brand … ContinuedThe post Tracing the journey of Rado’s Captain Cook appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Just Because: The Ironic Elegance Of Trench Watches
Not only did the Great War move timekeeping to the wrist – it also introduced a refined aesthetic built for battle.
Time+Tide
Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser
Editor’s note: While the Pilot might be IWC’s hero of the hour, the equally large but more classically inspired Portugieser is an equally important line. Felix finds out why … There’s a good reason the Portugieser collection is one of IWC’s most popular (in Australia at least). It’s a big, commanding watch that nevertheless possesses … ContinuedThe post Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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HERMÈS Is NOT A Fashion Watch & More LIVE Questions!
SJX Watches
Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco “The Hour Glass” – The Dark Lord Revived
The latest anniversary edition for Singapore’s largest watch retailer has just dropped: the Monaco “The Hour Glass” is derived from the Monaco Calibre 11 launched at Baselworld 2015. But it combines the style of the 1970s with a modern twist, mixing a high-contrast, all-black case paired with a beige dial and red accents. Think of it as a modern take on the desirable Monaco “Dark Lord”. Unapologetically square Designed by Jack Heuer and named after the Formula 1 race on the principality, the Monaco was powered by the one of the first automatic chronograph movements, the Chronomatic cal. 11. But its true claim to fame is Steve McQueen, who wore one in Le Mans, making the original Monaco ref. 1133B with its distinctive blue dial something of an icon. Steven McQueen in Le Mans More crucially, the Monaco was the first water-resistant square watch when it was launched on March 3, 1969. This was achieved with the use of a one-piece inner case – essentially a square capsule containing the movement and dial – secured to the outer case with a notched system that created a tension seal. It was produced by Ervin Piquerez, a case maker best known for its “Super Compressor” dive watch cases, which received a patent for its landmark, square invention. The unusual Monaco case as illustrated by a “Dark Lord” – outer case in black PVD, and inner case in brushed steel And inside the case sat the Chronomatic cal. 11, a movement that was one of three ...
Revolution
The Tudor Oyster
A truly versatile watch in endless variations – whatever you fancy, there’s a vintage Tudor Oyster for you!
Hodinkee
Business News: U.S. Smartwatch Sales Are Soaring
Apple, Fitbit, and Samsung have joined Rolex and Patek Philippe as America's five best-selling watch brands.
Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395: Reinterpretation Done Right
Breguet is one brand that does "remakes" beautifully, and the recent release of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is clear evidence. The watch is incredible while feeling entirely classic and well within the boundaries of what is considered typical for Breguet. And yet it also feels like a departure into something a bit new that makes you take another look at the brand.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches
These days we’re pretty down with the tie-in between the watch industry and motorsports. Because while the association, which had its golden days in the age of Heuer et al, was originally born from necessity, nowadays its main function has to do with the marketing department. And while many brands have history in the area, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Before You Buy Michael Kors, WATCH THIS | RANT&H;
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Zak M and his IWC Ingenieur AMG edition
While collaborations between watch brands and car manufacturers are not a new phenomenon, it’s a much rarer phenomenon to meet a person who owns both the watch and its corresponding car. Once Zak had purchased his Mercedes AMG, he knew he needed to own the IWC Ingenieur AMG edition IW3725, a watch that is cool … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Zak M and his IWC Ingenieur AMG edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Short takes: TUDOR Black Bay Chrono Steel and Gold
The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 and the launch of reference 7922. The basic design with a bezel, triple link bracelet and screw-down crown laid down the aesthetic and technical foundations of an ideal divers’ watch.
Time+Tide
David Beckham’s Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best
Editor’s note: A little while back, old mate Becks did some promo videos with his watch brand of choice – Tudor. Turns out that Mr Beckham isn’t one to baby his timepieces, something we fully endorse. Kick on, Becks. Tudor shared two short videos with their premier ambassador, Mr David Beckham, that looked at two … ContinuedThe post David Beckham’s Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style
For watch aficionados, GMT may as well mean “grand, magnificent, and timeless” for it offers the convenience of indicating two time zones on one dial. While today we can see all 36 time zones from every mobile phone, that doesn’t diminish the joy of a dual time zone timepiece. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three no-nonsense GMT watches that each represent the sophistication of second time zone indications in their very own way. Enjoy their classic travel-time designs pared down to the essential!
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd
Johnny Dowell has been on the watch world’s radar for some time (heck, we interviewed him here), having worked with Urwerk and others on some pretty spectacular production pieces, as well as numerous custom jobs. But, perhaps unsurprisingly, Johnny’s career in engraving didn’t start with watches - he went through the far more traditional route … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Cheapest Cartier Tank & The BEST Patek Philippe World Time Watch
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Commissioning a Custom Andreas Strehler Wristwatch
I am a collector of world time and time zone watches, and own several from mainstream brands. I had long had my own ideas of an ideal travel watch, and this is the tale of how one came to be. A world time watch should simultaneously show at least 24 time zones on the dial. There are principally three dial types that can do this: first is a map of the Earth with time zones marked out; second is a disc with 24 reference time zones indicated by city names; third is a 24 hour ring in conjunction with a ring of reference time zones, widely known as the Cottier world time, after Swiss watchmaker Louis Cottier who built the first wristwatch with the mechanism. Top row, from left: Lottermann & Söhne Weltzeituhr 1, Tissot Heritage Navigator, Patek Philippe ref. 5230G Bottom row: Dubey & Schaldenbrand Weltzeit, Junkers 6892-5 Serie Worldtimer, Jean-Mairet & Gillman Sport. Images – respective brands The first two variants use the entire dial to display world time, leaving no room for additional complications. The Cottier-system can as well dominate the design, with only the centre of the dial available for decorations or additional indications, making it difficult to embellish the dial with motifs relating to a specific brand. Reducing the displays can create a more interesting dial layout, but this results in microscopic indicators that are hardly readable. For this reason, I now prefer time zone watches with only one additional zone time shown on a 24-hour scale, often labelled ...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”
With one watch unveiled each month since the start of the year, the A. Lange & Söhne “25th Anniversary” series is coming to a completion. The ninth watch has just been announced – the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase. Of the 10 piece anniversary set, this is arguably the most esoteric and least known Lange 1, being an elegantly conceived complication inside a case that was originally devised as a smaller men’s watch, but is now a ladies’ watch. Measuring a compact 36.8mm in width, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was first unveiled in 2009 – seven years after the launch of the full-size, 38.5mm Lange 1 Moon Phase. Subsequently in 2017, it evolved to incorporate a new caliber based on the second-generation Lange 1 movement. Though the original Little Lange 1 was introduced as a watch for men in the late 1990s, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was a ladies’ watch from the get-go and decorated as such, with mother-of-pearl dials, diamond bezels and most recently a guilloche dial. But with the subdued anniversary colours of blue and silver, the latest Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the first instance where it could be for men wanting a smaller watch. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and printed blue markings. As with the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “25thAnniversary” unveiled earlier in the year, the white-gold lunar disc in the seconds sub-dial is hand-engraved with stars that vary in size and shape, creating a detailed depiction of the ni...
Revolution
Introducing the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”
The Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the ninth watch to join A. Lange & Söhne’s 25th anniversary editions for the Lange 1.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Astor + Banks Sea Ranger
A modern take on an everyday sport watch tuned for travel.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 (Live Pics, Pricing)
A tech-forward halo watch charts a new course for Oris.
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