Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 109: Watch Vlogger Jenni Elle
One of YouTube's biggest watch personalities talks to us about the "Rolex Game," embracing controversy, and why she loves weird watches.
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SJX Watches
Paulin Introduces the Neo
Founded in 2013 by the Paulin sisters, descendants of Scottish sculptor George Henry Paulin who is most famous for his war memorials across the United Kingdom, Paulin was conceived as a locally-designed watch brand focused on minimalist and monochromatic watches. And now the Glasgow-based brand introduces the Neo, a watch with 1970s flavour that the brand’s first to feature a colourful dial, either in blue, yellow, and white. More notably, the Neo is the result of a collaboration with fellow Scottish watchmaker Anordain, best known for its accessibly-priced enamel dials. Initial thoughts Put simply, the Neo is a solid offering with playful colours and in-house typography in an amiable, 38 mm package. It was realised in an unusual three-way collaboration between Paulin, local jeweller Helen Swan, and anOrdain (which was founded by the husband of one of the Paulin sisters). Paulin and Anordain have both been successful in creating original, affordable watches, but their respective offerings differ in style and price. Paulin has kept to simple, coloured dials for its watches, while Anordain made a name for itself with vitreous enamel dials. The Anordain Model 2 with a purple enamel dial As a result, the collaboration between the two is interesting, since it bridges two brands that are similar yet different. The Neo injects the fun and colour of anOrdain into the more affordable Paulin timepiece. The dial of the Neo is anodised aluminium, and not enamel, but entirely suitab...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue
A proven trend within the world of watches is for brands to reinterpret historic models within their archives for modern-day release. Seiko has revived and renewed one of their classic ’70s divers with the new Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. The case While slightly larger than the original, the Seiko Prospex SPB183J … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money
It seems like every week, another Kickstarter microbrand comes forward with its own take on a diving watch. Some of these are more successful than others, but the one certainty is that in order to stand out, companies have to increasingly think outside the box. AUDRIC Watches have done so with the home-run combination of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Editorial: Plato, Eratosthenes, and the Impossibility of Being Objective
I recently had a wide-ranging conversation with a fellow collector during which the following question was raised: is it possible for one watch to be objectively better than another? While pondering this question, I was reminded of Euthyphro, a Socratic dialogue written by Plato. The “TL;DR” version is this: Plato asks Euthyphro if he can provide a definition of piety. Euthyphro responds with a clear-cut example of piety, but Plato is unsatisfied. He responds that an example is not enough; he wants the underlying rules that define piety, those by which Euthyphro chose his example. So it is with watches. We can all point to examples of great watches, and to some extent we can defend these examples with some kind of justification. But it’s very difficult, if not impossible, to articulate a set of criteria that can be applied universally – a necessary precondition of truly objective comparison. But as an exercise, I think it’s worth exploring in what ways, specifically, watch collecting defies objective analysis so that we can understand the limitations of this way of thinking. Defining objectivity Objectivity is, according to the Cambridge Dictionary, “the quality of being able to make a decision or judgment in a fair way that is not influenced by personal feelings or beliefs”. Objectively, there’s not much more to a watch than its size, shape, colour, materials, and functions. A lot of the criteria collectors use to make value judgements about watches ...
Time+Tide
Design a Seiko 5 Sports online with the Custom Watch Beatmaker, get lots of votes, and see it released by Seiko
Seiko 5 Sports has just announced a global digital campaign, “CUSTOM WATCH BEATMAKER” which will run from October 19, 2020 to the end of January 2021. Having just gone through the process, this is a super fun customisation process that also has you name your bespoke watch. A track created for the campaign by an up-and-coming … ContinuedThe post Design a Seiko 5 Sports online with the Custom Watch Beatmaker, get lots of votes, and see it released by Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: My biggest 180 of 2020 is admitted in this video about the new Bulgari Bulgari Aluminium Collection…
It seems to happen about once a year. I must sheepishly admit that I was wrong about a watch. In 2019, I offered a full retraction to Girard-Perregaux regarding the Laureato, a watch that I not only came to love but purchase. In 2020, it’s apology time once again. And this time, it’s to the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: My biggest 180 of 2020 is admitted in this video about the new Bulgari Bulgari Aluminium Collection… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection
Editor’s note: There’s no doubt that the Bulgari watch department is having a very big year. So far they have gotten hearts racing with the launch of their record-breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, the new Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel, and then their remarkable High-End Watch novelties. And if that wasn’t enough, there … ContinuedThe post Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tag Heuer drops “TAG” from Name by Popular Demand
They've simply resigned themselves to the understanding that, in general, they have absolutely no idea what they're doing or how to market themselves.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Halios Fairwind Review: Setting a New Standard
The Fairwind makes a statement - even when almost everything that can go wrong does go wrong, a commitment to good design and quality, a little chutzpah, and a lot of patients can still create something truly special.
Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton (Video)
The Watches TV visited Vacheron Constantin’s Geneva boutique to talk with the brand’s style and heritage director Christian Selmoni, who provided the story of the new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, which you can watch in this aesthetic five-minute video.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Hublot 40 Years Anniversary Black Ceramic
It’s hard to believe it’s been four decades since the inception of arguably the most disruptive and provocative watchmaker in modern history. But we are indeed celebrating their 40th birthday and their first-ever watch – the Classic Original, otherwise known as the OG gold watch with a rubber strap. To commemorate the milestone, Hublot has … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot 40 Years Anniversary Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris: Oh Là Là! A Very French Take On Traditional Watchmaking
French independent watchmaker Theo Auffret has called Paris his professional home for many of the last eight years. His debut watch, the Tourbillon à Paris, is both testament to his watchmaking philosophy and a fine example of French tradition in practice.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch blends past and present
For many around the world, one of the unexpected side effects of a global pandemic is spending a lot more time on the couch watching Netflix. And if that’s something you can relate to, then you have probably watched (or at least been recommended to watch) The Social Dilemma, a documentary about the addictive elements … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch blends past and present appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox
Underwater, accomplished and amateur divers alike need to rely on equipment that is impeccable both in terms of precision and safety. While previous models of the Polaris automatic only came with 100m water resistance, the dive styled watch is now a dive ready watch with the upgraded 300m water resistance. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is also equipped with this update in an attractive blue sunburst dial.
Quill & Pad
Piaget 12P: The Birth Of An Ultra-Thin Legacy – Reprise
When Piaget introduced the manual wind Caliber 9P at the 1957 Basel Fair, at only 2 mm in height, it was considered an impossibility. Three years later, in 1960, Piaget stunned the watch world once again with Caliber 12P, an automatic movement that broke world records for its svelteness. What does that have to do with a vintage watch Martin Green saw? Find out here.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Why No Watch Is 'Waterproof'
"You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means." – The Federal Trade Commission, 1960
Revolution
Introducing the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie
Working with famed enameller Anita Porchet, the new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Grand Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie takes craftsmanship and technical innovation to the next level.
Time+Tide
One watch brand dominates the wrists of the LA Lakers, 2020 NBA champions
2020 has definitely been a chaotic year with the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic worldwide. Blockbuster films have been delayed, major music festivals cancelled, but at least one American pastime managed to go on relatively unscathed – NBA Basketball. Twenty-two teams participated in the 2020 NBA season, held within a quarantined bubble that both players and staff … ContinuedThe post One watch brand dominates the wrists of the LA Lakers, 2020 NBA champions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – 2nd Edition
Zenith had a surprise hit last year with the El Primero A384 Lupin The Third, a limited edition modelled on a fictional Zenith chronograph found in the Lupin III manga and anime series. Though available only in Japan, the 50-piece edition gained traction internationally with its striking gold-and-black livery. Now another Zenith watch found in the Japanese comic has been realised as the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – 2nd Edition. Launched to coincide with the opening of Zenith’s new boutique in Tokyo’s posh Ginza district, the new Lupin edition is a “panda” – featuring a white dial with black sub-dials as well as a parchment-coloured Super-Luminova. It’s based on the El Primero A384, a faithful remake of the vintage original of the same name, and shares the same specs. Initial thoughts The second Lupin edition lacks the high-contrast look of the first, but it does have a more classically vintage look that goes well with the angular A384 case. Zenith – or more accurately, the artist behind Lupin III, Monkey Punch – smartly removed most of the branding under 12 o’clock. The traditional four lines of text is now just one, bringing to mind similarly-clean Zenith dials of the 1970s. Perhaps the only weakness of the new edition is the short interval between this and the last one, about 11 months but feeling like a shorter span of time. And the new edition of 200 pieces is not large by watch industry standards, but substantially larger than the 50-pi...
Quill & Pad
New Chronoswiss SkelTec And Opus Chronograph: Contemporary Skeletonizing Bares All
Both the Chronoswiss SkelTec and the new Opus chronograph show that Chronoswiss is on track to continuing the innovation begun with 1995's Opus chronograph. Anders Modig takes a dive into contemporary skeletonization with two brand-new models by the brand, including two reboots of the original Opus.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Jean-Claude Biver tells the full Hublot story and WatchFest fires!
I don’t know if it’s advancing age, the sentimentality of the occasion (Hublot’s 40th Anniversary), or just our European Editor Mike’s interviewing technique, but the video we are to publish tomorrow night - starring Jean-Claude Biver and CEO Ricardo Guadalupe telling the Hublot story, from the day they took over the brand 24 years ago … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Jean-Claude Biver tells the full Hublot story and WatchFest fires! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire 42 mm – A Stealth Addition
Here, we bring you the details and our thoughts on the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire 42 mm, now in a smaller case and with a new movement to fit.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch
If you’re someone who spends more time looking at screens than you would like to, but don’t want to miss an important call, the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch is an interesting proposition. At first impression, or from across the room, you would think you were looking at a mechanical mid-century wristwatch. After all, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI”
IWC is not the only maker of pilot’s watches, but it is perhaps the best known. The brand’s line up of aviator’s timepieces is all encompassing, from basic three-handers to chronographs, and paradoxically for an aviation instrument, even perpetual calendars. But the latest pilot’s offering is straightforward. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI” is a chronograph with a ceramic case, but its pushers, crown, and case back are Ceratanium, which is essentially titanium coated with ceramic. And more notably, it’s a limited edition of 1,500 watches that will be sold publicly, but is based on a similar watch created in 2018 that is available only to graduates of the United States Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor (SFTI) programme, better known as TOPGUN. Initial thoughts IWC is not short on pilot’s watches, even special or limited-edition pilot’s watches. The brand has rolled out many, many iterations, variations, and editions. But the Pilot’s Watch collection is a bestseller so that’s commercially inevitable. But that doesn’t take away from the intrinsic appeal of a pilot’s watch. And IWC has been especially successful at tweaking the no-nonsense design to make it interesting in a way that appeals to the boy in every man. Some of the appeal isn’t sophisticated, but it is there – like the red fighter jet silhouette as the seconds hand counterweight. The base-model IWC Pilot’s Chronograph in steel has that appeal, and in blac...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45”
TAG Heuer continue to celebrate their 160th anniversary this year with the release of their latest heritage-inspired limited edition. This is a formula that has offered both surprise and delight to collectors around the world in 2020. With the release of several new references (which we have covered here, here and here) that not only … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
By the end of this video, you’ll know if you need James Bond’s Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition
EDITOR’S NOTE: We first published this story in July 2020 in the lead-up to the purported release of the new James Bond film, No Time to Die. And then the film was delayed and delayed and delayed. Until now… But while you may have got impatient for Daniel Craig’s last hurrah, don’t take it out on his Omega … ContinuedThe post By the end of this video, you’ll know if you need James Bond’s Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Watchmaking: How the Art of Precision Regulation Became a Science
They were once the horological elite, credited with magical powers. The precision timers who tuned the watches for the observatory trials in the 1960s and 1970s are now a dwindling band in the twilight of their lives. In those days, when mechanical precision rather than mechanical complication determined the value of a watch, precision timing was a post-graduate discipline that took a lifetime to master. Before he died last October in his 90th year, one old timer, François Mercier of Le Locle, described what he had to do to win prizes for his employers, initially Ulysse Nardin and then the hairspring spring manufacturer Spiraux Réunis. First, he had to identify the most faultless spring, calculate and shape the terminal curve, pin it up to the staff of a previously poised balance wheel. Then he would shift balance screws by hundredths of a millimetre, adjust forces and inertia in micrograms, to move a fraction of a second closer to the unattainable goal of a true and constant time. An overcoil hairspring in a contemporary Voutilainen Vingt-8 Temperature compensation The biggest challenge was to compensate for the effects of temperature changes on the steel alloy springs of old. As the temperature rose, the spring would lose its elasticity and beat more slowly. Such springs needed a compensation balance made of two metals each having a different coefficient of expansion. Rising temperatures would cause the cut ends of the balance rim to curl inwards, thereby increasing...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze
The Yema Superman is a strong vintage diver, with two selling points that should be a wake-up call for other brands, starting with an obvious and rather rhetorical question: When you go out to buy a pair of jeans with your slimmer and shorter mate (speaking for myself here), do you buy the exact same … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
8 affordable watches under $1000 that get the nod from watch snobs: 2020 Edition
At first glance, many assume that in order to get your feet wet in the horology hobby you have to shell out thousands and thousands of dollars to get a quality watch. The reality is there are plenty of more affordable options in the marketplace to elevate your wrist game, and gain the attention and … ContinuedThe post 8 affordable watches under $1000 that get the nod from watch snobs: 2020 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.