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Big Bang Hublot

Hublot's 2005 "Art of Fusion" chronograph that reshaped 21st-century luxury.

Longines Makes Some Significant Updates to the Spirit Collection with a Pair of New Releases Worn & Wound
Longines Makes Some Significant Updates Oct 2, 2025

Longines Makes Some Significant Updates to the Spirit Collection with a Pair of New Releases

Longines has announced a pair of new watches in their Spirit collection today, and taken together it feels like a fairly significant shift and update for the five year old line. When the Spirit watches launched in 2020, it represented Longines making an attempt to develop watches that put more of a balance on contemporary vs. vintage inspired divide, having spent years carving out a niche as one of the most tasteful reinterpreters of their own back catalog. The Spirit watches were an entirely new invention but still leaned into the brand’s natural heritage appeal, and impressed from the start with excellent finishing and build quality. As the collection expanded over the years, it’s grown full of under the radar sleepers, but a handful of little issues are always mentioned by admittedly picky enthusiasts when new products drop. At least some of those seem to have been addressed between these new releases, updated versions of the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback.  We’ll look at the Spirit Pilot Flyback first, as it’s a genuinely surprising and unexpected evolution of an ambitious watch that Longines debuted just two years ago. Longines has a long history with chronographs, and flyback chronographs specifically, so the introduction of a new flyback chrono at a competitive price point (at launch it came in under $5,000 in steel) was a big deal. Unfortunately, the case was just enormous, coming in at 42mm in diameter and around 17mm tall. The case height, in part...

Timex Launches “Timex Atelier” with the New Marine M1a Worn & Wound
Timex Launches “Timex Atelier” Sep 25, 2025

Timex Launches “Timex Atelier” with the New Marine M1a

Timex is continuing its experiment with higher-end horology with its latest release, the Timex Atelier Marine M1a, which the brand describes as a spiritual successor to the Giorgio Galli series and the first watch in the new Timex Atelier line. The Galli series garnered attention for being “luxury Timex,” with minimalist design, higher-grade cases - like the titanium Giorgio Galli S2Ti - and, biggest of all, that prestigious “Swiss-made” label. Timex says the Marine M1a is the “next chapter” in the brand’s history as it continues to build watches in Switzerland with higher-end materials and movements than typical Timex watches. In the case of the Marine M1a, that means a 41mm skeletonized stainless-steel case with an iron-plating coated midcase, a brushed-steel bracelet, a ceramic bezel, Superlominva-filled indices, and an enamel dial. The watch is powered by a Catena SA100 automatic movement finished with Geneva stripes and perlage that you can get an easy look at through the watch’s exhibition caseback. It’s a bit more conservative in design than the retro-minimalism of the Galli watches, and, in the words of Timex’s chief creative director, Giorgio Galli himself, was “not designed to impress at a glance,” but to “be discovered, slowly, over time.” There are many details to discover over time. A signed crown, silver-applied indices, a movement rotor engraved with “Timex Atelier.” But the watch isn’t just aesthetic-oriented - with a...

echo/neutra Introduces the Averau42 Collection, New Watches with a Hybrid Ceramic-Titanium Case Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2025

echo/neutra Introduces the Averau42 Collection, New Watches with a Hybrid Ceramic-Titanium Case

One of the real highlights of being involved in our Windup events year to year is getting to know brand owners and founders, and periodically getting a little peek at what’s to come. More and more often, brands come to our events not just with watches in their current catalog, but with early samples of watches they’re planning for the future to show prospective customers, members of the media, and the Worn & Wound team. I won’t lie: it’s a nice perk of being on the inside. A few months ago during the Chicago show, the team at echo/neutra pulled some really exciting stuff out of a bag that was not quite ready for prying eyes. The new Averau42 collection, which at launch consists of a pair of watches combining titanium and ceramic construction, is an exciting next step for a brand that we’ve been interested in for some time.  The heart of these watches is what echo/neutra calls the TiFrame construction. This is an idea we’ve seen a handful of times from other brands, usually bigger brands, in the recent past. These watches are made with an internal titanium case, or frame, that protects the movement and offers tensile strength that ceramic and other alternative materials lack. The outer layer is black ceramic, which provides a virtually scratch proof surface and a moody aesthetic vibe for these watches that fits in nicely with the design codes the brand has established over the past several years. This type of construction, in addition to making the most of the ...

Gérald Genta Strikes the Right Note with the Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps Sep 4, 2025

Gérald Genta Strikes the Right Note with the Minute Repeater

The reborn Gérald Genta has just unveils a simply-titled complicated watch, the Minute Repeater. Although a new design, the striking timepiece harks back to Gérald Genta’s golden age in the late 20th century, in both style and quality of execution. The case takes a clean, cushion-shaped form, while the dial is glossy black onyx. And inside ticks the GG-002, a hand-wind movement derived from the longstanding repeater movement made by Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the parent of Gérald Genta. Though not a limited edition, the yearly output will be limited to 10 pieces. Initial thoughts Big-name brand revivals are not always successful endeavours, since it is often difficult for new patrons to recapture the spirit and style of the original, while also making it financially viable. Gérald Genta is clearly an exception. It was relaunched in 2023 by Louis Vuitton, allowing it to lean more towards genuine quality rather than a flash in the pan.  The Minute Repeater is a welcome and original addition to the brand’s collection, embodying the late Genta’s instinctive design flair and aesthetic sensibilities, while being a new(ish) design. An especially pleasant surprise is the original case shape that certainly looks very Gérald Genta, but wasn’t previously in the catalogue, though Genta did pen similar cases in the past. In other words, this is not a remake. The shape sits between an ellipse and a rounded rectangle, capturing the gist of the 1970s design we...

Fratello’s Top 5 Brands To Look Out For During Geneva Watch Days 2025 Fratello
Aug 29, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Brands To Look Out For During Geneva Watch Days 2025

Another Friday, another list! This time, we’re focusing on the brands that will be present at Geneva Watch Days 2025 next week. The event grows every year, and we have seen an increase in the number of participating brands. It’s a mixed bag of small and big ones that are active at every price level, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Brands To Look Out For During Geneva Watch Days 2025 to read the full article.

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” Aug 29, 2025

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh”

With a swivelling case and unadorned back, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has long served as a canvas for miniature enamelling (or double-faced complications). The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” is a fine example of the art, which is almost synonymous with Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), one of the first brands to set up an in-house enamel workshop. Originally invented as a watch for polo players – the reversible case is meant to protect the crystal – the Reverso goes back to the historical origins of the game with this set. The quartet is inspired by scenes from Shahnameh, an epic poem written one thousand years ago that recounts the origins of the Persian Empire, and also depicts the ancient game invented by Persians that is today known as polo. Specifically, the four watches reproduce illustrations from the Shahnameh commissioned by Shah Tahmasp, the second ruler of the Safavid dynasty, in the early 16th century. The four piece set comprised of (from left) ‘Siyavush Plays Polo before Afrasiyab’; ‘Faridun Tests His Sons’; ‘Saam Comes to Mount Alburz’; and ‘Rustam Pursues Akvan’. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre Initial thoughts JLC has long reproduced historical art on the Reverso – including Monet’s Venice series of paintings last year – but the artwork was often Western or East Asian, perhaps reflecting the watchmaker’s biggest markets. The “Shahnameh” set, on the other hand, reproduces scenes from a piece of art that might be less well known in...

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green SJX Watches
Bulgari may have edged it Aug 28, 2025

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program. The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples. Initial Thoughts Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person. The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle. Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant. To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Person...

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar SJX Watches
Patek Philippe alumni who caught his Aug 1, 2025

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

Roger Dubuis is celebrating 30 years by looking back on its days as a trend-setting independent. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar deftly balances the spirit of Genevan watchmaking from the brand’s early years in the 1990s with the boisterous designs of the 2000s in a manageable size, but less manageable price. While the style is reminiscent of the oversized Excalibur models that were far from ergonomic, the Biretrograde Calendar has been redesigned for wearability. The retrograde calendar mechanism on the front is an in-house construction, built on top of the brand’s own automatic movement that is unexpectedly sophisticated and classical. Initial Thoughts Roger Dubuis is a marque built on calendars, so the new Excalibur has historical resonance. The late Roger Dubuis was a Patek Philippe alumni who caught his big break working with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who would go on to found Agenhor, on a double retrograde perpetual calendar developed for New York jeweller Harry Winston. It was during the project that Dubuis met his future business partner, Carlos Dias, an entrepreneur who would help establish the Roger Dubuis brand and transform it into a hit maker in the 2000s. The same double retrograde perpetual calendar mechanism would accompany the first Roger Dubuis model the brand’s debut in 1995. And the retrograde calendar also has a historical connection to Geneva, as a local watchmaker named Marius LeCoultre created the most prolific retrograde perpetual design of ...

Hands-On: the Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Casio nally it also applies Jul 21, 2025

Hands-On: the Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph

I’ve reached the age where I regularly feel the temptation to say things along the lines of “back in the day…” This applies to various things, such as life without smartphones, dial-up modems, and Napster, among others, but occasionally, it also applies to watches. You see, it wasn’t that long ago that things were quite different. Dive watches were all north of 40mm, in-house movements were rare under $5k, microbrands were dismissed as a passing trend, and, most relevantly to this review, mechanical chronographs under a certain price were primarily powered by Valjoux 7750s or a close variant. With sub-dials at 12, 6, and 9, day-dates at three, two-pushers, cam-actuated, and always automatic, approachably priced mechanical chronographs were limited in their design options. Even 3, 6, 9 layouts were rare, powered by 7753s or ETA 2894s, and often limited to Swatch group brands. The point is that in 2025, it’s almost hard to imagine a world of such limited chronograph options. Today, thanks largely to Sellitta, 3, 9, and 3, 6, 9 layouts are typical (I actually miss 12, 6, 9 now), monopushers are no big deal, manual winding is an option, flybacks, GMTs, and even column-wheels are on the table. Simply put, it’s a good time to be a chronograph fan. Yet, even in this golden-age of chronographs (ok, that might be a stretch), there is room to stand out. Enter Albishorn, which launched in 2024 with a series of chronographs powered by a bespoke movement, based on a fun r...

Watch Scrolling: Great Photography, Hot Takes, and Some Watch Related Art Worn & Wound
Citizen Aqualand but as Jul 17, 2025

Watch Scrolling: Great Photography, Hot Takes, and Some Watch Related Art

It’s been a minute, but Watch Scrolling, our occasional series where we highlight watch and gear related Instagram accounts we think are worth visiting, is back. Now more than ever, as the algorithm increasingly wants to show us things we might not actually want to see, it’s important to highlight the collectors, enthusiasts, and creators that are really worth a follow. We’ll try to bring you a ton of variety in Watch Scrolling, both big accounts with lots of followers you might be missing, and newer, smaller accounts that are still pretty niche.  We’d love to hear your suggestions for Instagram accounts to feature in this series. Drop them in the comments below, or head over to our Worn & Wound+ Slack channel and join the conversation there.  @justin_sowders_art  Justin recently made his Worn & Wound podcast debut at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago. He was there to talk about the Citizen Aqualand, but as an artist he’s inspired by a variety of watches, and his IG is definitely worth a follow if you’re at all interested in seeing where abstract art and watches meet. His oil paintings of watches are incredibly evocative and have a very real sense of physical depth. They’re colorful, complex, and will almost certainly make you think of the visual impact of a watch in a new light.  @watchopinions Historically, I’ve been a bit allergic to anonymous bomb throwers on the internet. I love a hot-take and think people should proudly stand behind them! But there...

The Windup Watch Fair 10-Year Celebration Rolls Into Chicago - Here’s What to See and Do This Weekend Worn & Wound
Tudor DOXA Celeste Jul 8, 2025

The Windup Watch Fair 10-Year Celebration Rolls Into Chicago - Here’s What to See and Do This Weekend

The Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the Windy City for what promises to be our biggest and boldest Chicago event yet-and this time, we’re celebrating a major milestone: 10 years of Windup. From July 11–13, Windup returns to Venue West for three full days of hands-on watch experiences, exclusive launches, engaging panels, and some unexpected surprises. This year’s show features over 40 exhibiting brands, including exciting first-time participants like Tudor, DOXA, Celeste, and Watch Craft. There will also be raffles, giveaways, a Scotch tasting bar, and much more. The event is completely free and open to the public, so whether you’re a seasoned collector, a curious newcomer, or somewhere in between, there’s a place for you at Windup. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 11 – Sunday, July 13, 2024 Venue West 221 N Paulina St Chicago, IL 60612 Free and open to the public. Thanks to Our Lead Sponsors We’re thrilled to welcome back our Lead Sponsors, each bringing something exciting to the table-some quite literally. Atelier Wen returns with the Perception, a stunning example of East-meets-West horology. The watch’s intricate guilloché dial, crafted by hand in China, is a modern feat of mechanical art. Casio is showing off their G-SHOCK MTGB4000, a robust, high-tech statement piece loaded with both analog soul and digital brains. Even more exciting? We have it on good authority that Casio will be launching something completely new on day one of the ...

Fratello On Air: The Biggest Myths And Misconceptions Of Watch Collecting Fratello
Jul 8, 2025

Fratello On Air: The Biggest Myths And Misconceptions Of Watch Collecting

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we aim to debunk some of the most prevalent myths surrounding our beloved watch-collecting hobby. Some will be obvious, but some require some discussion. Enjoy the show! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Misconceptions within […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Biggest Myths And Misconceptions Of Watch Collecting to read the full article.

New Release: Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain in Stainless Steel, the Final Edition Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain Jul 7, 2025

New Release: Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain in Stainless Steel, the Final Edition

Ian Skellern has been a Greubel Forsey fan boy since the brand launched back in 2004, but his appreciation for the brand’s beautifully executed complications was always purely platonic. It wasn't just the price, their watches were too big for him. The sub-40 mm Balancier Contemporain changed that and this blue stainless steel final edition looks sensational!

Tudor Pelagos FXD: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jul 1, 2025

Tudor Pelagos FXD: The Complete Guide

When Tudor released the Pelagos FXD in late 2021 an important element of the brand's heritage was brought to light with it. A rich history of working with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, was now being tied to a modern creation from Tudor in a new partnership. While the history brings an unusual depth to this watch (no pun intended), it’s the manner in which the Tudor Pelagos FXD has been executed that has made it truly interesting to a modern audience. This wasn’t a throwback design commemorating the past. Rather, this was a function-forward, modern design, built to spec for a niche group of divers in the French Navy. The FXD is a natural evolution of the Pelagos ethos, and its slightly unconventional approach has cemented its place in the hearts of many enthusiasts.  Tudor took a slightly different route with the FXD when compared to the existing Pelagos references. The watch was designed with input from the Marine Nationale’s Commando Hubert unit in order to better suit its combat divers' needs for a specific maneuver they employed while traversing underwater. This maneuver would have them swimming segments in a set direction for a set period of time, before adjusting time and direction to tackle subsequent sections. To better assist in this exercise, the fully indexed bezel is bidirectional, and counts down rather than tracks elapsed time. This allows for fast, precise movement (this is a 120-click bezel), and no ambiguity when measuring a pre-set lengt...

Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Yellow” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Yellow” Jun 30, 2025

Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Yellow”

Fabian “Spartacus” Cancellara is a Swiss cycling legend who not only won multiple world and Olympic championships but also wore the Tour de France’s yellow leader’s jersey for 29 days and won eight stages. The last time Cancellara raced in France was in 2016, and this year, he returns to the biggest bike race in […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Yellow” to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, and Gear:  Pro Tripods, Teenage Engineering’s Scooter, and MB&F;’s Corvette Worn & Wound
MB&F; ’s Corvette Peak Design Jun 28, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Pro Tripods, Teenage Engineering’s Scooter, and MB&F;’s Corvette

Peak Design Launches the New Pro Tripod Line     If you ask Peak Design, six years ago they re-imagined what a tripod could be with their Travel Tripod. Designed to be lightweight, compact, and most importantly, useful, the tripod took the market by storm, becoming the “go to” option for many photographers. Taking what they learned from this first release, along with some input from Jimmy Chin (Oscar-winner, outdoor fanatic, and talented storyteller), they’re back with a brand new collection, the Pro Tripod. Featuring similar design language to the original travel tripod, this new line allows customers to choose between portability (Pro Lite) and rigidity (Pro Tall) for the ideal addition to their kit. Each of the three models features a newly designed ball head with a “quicker and stronger camera attachment”, fluid panning, and a single adjustment ring that locks (and unlocks) the ball head. Additionally, Peak Design has re-engineered their leg locks to allow for faster setup and tear down. With over $2.8 million dollars pledged and 3,000 plus backers at the time of writing, it’s clear that people are excited about this new line of tripods. You can check out the new series of tripods in each of the Peak Design stores or on their kickstarter page, here. Denis Villeneuve Tapped for the Next Bond Film There was some big news in the world of James Bond this week. While the world waits to see who will be tapped to play the superspy following Daniel Craig’s run,...

Cartier Crash Alternatives For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Jun 27, 2025

Cartier Crash Alternatives For Every Budget

We’re back at it again with another "alternatives" roundup for some of the most iconic watches in watchmaking history, and in this episode, we’re getting more quirky than we ever have before. Which is only fitting given today’s subject, which is one of the most subversive watch designs of all time: the illustrious Cartier Crash.  Before I launch into some quick Cartier Crash history and then contemporary alternatives at multiple budgets, let’s establish some key design ingredients in the recipe at hand. Because I didn’t want to make you all eat up some AliExpress Cartier Crash phonies, and because the design is so iconic that most watchmakers haven’t really attempted their own imitations, I will be leaning into asymmetry or hints at surrealism here instead of more 1:1 design alternatives. Before I begin, I will say that the avant-garde era of the 1960s and '70s, before the big houses had such rigid design codes, is one of my favorites in watchmaking history. Here in the modern age, many brands seem less willing to experiment boldly, and really keep things, largely, safe. Still, there are some asymmetrical watch gems out there, and below, they will get a little time in the spotlight. I will warn you now that on the current market, prices for more bold watch designs run a little steep, so the budget I’m working around here is at a higher price point than I try to stick to (though I have thrown in some affordable options). But given the exorbitant prices of the...

A Very Moser Smartwatch at the Canadian Grand Prix Worn & Wound
H. Moser fits Jun 26, 2025

A Very Moser Smartwatch at the Canadian Grand Prix

If I’m being honest, I have to admit that I was a strange choice to attend this press trip to the Canada GP in Montreal. At least on paper. I could be excommunicated from the watch world for what I’m about to say, but I have to speak my truth: I just don’t really care all that much about cars.  I own a car, for sure. And I drive it on an almost daily basis. But the fact is, because I live in a very walkable neighborhood in my city, I find myself getting annoyed when I’m forced to drive somewhere. Driving is a huge pain, after all, mostly because you have to deal with other drivers, but also because cars are pretty annoying. Mine, like its driver, is getting older. And these days when I start it up I often discover some new ailment that will force me to part with money likely earmarked for the Watch Fund, just to keep it up to the standards of the State of New Hampshire.  Anyway, this is a long winded way of saying I didn’t come into this experience a big F1 fan, because watching other people drive always seemed fundamentally like something I wouldn’t be all that interested in. And I’ll save you the suspense here: I didn’t come out of this experience as an F1 convert, ready to binge watch every season of “Drive to Survive.” But I did come away from it with a much better appreciation for the complexity of the sport, and I can certainly see how and why so many seem to be obsessed with it. And it also became clear to me how H. Moser fits in here. In fact,...

Bulova Devil Diver Review Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Jun 3, 2025

Bulova Devil Diver Review

The Bulova Devil Diver (formally known as the Bulova Oceanographer) first debuted back in the 1960s, when it went on to become something of a cult classic. It wasn’t a record-breaking dive watch worn by the world’s most accomplished that-and-that, it just had a striking design, and there was something edgy and subversive about that “666ft” on the dial. Of course, that number has to do with its water resistance and nothing sinister, but the Devil Diver moniker is really catchy and has stuck. Back in 2018, Bulova reissued the Oceanographer, but at 44mm wide it was just not what a lot of people were clamoring for. A few years later, in 2021, came this 41mm wide version that is much truer to the original. Four years later, the affordable dive watch market has gotten more competitive but the Bulova Devil Diver still holds its own, so let’s take a look at what makes this orange-dial diver feel like a slice of heaven for well under $1,000. Bulova Devil Diver Case: When the Bulova Devil Diver was first reintroduced back in 2018, there were quite a few gripes we all heard about the 44mm case being just way too big and not true to the original. Fortunately, the 2021 iteration brought the case back to the 41mm size of the original, a decision that won over the hearts of some jilted purists. To be fair, you do not have to be a vintage purist to see why a 41mm case will always be preferable to 44mm to a vast majority of contemporary buyers. Of course, the ~202 meters of water...

Hands-On With Three Striking Rado Anatom Models With High-Tech Ceramic Bracelets Fratello
Rado Anatom Models May 29, 2025

Hands-On With Three Striking Rado Anatom Models With High-Tech Ceramic Bracelets

When Rado announced the comeback of the Anatom series, it brought back many memories. I vividly remember that my mother was a big fan of the black ceramic Rado watches in the 1990s. So while I was checking out the promo materials of Pete Sampras and his Movado Museum Watch back then, my mother was […] Visit Hands-On With Three Striking Rado Anatom Models With High-Tech Ceramic Bracelets to read the full article.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Teddy Baldassarre
Longines May 22, 2025

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

Longines introduced the Zulu Time models to its aviation-influenced Spirit collection in 2022, and the watch’s dual-time complication, stylishly bold design, and undeniable value proposition have made it one of the brand’s biggest hits of the 2020s, spawning additional models in an array of sizes, materials, and color executions. The Spirit Zulu Time is now such a fixture in the Longines portfolio that it almost seems like it has always been there, despite being a relatively recent addition to the lineup; it doesn’t even precede the Covid pandemic, which, of course, somehow  seems like it happened only yesterday and yet also in another time and dimension entirely. However, all of that said, Longines’ history of making dual-time or GMT wristwatches like the Zulu Time reaches back much further - 100 years, to be exact. And it is that century milestone to which Longines pays tribute with the latest member of the family, unveiled today: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925.  Longines Zulu Time History: Longines produced its first “Zulu Time” wristwatch in that eponymous year of 1925, in the heart of the Art Deco era. Very dissimilar to the round-cased modern descendant, that watch had an angular, square case and ornate hour numerals, along with a third hand to indicate a second time zone and, most notably, a Zulu flag emblem with a red letter “Z.” Where did this iconography originate? In military jargon, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for t...

Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025 SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari May 14, 2025

Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025

Despite everything, including tariffs and a strong Swiss franc, the Geneva auction season turned out to be a strong one, with some of the strongest results being in the most surprising segments. The bigger winner this season was Phillips, which sold a bit under 200 lots for CHF43.4 million including fees, while also claiming the most valuable lots for the season, reflecting Phillips’ strong leadership and team. Despite being the market leader by some margin, the Phillips catalogue was arguably the riskiest as it included several high-value pocket watches and clocks – timepieces that not part of mainstream collecting today. Yet the gamble paid off with the most valuable timepiece this season being its Breguet Sympathique no. 1 that sold for CHF5.51 million. Christie’s achieved CHF21.2 million with a similar number of lots that were arguably more conventional in taste and format than at Phillips. One of its most valuable lots was a Cartier Crash “NSO” with a special order dial that sold for CHF736,000 – one of the biggest surprises of the season but proof that being eye-catching enough for social media is a big factor in desirability and value today. Interestingly, the Crash sold for exactly the same as the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari. The Crash went for about 15 times the original retail, while the RM UP-01 was about half of retail. The Crash NSO “nickele” grey. Image – Christie’s Over at Antiquorum, the tally was CHF10 million – from almost 800 lot...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Pateks Zeniths Apr 27, 2025

A Week in Watches Ep. 102 – The Indies of April

Watches & Wonders may have wrapped a few weeks ago, flooding everyone’s feeds with Tudors, Rolexes, Grand Seikos, Pateks, Zeniths, and more than a few Hublots-but we’re not diving into any of that today. Instead, on episode 102 of A Week in Watches, we take a step back from the hype and turn our attention to the quieter-but no less exciting-independent releases that emerged around the same time. April was surprisingly packed with creative drops from small brands doing things their own way, and while the big names stole the headlines, the indies delivered some of the most interesting watches of the month. Before diving into a few standout releases-yes, including that particularly “crazy” one-here’s a quick heads-up: Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 is just around the corner. It’s happening May 2nd through 4th at the Gateway Pavilion in Fort Mason Park. Over 80 brands will be there, it’s free, and it’s open to all. If you’re on the West Coast, swing by. Full details and the exhibitor list are up now at windupwatchfair.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 102 – The Indies of April appeared first on Worn & Wound.

G-SHOCK Helps Casio Ring in their 50th Year in Watches with the GMC-B2100ZE Worn & Wound
Casio Ring Apr 22, 2025

G-SHOCK Helps Casio Ring in their 50th Year in Watches with the GMC-B2100ZE

One of the only bad things that came out of me getting rid of my Facebook account was that I have no idea when anyone’s birthdays are anymore. Now, I have just two options. I either have to awkwardly ask my friend of seventeen years if she’s the 15th or the 19th of June (only to be told it’s December 7th) or I cut them out of my life completely, not being able to face that embarrassment. The same goes for anniversaries. I only remember my parents’ anniversary because they honeymooned at Dollywood and I think that’s something worth remembering. And I’ve cheated a little to remember my own anniversary as it’s a bit mneumonical: my husband and I began dating on January 1 and we got married on November 11. I’m surely going to be in big trouble with my second husband. All the good dates have been taken. What I really need, I think, to remember an anniversary is a watch to commemorate it (or, at the very least, a press release sent to a bunch of journalists to write about). That is, in fact, what Casio did for their 50th anniversary in watchmaking with a new G-SHOCK earlier this month, a black and gold all-metal version of their GMC-B2100 series. Like others in the B2100 collection, the anniversary edition has the now-iconic octagonal shape, but rendered in stainless steel. Coming in a black and gold motif, one may think this colorway is a nod to my own Pittsburgh heritage; but you’d be mistaken. According to Casio, this particular color combination represents ...

First Impressions of the Zenith G.F.J. Worn & Wound
Zenith G.F.J Apr 17, 2025

First Impressions of the Zenith G.F.J.

A few months back I was given an opportunity to get a little preview of Zenith’s Watches & Wonders novelties in New York. More and more brands do this every year – it’s a great help to those of us in the media charged with photographing and writing about dozens upon dozens of new releases that all appear in the span of a few hours on an April morning in Geneva. So photographer Garrett Jones and I made our way to meet with our Zenith press contacts in midtown Manhattan, not knowing for sure what we’d see. In short order, the bright blue ceramic “Chronograph Trilogy” anniversary models were unveiled. In discussing the watches I casually mentioned that these would probably be a big hit at Watches & Wonders, and I must have inferred that these three watches would be this year’s halo pieces for the brand. I was quickly corrected, and told that there was something else coming that Zenith was holding back – the first watch in an entirely new collection – that would be a big surprise as we got closer to its release. I didn’t even try to elicit a hint about what it might be – I was happy to be surprised.  Eventually the press release for the new G.F.J. hit my inbox, and I was indeed surprised. While Zenith, as a brand, has always been quite chronometry forward, I had gotten into the habit of thinking of them as a sports watch brand. Yes, the movements are very good, but lots of brands have very good movements. I admit that the yearslong focus on building out ...

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts Apr 8, 2025

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...

eBay Finds: A Selection of Affordable Seikos, Plus a Killer Bulova Worn & Wound
Bulova eBay Finds Mar 28, 2025

eBay Finds: A Selection of Affordable Seikos, Plus a Killer Bulova

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Seiko UFO 6138-0011 Welcome to the “mostly Seiko eBay Finds”. Like most things in this world, good watch auctions can come in groups, such as this week! I wasn’t particularly looking for Seikos, but I found several for your bidding pleasure. First up is this vintage 1971 Seiko “UFO” 6138-0011 chronograph. This is a unique Seiko chronograph, and one that is easy to recognize with its big round case (hence the UFO moniker). The black dial is nice and clean and looks great with the up/down big eye look with the larger 6 o’clock subdial. The pushers on this model are also unique, with piston-like engraved grooves. This watch would’ve originally come on a Seiko bracelet, but the rally style strap it’s on works well. Overall the watch is in good shape, with an unpolished case and clean dial, hands and bezel. Runs well per the seller but no movement picture. View auction here Seiko 5 Sports 7019-7050  The next Seiko up is this nice vintage 1972 Seiko 5 Sports 7019-7050. This is a great looking sport watch, with a large, 39mm wide round-ish steel case that has a wide beveled bezel. It almost looks like a diver, but it has no diver’s bezel, external or internal. The di...

Business News: Jean-Marc Pontroué Departs Panerai, Emmanuel Perrin Takes Over SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Mar 18, 2025

Business News: Jean-Marc Pontroué Departs Panerai, Emmanuel Perrin Takes Over

Panerai chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué has just revealed he’s stepping down in a post on his personal Instagram account. He took up the job almost exactly seven years ago, after six years as chief executive of Roger Dubuis and over a decade at Montblanc, where most notably he led the brand’s high-end watchmaking efforts (that were dialled back under subsequent managers). Mr Pontroué’s successor, effective April 1, will be Emmanuel Perrin, currently head of Specialist Watchmakers (SWM), essentially the watch division of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that also owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. According to insiders, SWM will continue to exist, but at a regional level, rather than the group-level entity it is now. Emmanuel Perrin Mr Pontroué landed at Panerai with big shoes to fill: his predecessor, Angelo Bonati, led the brand for over two decades, taking it from essentially nothing to one of the hottest brands in the 2000s. Panerai’s impressive momentum had begun to slow towards the end of Mr Bonati’s tenure, and despite his best efforts Mr Pontroué never managed to recapture the magic. Amongst the initiatives launched by Mr Pontroué at Panerai was sustainability in watchmaking materials and packaging, as well as a renewed engagement with Paneristi, the community of dedicated Panerai fans – underlined by historically inspired new launches coming in 2024. The brand’s direction will now be determined by Mr Perrin. During his spell leading SWM, Mr...