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Monochrome
At just 45 grams in weight, strap included, the Wild ONE Skeleton X-Lite is Norqain’s most advanced sports watch to date. It weighs next to nothing, but it is also built to withstand a proverbial beating if needed. The Norteq case, as well as the movement’s construction, are designed to withstand impacts of at least […]
Monochrome
Glashütte Original’s Senator collection is largely defined by classic German watchmaking conventions and the brand’s signature Panorama Date. However, the manufacture has also used the Senator to showcase its more artistic side, with hand-painted Meissen porcelain dials. Joining the brand’s Atelier commissions is a new time-only duo of Senator models in precious metal cases with […]
Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato collection in 1975 to meet the growing demand for integrated-style sports watches. Debuting just three years after the 1972 blueprint for the genre, it remains one of the earliest examples of a luxury sports watch. Following the classic time-and-date Laureato Fifty released to celebrate the watch’s 50th anniversary in 2025, Girard-Perregaux […]
Fratello
A few weeks ago, this vintage Rolex Submariner Date ref. 1680 landed on my desk. The owner, a low-profile but dedicated Rolex collector, came across it several years ago during one of his hunts. A prime example of provenance, this watch has quite an intriguing backstory. Rolex Submariner Date ref. 1680 This Rolex Submariner Date […] Visit This Rolex Submariner 1680 Belonged To An Oscar-Winning Hollywood Sound Engineer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Monaco Legend Auctions is closing the year with one of its biggest auctions to date, with one of the top lots being a stellar Rolex ref. 6062 Oyster triple calendar in steel with gold-tone indices. An eighty year-old watch that feels original and honest, this ref. 6062 is only on its second owner in all that time, adding to its appeal. Already a rare watch in itself, this specific ref. 6062 stands out for its condition. It appears to have been worn carefully over the decades, while also having avoided being facelifted or enhanced. And of course this is an Oyster, meaning the case is water resistant, which no doubtlessly helped to preserve the dial. As a result, this ref. 6062 possesses its original details, including the shallow engraving on the case back and twin textures on the dial. Initial thoughts Though overshadowed by sports watches in the last decade, the triple calendar has long been one of the most desirable vintage Rolex models. And Rolex recently revived the concept with the Perpetual Padellone, which, despite the name, actually inspired by the ref. 6062 Oyster rather than the ref. 8171 “Padellone”. The ref. 6062 coming up in Monaco Legend’s auction at month’s end is one of the best examples to hit the block in some time. It’s in steel, which makes it more valuable than the equivalent gold model. And this has known, traceable provenance – just two owners in some 80 years – and as a result of that, the condition is original, crisp, and appealing....
WatchAdvice
Has Rado hit it for six with the new Captain Cook x Cameron Green limited edition? We find out in this review! What We Love The green gradient dial gives the watch plenty of character The 42mm case wears well, and seems smaller than the specs suggest The cricket-inspired details bring the watch to life really well What We Don’t A colour-matched date window would have looked better, although it would have been tricky Swapping straps can be a little fiddly at first, especially the rubber While the bracelet adds versatility, there is no micro-adjustment or quick adjustment at all on the clasp Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 By now, most people will be familiar with the Rado Captain Cook. First introduced in 1962, the Captain Cook was Rado’s take on the dive watch, with a design that included a rotating bezel and the brand’s now-famous moving anchor logo on the dial. The original models were produced between 1962 and 1968, before Rado brought the collection back in 2017 with a modern interpretation that stayed true to the original 37mm design. In 2019, the collection expanded with 42mm models, followed by versions in different materials, including bronze and Rado’s high-tech ceramic. If you’re interested in the Captain Cook’s journey, the article below may be of interest. A Deep Dive Into The Rado Captain Cook & The Materials That Helped Chart Its Path More recently, we saw the introduction of t...
Worn & Wound
Breitling fills a big hole in their Navitimer collection today with the release of a pair of watches that feel like concerted efforts at engaging the watch enthusiast community. The new Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 and the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute are not limited editions, but part of the brand’s core collection, their presence there will surely please a wide swath of longtime Breitling fans, particularly those interested in vintage Breitling, and classic chronographs more generally. It’s somewhat hard to believe, but until today, Breitling did not have a manually wound Navitimer in their permanent collection. The hand wound B09 movement used in the Navitimer has been used in a handful of limited and special releases in the past, but it feels like the brand is really plugging a gap here with a manually wound version of what is arguably their most iconic watch. According to Breitling, this new version of the Navitimer is inspired by versions of the watch worn in the 1960s by race car drivers Jim Clark and Graham Hill, who were also pilots and would have been able to make use of the Navitimer’s slide rule bezel in flight. This is a watch that, at least in a contemporary context, straddles the line between the automotive and pilot watch worlds, and has been embraced by both cultures (which admittedly overlap a fair amount). The Navitimer B09’s case measures 41mm in diameter and is available with either a black or blue dial with white subdials, a c...
Monochrome
Most high-end perpetual calendars are fragile creatures composed of hundreds of components, delicate levers and springs. The problem with many is that they are susceptible to damage, especially if the crown or pushers are manipulated during the watch’s date-change cycle. Master watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin tackled the problem with the Perpetual Ludwig, developed for Ulysse Nardin […]
Monochrome
Yema’s Millésime series represents the most elaborate example of its watchmaking ambitions, offering French manufacturing and complications rarely encountered at this price level, in limited production series. Following last year’s Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31, the brand introduces a very different creation for 2026, potentially its most ambitious to date: the Spacegraf Heure Sidérale Tourbillon Volant. […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Earlier this year at Watches and Wonders, Belgian brand Ressence introduced the first watch in its collection with an in-house-designed RW-01 movement, the Type 11. That should theoretically mean a farewell (at least for most things going forward) to the base ETA movements that have powered all Ressence models to date, each paired with the brand's unique orbital Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) module. Today's release of the Type 10, timed right alongside WatchTime New York, features the first oil-filled watch from Ressence to feature a proprietary movement. At a high level, the Type 10 might initially feel like a mix of several previous Ressence designs, but the final product somehow feels quite fresh. Much of it is due to the case and bezel. The silhouette of the 41.5mm case in grade 5 titanium gives this Type 10 a cushion-like shape, and it is paired with a flush-integrated rubber strap. It's a new feel for a Ressence. The entire case is coated for a glossy, dark blue hue, and that coloring extends all the way to the strap, buckle, and, of course, the dial. Ressence says this is a DLC coating, but to my knowledge, it's not possible to achieve a colored coating with the specific process—I believe this coating to be something different. If I had to guess, I'd say that it's a ceramic coating of some sort. There is ever-so-slightly a squared-off aspect to the design, with the bezel at twelve and six o'clock flattening out on its edge for a look that comp...
Monochrome
Oris is busy refining its core collections, and last year it updated the ProPilot Date series. Now, the Hölstein-based brand applies the same touches to the ProPilot Calibre 111, one of its distinctive models. First introduced in the mid-2010s, this watch stands apart from the more accessible ProPilot Date series with its manually wound manufacture […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Oris is going through its catalog and doing some subtle and meaningful updates to the ProPilot lineup. On the heels of a ProPilot Date update last year, the higher-tier ProPilot Calibre 111 is getting similar tweaks that take a very solid watch and make it a bit more refined. In fact, if you compare it to the old, outgoing 44mm version, the refreshed look really does stand out despite the relative subtlety. The new stainless steel case is slimmed down and sharpened up, down from 44mm to 43mm and down from around 14mm (actually 13.85mm) to 13.2mm; there are improvements in sizing, which is impressive for a watch with a 10-day power reserve. The date window has been moved to the 6 o'clock position for better balance, and the new finishing for the black or pine green dial combines a main vertically brushed surface with a textured, pebbled graining in the subdials and minute track. The Calibre 111 movement is visible through the display caseback, while the watch maintains a 100m water resistance all the same. You can see that massive barrel required for the 240-hour power reserve and what looks to be a nice level of finishing for the price point. The angled fluting on the bezel carries over to the caseback ring as well, which adds a balanced touch. And while you can still get the watch on a choice of leather strap or stainless steel bracelet, the 'LIFT' clasp and seamless fit strap adjustment system make either choice a solid one. Since this is more of a powerhous...
Monochrome
Hermès introduced the H08 collection in 2021 as a different take on the sporty-chic watch, first launched as a time-and-date series, then updated with a monopusher chronograph and, more recently, a skeleton model. The H08 stands out for its rounded square case, original Arabic numerals on the dial, and a mix of surfaces and materials […]
Monochrome
Picture a steel Rolex Submariner, sold in the summer of 1968 by a family jeweller in a small European town. The salesperson writes the shop’s name and the date on the papers, slips the receipt into the box, and hands it over. In 1985, a watchmaker replaces the worn bezel during a service and notes […]
Fratello
The Clifton 10870 and 10872 with ice-blue dials are two new limited editions in Baume & Mercier’s collection. The 39mm three-hand automatic features a date at 6 o’clock, and the 40mm perpetual calendar adds day, month, leap-year cycle, and moonphase indicators. Both creations use the five-day Baumatic movement and feature a light blue dial with […] Visit Do The Baume & Mercier Clifton 10870 And Perpetual Calendar 10872 Break The Ice? to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
I take the new Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee hands-on to see how the bi-compax anniversary edition compares with the existing Tri-Compax Chronograph! What We Love: Bi-compax layout gives the signature Millésime sector dial more room to shine The model retains the exceptional wearability of the Millésime chronographs Carries defining traits of “The Fifty” into a more accessible format What We Don’t: No date display for those who may prefer the added practicality No steel bracelet option! 12.9mm thickness may be substantial for those who prefer slimmer chronograph proportions. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Raymond Weil, like many other watchmakers, went through some turbulent times during the COVID-19 era. However, as is often the case, periods of adversity can inspire some of the most creative and important work. This was certainly the case with Raymond Weil, as it was during this period that the Millésime collection was born. While the collection was introduced in 2023, its development and design began a few years earlier. The brand wanted to create a new expression of its watchmaking identity, bringing together its history with accessible contemporary watchmaking. The word “Millésime” literally translates to “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, directly reflecting the collection’s inspiration from watches produced between the 1930s and 1960s. View this post on Instagram A pos...
Worn & Wound
Wren, the microbrand founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, has just unveiled the Vessel, a sharp left turn from the brand’s well received dive watches, and easily their most ambitious watch to date. Craig has been teasing the Vessel for at least the last year, and if you’ve seen him at the Wren booth at recent Windup events and other shows, or just around NYC watch events, it’s possible you’ve seen him wearing prototypes of the Vessel or discreetly showing it off alongside his dive watches. It’s been a long road, and the lengthy run up to the release reflects the complexity of the project compared to the Diver One. I remember the first time Craig showed me a render of what would become the Vessel, it was hard for me to wrap my head around the idea that this would be the next model from his still new brand. It seemed like a watch going in a completely different direction. The Vessel is an avant-garde integrated bracelet sports watch, built around a contemporary feeling tonneau case shape with a design by Max Resnick, who has worked with Traska, Anoma, and others. The case has an architectural look defined by sharp angles, and is crafted from 904L steel. It measures 39mm by 39mm and is 10.6mm thick. There’s a pretty dramatic taper from the widest part of the case (it’s middle section) and where the lugs meet the bracelet. While the integrated bracelet sports watch has been done to death at this point by just about any brand you can name, the Vessel ...
Monochrome
Frederique Constant has released the 2026 edition of The Elements Collection, an annual collector’s box set comprising three timepieces, each distinguished by a rare mineral dial. Presented in steel cases from the Classic collection and powered by manufacture movements, the Moonphase Date with a black onyx dial, the Tourbillon with a heliotrope dial, and the […]
SJX Watches
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond and Spectre collection pairs familiar no-date divers with competing character motifs, including platinum-gold variants in two limited edition boxed sets. The watches extend Omega’s most successful screen partnership while leaving the underlying Seamaster largely unchanged. Initial thoughts Omega’s partnership with James Bond remains one of the great marketing coups of the 1990s, pulled off by none other than Jean-Claude Biver. While it’s easy to feel cynical about product placement, especially today, the pairing made a lot of sense for film franchise looking for a fresh start with a new leading man. Today, the film franchise is at a turning point — Daniel Craig’s successor has not yet been announced, and it’s an open question whether the character’s appeal will extend to younger demographics. Despite these headwinds, the James Bond effect is no doubt a positive one for Omega, which has released dueling Seamasters — one for the titular character and one for his recurring nemesis, Spectre. The “James Bond” variant There’s also a pair of boxed sets — one for the hero, another for the villain — that include 77-piece limited edition variants of both the steel Seamasters and heavyweight versions in platinum-gold, which is mostly platinum with a bit of gold added to the alloy. The platinum-gold models weigh in at more than 200 g, nearly double the weight of the stainless steel equivalent on a strap. The “Spectr...
WatchRider
In 2026, twelve years after Interstellar hit cinemas in 2014, I still think it is a masterpiece and probably the greatest film about time travel ever made. The film’s protagonist, Cooper, wears a Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Auto (H64615135), which I had to have as a huge Christopher Nolan fan. Inception had already led me to the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 I reviewed earlier. But why the Coop and not the Murph? The answer is simple: I had an offer I couldn’t refuse back in 2021. The Murph is still on my list and I’ll get one if a similar offer comes along. The 42mm Case: Dimensions and Fit on My Wrist My wrist measures 7.5 inches now, down from 8 inches before my recent weight loss. I had removed one link from the bracelet at 8 inches and have now removed a second. Even on my smaller wrist, the Cooper sits perfectly and looks right to me. The 42 mm Coop on my wrist (7.5 inch) with its original bracelet. With a digital caliper I measured the case at 42 mm without the crown and 45.5 mm including it. The lug tips are 48.2 mm apart, while the span from one bracelet link to the other is 53.4 mm. That extra span across the bracelet is worth knowing when judging the fit from the 42 mm case diameter alone. I measured the watch’s height at 12.5 mm, slightly more than the official thickness of 11.85 mm listed by Hamilton. On my wife’s 6.5 inch wrist, the Cooper still looks good to me. It does not wear as large as the numbers might suggest, so I would tell someon...
Monochrome
Independent and deliberately small-scale, Brellum is known (and respected) for following a straightforward formula: strict quality controls, every movement is COSC-certified, and annual watch production is capped at 299 pieces. The brand’s Pandial chronograph series features a tachymeter bezel and telemeter scale, date indication and might be considered the brand’s sportier line. After the 2025 […]
Hodinkee
Backed by Breitling's House of Brands group, Gallet's return was hotly anticipated and closely scrutinized. Priced between $2,900 for a three-hand Flying Officer model with date and about $6,700 for the vintage-inspired 'Classics' models, replete with Breitling B09 hand-wound calibers, the revived brand's pricing at Breitling boutiques is certainly aggressive. Gallet's rebirth and price-category decision mark the most high-profile and ambitious attempt by the Swiss watch industry to reclaim a space it once owned but has largely ceded in recent years to so-called 'boutique' or micro-brands that have filled the gap left by traditional Swiss brands moving upscale.Over the past decade, brands have climbed the value-category ladder even higher, making fewer watches at higher prices. The so-called mid-tier premium—or luxury watches with an MSRP between $2,000 and $5,000—was once dominated by Swiss brands from Omega to Breitling to TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre. And while TAG Heuer still produces plenty of watches in the category, including the solar-powered quartz Formula 1, much of its development and marketing resources have been focused on new pricier versions of classic chronographs housed in titanium or other lightweight materials including the highly innovative, but eye-wateringly expensive, Monaco 'Evergraph' retailing at more than $28,000. Several of the new Gallet watches are available on a steel bracelet that is the same used on some Breitling models. Photo Cre...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year when Formex unveiled the Aria, which is unquestionably their most ambitious watch to date, with a price point to match, there was a lot of talk among enthusiasts about what a higher price point could signal. The fear that Formex could be leaving behind more affordable watches (even though, for what the Aria is, it’s quite affordable – but that’s a separate topic) was something we saw articulated all over the Watch Internet. Of course, there was never any real danger of Formex abandoning value oriented watches, and the release of the new AirField, built on their popular field watch format, proves that point. What we have here is fairly straightforward. The AirField borrows the titanium case architecture of the Formex Field, and adds a reconfigured dial and hand set with a more directly aviation inspired look. The design brief here seems to be immediate legibility and clarity, filtered through a Formex aesthetic in a way that feels similar to how the Formex Field took easy wearing utility in the same direction. The basic touch points of pilot watches that we all understand are very much present here: broad, sword shaped hands, matched with clean and easy to read Arabic numerals (filled with lume, of course). Formex has even included the traditional 12:00 triangle in this dial execution. The case measures 40mm in diameter and Formex says it weighs just 54 grams. It also has a surface treatment that the brand claims results in a surface hardness rat...
Time+Tide
When you need to know the day, date, month, and moon phase in one glance, these are the watches to reach for.
Hodinkee
Congrats on making it through another week, Baller, and your reward, sadly, is not more information about an extraordinary new Rolex, nor is it a pretty fantastic video with a legendary rapper, but instead just a quick roundup of some excellent watches out waiting for new owners. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Smiths DeLuxe sold for 6,000 GBP, the Smiths W10 for €1,400, the Gübelin 18k triple-date moonphase remains available, the Universal Genève FS went for 600 GBP, and the Autavias sells today. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. If you've been holding onto an old steel chronograph pusher cap and don't know the case it works with, maybe have a look at this Heuer chronograph (presumably ref. 2444) and consider the JLC Memovox in the same lot an added bonus. Speaking of Memovox (I'm not guessing the plural of that noun), this sure checks a few boxes should you find yourself in the market for a lovely vintage example. I covered a Hamilton Cross Country a few weeks back, and here's a similar example if that one managed to get its hooks in you. For the Beatles mega-fan in your life, this Old England Apple watch is unlikely to be something they've seen (it's also unlikely to sell for less than 3x the €200 high estimate). This Vacheron Constantin 2045 is just lovely; this Corum bears a shocking resemblance to David Bowie's 1979 SNL performance look, and if there's a cooler tropicalized Carrera up for auction this week than this one, I didn't see it. Omega Suverän You'r...
Deployant
It's been a hot minute since Glashütte Original released a 70s in a date and time configuration. Here's is our take on Glashütte's latest timepiece.
Monochrome
While Glashütte Original‘s Seventies collection has become associated with its bold, square-shaped chronographs, the German manufacture also once offered Seventies Panaroma Date models without the chronograph function. Revisiting the decade with a substantially reworked watch, the brand returns to that time-and-date simplicity and presents the new 70s collection of integrated sports watches, alongside the existing […]
Worn & Wound
Big news from Rolex today as the brand has released a complicated dress watch, their first in recent memory. The Perpetual Padellon is an instantaneous annual calendar with a moonphase complication and sits within the 1908 collection, which launched three years ago. This new watch appears to be a very explicit and direct homage to one of the brand’s most revered vintage references, the 8171 “Padellone”. It shares more than a few visual characteristics with that piece, and of course the name of the new watch is lifted straight from the nickname given to the vintage piece by collectors and dealers. The Perpetual Padellone is available in 18k Everose gold and 950 platinum, and measures 39mm in diameter, 12.2mm tall, and 45.1mm from lug to lug. It’s worth noting that the original 8171 was a fairly large watch for its day, measuring 38mm in diameter, so the new reference comes surprisingly close to being right on the money in terms of sizing if we’re comparing it to the vintage watch. The biggest difference between the 8171 and the Perpetual Padellone is likely mechanical. The 8171 was not a true annual or perpetual calendar, but a “simple” triple calendar, which was quite common in the 1950s. Each indicator simply advanced in sequence and not in relation to any other, which means a correction is going to be necessary virtually every month. The Perpetual Padellone is a true annual calendar and only needs to be corrected once per year. The case, whether plati...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand strips away the date and power reserve for a cleaner design built around a new F7542 automatic movement.
WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Söhne put their best foot forward at Watches & Wonders 2026, but does it hit all their exacting standards? Let’s find out! What We Love: A compact watch that makes its presence known Legible despite its size Highly complex & beautifully finished What We Don’t: Little negative space; a consequence of compaction Date corrector disrupts symmetry Would you request the price? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality:9.5/10 Of all the richness within German watchmaking, A. Lange & Söhne could be considered the most emblematic of the region. The veritable golden boy of German horology, it has often been cited as the mainstream leader in what best comprises the country’s ethos around mechanics and craftsmanship. Depending on who you ask, the history of the brand does get fuzzy, though not for any fault of their own. The realities of the Second World War, Soviet occupation, and consolidation under the Iron Curtain may never unscramble Glashütte’s complex past. What cannot be questioned, however, is the quality of work A. Lange & Söhne routinely produces. It’s why they’re often cited as the first step into luxuriously acquired taste, the first bold venture beyond the grip of the Swiss or Japanese industries, opening the veritable Pandora’s box that is haute horlogerie. As of late, though, they’ve even been shirking that archetype, rising to compete as one of the greatest watch brands around, regard...
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