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Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.

A Hands-On Introduction To The Limited-Edition Oblique Collection By Dennison And Collectability Fratello
Patek Philippe specialist John Reardon unveil May 27, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The Limited-Edition Oblique Collection By Dennison And Collectability

After last year’s limited-edition ALD watches, Dennison and Collectability are back with another collaboration. Designer Emmanuel Gueit and Patek Philippe specialist John Reardon unveil four watches featuring a new asymmetric design. The Oblique Enigma features a stepped dial, just like last year’s ALD editions. The Oblique Vector features a sunburst dial enhanced by subtle printing […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Limited-Edition Oblique Collection By Dennison And Collectability to read the full article.

A Unique A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication Emerges SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 26, 2026

A Unique A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication Emerges

Being the serious-minded German brand that it is, A. Lange & Söhne almost never makes unique or one-off watches. But just before Watches & Wonders opened its doors last month, Lange presented the Grand Complication in white gold with a black enamel dial to its lucky, large-wristed owner. First launched in 2013, the Grand Complication was a watch of many superlatives – the most complicated, most expensive, and most biggest Lange wristwatch ever made. Six of the 50 mm originals were made, all identical and all resembling a pocket watch with lugs. The new Grand Complication, on the other hand, feels more contemporary, but it remains the most complicated, expensive, and biggest Lange wristwatch ever made. The unique Grand Complication. Image – Owner Initial thoughts Lange’s “grand comp” was launched at Watches & Wonders when it was still a Hong Kong event. I was surprised by the watch, and while impressed by the technical achievement, it felt derivative. As it was then, the Grand Complication was essentially a replica, right down to the white enamel dial. The new Grand Complication looks and feels like an entirely different watch. Made in-house like Lange’s recent enamel dials, the black champleve dial is striking and modern. The white gold case contributes equally to the fresh look that departs the 19th century aesthetic. Image – Owner However, in a strange twist, the new case material leaves the brand logo along the dial flange even more obvious than before. T...

Introducing: The Redesigned 40mm TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph In Four Variants Fratello
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph May 25, 2026

Introducing: The Redesigned 40mm TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph In Four Variants

TAG Heuer unveils four new Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph models, with two in steel and two in different grades of titanium. The 40mm steel versions feature either a blue or green dial and polished center links in the bracelet, while the Grade 2 titanium one sports the Aquaracer Solargraph’s signature polar-blue accents and a sandblasted […] Visit Introducing: The Redesigned 40mm TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph In Four Variants to read the full article.

Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second In Three Variants Fratello
Orient May 23, 2026

Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second In Three Variants

Orient Star unveils its latest anniversary release in three versions. The Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second comes in green and ivory as part of the regular catalog, while a dark gray-to-black version is limited to 500 pieces. This collection leans into classic styling with a balanced layout. A subsidiary seconds dial sits at 6 […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second In Three Variants to read the full article.

Introducing - The Gem-Set Trilogy of MB&F; LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions Monochrome
MB&F; May 22, 2026

Introducing - The Gem-Set Trilogy of MB&F; LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions

Teaming up with independent watchmaker wizard Stephen McDonnell in 2015 catapulted MB&F; into the rarefied domain of haute horlogerie. McDonnell’s extraordinary, award-winning LM Perpetual marked a before-and-after in the genre. A fully integrated 581-component calibre, the complication is shown dial-side beneath the suspended balance wheel of the Legacy Machine family. A mesmerising display of mechanical […]

Introducing: Breitling Refreshes The Chronomat Collection Hodinkee
Breitling Refreshes May 19, 2026

Introducing: Breitling Refreshes The Chronomat Collection

What We Know Today, Breitling relaunches the Chronomat lineup with an updated design language that builds on the collection's major 2020 revamp and makes a few small adjustments that feel quite consumer-friendly. The refreshed collection spans the gamut of sizes and complications, with 22 variants, from chronographs to time-and-date models, in many dial colors and metals. There are three models in the new lineup: the Chronomat B01 42 chronograph, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and the Chronomat Automatic 36.  The steel Chronomat B01 with ice blue dial and platinum bezel. In steel, the Chronomat B01 comes with a white, blue, or green dial and contrasting black subdials, while in two-tone steel and red gold, it features a grey dial. A full red gold variant features a brown dial, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial. Chronomat Automatic B31 40mm. There is also a new model in this update, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40. It's the first time-and-date Chronomat in a 40mm diameter, which I think hits the sweet spot for the more sporty, aggressive Chronomat design and a wide range of wrists. It's also the first time we've seen the Caliber B31 on a Chronomat, as it was previously used in the Top Time B31 and a few SuperOcean Heritage models. In steel, there are three dial colors: blue, green, and white, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial.  For the Chronomat Automatic 36, a steel version is available in a classic bl...

Seiko Marks 145 Years with Arita Porcelain Presage SJX Watches
Seiko Marks 145 Years May 18, 2026

Seiko Marks 145 Years with Arita Porcelain Presage

As Seiko’s 145th anniversary celebrations unfold, the brand expands its value-oriented Presage Classic “Craftsmanship” collection with two new commemorative limited editions. The HCC007 features a gradient blue Arita porcelain dial in an appealing 39.6 mm size, while the 36 mm HCC004 answers the call for smaller dress watch options. Initial thoughts Seiko has been making incremental improvements to its Presage line of entry-level dress watches since the collection debuted in 2010. Almost since the beginning, Seiko has used the Presage as a vehicle to experiment with ways to make traditional craftsmanship accessible, starting with fired enamel dials in 2012 and Arita porcelain dials in 2019. Since then, the Presage has benefited from a movement upgrade, and now boasts a weekend-proof three-day power reserve. The 145th anniversary editions prove that Seiko hasn’t run out of ideas, and the HCC007 in particular brings an additional layer of artisanal individuality to the execution that is rarely seen at this price range — its gradient blue dial has echoes of the Credor Eichi II in ruri blue. The charming and compact 36 mm HCC004 offers a little something for everyone. Powered by the same cal. 6R51 as its porcelain-dialled sibling, it features an embossed dial with a silk-like texture — the latest in a long line of Seiko watches with fabric-patterned dials. Both models appear aimed at the enthusiast market, as neither features a date window. This gives each watch a ...

First Look - The New A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne May 16, 2026

First Look - The New A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold

A. Lange & Söhne revisits one of its most distinctive designs, the rectangular Cabaret, and reinforces the model’s role by pairing the brand’s proprietary Honeygold alloy with a black-rhodiumed dial, a combination seen earlier in the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold, thus highlighting the importance of the watch. First introduced in 1997, the Cabaret stands apart in […]

Seiko Celebrates Its 145th Anniversary With The Prospex HBC005 And HBB001 Limited Editions Fratello
Seiko Celebrates May 14, 2026

Seiko Celebrates Its 145th Anniversary With The Prospex HBC005 And HBB001 Limited Editions

To celebrate Seiko’s 145th anniversary, the Japanese brand has created a series of watches featuring a nice combination of blue and white. The series pays tribute to Seiko Blue, resulting in some surprisingly fresh creations. The new Seiko Prospex HBC005 and HBB001 limited editions proudly sport a crisp white dial with a vibrant blue bezel. […] Visit Seiko Celebrates Its 145th Anniversary With The Prospex HBC005 And HBB001 Limited Editions to read the full article.

Introducing: The Ming 29.06 "Peep Show" Hodinkee
Ming 29.06 Peep Show What May 12, 2026

Introducing: The Ming 29.06 "Peep Show"

What We Know Want to see a magic trick? No, not the kind the Joker pulls in "The Dark Knight," but instead something pretty cool that Ming has cooked up with their new 29.06 "Peep Show." The watches below look markedly different, but the only thing that's changed is the direction the hands point. When Ming Thein showed me this watch last fall, I immediately got what was going on as he turned the crown. If you were doing the same, you'd see that the guilloché dial with a multiphase color-shifting coating (like on the 57.04 "Iris") slowly fades in and out of visibility, turning from a dazzling view to pitch black as the hands move. Any guesses on how it works? Well, it's kind of a trick question, because the hands aren't actually hands. Instead, they're polarized sapphire discs with a hands made of Super-LumiNova X1 fill. The two pieces of sapphire are linearly polarized, so when they're aligned (on top of each other or directly opposite each other), the polarizer lets light in, and you can see that metal disc with color-shifting treatment. As the hands rotate, you see less and less of the dial until it turns black when the two discs are at 90º to each other. When you learn the effect, it's pretty simple, but it's certainly effective in person. All this is in a 29-series case, which is a bit more reserved than the 57-series case. It's made in lightweight Grade 5 titanium, measuring 40mm by 11.8mm, with a 22mm lug width. The case has a 50-meter water resistance. Inside the ...

Hands On: Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final May 12, 2026

Hands On: Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition

Urwerk bids farewell to the Spacemeter with UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition. As the final series of the UR-10, the 25-piece limited edition features a dark blue dial that differentiates it from the black and silver editions released previously. The watch is otherwise identical to its predecessors, and features an instrument panel-like display that tracks the progress of the Earth around both the sun and its own axis. Initial thoughts The ‘almost conventional’ display of the UR-10 represents a departure for Urwerk, which made its name in satellite wandering hours complications. Like the quirky and impressive EMC, the UR-10 proves Urwerk’s space-age aesthetic works in a variety of formats. But the Spacemeter’s time on Earth was relatively short, having been launched less than a year ago. The limited production of just 75 pieces (25 in each of three colours) should reward collectors, but I’m hopeful the ergonomic case and bracelet will come out of retirement to house different complications in the future. The UR-10 borrows a number of stylistic cues from the UR-100, but the case construction is entirely novel. The 45.4 mm case is essentially a bi-level construction — stainless steel on the bottom for a stable weight balance, and titanium on top for a continuous look from case to bracelet. The two materials contrast slightly on the winglets on either side of the case, where they are fastened with bolts. This construction is similar to that of the original Pate...

Introducing - The Final Edition of the Urwerk UR-10 SpaceMeter Blue Monochrome
Urwerk UR-10 SpaceMeter Blue Urwerk May 12, 2026

Introducing - The Final Edition of the Urwerk UR-10 SpaceMeter Blue

Urwerk, the indie brand founded by Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner in 1997, is renowned for its futuristic, aerodynamic vessels with kinetic satellite hour displays.  In 2025, Urwerk released the UR-10 SpaceMeter, a watch that initially stumped fans with its round dial and conventional hour and minute hands. However, closer inspection revealed Urwerk’s fascination with […]

Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Series Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Series When May 12, 2026

Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Series

When discussing super-affordable entry-level watches with enthusiasts, the name Citizen Tsuyosa is likely to come up. Since the Japanese brand first unveiled the Tsuyosa in 2022, the line has become incredibly popular. Over the past four years, we have seen striking new dial variations of the inaugural 40mm versions, smaller 37mm variations, and a series […] Visit Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Series to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir F77 Polar White MK1 Limited Edition Fratello
Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir May 11, 2026

Hands-On With The New Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir F77 Polar White MK1 Limited Edition

Sometimes, you don’t want a color or a fancy finish on your dial, and occasionally, the second version isn’t always better than the first. That must be exactly what Ludovic Barrois from the French watch publication Le Petit Poussoir was thinking. That’s probably why, with his friend Guillaume Laidet, he released the Nivada Grenchen F77 […] Visit Hands-On With The New Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir F77 Polar White MK1 Limited Edition to read the full article.

First Look: Seiko 5 Sports Field Series SJX Watches
Seiko 5 Sports Field Series May 8, 2026

First Look: Seiko 5 Sports Field Series

Seiko is reinforcing its entry level collection with the 5 Sports Field Series, a range of new models with compass bezels available in a range of dial colours from instrument-like white to brown, which seems to be a popular colour at the moment. While substantively similar to existing Seiko 5 Sports models and equally well priced, the Field Series watches feature serrated compass bezels with a glittering hobnail motif that is both functional — for enhanced grip — and attractive. Left to right: HDB009, HDB008, HDB006, and HDB007. Image – Seiko Initial thoughts The Seiko 5 Sports collection is perhaps the ultimate gateway to watch collecting. It’s the rare entry level watch that could be someone’s last watch as easily as their first. Not everyone is a collector, and some people just want a watch that does what is asked without asking for much in return. The Seiko 5 Sports fits the bill, while opening the door to the larger world of mechanical watches. The Seiko 5 is tangibly appealing in several respects, being one of the most affordable mechanical watches from a fully integrated manufacture. With Seiko, there’s no wondering who made what — the brand even formulates its own luminous compound for the hands, hour markers, and bezel pip instead of relying on the same suppliers as everyone else. Seiko also understands the aesthetic history of the wristwatch because the brand helped write it. This explains some of the subtle details like the tiny serifs on the hour ...

Mixed Materials: Girard-Perregaux’s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph May 7, 2026

Mixed Materials: Girard-Perregaux’s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph

Girard-Perregaux (GP) has expanded the Laureato Chronograph collection with an on-trend two-tone model with a brown dial. For fans of the Laureato — or 1970s-inspired sports watches in general — the new steel-and-rose gold reference strikes a balance between casual and luxurious. While not a limited edition, GP intends to start production with a small run of just 50 pieces. Initial thoughts Earth-tone dials seem to be having a moment. As more watch brands continue to explore brown dials and earth tones, GP has jumped in with its own interpretation. Brown can be a difficult colour to pull off, but the glittering hobnail texture of the Laureato’s dial lends this casual colour a degree of luxury and keeps it from looking dull. The new two-tone variant features the same dimensions as its stablemates, with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 12.16 mm. But at a time when watches seem to be getting smaller, the 42 mm size feels larger than ever. Of course, size has its perks — the large dial opening reveals a richly detailed dial, and the 18k rose gold bezel has plenty of personality at this scale. For those who find the size intimidating on paper, the integrated rubber strap should remove much of the perceived bulk on the wrist. Rubber hasn’t always been considered a luxury material, but today it’s an industry staple, and an appealing alternative to the weight of steel or precious metal. The everyday luxury chronograph The Laureato Chronograph is fundamentally a ...