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Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Blue Brings The Fun Back WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Aug 3, 2026

Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Blue Brings The Fun Back

I took one of TAG Heuer’s most vibrant Formula 1 Solargraph editions out for a test drive to see whether its playful design is backed by everyday practicality. What We Love: Vibrant Pastel Blue feels refreshing and full of character Recaptures the playful spirit of the original Formula 1 Lightweight wearability and Solargraph practicality suit the fun aesthetic. What We Don’t: AUD $2,950 feels steep for a quartz TH-Polylight watch. The monochromatic design may be too niche for some. Limited strap options restrict its overall versatility. Overall Rating: 8.3/10 Value for Money: 8.3/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.0/10 Few watches in TAG Heuer’s catalogue like to have fun quite like the Formula 1 Solargraphs. Originally introduced in 1986, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 editions represented a new beginning for the recently formed brand, bringing together colourful designs, lightweight construction, reliable quartz movements and an accessible price point. Original 1986 TAG Heuer Formula 1. Image reference: Magazine.Tagheuer.com The first Formula 1 editions arrived during a period when colourful quartz watches were trending, helping to reinvigorate the Swiss watch industry after the Quartz Crisis. TAG Heuer looked to join in on the fun and responded with something lightweight, accessible and closely connected to the brand’s history and heritage in motorsport. The vibrant colours and composite construction of the watches separated them from tradition...

Up, Up, And Away With The RGM Model 151 Snoopy Flying Ace Fratello
Omega I can’t say Aug 2, 2026

Up, Up, And Away With The RGM Model 151 Snoopy Flying Ace

Today, we take a look at a surprising release. While Snoopy has been featured on watches ranging from Timex to Omega, I can’t say that I was expecting the character to arrive on an RGM. However, the small Pennsylvania-based brand now joins the club with a unique take on the Peanuts character. As the company […] Visit Up, Up, And Away With The RGM Model 151 Snoopy Flying Ace to read the full article.

How A Smiths Dash Clock Helped A Pioneering Pilot Traverse The World Fratello
Aug 2, 2026

How A Smiths Dash Clock Helped A Pioneering Pilot Traverse The World

In the dim light at the Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT) in Auckland and among the glamorous early motor cars and remarkable early aircraft, there is a small and humble Smiths dash clock. Its black dial and white numerals emphasize legibility. The dash clock was a compact, precise instrument born of the early 20th […] Visit How A Smiths Dash Clock Helped A Pioneering Pilot Traverse The World to read the full article.

Understanding the Omega Ploprof: what it is, why it exists, and whether it is actually for you WristBuzz
Understanding the Omega Ploprof: what it is, why it exists, and whether it is actually for you Aug 2, 2026

Understanding the Omega Ploprof: what it is, why it exists, and whether it is actually for you

It looks like nothing else on the wrist. Crown at 9, a red locking bezel button, a case shape that has divided opinion for 55 years. Here is the history, the current model, and the honest question of whether the Ploprof is a Ploprof for you or a very expensive nope.

Casio Edifice EFB-730: The Best Affordable Panda Chronograph? Owner Review WatchRider
Zenith El Primero A384 Introduced Aug 1, 2026

Casio Edifice EFB-730: The Best Affordable Panda Chronograph? Owner Review

In my opinion, panda watches are probably the most beautiful and classic watch designs ever made, which explains why I own around ten of them. In this article, we are looking at two models from Casio that I own: the Edifice EFB-730D-7AV on a stainless steel bracelet, that has a clean silver dial with black subdials, and the Edifice EFB-730L-7AV on a brown leather strap, but with a more vintage off-white dial and orange accents. And to make this even more interesting I will compare them with my Tudor Black Bay Chrono Panda M79360N-0002. In the following sections, I will cover what I like, what I do not like, or rather what I would like to see in future versions, whether these watches feel premium, and two questions you probably have in mind: why I own both and whether I am going to sell them. Panda Design, Case Size and Comfort The panda dial is clearly the main attraction, but what makes these Casio models stand out from the many affordable panda chronographs is the shape of the case. Instead of using the familiar round design seen on watches such as the Tudor Black Bay Chrono, the EFB-730 has a tonneau shape that immediately reminded me of the legendary Zenith El Primero A384. Introduced in 1969, the A384 combined a distinctive tonneau-shaped case (often referred to as a barrel shape) with a white dial, three black chronograph counters and a date window positioned between four and five o’clock. The modern A384 Revival faithfully recreates that design with a 37 mm tonnea...

Baltic Adds a Date to the Aquascaphe MK2 Without Making It Thicker WatchRider
Baltic Adds Jul 31, 2026

Baltic Adds a Date to the Aquascaphe MK2 Without Making It Thicker

The Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 is getting its first date display. This is not a replacement for the clean no-date model and it is not a limited edition. Instead, Baltic has added “Date” as a new choice across the existing MK2 range, giving buyers a useful complication without changing the case size or thickness. That distinction matters because the Aquascaphe MK2 itself is not new. Baltic introduced the second-generation model in September 2025. The news at the end of July 2026 is that customers can now order it with a date window, with deliveries scheduled for the end of August. The date is available with all four current dial colours and both case sizes. The blue and green versions have glossy dials, while the grey and warm silver models use a more textured, grained finish. Baltic does not list separate traditional reference numbers for every combination; diameter, date and strap are selected when configuring the watch. A date window that respects the dial Adding a date to a carefully balanced dive-watch dial can easily create a mess. Baltic has taken the safer route by placing the window at six o’clock, directly above the 30-minute bezel marker. The frame is finely bevelled and the date disc is matched to the dial colour, so the display looks like part of the design rather than a white rectangle added at the last moment. The placement also preserves the vertical balance created by the applied Arabic 12. It replaces the round six o’clock marker, but it does not push t...

Bring a Loupe: A Wittnauer 235T, A Cleto Munari "Sotsy," A Blancpain Technisub, And An Eberhard Contograf Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Day Date Moonphase almost Jul 31, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Wittnauer 235T, A Cleto Munari "Sotsy," A Blancpain Technisub, And An Eberhard Contograf

You hanging in there, Baller? It feels like it's been a hard bit, or at least it is with the folks I check in with. I hope that, despite whatever's frustrating you and causing grief—from stubbed toes to wildfires and their attendant smoke to your team not making enough moves at the trade deadline—you're getting by. And congrats, obviously, to all the Sixers fans. Strays Photo courtesy of Huntington Company. Perhaps, like me, you were unaware that in 1967 Bulova made an Accutron Astronaut in 18k gold, and if that sounds like fun, Goodwill's got one that's on an 18k JP Champion bracelet to boot. The good folks at Huntington Company have a bit of a left of the dial watch this week, this Sarcar triple date with moonphase, and a fun game to play is to imagine what it'd be priced at with a different name on the dial. If you're bored by watches that are too quiet, or you're interested in truly unhinged complications, here's a Boegli which features a music box that plays a bit of Mozart's "The Magic Flute." For those who missed their shot on the Louis Erard x Kudoke Regulator from a few years ago, here's a very very nice blue one, and if you'd prefer a different blue watch, this Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust is almost certainly not from 2005, as the listing says (it's got a tritium dial, for one, plus the reference 17000 ceased production in 2001), but it certainly looks in great shape. Finally, here's a phenomenally pretty gold Audemars Piguet Day Date Moonphase (almost certain...

Ming Introduces the 37.06 Royal Selangor, a Limited Edition with a Hammered Pewter Dial Worn & Wound
Ming Introduces Jul 30, 2026

Ming Introduces the 37.06 Royal Selangor, a Limited Edition with a Hammered Pewter Dial

The latest from Ming is a collaboration that I think most enthusiasts could never have predicted, but makes quite a bit sense when you take a few steps back and look at the participants from a high level. The new 37.06 Royal Selangor is a new limited edition made in partnership with Royal Selangor, the well known pewter manufacturer, by some accounts the largest in the world. Both brands have roots in Kuala Lumpur, and the collaboration took shape after Ming Thein helped a client collect his camera, reskinned by Royal Selangor in Malaysia. Thein and Royal Selangor CEO Yong Yoon Li shared a meal, and that was enough to generate the seeds of a collaborative watch. Pewter is not commonly used in watchmaking. Used since antiquity to craft a variety of objects including decorative metal items and tableware of all kinds, it is an alloy that is largely made from tin, which is highly malleable and has a low melting point. That makes it relatively easy to work with compared with some metal alloys, but the process is necessarily undertaken largely by hand, which opens up all kinds of craft opportunities which is what Royal Selangor excels at. Pewter does not generally tarnish or corrode, but it does develop a patina after long periods of use.  The 37.06 Royal Selangor features a pewter dial with a hammered texture, similar to those used in Ming watches in the past. According to Ming, the filing, polishing, and finishing of pewter is all traditionally done by hand, even now at a tim...

Citizen Introduces the Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Jul 29, 2026

Citizen Introduces the Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition

It’s devilishly easy to be reeled in by the promise of a limited edition item. The allure of exclusivity, the potential for appreciation, the collectability factor: all perfectly reasonable excuses to cash in on a limited watch. Still, most enthusiasts (myself included) are understandably frustrated when these cool limited models come at a hefty price tag or feel like unobtainium due to double-digit production volume. Enter watches like the new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip”, which, while technically limited at 12,000 units, promises a more affordable and obtainable entry into the limited edition collectible world, while still retaining some of that “exclusive” magic.  Citizen’s Tsuyosa collection has made quite the name for itself as a bold, sub-$1,000 line of automatic watches. Most of the models involve loud colors and subtle, minimalist design, making them great choices for everyday wear, or a new enthusiast’s first mechanical watch. The Time Slip joins two other skin diver-adjacent Shore models in the Tsuyosa line. Like the non-limited previous models, it boasts 100 meters of water resistance within a 40mm stainless steel case. Inside, a caliber 8210 automatic movement powers the stop second and date (with a “cyclops” style magnifying window) functions. It’s a neat little package that allows for the robust longevity of a mechanical movement, but even with a unidirectional bezel and added legibility features like luminous hands and indices, it d...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Jul 29, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices

This week on The Business of Watches, we take stock at the halfway point of the year for watch auctions. Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas, Europe and Middle East, gives us his take on what's driving the interest of the top watch collectors these days. It's a pivotal time, with the watch auction market setting record sales results at most of the top auction houses despite global economic challenges and geopolitical tensions and conflicts.  Remi Guillemin at the rostrum in Geneva.Photo courtesy Christie's  The last time the market was this hot was in the post-COVID era of 2021 and 2022. Guillemin believes this time is different, and he tells us why references from F.P. Journe and Cartier, and (surprise!) pocket watches, are driving the market these days and how that's a fundamental shift from the hype watch driven boom post-pandemic. He also shows us some of the watches in his personal collection and reveals the grail he's still chasing.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes 0:36 Remi Guillemin (Christie's website - scroll for bio) 1:00 Auctions: The Five Result...

Video: Meet The Artisans De Genève And Discover Their Exceptional Craft Fratello
Jul 29, 2026

Video: Meet The Artisans De Genève And Discover Their Exceptional Craft

Artisans de Genève is an independent watchmaking workshop offering handcrafted timepiece customization and restoration services. AdG is neither associated nor affiliated with the makers/brands of those timepieces. Artisans de Genève carries out work at the sole request of its customers, on their timepieces, for their private use only. The Artisans de Genève are a group […] Visit Video: Meet The Artisans De Genève And Discover Their Exceptional Craft to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Longines Hydroconquest 39mm Hodinkee
Longines Hydroconquest 39mm Although Jul 28, 2026

Hands-On: The Longines Hydroconquest 39mm

Although the most current form of the Longines Hydroconquest has only been around since March of this year, it comes up in a lot of conversations. Since its release, it has found considerable relevance with the value-focused audience, managing to strike a balance that is becoming increasingly rare – strong enthusiast value from a major brand at a competitive sub-luxury price point. In a space that used to be dominated by Omega (and more recently, Tudor), Longines has stepped up with an offering that checks a lot of boxes, including the fact that this new and nicely proportioned diver rocks a price tag that feels more 2016 than 2026. Launched in 2007 as a dive-themed spin on the brand's longstanding Conquest line, the Hydroconquest has had a handful of generations that progressively refined what started as a quirky diver with oversized numerals, chiseled crown guards, and a characterful hour hand with a diamond-shaped lume plot. Until recently, with the launch of the latest generation, that was the known format of the Hydroconquest. With modern positioning, it was just unconventional enough to stand out among its peers, and the brand's alignment with Swatch allowed for reliable movements, attractive price points, and the chance of local retail availability. An example of a 2018 Hydroconquest in 41mm offered as a US market LE.  Then, earlier this year, Longines launched this latest iteration in 42mm and, yes, 39mm. The watch you see here is the 39mm example, and its steel...

Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead Fratello
Jul 28, 2026

Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead

If you clicked on this article, it probably means that Swatch didn’t select you as one of the 1,969 lucky people who can buy the MoonSwatch Mission To The Moon 1969 with its Moonshine Gold dial, hands, and pushers. If it is of any comfort to you, none of us at Fratello got one either. […] Visit Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead to read the full article.

A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver Fratello
Jul 28, 2026

A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver

Making a dive watch stand out today is genuinely tough. The archetype has been reinterpreted so many times that most releases blur together. The Aera D-1 Diver, however, managed to catch my attention with its less-is-more design philosophy. This modern diver uses fairly minimalist visual cues and combines them with a beautifully sculpted case. Add […] Visit A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver to read the full article.

Hands On: Singer Reimagined DualTrack SJX Watches
Singer Jul 28, 2026

Hands On: Singer Reimagined DualTrack

Having made its name with auto-racing central chronographs, Singer Reimagined recently debuted its first-ever GMT, the DualTrack. Retaining the aesthetic established by Singer’s chronographs, the DualTrack is a straightforward “caller” dual-time watch with a local time display and independent 24-hour ring. On the back, however, the DualTrack reveals its party trick: a manual wind movement with four visible barrels that combine for six days of power reserve. Developed by an unnamed specialist (that is probably Chronode), the ST5001 has four mainsprings spread out across the movement with the balance hoisted above them, making for an unusual construction and layout. Initial thoughts I like Singer’s original proposition of racing-inspired central chronographs, which are true to the brand’s origins as an offshoot of the cult Porsche 911 mod specialist, Singer Vehicle Design. The Track 1 chronograph was a good debut concept backed by an innovative movement. The DualTrack is similar, but simpler, more affordable, and also more practical. The DualTrack still has the retro-inspired, cushion-shaped case that’s approximately the same as that on the chronograph, making it a little chunky, but the size feels appropriate for a sports watch. It also feels good on the wrist; in contrast, the smaller Caballero with the same base movement feels too small. But instead of a central chronograph, the DualTrack has a pair of useful features: a second time zone and a long power reser...

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Jul 27, 2026

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch

In our first addendum to our Reference Points video and story on Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, we looked at Patek Philippe split-second pocket watches and the brand's relationship with its supplier, Victorin Piguet. Switzerland has (and continues to have) the most robust supplier marketplace for everything from complex movements to dials and cases. In the warmer months of the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, it was easy enough to just send someone on a short journey to the Vallée de Joux with a letter requesting a movement or other parts and receive one a short time later. These établisseurs all had their own specialties, but few were as important as Victorin Piguet. I'd argue it was far more unusual for Victorin Piguet not to be involved in a watch (such as their absence from the La Grosse Pièce project for Audemars Piguet) than to see their name on supplier lists. So what was their impact on wristwatches? In our video, we focused solely on serially produced models (and even then, there were a few we couldn't get our hands on), all of which started after Patek shifted its production more in-house. One thing we didn't discuss, however, was the history of the brand's first split-seconds wristwatches, which used a Victorin Piguet ébauche. It's no understatement that these watches are among the most important in Patek Philippe's history and among the most coveted for vintage-focused Patek collectors. One-off, bespoke pieces, these watches don't exactly fit...

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 27, 2026

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

Swiss indie BA111OD has introduced a new version of their Chapter 7 integrated bracelet sports watch featuring a skeleton dial. BA111OD has quietly been building a reputation these last few years for challenging long held conventions about value and what can be expected at certain price points (they make tourbillons starting at around $10,000). While the brand was founded in 2019, the family behind it has a watchmaking lineage that goes all the way back to the 18th century, so their perspective is shaped by both traditional Swiss watchmaking values and modern design sensibilities. I’ll be honest, my first reaction to the core Chapter 7 watches when they were initially introduced was essentially a shrug of the shoulders. Certainly there was nothing wrong with it, but it seemed to me to be yet another integrated bracelet design, an idea that has quickly become generic in these years following the Royal Oak and Nautilus boom. Somehow, though, with the skeleton version of the Chapter 7, first seen with an anthracite PVD treatment, the watch seemed to come together for me. I’m a sucker for a well executed skeleton treatment on a sports watch, and BA111OD’s approach, with cantilevered indices over a solid rehaut surrounding the open dial, makes for a legible and easy to digest presentation.  Last week, BA111OD unveiled a new version of the Chapter 7 Skeleton with a natural steel finish that they say is inspired by the summer light in Neuchâtel, where the brand is based. ...

SJX Podcast: A Rolling Rolex SJX Watches
Rolex Jul 27, 2026

SJX Podcast: A Rolling Rolex

In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, we examine the Swiss watch industry’s June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop. The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand’s patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.

The Value Proposition: Caravelle Sea Hunter By Bulova Fratello
Bulova There Jul 26, 2026

The Value Proposition: Caravelle Sea Hunter By Bulova

There is a particular kind of relish in finding a watch that makes it feel as if the Quartz Crisis never happened. That was exactly the case with the new Caravelle Sea Hunter. At €270 delivered to me in Sydney, Australia, this is not a particularly expensive mechanical dive watch, nor is it one that […] Visit The Value Proposition: Caravelle Sea Hunter By Bulova to read the full article.

Gear Guide: Nine Safety Essentials for Every Solo Hiker Worn & Wound
Jul 24, 2026

Gear Guide: Nine Safety Essentials for Every Solo Hiker

Wilderness exists outside the scope of human influence. Weather, trail conditions, and wildlife are some of the reasons we seek experiences outdoors, but they are always the most unpredictable aspects. When it comes to preparedness and hiking gear, it can be hard to determine the right mix of useful items to bring on an excursion and what might unnecessarily occupy precious space in a bag. As a Coloradan who enjoys being outside, I find myself thinking about these things at the start of every summer – and my pack has certainly evolved along with my experience. Yet, I also find myself influenced by EDC culture telling me “this one gadget could save my life.” In late May, I sought out an opportunity to learn what I should actually prioritize when I head to the trail. The weekend was spent crammed in a frigid office building with thirty people and countless CPR dummies. Over a period of sixteen hours, I learned how to conduct head-to-toe exams, assess and treat injuries, evaluate environmental hazards, and the skills needed to be a leader in a wilderness setting where professional medical care may be hours away. I finished the course with a shiny new Wilderness First Aid (WFA) badge, a re-upped CPR/AED certification, and a bit more confidence in how to pack a hiking bag. Above all, I learned that preparation is the only part of a trip we can control. A few weeks ago, I put that knowledge into practice as I headed six hours south to Taos, New Mexico for my first solo hik...

The Best Watches for Summer 2026 SJX Watches
Seiko Jul 24, 2026

The Best Watches for Summer 2026

As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, we’re taking a look at some of the best beach-ready watches released in the first half of 2026. While the definition of a “summer watch” is subjective, the best examples tend to be robust, comfortable, and colourful, with enough personality to work well with short sleeves. We round up the most promising candidates of the year, spanning nearly all price categories. Under US$5,000 Seiko is a perennial favourite when it comes to value-oriented watchmaking, and so it’s no surprise that the brand has more than one candidate in the entry level pricing tier. First up is the Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition, a collaboration with the American streetwear brand founded by the late professional skateboarder Keith Hufnagel. But the appeal of the translucent green dial — which reveals parts of the day and date mechanism below — is obvious even if you plan to summer at the beach rather than the skate park. The look is inspired by Seiko’s Time Sonar flyback chronographs of the 1970s, though the new watch is a conventional three-hander powered by the cal. 4R36. It is robust enough for almost anything one might reasonably do on holiday, and cheap enough — just US$400 — that its owner can actually relax while wearing it. The ‘Seiko summer’ theme continues with the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch HBF001, the latest evolution of the brand’s no-nonsense diver, now upgraded in nearly every ...

Hands-on - All the new Dials for the Rolex Datejust in 2026, and There’s Much More than the Green Ombré Monochrome
Rolex Datejust Jul 22, 2026

Hands-on - All the new Dials for the Rolex Datejust in 2026, and There’s Much More than the Green Ombré

For 2026, Rolex had a pretty big year at Watches and Wonders Geneva. There was, of course, the much-debated high-end Rolesium and enamel Daytona, the revamped Yacht-Master II, or a new gold alloy named Jubilee gold for the Day-Date. Then, the Crown publicly showed the special edition steel and gold Oyster Perpetual 100th Anniversary. You thought […]

Introducing - New Green and Blue Dials for the Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve 40mm Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve Jul 22, 2026

Introducing - New Green and Blue Dials for the Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve 40mm

Hamilton, once one of the largest American watchmakers, has a long tradition of accessible, robust field watches and military-inspired timepieces, a style that’s been crucial for the brand with its Khaki Field Collection. While most of the models are modelled after the mid-20th-century Hamilton Hacked watches, some editions took the brief at face value, while some, […]

Hands-On With The Daring And Downsized Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jul 22, 2026

Hands-On With The Daring And Downsized Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”

Just like an actual bumblebee, Tudor’s new Black Bay Chrono 39 appeared out of nowhere at the beginning of June. We hadn’t even had a chance to recover properly from Watches and Wonders yet. Tudor, on the other hand, was ready to go again with one of the most exciting releases of the year. Following […] Visit Hands-On With The Daring And Downsized Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” to read the full article.

Hands On: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux Jul 22, 2026

Hands On: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

Parmigiani Fleurier (PF) continues its exploration of “mysterious complications” with the Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux, a fully functional and surprisingly legible chronograph that is indistinguishable from a normal three-hand watch — until it isn’t. Pressing the conveniently placed chronograph monopusher summons a chronograph on demand, fully equipped with central minutes and hour totalisers, which disappears just as easily. Despite being one of the most ambitious chronographs on the market, it is priced relatively accessibly, at least in steel. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Chronographe Mystérieux is nearly indistinguishable from a normal three-hand watch, unless you spot the pair of rose gold hands secreted under the mean time hands. Depressing the chronograph button at eight o’clock causes these, along with the sweep seconds hand, to fly back to zero and being timing intervals up to 12 hours. The concept is not unlike that of the Maurice Lacroix Memoire 1, little-known halo piece that debuted in 2007 for EUR300,000. The Chronographe Mystérieux would work the same way without its hour and minutes hands, but their presence ensures the user can still read the time when the chronograph is running. The result is a highly legible dial, enhanced with an almost excessively fine grain d’orge guilloché that, like the undersized 18k gold hour markers, gets out of the way of the hands. At launch, PF offers two variants of the Chronographe Mystérieux ...

Dispatch: A Love Letter To "The Valley of Complications" Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre was Jul 21, 2026

Dispatch: A Love Letter To "The Valley of Complications"

Two months ago, I spent a Friday lunch eating a sandwich called the Crazy Poulet at Notos Bar Restaurant in Le Sentier with Mark Schmid, who is a sort of jack-of-all-trades in the marketing and communications department at Audemars Piguet. Schmid has quickly become someone I'd consider a friend, whom I appreciate for our candid conversations, his willingness (and frequency) to correct my confusion between l'accent aigu and l'accent grave in articles, and, more recently, his gastronomic suggestions. I'm sure this story will require a few more corrections from Mark, for which I apologize (mostly to him) in advance, but I wanted to share a recent experience that illustrates why I love Switzerland's Vallée de Joux, past and present. Le Sentier, pictured back in 2022 on the author's first trip to Switzerland. The town, now home to the headquarters of Jaeger-LeCoultre, was the hometown of Samuel-Olivier Meylan, the first watchmaker in the valley who began crafting timepieces around 1743 and set the stage for what is arguably the most important geographic location in watchmaking. "People ask me what I'd want to do if I didn't work at Hodinkee," I said. "Sometimes I say that I wish I could be the head of the tourism bureau for the Vallée de Joux." "Well, maybe you could be our advocate in New York," he said. "But if you came back here on a Thursday night at 4 o'clock, this place would be full. You'd hear watchmakers talking about all the things they were up to at AP, JLC, Blancp...

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 'Twin Beat' Perpetual Calendar Returns Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Jul 20, 2026

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 'Twin Beat' Perpetual Calendar Returns

When Vacheron Constantin announced the original Twin-Beat at SIHH in 2019, I wasn't in the watch space in the same way I am now. I was also focused on a much different price point—the one I shop in, not the one that I've since become fascinated by. So I missed it. A lot of people did, it seems. I don't think this watch, as interesting as it is/was as a first release, was made in particularly large numbers, and for over a year, I heard rumblings about the eventual return of the Twin-Beat. Well, it's here. It's improved. And yes, in the metal, it's both entertaining and impressive. But what is it? Essentially, the watch leverages two balances that beat at different rates to provide either 4 days of power reserve running at 5Hz or 70 days in standby mode at 1.2Hz. Oh, and it's a perpetual calendar as well. We covered the technical aspects back in 2019, so this will focus more on the watch as a revived model. The technical is the key here, but the form factor is impressive as well. A perpetual calendar, with dual balances, measuring 42mm and 12.3mm thick, it's hefty because of the platinum case, but it wears quite well despite the technicality. Vacheron has a tendency to make some impressively complicated watches and, unfortunately, make them quite large in the process. This would never have been a problem in the old days (especially for brands like Patek, which dominated this high-end, integrated complication space), but then again, the specifications of the old days don't ...

The Ultimate Flex: When Watch Brands Leave Their Names Off The Dial Fratello
Jul 20, 2026

The Ultimate Flex: When Watch Brands Leave Their Names Off The Dial

In an age when luxury brands seem incapable of subtlety, there is something deeply seductive about a watch dial that says… nothing at all. Just form, texture, proportion, and confidence. Increasingly, some of the coolest watchmakers in the world are discovering that the ultimate flex is silence. It is a fascinating reversal of decades of […] Visit The Ultimate Flex: When Watch Brands Leave Their Names Off The Dial to read the full article.