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Crown Guards

Integral case projections protecting the crown from impact; introduced on Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 in 1959.

Louis Erard and The Horophile Collaborate on a Sleek Art Deco Inspired Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Aug 29, 2023

Louis Erard and The Horophile Collaborate on a Sleek Art Deco Inspired Limited Edition

If you had told me a few weeks ago that Louis Erard’s new collaboration with Amr Sindi, AKA, The Horophile, would be an Art Deco inspired watch with a quite literal approximation of the Empire State Building within the handset, I probably would have let out an audible groan. Not because I don’t have faith in Louis Erard (their run of limited editions over the past few years is basically a parade of nonstop hits) or The Horophile (whose Instagram feed reveals his exceptional taste), but because it just all seems so on-the-nose. Art Deco inspired designs are a pretty niche interest in 2023, but calling out the Empire State Building, perhaps the single most well known symbol of the design and architecture movement as a major point of reference, seems to me like a recipe for something that you’d find in the building’s gift shop. Well, I should have known better. Because the new watch from Louis Erard is beautifully subtle, and surprisingly modern in its sensibility.  The Petite Seconde Metropolis incorporates a number of Art Deco hallmarks into a clean design that takes advantage of a Louis Erard platform that we’re starting to see used more frequently. As you might expect given the Art Deco themes, there was a large focus on the typeface used for the hours around the dial’s perimeter. Each numeral is very subtly “openworked,” and they’re presented in an uncommon circular fashion, which mimics the circular motif at the dial’s center. Importantly, these hou...

The new MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision bare all with full transparency and new colours Time+Tide
MB&F; Aug 24, 2023

The new MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision bare all with full transparency and new colours

The MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision initially came in four editions, each limited to only 5 pieces Two new HM9-SV models now join the collection, again each limited to 5 pieces One brings a blue PVD-coated movement into a white gold case, the other a green PVD-coated movement into a yellow gold case The MB&F; catalogue … ContinuedThe post The new MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision bare all with full transparency and new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Aug 23, 2023

The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts

Longines unveils an engraved trio with three different dial colours in three different finishes The watches are downsized from 40mm to 38.5mm, in a move destined to be popular among enthusiasts An azurage-finish petite seconde is courtesy of the silicon hairspring-equipped L893.5 How often do you see a brand new release that immediately captures you? … ContinuedThe post The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Out of Office: The Wandering Bezel of the Seiko Land Tortoise Worn & Wound
Seiko Land Tortoise Tool watches Aug 22, 2023

Out of Office: The Wandering Bezel of the Seiko Land Tortoise

Tool watches are, as the name suggests, utilitarian by design. When I bought an SRPG13, the green Seiko Land Tortoise with a compass bezel, I thought I was purchasing yet another tool watch with practical non-timekeeping functionality. After an overnight family backpacking trip, I’m not convinced my field watch is the useful tool I tried to force it to be. The Land Tortoise is a tool watch- in the sense that it’s technically capable of tasks beyond displaying the time. True North can be found with any analog watch by pointing the hour hand at the sun, bisecting the angle between the hour hand and the sun to find South, and then locating the opposite point to identify North. A compass bezel is an enhancement that allows the wearer to mark North after finding it. This summer our family of four is section hiking the entire Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail; A 50 mile peak to peak path through New Hampshire’s backcountry. What better place to put this tool to the test than on the first section of the trip? The day before our first overnight section, as I organized gear, sprawling out sleeping pads, a tent, trekking poles and various knick-knacks across our living room floor, I made sure to put on the SRPG13. I pictured standing on a mountain top, getting the kids set up with a celebratory lunch, lining up the hour hand, and then bisecting with ease. With a real compass in my pack, I was excited to check my accuracy.  Two miles away and 2000 feet above the parking lot whe...

20 Affordable GMT Watches for Budget-Conscious Travelers Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 18, 2023

20 Affordable GMT Watches for Budget-Conscious Travelers

Of all the different types of complicated timepieces, watches with a GMT or second-time-zone function are among the most useful in everyday life, especially for those of us who travel frequently, do long-distance business in other parts of the world, or some combination of both. Until relatively recently, if you wanted such a watch with a traditional mechanical movement (as opposed to a digital or quartz option), you could expect to pay a fairly hefty price for it. Fortunately, a growing number of watch brands - large and small, well-established as well as plucky newcomers - have started to make GMT watches that are attainable for newer, less affluent aficionados while also being robustly built and thoughtfully designed. In this article, we spotlight 20 of these affordable GMT watches, in ascending order of MSRP, all of which fall under the $2,000 threshold. (If you’re interested in a broader look at the GMT watch category, and might be convinced to spend a bit, or a lot, more, check out our original list of the best GMT watches.) Under $1,000: Timex Q Timex GMT Price: $229, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Always known for its value proposition, mass-market Timex has also gotten onto the radar of vintage-watch fans in recent years by reproducing some of its cult-favorite historical models, seeking out the sweet spot between historical flair, modest dimensions, and great pricin...

Mr. Jones Continues to Expand their Mechanical Collection with the Release of The Accurate, A Clever Take on the Memento Mori Worn & Wound
Aug 17, 2023

Mr. Jones Continues to Expand their Mechanical Collection with the Release of The Accurate, A Clever Take on the Memento Mori

Mr. Jones, the brand whose slogan is “The Most Unique British Watches,” continues to update their eclectic collection with mechanical versions of their most popular and talked about quartz watches. Back in April, we told you about the mechanical release of “A Perfectly Useless Afternoon,” a watch that told time via a display that brings one of the laziest activities imaginable – floating aimlessly in a pool – into fluid motion on the wrist. That design is a perfect example of the Mr. Jones ethos, which is to use a watch dial as a blank canvas to tell a story in a highly specific way, and to get people talking. Their watches, while certainly not to every taste, are undeniably full of ideas, and remarkably creative in a way that most watches simply aren’t, as the brand isn’t inspired by traditional watchmaking. The newest watch in their mechanical collection actually does take an idea that has existed in watchmaking for just about as long as the practice has existed, the memento mori, and puts a uniquely Mr. Jones spin on it. “The Accurate” doesn’t use traditional memento mori iconography, but it is, as the brand says, the most accurate watch ever made.  The Mr. Jones collection is full of visual puns, and The Accurate is a good example. The words “remember you will die” appear spread across the hour and minute hands, such that whenever you read the time, you get a not-so-subtle reminder of your own mortality. This, of course, is the point of a mem...

Hublot’s Lightens Up with the Big Bang Unico Sky Blue Worn & Wound
Hublot s Lightens Up Aug 15, 2023

Hublot’s Lightens Up with the Big Bang Unico Sky Blue

More and more, the luxury industry is looking to redefine what it means to be a “neutral” color. Instead of black, why not try a dark red? Instead of tan, a hunter green may do the trick. And if navy is a bit passe, then perhaps a lighter blue has just as much sophistication, but with a bit more impact on the wrist. Or, at least that’s the case with Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sky Blue. Inspired by summer sunshine and the cloudless skies that accompany it, Hublot’s latest watch is vibrant while remaining refined. To accomplish this balance, Hublot has leaned into their brand identity as a watchmaker that marries technical precision with a robust design language. The watch has a strong presence on the wrist at 42mm, which is enhanced by the added details, such as the metal rivets, crown, and complementary colored strap. The case of the watch itself is made of high-tech, ultra-tough ceramic, something the Swiss brand has become known for in the industry, that gives Hublot a lot of control over the color of their end product.  The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is powered by an in-house automatic movement called the Unico. Composed of 354 pieces and providing over 72-hours of power reserve, the Unico HUB1280 movement is a celebration of the Swiss watchmaking tradition. Like many watches in Hublot’s various collections, the Sky Blue has a skeletonized dial, allowing the wearer to witness the internal workings of this watch throughout the day. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is l...

Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign? Time+Tide
Longines HydroConquest GMT signal Aug 10, 2023

Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign?

The Longines HydroConquest GMT departs from the cult-classic look for a more familiar case shape. The green and brown dial options are especially sumptuous, with gold details and colour-matched date wheels. The new GMT design may be divisive among HydroConquest fans, but will certainly attract a wider audience. Longines are one of the biggest players … ContinuedThe post Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Swatch Bioceramic What If? collection reimagines their round 1983 debut as square Time+Tide
Swatch Aug 9, 2023

The new Swatch Bioceramic What If? collection reimagines their round 1983 debut as square

The new Swatch Bioceramic What If? collection imagines their 1983 debut was square instead of round. It merges ‘80s style with modern eco-friendly materials such as bioceramic. Four watches are available in green, black, grey and beige. The exploration of alternate and parallel universes has definitely become one of the most interesting pop culture trends … ContinuedThe post The new Swatch Bioceramic What If? collection reimagines their round 1983 debut as square appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot Adds New Dial Options to their 35mm PRX Powermatic 80 Collection Worn & Wound
Tissot Adds New Dial Options Aug 8, 2023

Tissot Adds New Dial Options to their 35mm PRX Powermatic 80 Collection

In a move that’s sure to excite watch enthusiasts, Tissot is adding two new colors to the celebrated PRX Powermatic 80 35mm: fan-favorite Ice Blue and a PVD Gold. The PRX landscape has never looked more diverse, and those who prefer an automatic movement in the more approachable size can now choose between six flavors: Black, Green, Blue, White Mother of Pearl, Ice Blue, and Gold. It’s hard to believe that it has already been two years since Tissot reintroduced the PRX, a watch with origins from 1978. With its angular case and integrated bracelet, it’s right on trend and has been a calling card for those looking to get into the integrated sports watch game without selling a kidney. Over time, the lineup has grown to include quartz and automatic watches in both 40mm and 35mm. By gradually adding size, color, movement options, and even a chronograph, Tissot has earned its place on the shortlist for affordable yet satisfying sport watches. These new PRX 35mm watches are powered by Tissot’s Powermatic 80. Based on the ETA 2824-2 caliber, the Powermatic’s improved spring barrel efficiency and lower beat rate of 3Hz allow for an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. Unlike their 40mm counterparts, however, the new 35mm PRX watches boast near-universal wearability. This is largely attributed to the way the first bracelet link extends as it meets the case. A 6mm reduction in lug-to-lug distance from 51mm to just under 45mm (44.9mm to be exact) makes this a completely dif...

Gun-toting thieves steal up to US$16 million worth of watches and jewellery from Piaget store in Paris Time+Tide
Piaget store Aug 5, 2023

Gun-toting thieves steal up to US$16 million worth of watches and jewellery from Piaget store in Paris

At lunchtime on Wednesday, two men and a woman walked into the Piaget store in Paris’ Rue de la Paix, situated just around the corner from the Place Vendôme. The trio were described by eyewitnesses as being “smarty dressed” – the men wearing grey suits and the woman in a green dress. Once inside the … ContinuedThe post Gun-toting thieves steal up to US$16 million worth of watches and jewellery from Piaget store in Paris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Frustration-free watch tool upgrades everyone should own Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2023

Frustration-free watch tool upgrades everyone should own

If you’ve jumped into the deep end of the watch collecting pool, you’ve probably accumulated a few tools for accomplishing minor tasks, such as changing straps and bracelets, installing new batteries in quartz watches, and general cleaning chores. At some point in your collecting journey, you’ve probably picked up one of those generic sets from … ContinuedThe post Frustration-free watch tool upgrades everyone should own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa Time+Tide
Raketa Jul 31, 2023

From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa

Despite what some marketing departments would have you think, there’s almost never such a thing as a centuries-old watch brand with an unbroken history. Whether it’s a change of ownership, bankruptcy during the Quartz Crisis, or a pivot to an entirely different technology, consistent survival as a watch brand requires adaptation. Raketa don’t come up … ContinuedThe post From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches, Ep 60: More Collabs, A Nautical Cricket, & Oris Hits One Out of the Park Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Jul 30, 2023

A Week In Watches, Ep 60: More Collabs, A Nautical Cricket, & Oris Hits One Out of the Park

We’re back with a fresh episode of A Week In Watches, covering news from Norqain, Oris, Vulcain, and of course, Linde Werdelin. Additionally, it wouldn’t be a new week without a new collaboration to discuss, and this time it comes courtesy of our friends at Massena LAB and Revolution Magazine in the form of a new, mostly original take on the Uni-Racer Chronograph. Elsewhere, Oris returns to the baseball field to honor the great Milwaukee (okay, and Atlanta) Brave, Hank Aaron with a new colorway of their Big Crown Pointer Date. Another unique configuration of an existing watch released this week is a new Octo Moonphase from Linde Werdelin, who still have a knack for killer case architecture and open dial work. A favorite release this weeks comes from Vulcain, who is once again bringing back the Nautical Cricket, a diving alarm watch with a gnarly inner bezel which includes a full decompression table. This is a historic watch that’s more than just a novelty, it’s got some serious pedigree under its belt that dates back to the early ’60s. Plus, it offers two caseback options, a move we rarely see at this price point. Keep an eye out for more on that one coming soon. Until then, enjoy this week’s episode below. A quick note on a programming change with A Week In Watches: this series will be moving to a bi-monthly format, allowing us more time to bring you a broader selection of curated news, at an even better production quality. A lot of work goes into creating the...

The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking “Paul Newman” Orange hits vintage notes for under US$500 Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Chronoking “Paul Newman” Orange Jul 26, 2023

The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking “Paul Newman” Orange hits vintage notes for under US$500

The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking is a meca-quartz chronograph that uses quartz for the time and a mechanical module for the chronograph This Chronoking “Paul Newman” Orange uses the famed Jean Singer numeral font for the registers also seen on Paul Newman Daytonas It is a limited edition, with a five-week order window period You know … ContinuedThe post The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking “Paul Newman” Orange hits vintage notes for under US$500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It’s a Close Encounter of the Horological Kind with the New UFO Clocks from Ulysse Nardin Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Eagle-eyed watch Jul 25, 2023

It’s a Close Encounter of the Horological Kind with the New UFO Clocks from Ulysse Nardin

Eagle-eyed watch and horology enthusiasts are experiencing a close encounter of the third kind as Ulysse Nardin has dropped three new versions of its avant-garde UFO (Unidentified Floating Object) marine chronometer table clock. Based on the original UFO from 2021, the trio of new colors celebrates Ulysse Nardin’s special relationship with three famed retailers: Swiss-based Bucherer (Ice Blue), Japanese retailer Yoshida (Green), and The Hour Glass (Champagne) in Southeast Asia. The clocks are limited to 30 in each color and are available exclusively through these retailers. Ulysse Nardin commemorated its 175th anniversary back in the spring of 2021 by introducing the first series of UFOs in a batch of 75 examples in dark blue. All sold out quickly. In the fall of that year, at Only Watch, a unique one-off in orange hammered for an eye-watering CHF 380,000. Clearly, there was interest in this unapologetically futuristic take on the marine chronometer – once a crucial tool in navigation at sea and the pinnacle of precision timekeeping. Ulysse Nardin claims this is the fruit of two years of research and development in partnership with L’Épée, whom you may recognize as past collaborators with MB&F;. A closer look at the UFO reveals a product that builds on UN’s history as masters of the marine chronometer while pushing the boundaries of design and engineering. Aesthetically, the UFO is like a JLC Atmos clock that decided to let loose: the half-sphere base houses a tun...

Ulysse Nardin are helping save the oceans with the Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin are helping save Jul 24, 2023

Ulysse Nardin are helping save the oceans with the Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure

Environmentalism and luxury are two things that don’t really fit perfectly together in my  brain. An industry that creates so much waste yet promotes a lifestyle surrounded by beauty just doesn’t add up. I grew up in a small beach town and was in the ocean every day after school, surfing and swimming with turtles…. … ContinuedThe post Ulysse Nardin are helping save the oceans with the Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Citizen s “Unite Jul 14, 2023

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch

If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme) Quill & Pad
Jul 6, 2023

Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme)

Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet. This year the theme is rainbows: some brands ran with that superbly, while others took a different path. Here Ian Skellern highlights Lots 33-48.