Hodinkee
Introducing: The Redesigned TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph: Meet The 39mm 'Glassbox' (Live Pics)
The Carrera enters its seventh decade with a midsized case and cool, modern confidence.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908
Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...
Worn & Wound
Zenith Relaunches the Pilot with Two New Aviation Themed Watches
It’s the year of the Pilot for Zenith. After shoring up their Chronomaster collection and injecting new life into the Defy over the last few years, Zenith has returned to the Pilot collection and given it a complete revamp. The Pilot is a historic line for Zenith, having trademarked the word “Pilote” all the way back in 1888 (and “Pilot” in 1904). In the early days of the company, the brand focused largely on the manufacture of flight instruments and watches for pilots. They of course weren’t the only brand to cut their manufacturing teeth on the burgeoning need for these types of devices, but were (and still are) the only brand to trademark the word “Pilot,” which allows them the opportunity to use it on the dial in a way other brand’s can’t. The new collection is a stab at bringing something very old in Zenith’s history and making it new in a very explicit way. In other words, these aren’t vintage inspired pilot’s watches, but something far more contemporary. There are two new watches making their debut this week, each in two different materials, for a total of four new Pilots flying their way into boutiques soon enough. The Pilot Automatic is a three hander running on the El Primero 3620, the same chrono-less EP movement found in the Defy Skyline collection. We get a date at 6:00, right below a horizontal line that is meant to recall indicators on a pilot’s instrument panel to refer them back to the horizon line. The Arabic numerals are large...
Quill & Pad
How To Make Gold: All The Gold On Earth Came From A Big Bang (Not That One) In Outer Space – Reprise
The most common choice for classic dress watches has to be gold, but have you ever wondered where that gold originally came from? And by "originally" Ian Skellern isn't referring to a gold mine on earth but the original source of the gold before it even arrived on our planet. Spoiler alert: it involves an explosion, a very big explosion!
Deployant
Live from W&W;: the new Ulysse Nardin Freak 1
UN goes back to the original Freak roots with the new Freak 1. Live report from the Ulysse Nardin Booth at Watches and Worders 2023.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial
The Patek Philippe 5224R is slated to be the ultimate travel Calatrava It pairs a slim micro-rotor calibre with a travel time complication and 24-hour display All the movement functions are operated via the crown via a patented system The travel time has become somewhat of a Patek Philippe signature over the years, with the … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 is a minute repeater with a stunning flinqué enamel dial
The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 impresses through its flinqué blue Grand Feu enamel dial. The 40mm case is made from illustrious 18k white gold. The calibre R 27 PS features a 22k gold micro-rotor and a minute repeater complication. Being perhaps the most famous high-horology watchmaker of the current age, it’s never going to be totally … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 is a minute repeater with a stunning flinqué enamel dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tag Heuer Aquaracer Released In Two Tone With Inlaid 18k Gold… That’s One Way To Ruin A Watch
That moment when you try to combine luxury and performance in a wristwatch and you basically just fantastically screw both concepts up.
Time+Tide
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds benefits from a tiny upgrade with an oversized impact
There was always much to admire about the 2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds. The Reverso’s standard Art-Deco charm was all present and correct with that winning mix of classicism and sharp formality. There were the fun colours (blue! burgundy! green!) that loosened the proposition up a touch and gave it a contemporary edge. There … ContinuedThe post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds benefits from a tiny upgrade with an oversized impact appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial
The Tudor Black Bay GMT is now available with an opaline white dial. Paired with the Snowflake hand set, it makes for a refreshing look. The blue and burgundy bezel looks more vibrant in contrast. Although last year’s Watches & Wonders held thunderous announcements for Tudor’s GMT fans thanks to the Black Bay Pro and … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation
The new Tudor Royal models are paired with chocolate brown and salmon dials. There are four case sizes spanning from 28mm to 41mm. Each watch is available with or without diamond hour markers. Any time a design risk is taken, people could turn one way or another. The Tudor Royal is undoubtedly their most visually … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Tudor Black Bay 54 Doesn't Waste A Millimeter
Smaller and thinner – but packed full of everything you want from a Black Bay.
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Day 1 Recap
Throughout the week, the Worn & Wound team on the ground in Geneva will be bringing you updates on our general impressions of the show as it happens. At the end of the day, you can expect our candid thoughts on the watches we saw, the tenor of the crowd, observations of what people are discussing and really excited about, and, of course, a rundown of all the sandwiches consumed in the press lounge. Without any further delay, here’s our Day 1 recap. Zach Kazan Day 1 of Watches & Wonders began with a choice: which watch to wear? I brought three: my IWC 3706, the Louis Erard I picked up recently, and the Grand Seiko SBGA469. I decided on the Grand Seiko, partly because I had a meeting with them later in the day, and partly because it feels like the dressiest watch I brought with me, and that’s kind of the vibe on the first day of Watches & Wonders. My first impression of Watches & Wonders last year (my first show) was that of total insanity. It seemed electric, and my memory is that the hall was full of people right from the start. I honestly can’t remember what time we actually arrived on day 1 last year, but this year we were among the first at Palexpo, and the mood was quite a bit more subdued. My first meeting was at 10:00, and until that time we mostly got our bearings as a team, went over the plan we had previously established, and watched the hall fill up (gradually) as we waited for that first appointment. Maybe it’s the fact that this is no longer a brand n...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Rolex Perpetual 1908 Might Just Be The Dressy Rolex We’ve Been Waiting For
Goodbye Cellini. Say hello to the new Perpetual collection and the Perpetual 1908.
Revolution
VIDEO: Hands-on with Cartier’s new novelties
Revolution Editor-at-large Eleonor Picciotto introduces new novelties that Cartier presented at Watches and Wonders 2023. This year’s novelties include Tank Françaises, Tank Louis Cartiers, Cartier Tank Américane, Tank Normale and several beautiful Cartier Clash jewelry pieces. Stay tuned because we’ll be back to show you more Cartier timepieces.
Worn & Wound
A Lange & Sohne Odysseus Gets Trick Automatic Chronograph
A Lange & Sohne came to Watches & Wonders with just a single release this year, and that’s all they needed to make a big impression. The watch is a new member of the Odysseus family, and it welcomes the brand’s first automatic chronograph. Like all of Lange chronograph movements, the new L156.1 within this watch is quite special, both mechanically and aesthetically. It should come as no surprise that the Odysseus platform accepts a chronograph compilation with ease, given the existing set of pushers that are integrated into the case, which are normally used to adjust the day and date. They still are, however their main function has been shifted to operating the chronograph. The Odysseus Chronograph retains the outsized day and date apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively, as well as a running seconds hand nested at 6 o’clock. There are no other sub dials present. The timing seconds and minute hands are stacked together and centrally mounted, just like the equally fabulous Sinn EZM1. When started, the red anodized aluminum timing seconds hand kicks into action, and the second timing hand records each minute that passes, up to 60 minutes. One unique detail here worth noting is that, when reset, that seconds hand will retrace every lap it’s taken around the dial. So if you’ve timed something for 15 minutes before resetting, the seconds hand will make 15 laps in quick succession back to its starting place. These operations are routed through the integrated pusher...
Revolution
VIDEO: Tudor’s new Black Bay models
Revolution Founder Wei Koh and Revolution UK Editor-in-Chief Ross Povey were some of the first people at Watches and Wonders to get their hands on the new Tudor novelties. They had the honor of being led through this exciting collection by Tudor’s Head of Public Relations Christophe Chevalier. The Tudor Black Bay returns in 37mm, […]
Worn & Wound
Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition
Oris is expanding on their popular ProPilot X range of watches this year (a watch we reviewed here), but probably not in the way you were expecting. Meet the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, a green dial ProPilot X with a positive message and an easter egg up its sleeve. This watch represents Oris’ first time collaborating with Disney’s The Muppets franchise to create a truly unique experience around their popular pilot watch, and it gives us a deeper insight into Oris the brand than ever before. The theme of this watch is taking a minute for yourself, not taking life too seriously, and a reminder to have some fun. The most striking detail of this ProPilot X is, obviously, the bright green dial. It’s not just any green, this is a key lime pie, cartoon level of green, and with a name like this you had better bring it. And bring it Oris most certainly has with this dial. I’d go so far as to say they could have ditched the white hour markers altogether and fully leaned into the concept, but they are there, so there is a level of practicality to the watch. There’s even a date window, but that part isn’t as straightforward. The big reveal of this watch happens on the first of every month, where the date window will reveal not a number, but an icon of the watch’s namesake, Kermit the Frog, of The Muppets fame. This is the once a month reminder to take a step back, lighten up a bit, and reflect on the positives in your life. That’s the idea, at least, and it might jus...
Hodinkee
Watches In The Wild: The Road Through America, Episode 4: The West Coast Collectors
Our four-part docuseries concludes. Join us as James and Cole road trip north from Los Angeles and dive into watch enthusiasm along the California Coast.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Tudor Black Bay Lineup With In-House Movements
They range from 31mm to 41mm. We've got color changes and a new movement. But the best day-to-day improvement might just be the quick-adjust clasp.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Tudor Adds An Opaline Dial To The Black Bay GMT
We've got a 'polar' sport watch from Tudor – and it looks ice cold.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The 37mm Tudor Black Bay 54
You can get a steel bracelet or a rubber strap. And there's no date.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Introducing The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
The IWC Ingenieur is back! Here's a look at the new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 released in steel and titanium at Watches & Wonders 2023.
Revolution
VIDEO: A Sneak Peek at Vacheron Constantin’s 2023 Novelties
Eleonor visits Vacheron Constantin’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates a couple of weeks before Watches and Wonders and the maison’s Style and Heritage Director, Christian Selmoni gives us a sneak preview of some of the novelties that will be launched at the fair. The retrograde complication is the theme for this year and we take a closer […]
Worn & Wound
Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary
Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference. At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In RLX Titanium
A prototype surfaced years ago, and now the watch is a reality…on a bracelet.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Six New Very Colorful Rolex Day-Dates
Emojis, inspirational words and stone dials!
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Cartier Tank Américaine
A thinner, curvier, and slightly more refined Tank Américaine keeps a classic fresh.
Hodinkee
Introducing: An Official Kermit Watch From Oris
The green-bezel Submariner was never an official Kermit. This one is. And it's so much fun.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Grand Seiko SLGC001G Tentagraph – Is The Brand’s First Chronograph Worth Your Time?
At Watches and Wonders 2023 the iconic Japanese brand shared their next innovative vision for their product line's direction: the SLG001G Tentagraph, their first ever mechanical chronograph.