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New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more Time+Tide
Omega Spinnaker Ming Oct 28, 2023

New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more

For this week’s selection, we have a healthy mix of incredible timepieces from the highest echelons of watchmaking, and more cheerful collaborations that give the world of watches a more joyful edge. After years of competition between the big brands for the lightest watch, we have a new player in this race, with independent darling … ContinuedThe post New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Chinese Calendar SJX Watches
Blancpain were traditional displays Oct 26, 2023

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Chinese Calendar

Having already one of the smartest perpetual calendars on the market, H. Moser & Cie. adds another calendar to its repertoire with the Endeavour Chinese Calendar. Sporting a double retrograde display, the new watch displays the traditional Chinese calendar, a lunisolar calendar that operates on the motions of the Sun and Moon, along with the Chinese zodiac. Unlike past watches with a Chinese calendar, the new Endeavour has a clean, modern aesthetic. Initial thoughts The Endeavour Chinese Calendar isn’t the first wristwatch to incorporate a traditional Chinese calendar, though it has the most concise display and is probably the easiest to understand. Past watches with Chinese calendars from the likes of Blancpain were traditional displays of the traditional Chinese calendar with as many Chinese characters as possible, resulting in busy dials. Moser, on the other hand, opted for minimalism with retrograde scales and Arabic numerals for the calendars. The only downside of the calendar display is its size; the tiny numerals mean a magnifier is probably necessary. In short, the Endeavour Chinese Calendar is a smart take on the traditional Chinese calendar, but one that could do with larger numerals. A lunisolar calendar Now mostly used for ceremonial purposes like public holidays and determine auspicious dates, the traditional Chinese calendar is a lunisolar calendar that depends on the Moon and Sun. A month for instance is the time between two new moons, with either 29 or 3...

A Lange & Söhne Gives Zeitwerk Minute Repeater the Honeygold Treatment for New NYC Boutique Worn & Wound
Casio n Oct 25, 2023

A Lange & Söhne Gives Zeitwerk Minute Repeater the Honeygold Treatment for New NYC Boutique

A Lange & Söhne opened the doors of their latest boutique in New York City’s upper east side this week with the help of CEO Wilhelm Schmid, and a new Zeitwerk Minute Repeater rendered in Honeygold was presented to mark the occasion. That might be the poshest sentence ever to be written on this website, but don’t let that turn you away just yet, there’s an impeccably interesting watch underneath the glitz here. The Zeitwerk takes a unique approach to displaying the time, and it’s no different when a chiming complication is added to the mix. There is no hour and minute hand here, and there’s also no slide mechanism along the side of the case. It is an entirely over the top example of the kind of creative engineering the brand is capable of set into a material that is nearly as difficult to explain.  The new boutique finds itself in New York’s lovely upper east side, on Madison ave at 63rd street, directly across from the Hermès boutique. The cozy space is accented with plenty of Lange ephemera, including a monolithic installment of a Saxonia Triple Split chronograph, which includes an oversized hyper accurate recreation of the movement around back. What I personally found the most compelling, however, was the display on the south wall, which was composed of small numbered boxes, each depicting a single piece of the 684 total pieces that comprise the Tourbograph Perpetual Pour Le Merite movement. It takes up an entire wall, and imagining them all placed within ...

Oak & Oscar Debuts their new Humboldt GMT in Titanium Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Oct 24, 2023

Oak & Oscar Debuts their new Humboldt GMT in Titanium

Windup NYC is a wrap, and the festivities saw the debut of many new watches from a huge variety of brands. Oak & Oscar is a Windup mainstay and a core part of the microbrand space (a term which admittedly seems less and less adequate as the years go by and these shows get bigger and bigger, but that’s a topic for another day), and they took the opportunity to debut a new flavor of an old favorite over the weekend, the Humboldt GMT in titanium. It’s immediately recognizable as an Oak & Oscar and will slot nicely into their existing catalog, but offers a handful of new details and innovations that show the Chicago based brand is still interested in moving forward and expanding the idea of what an Oak & Oscar watch should be.  The big news here is the titanium case. The Humboldt GMT in titanium is made from the grade 5 variety, and comes in at a weight of just 74 grams when mounted on a leather strap. It comes in at 39.5mm (with a bezel overhang of 0.5mm) and is 46.8mm from lug to lug. According to the brand, it’s 20% lighter than the original Humboldt GMT in stainless steel, which equates to a difference you’ll really notice on the wrist. It immediately makes the watch sportier based on ease of wear alone.  For the dial, we get a dark green shade, which is the same tone used on the green Olmsted. Like many other Oak & Oscar watches, this one has a sandwich dial construction, which allows for tons of contrast via lume that is present under the main dial layer. There...

TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm with the Carrera “Glassbox” in Yellow Gold SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm Oct 24, 2023

TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm with the Carrera “Glassbox” in Yellow Gold

The Carrera line takes a luxurious turn with a new chronograph sporting a yellow gold case and matching yellow gold-plated dial, complemented by contrasting matte black sub-dials. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” pays homage to a similar creation from the 1960s, the Carrera ref. 1158 CHN, which is known among collectors for its bold, all-gold design. Initial thoughts A precious metal sports watch often sparks debate about the relevance of the case material, particularly for brands not typically associated with pure luxury. However, TAG Heuer’s decision to execute its new Glassbox in the memorable “John Player Special” colour scheme of gold and black inspired by the ref. 1158 CHN is commendable. Moreover, it is a logical next step for TAG Heuer following the recent unveiling of the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, which is also available in rose gold.  This fusion of heritage and refinement brings a unique and distinguished touch to the ordinarily functional Carrera. The result is an appealing chronograph with a hint of vintage luxury that effectively showcases the distinctive Glassbox case.  The price tag for the gold Carrera is comparable to that of the rose gold Chronosprint x Porsche, which means the price is expected and appropriate though not quite a bargain. However, the Chronosprint boasts a more complex movement, making it a better value proposition – though the new Carrera is certainly more appealing in terms of design. The legendary gold Carrera 11...

A collector’s first foray into vintage, and why you should consider it too Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2023

A collector’s first foray into vintage, and why you should consider it too

My watch collecting journey started when I was very young. Something inexplicable attracted me to these collectible wrist companions, and I can safely say I’ve barely gone a day in my life without wearing one. While all of these watches have been inherently disparate, one common theme runs through my collecting journey – pretty much … ContinuedThe post A collector’s first foray into vintage, and why you should consider it too appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Opinion: My Love-Hate Relationship with Accuracy and Precision Worn & Wound
Timex watches Oct 24, 2023

Opinion: My Love-Hate Relationship with Accuracy and Precision

I have had a love-hate relationship with accuracy and precision for most of my life. In high school, I used to set my Timex watches to the school bell, so that when my watch hit the mark, class was let out. When I was on the drill team in the Royal Canadian Air Cadets, synchronizing our marching was critical and our timing had to be impeccable. I also grew up in a household that firmly believed that if you were not at least 10 minutes early, you were late. The latter has led me to sit on many empty Zoom/TEAMS calls for 5-10 minutes, but at least I am never late. It has been the same with the accuracy and precision of my mechanical watches. As a serial watch monogamist, I cannot wrap my head around owning multiple watches and swapping one out for another every other day. I just can’t do it. Instead, I wear my watches 24/7 and try to get the very most I can out of ownership. I track both the accuracy and precision of each piece, as well as how it wears and how the watch changes over time.  Now you may be asking yourself, why is he talking about accuracy and precision as if they were two different aspects of timing. To me, they are distinct. Accuracy is tracking how well a watch keeps time versus established atomic timing, such as www.time.gov. Precision is how precise the time is displayed on a watch. More on this later. For now, let us focus on accuracy. A familiar website for most watch collectors In the beginning, my initial introduction to mechanical watches was throu...

Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Looks Oct 23, 2023

Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack

One of my favorite episodes of Seinfeld is “The Chicken Roaster,” the eighth episode of season 8. You probably remember this one: it involves a Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant opening across the street from Kramer’s apartment, and eventually he switches apartments with Jerry to get some sleep (because obviously the big neon sign is keeping him up all night) which leads to some of the funniest moments in the history of the show (Jerry’s recollection of a late night phone call with Bob Sacamano will always stay with me). But the B-plot is great, too. It follows George and his saga with a Russian hat, intentionally left behind in the apartment of the woman who sold it to him, who of course he tries to date. This is a trick, he explains, to keep her interested. Like a jingle you can’t get out of your head. And that’s kind of how I feel about Bell & Ross. They have worked their way into my brain like a catchy pop song. They’re a mainstream brand that is capable of doing some truly weird stuff, and as someone who spends a lot of time observing and thinking about industry trends, I just find that fascinating. Their latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack, is squarely in the weird category, and a rare collaboration with an outside designer, Sacha Lakic.  Lakic is known primarily for being the founder of Blacktrack, a Luxembourg based maker of custom cafe racers and other motorcycles. The new BR 03-94 takes specific inspiration from his BT-06 motorcycle, which can be seen p...

Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Oct 23, 2023

Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40

British watch brand Fears has revealed new dial colours for one of its primary offerings, the Brunswick 40. The new variants are the Aurora with a mother-of-pearl dial, and the Copper Salmon with its eponymous metallic finish. But the two are not just cosmetic updates as the model has also undergone some improvements, including a larger 40 mm case and a novel typeface employed for the numerals. Initial thoughts Since the re-establishment of the Fears brand six years ago, I have always held an appreciation for the vintage-inspired design of the Brunswick in particular, with its cushion-shaped case and the subtle dial detailing. The highlight among the new additions would be the Aurora, which stands out from the rest of the Fears catalogue. Its mother-of-pearl dial that is comprised of two parts and finished by hand, giving each dial a unique look. The Aurora Having said that, the large case size of 40 mm does leave the new Brunswick somewhat substantial especially given its shape, bringing to mind to the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta. And with a case height of about 11 mm – not thick but not thin either – the case will sit fairly tall on the wrist. The pricing of the new Brunswick depends on the dial: the Copper Salmon is priced at £3,550 with a strap, while the Aurora is available for £3,850, with either being approximately £200 more with the bracelet. These prices are consistent with the existing models in the current collection. Considering the intrinsic features of ...

This Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture has their first-ever entirely hand-decorated movement Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture Oct 22, 2023

This Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture has their first-ever entirely hand-decorated movement

Frederique Constant celebrates the 15th anniversary of their in-house tourbillon movement with a platinum watch that houses their first-ever entirely hand-decorated movement.The post This Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture has their first-ever entirely hand-decorated movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 20, 2023

The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction

How much would you pay for a watch? What if it was the only one of its kind, or a record-breaker in terms of complications, or once owned by someone famous or historically significant? And just how expensive are the most expensive watches to ever change hands in a sale? In today's red-hot watch auction market, the answers, and the sums, may surprise you. Here we run down the list of the top 25 watches in descending order of the price they fetched on the auction block, while spotlighting some of the timepieces with the most fascinating backstories and representing the most impressive technical achievements. You'll find the expected abundance of watches from Patek Philippe and Rolex (the clear leaders in the category) but also a few from other watchmakers, large and small, who've recently broken into the upper echelon. At the end, we'll spotlight the highest selling watches from a few other brands that didn't crack the top 25 but maintain a robust presence on the watch auction scene. 1. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 ($31.19 million, 2019, Christie’s) Patek Philippe unveiled the first Grandmaster Chime watch in 2014 as part of the many celebrations around the Genevan maison’s 175the anniversary. The reference that made history at the Only Watch auction in Geneva in 2019 was a unique piece, the only Grandmaster Chime ever crafted in stainless steel; the Grandmaster Chime models in Patek’s regular collection are all made in precious metals. The watch...

IWC Brings a Fan Favorite Ceramic Tone to their 41mm Chronograph Platform Worn & Wound
IWC Brings Oct 19, 2023

IWC Brings a Fan Favorite Ceramic Tone to their 41mm Chronograph Platform

If you’re a fan of IWC pilot watches, you’ve no doubt participated in one of this cohort’s favorite activities, which is armchair quarterbacking the specifics of each release. We’ve gotten to a point where there are so many case sizes, complications, and case materials in the collection that the moment a new watch is announced, there’s a cry on the internet for that exact thing but tweaked, somehow, to more closely resemble another watch the brand makes. This is especially true with IWC’s ceramic cased pilot watches, which tend to be rather large and drive more than their share of “If only it was __mm” comments on Instagram. Earlier this year, in the midst of Ingy-fever, IWC quietly released a very nice 41mm chronograph in blue ceramic. It got some of us thinking: will more ceramic color options come to this Goldilocks sized case that everyone (myself very much included) seems to love?  The answer, of course, is yes. This week, IWC revealed a watch that many collectors have been hoping for for quite some time, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. The brown “Mojave” case is meant to look like desert sand, and has been a favorite when executed as a perpetual calendar and Big Pilot. It was also, first, a chronograph, which made its debut back in 2019 in the same 44.5mm case later occupied by the Tahoe and Woodland versions of the chrono. It’s certainly the brand’s most unique ceramic colorway, and I have a feeling the news of this...

Louis Erard’s Most Ambitious Collaboration Yet: a New Tourbillon with Old Friend Alain Silberstein Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s Most Ambitious Collaboration Oct 18, 2023

Louis Erard’s Most Ambitious Collaboration Yet: a New Tourbillon with Old Friend Alain Silberstein

This week, Louis Erard caps a fruitful, multiyear relationship with Alain Silberstein that has had a profound impact on the stock of both parties in the larger watch space. Silberstein, after a period where his watches were all the rage, had faded somewhat from our collective memory by 2021, and Louis Erard, too, was adrift. They made very high quality and unique watches for the money, but weren’t really the focus of enthusiasts and collectors. Now, through a series of collaborations with Silberstein and others, Louis Erard occupies a very different niche in the collector arena, and we’ve seen a renewed interest in Silberstein’s work as well in the years since his design language has been put spotlighted by these collaborations. Now, in what feels like a culmination of the work they’ve done together, Louis Erard has released a limited edition box set that adds a new color option to a prior collaboration, and, oh yeah, a tourbillon. No big deal.  The Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki is a new spin on their second collaboration, a collection of three watches (available as a collector’s set) featuring a unique titanium case framed with brancards. The watches in that collection featured a regulator, a day-date complication, and a chronograph, all with the hallmark Silberstein combination of colorful shapes in lieu of traditional hands. For this set, the black dials have been swapped for a dark green khaki, and the chronograph is now a tourbillon. It...

Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Oct 16, 2023

Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is among the great original chronograph designs to which the rules around aging just don’t seem to apply. Whether it’s the original and its many variations, or the modern reinterpretation, which we reviewed here, the Chronograph 1 is a benchmark when it comes to balancing form and function between the dial and case. Since re-introducing the Chronograph 1 in early 2022, a celebration of the watch’s 50th anniversary, Porsche Design has slowly been filling out the collection with interesting variations, largely in line with special releases from Porsche. This latest edition takes a different approach, recalling their past as a military watch, but with a civilian friendly nomenclature: Utility.  The newest addition to the Chronograph 1 collection recalls details from military watches of the ‘70s, with many of the small details represented in a slightly altered manner, from unit insignia, to the tritium marking “3H” circled in red – each are repurposed to create a new, more inclusive platform called Utility. Further still, this is more than a visual exercise as the biggest feature of the new watch is the use of titanium carbide for the case, a material developed and patented by Porsche Design. The material is touted as tougher and lighter than what we presume is the titanium variation of the watch, with a titanium glass bead blasted finish on its exterior. The light gray, matte appearance is uniform with contrasting crown and push...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a New Master Ultra Thin Moon with a Dramatic Gradient Blue Dial and Rose Gold Case Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 16, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a New Master Ultra Thin Moon with a Dramatic Gradient Blue Dial and Rose Gold Case

Sometimes a watch comes along and just kind of stops you in your tracks. We all, I think, have those moments where we stumble across a watch or see a new release and imagine that the brand has downloaded your thoughts and run them through some kind of artificial intelligence program designed to create watches that are uniquely appealing to you, and you alone. I think a lot of people are actually going to find the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon to be that kind of beautiful, but it happens to hit on a bunch of things that really sing to me in a watch like this.  The Master Ultra Thin watches are incredible pieces of engineering, with impossibly slim movements that translate to cases that provide a wearing experience like little else on the market. If I could ever identify a gripe with the line, though, it’s that the dials have never really blown me away. They are very nice, to be sure, but they have a tendency to be relentlessly dressy, and a bit sober. That’s perfectly fine of course for a watch in this genre, but they tend not to have that “wow” factor. They’re watches for connoisseurs who know exactly what they’re looking for.  The newest entry in the Master Ultra Thin collection has all the watchmaking chops and refined sensibilities of every other watch in their corner of the JLC family tree, but this one leads with the dial in a way that others don’t. The new Master Ultra Thin Moon features a dark gradient blue dial, borrowing a bit of that...