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Results for Proprietary Gold Alloys

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Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case

While Cartier has unveiled fancier and more complex watches at W&W; 2022, one of its standout new launches is amongst the more affordable, at least in steel. The Santos-Dumont Large Model in lacquer is unusual and interesting; very different from any recent Cartier yet clearly a product of the Parisian jeweller. Available in steel, gold, or platinum, the new Santos-Dumont has its case and bezel finished with coloured lacquer, while the dial has a concentric cube pattern. Though the lacquered case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a similar decoration, it is unique amongst Cartier’s current line up. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont is inspired by a 1920s watch with a lacquer bezel, giving it an unsurprising vintage vibe, yet it is entirely original. With its square bezel and Roman numerals, it is clearly a Cartier Santos, but it stands apart from its more mundane counterparts. I like everything about it, though I would have preferred it in the Extra-Large size, rather than the Large as it is now. Of the three versions, the steel model has the strongest vintage vibes with its black lacquer. The platinum model is striking and almost over the top in its colour, while the rose gold version lacks contrast. In steel with black lacquer While the platinum and gold versions are limited edition – as would be expected for such an unusual watch – the steel version is regular production, which is both unexpected and welcome news. And the watch is fairly priced in all its v...

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Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko celebrates Mar 28, 2022

Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009

Never ones to shy away from a party, Grand Seiko release the SLGA013 and SLGH009. Celebrating the 55th anniversary of the 44GS, these Heritage collection pieces offer well-known GS movements, with improvements to their design, allowing for a better fit on-wrist. With stellar dials and Grand Seiko proprietary steel, neither of these 550-piece limited editions … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Why this is the golden age of mechanical watch collecting Time+Tide
Mar 24, 2022

Why this is the golden age of mechanical watch collecting

If you’re old enough to remember the song Video Killed the Radio Star, you’re also old enough to remember a time when most people wore quartz watches. This was a time of breakdancing, big hair, even bigger shoulder pads, and every song on the radio having at least one saxophone solo. The 80s might have … ContinuedThe post Why this is the golden age of mechanical watch collecting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch Collection Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch Mar 23, 2022

Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch Collection

Today the watch world was stunned when word got out that Swatch and Omega have collaborated to bring us a set of 11 new, affordably-priced "Speedmasters." Now, considering the available color options, the proprietary BioCeramic cases, and reliable quartz movements - it's clear that these will be a hit with everyone from budget-conscious collectors to hardcore Speedy fanatics.

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Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5057G “Cortina Mar 10, 2022

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”

Conceived for the jubilee of Singapore-based retailer Cortina Watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 is a throwback to the nineties in both size and size, but given a contemporary flavour with a dial in smoked grey. In fact, it is a remake of the original model, the ref. 5057R that was in rose gold. Interestingly, the reference was specifically created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary in 1997, giving the ref. 5057 the distinction of being a reference unique to a retailer. Initial thoughts Though it’s small by modern standards – it’s a bit over 36 mm in diameter – the ref. 5057G instantly stands out with its nineties style. The triple-row hobnail bezel and straight lugs instantly evoke Patek Philippe’s aesthetic of that decade. They set the ref. 5057G apart from the brand’s current offerings that have a more modern style. I like Patek Philippe’s style of that era, so I like the ref. 5057G. With the wide hobnail bezel, it’s a bit fancier than it should be, but that’s the appeal. And the bezel is the very feature that gives the watch presence. It catches the light well and is essentially “bling” for an otherwise conservative design. At the same time, the ref. 5057G is more attractive than the original model in rose gold, which lacked contrast due to its white-on-rose gold palette. By today’s standards the original is old fashioned. The ref. 5057R of 1997 that was created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary and also a limited edition of 100 wat...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Maurice Lacroix just dropped some affordable luxury sunshine for the wrist Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix just dropped some affordable Mar 4, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Maurice Lacroix just dropped some affordable luxury sunshine for the wrist

This week we unfortunately do not have any event recaps to share, but today a ray of sunshine dropped for immediate release – so I figured I’d quickly share the deets with you. A watch so gold in tone, Austin Power’s Goldmember would be clamouring to have this watch on his wrist, the Maurice Lacroix … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Maurice Lacroix just dropped some affordable luxury sunshine for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock SJX Watches
Feb 27, 2022

Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock

German independent watchmaker Rolf Lang produces both wristwatches and clocks – including a lavish gold egg containing a marine chronometer – and he now turns to French glassmaker Lalique for his latest sculptural clock. Their collaboration resulted in the Phoenix Clock that is entirely hand engraved and equipped with a gigantic tourbillon – held aloft by a glass-crystal sculpture of a soaring eagle with wings spread. Rolf Lang Initial thoughts Like the ultra-luxe egg clock of 2018, the Phoenix is appealing for its strong design and craftsmanship. The father of independent watchmaker Marco Lang, Rolf Lang’s house style is highly decorative and rooted in 19th century watchmaking so the aesthetic means the clock is not for everyone, but it is certainly impressive for those who appreciate what it is. With its ornate decoration, the Phoenix evokes the elaborate clocks and watches made for the Chinese market in the 19th century. It has an old-fashioned style and quality that stands in contrast with most contemporary watchmaking. And the clock excels at what it does, which is to impress while sitting on a desk. Still, it manages to be different and slightly modern as a result of the to the clever use of high-contrast materials. The crystal sculpture is splendid, and the clock itself is even more attractive with the ultra-large tourbillon sitting in full view under a glass sphere. While it has a big price tag, the Phoenix is special; there are nothing quite like it ...

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Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Elements in Mineral Stone SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Feb 24, 2022

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Elements in Mineral Stone

A Singapore watch retailer with a presence across Southeast Asia, Australasia, and even Japan, The Hour Glass frequently collaborated with the brands it represents on regional exclusives. The latest is the Classic Fusion 42 mm Elements, a variation on the watchmaker’s long-running, minimalist wristwatch but dressed up with striking mineral stone dials, ranging from tiger’s eye to turquoise, set against a titanium-and-gold case. Tiger’s eye Initial thoughts Like past editions created by The Hour Glass, the Classic Fusion Elements is different but attractive, accomplishing the most obvious purpose of a collaboration edition. Even though the Classic Fusion has been iterated endlessly, the Elements still manages to stand out. That’s thanks to several simple but smart details that demonstrate a good eye for design. The dial, for example, does away with hours markers and the date so the mineral stone can be revealed in all its natural glory. The unencumbered dial is not only appealing for its striking simplicity, but it will also speak to fans of the brands as it resembles the original Hublot design of 1980. Even though the dial is the star, the two-tone case plays an important role in the overall look. The gold accents make the case immediately more striking than its monochromatic counterparts, but the restrained use of gold means the result is stylish and avoids old-fashioned look that often comes with the two-tone combination. That said, the dial colours do call to...

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Corum Classical Billionaire: A Unique Piece That, While Pricey, Isn’t (Quite) As Expensive As It Looks And Its Name Suggests Quill & Pad
Corum Classical Billionaire Feb 17, 2022

Corum Classical Billionaire: A Unique Piece That, While Pricey, Isn’t (Quite) As Expensive As It Looks And Its Name Suggests

If there is one thing Martin Green likes, it is a well-designed diamond-set watch. And while there are quite a few around, there aren’t many as good as the Corum Classical Billionaire, which focuses on displaying the art of diamond cutting and setting. No less than 424 diamonds (for a total of 13.46 carats) decorate the white gold case. That is a lot of stones, but diamonds alone don't automatically make for a great watch. It’s the way that the gems are cut and set that ultimately decides if they add something more than just their precious and pricey nature.

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Grand Seiko Introduces 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces 44GS 55th Anniversary Feb 14, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition

Launched in 2020 inside the all-new Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko’s top-of-the-line mechanical and Spring Drive movements have now found their way into the distinctive 44GS case, which happens to turn 55 this year. With its wide, flat lugs, the 44GS case is a familiar, quintessential Grand Seiko (GS) design, but the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition pair bring along relatively new features: the case is machined from brand’s proprietary Ever Brilliant Steel for the first time, while the dial now sports an unusually pronounced woodgrain pattern. Initial thoughts The 44GS 55th Anniversary is typical of the brand’s recent launches with its iteration on familiar elements but made different with minor tweaks. It’s a subtlety that appeals to enthusiasts who cherish variations on a theme, though casual observers will find it difficult to distinguish between the models. But the fundamental appeal of GS remains, which is a top notch execution within its price segment. That said, the latest pair are arguably a bit more special. One factor in their favour is the patterned dial. It’s a newish addition to the GS line up and also exclusive to date, having been used only in two models, both of which are expensive watches in precious metals. The new 44GS is, of course, in steel and hence more affordable. But the case is no ordinary steel, but instead Ever Brilliant Steel – the corrosion-resistant alloy is being applied to GS cases for the first ...

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The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived SJX Watches
Feb 8, 2022

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived

Originally announced in 2018, the Leica L1 and L2 (now renamed ZM 1 and ZM 2) wristwatches have finally made it to market. Developed with the help of a German watchmaker but very much a proprietary product, the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are both powered by variants of the same cleverly constructed calibre that is an impressive debut for the camera maker’s horological venture. Initial thoughts The Leica watch has a restrained, Germanic aesthetic with interesting details, but more importantly an interesting, thoughtful movement. Developed from the ground up for Leica, the calibre features useful complications like a power reserve and hacking, zero-reset seconds, but executed in an unusual yet practical manner. At the same time, the patented pull crown is novel without sacrificing functionality. The design of the movement is also appealing, with its partially open-worked bridges cleverly exposing the key components of the going train and complications The watch is big, but not excessively large. Considering the size of the calibre, the case dimensions are acceptable. That said, this is the limit, any larger and the case would be enormous. It helps that the styling is attractively low key. The dial and case appear simple at a distance, but reveal their details up close. The hands and hour markers, for instance, echo each other, while the crowns are finely knurled. Leica also avoided a common pitfall of watches inspired by other technically-oriented industries, no doubt thanks to Achim H...

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Montblanc Flexes With The New Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy Quill & Pad
Montblanc Flexes Feb 2, 2022

Montblanc Flexes With The New Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy

A fountain pen’s nib is the source of its magic. Yes, there are many beautiful pens out there but without a great nib a pretty pen is just a pretty pen. A good pen point can transform an ordinary writing experience into a memorable melding of mind and hand. Montblanc’s new Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy Lacquer is a desirable pen by any measure, not the least of which is contributed to by its 18-karat gold flexible nib.

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An open letter to Bulgari: Please consider making this version of the Serpenti, and I’ll buy one Time+Tide
Bulgari Please consider making Feb 1, 2022

An open letter to Bulgari: Please consider making this version of the Serpenti, and I’ll buy one

Editor’s note: When I was in Dubai recently for Dubai Watch Week, I had the chance to try on a Bulgari Serpenti in rose gold and white ceramic. The owner of the watch, Eleonor of @theiofj was more than happy to oblige, and I swapped her for my 15500 Royal Oak. It wasn’t just for … ContinuedThe post An open letter to Bulgari: Please consider making this version of the Serpenti, and I’ll buy one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Chronograph 41 mm Ref. 26240 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jan 30, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Chronograph 41 mm Ref. 26240

In addition to new time-and-date models – led by the “Jumbo” ref. 16202 – Audemars Piguet revamped a few complicated Royal Oaks for the model’s 50th anniversary. At the top end of the complications line up is the flying tourbillon, while the most affordable is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm ref. 26240. Like last year’s solid-gold Royal Oak chronograph on a strap, the new ref. 26240 is equipped with the cal. 4401, the brand’s latest-generation chronograph movement that made its debut in the Code 11.59 Chronograph. All 50th anniversary Royal Oak watches produced in 2022 have 22k pink gold rotors bearing the anniversary emblem, but plated to match the case colour Initial thoughts Technically speaking, the ref. 26240 is less of a new launch because the gold version was introduced last year. What sets it apart is the bracelet; last year’s model was available only on a strap. But ref. 26240 is newsworthy as it marks the first time a Royal Oak Chronograph (ROC) in steel – historically the metal of choice for the Royal Oak – is fitted with an in-house movement. The cal. 4401 is certainly an upgrade over the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1185 that equipped past versions of the ROC. The new movement has almost everything a high-end sports chronograph should have, such as a vertical clutch and column wheel, while also having extras like a flyback function for immediate restart of the chronograph. Notably, the cal. 4401 also improves the balance of the dial...

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H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Total Eclipse SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Jan 20, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Total Eclipse

H. Moser & Cie. has teamed up with the menswear store with outposts in Hong Kong and New York for the Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse, a striking creation that utilises the starkness of Vantablack and polished elements on the dial to evoke a solar eclipse. The Endeavour Total Eclipse will be offered in two guises, both cased in steel but with the dial flange, markers, and hands in either matching steel or contrasting red gold. Initial thoughts Being an independent watchmaker that typically does the traditional with a distinct, quirky twist, Moser is clearly being itself with the Endeavour Total Eclipse. The styling is minimalist but different enough to be interesting – the domed hour markers and Breguet-style hands are rarely found on Moser’s watches, save for special runs such as the Bryan Ferry edition. The unusual design is largely thanks  to Mark Cho, The Armoury’s co-founder and a dapper dresser with a passion for classically-sized watches with attractive details. His primary requirement for the collaboration was a small(ish) case, explaining its 38 mm diameter that’s substantially more compact than Moser’s typical offerings – doubt good news for enthusiasts who share the same taste. But the highlight is the dial, which is a first for Moser. Thought the brand has used Vantablack in the past, this is the very first time it is combining a Vantablack-coated dial with hour markers. Small but high contrast, the hour markers easily stand out from the b...

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HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo brings a luxurious touch of hyper-masculinity to the wrist Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo brings Jan 5, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo brings a luxurious touch of hyper-masculinity to the wrist

Black and gold as a colour combination will never fail to melt hearts, serving to imbue any watch with a sense of deluxe class no matter how macho it may be. The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo may just be the perfect example of this, with all its tool-watch pedigree and masculine undertones, it just can’t … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo brings a luxurious touch of hyper-masculinity to the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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