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Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Introducing: Ripe For Release, The BAIT x G-Shock 'Yamagata's Finest' DW5600 Hodinkee
Sep 29, 2026

Introducing: Ripe For Release, The BAIT x G-Shock 'Yamagata's Finest' DW5600

What We Know Whether you eat your banana traditionally or the long way, BAIT sees you and wants you to know your food-oriented horological stylings don't have to be confined to egg timers or rolling some beautiful bean footage. To honor that sometimes green, sometimes yellow, sometimes brown, sometimes in your freezer fruit (which is surprisingly grown in greenhouses in the cold Yamagata Prefecture, where G-Shocks are often made), the new collaboration is a speckled DW5600 like you know and love, just bananafied. What more can you say? The DW5600 is the G-Shock for a lot of people, and measures 42.8mm by 13.4mm in a resin plastic case. Now it's yellow, with brown accents in the text (and on the bezel and even a faux-sticker on the strap) and a just-ripe tip to the strap. The packaging is a special can and box with a brand-new makeshift mascot, "Shawty with Freckles" — think Chiquita banana without the copyright violation. But the made-up brand and made-up bananas have to come from somewhere. That place is BAIT FARMS, and they're releasing a bunch of other apparel (hat, T-shirt, a blue-and-white striped workshirt, and a cotton canvas work jacket) so you can get to work at the farm. Otherwise, it's possible you'll have no bananas. You'll have no bananas today. One of the best features is always the backlight, and this time you get the kissing banana as the background on the watch. Pricing hasn't been shared for the accessories, but we're a watch website, so we'll just stic...

Formex Introduces the New AirField Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces Sep 29, 2026

Formex Introduces the New AirField

Earlier this year when Formex unveiled the Aria, which is unquestionably their most ambitious watch to date, with a price point to match, there was a lot of talk among enthusiasts about what a higher price point could signal. The fear that Formex could be leaving behind more affordable watches (even though, for what the Aria is, it’s quite affordable – but that’s a separate topic) was something we saw articulated all over the Watch Internet. Of course, there was never any real danger of Formex abandoning value oriented watches, and the release of the new AirField, built on their popular field watch format, proves that point.  What we have here is fairly straightforward. The AirField borrows the titanium case architecture of the Formex Field, and adds a reconfigured dial and hand set with a more directly aviation inspired look. The design brief here seems to be immediate legibility and clarity, filtered through a Formex aesthetic in a way that feels similar to how the Formex Field took easy wearing utility in the same direction. The basic touch points of pilot watches that we all understand are very much present here: broad, sword shaped hands, matched with clean and easy to read Arabic numerals (filled with lume, of course). Formex has even included the traditional 12:00 triangle in this dial execution.  The case measures 40mm in diameter and Formex says it weighs just 54 grams. It also has a surface treatment that the brand claims results in a surface hardness rat...

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin s 30th Anniversary Overseas Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition

What We Know The hottest Vacheron Constantin collection is celebrating its thirtieth anniversary this year, and the brand is paying tribute with a new version of one of my personal favorite watches from the brand. Sure, earlier this year we got the return of the 2500V, which is celebration enough, but the new limited-edition azure blue Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a limited edition that honors the first generation of the collection. Below is a picture of the current third generation and the 1996 first generation, itself a successor of sorts to the 222 in 1977 and the 1975 Chronomètre Royal before it. Yes, Vacheron has done a blue version of this watch before—and has released a few other colors recently, including a bold red—but now the same 41.5mm by 8.1mm white gold case gets a more muted, less saturated azure blue soleil and lacquer treatment, with white and light blue printed text and applied indices with Super-LumiNova. The movement is the same Caliber 1120 QP/1 automatic movement that is only 4.05 mm thick. Yes, other brands are slowly introducing perpetual calendars with a crown-adjustment system, but while this still uses caseband pushers, the benefit is a watch that measures 1.5mm thinner than the similarly wide Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The watch runs at a slightly slower 2.75 Hz and has only 40 hours of power reserve, but again, at the thin profile you get, the wearability should more than make up for any small downsides. Another huge benefit i...

Introducing: Panerai Honors The Pre-Vendome Luminor With A Smaller 42mm Offering Hodinkee
Panerai Honors Sep 22, 2026

Introducing: Panerai Honors The Pre-Vendome Luminor With A Smaller 42mm Offering

What We Know Don't call it a comeback—they've been here for years, but if today's release is any indication, Panerai seems on the verge of "having a moment," or whatever you'd call it in a hyper-masculine, intensely Italian way. The feedback for a while, even from people who love the brand, is that the brand (which was on the forefront or even progenitor of the large watch trend that dominated the early 2000s) hadn't adapted as well or as quickly as big watch brands. Size was one sticking point; price another. Privately, I have heard multiple people say that if Panerai could fight it out closer to Tudor pricing, they'd be printing money at a new clip. Today, the brand is showing that it's listening, with three new (and newly smaller) 42mm Luminors at an attractive price. Let's go back to 1993, to the pre-Vendome days of Panerai. Brand representatives stood aboard the Italian destroyer Durand de la Penne (D560) to revive the Luminor's design language—the big case, bold numerals, and unusual crown lock—and bring it to a civilian audience. The original references, Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A and Luminor Marina Militare ref. 5218-202/A, became collectible icons, and the latter was revived last year with the PAM05218, in a 44mm case with a new automatic movement. If you looked closely at that caliber—the P.980 with hours, minutes, and hacking seconds—you'd see it was small enough to fit in an even smaller case. Yes, it's similar in architecture to a few in-group IWC and B...

First Look - Inspired by a Cult French Novel, Czapek Unveils the Promenade L’Ecume des Jours Monochrome
Czapek Unveils Sep 18, 2026

First Look - Inspired by a Cult French Novel, Czapek Unveils the Promenade L’Ecume des Jours

Czapek launched the Promenade collection in 2024, an elegant line of compact, time-only dress watches that, in the words of CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel, serve as a “canvas for creative expression.” The latest addition to the family is the Promenade L’Écume des Jours, a tribute to the 1947 novel by French author Boris Vian, translated into […]

Business News: Watches And Wonders 2027 To Feature More New Brands Including Berneron And Porsche Design Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Sep 17, 2026

Business News: Watches And Wonders 2027 To Feature More New Brands Including Berneron And Porsche Design

Watches and Wonders, the year's largest and most significant horology event, held each spring in Geneva, will welcome ten more brands for the 2027 edition, including Berneron, Porsche Design, and Singer Reimagined, bringing the total to 75. This new group will join Breitling's House of Brands, which announced earlier this year that it will participate.   Watches and Wonders organizers said the diversity of the 13 brands attending the show for the first time in 2027 underscores the varied slate of watch industry participants now part of the event, ranging from Rolex, Cartier and Patek Philippe, to now Stollenwurm, an upstart Swiss high-horology marque named for a mythical creature and founded by a former Boston-based biotech executive.   Berneron will also join the roster for Watches and Wonders 2027. Launched in 2022 and led by designer (and ex-Breitling executive) Sylvain Berneron, the brand has earned accolades from the industry and collectors; its limited production, shaped case, and full-gold movement pieces have soared in value on the secondary market. A rare example of the Mirage in 34mm, the white gold Viridian with a chrysoprase dial, sold by the brand to a client for about CHF 51,000, recently fetched $521,400 on the auction site Loupe This.  The Berneron Quantième is the brand's second model line.Photo credit: Mark Kauzlarich  Berneron recently told Hodinkee in an interview that the prices paid for his watches on the secondary market are "unsustainable," and...

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models Fratello
Rolex Models When it comes Sep 17, 2026

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models

When it comes to vintage watches, few brands have as much depth as Rolex. Over more than a century, the company has produced an enormous range of models, references, and variations that have become firmly established among collectors. From tool watches built for specific purposes to understated everyday models, there’s plenty to explore beyond the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models to read the full article.

Introducing: Supernova Serena Williams Gets Her Own Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Serena Williams Sep 15, 2026

Introducing: Supernova Serena Williams Gets Her Own Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Serena Williams has been playing professional tennis since 1995. In the decades since, she has won 23 Grand Slam singles titles, but perhaps more importantly, she has broken through barriers of race, age, and background while upending tennis's traditional dress codes. Clothes, and by extension accessories, have always been part of that story. In 2022, New York Times chief fashion critic Vanessa Friedman called Williams "the game-changing tennis player" who used her clothes "as a statement of self and a weapon of change." Williams understood early on that what she wore on court could be another form of expression: sometimes provocative, sometimes playful. At the 2002 US Open, she broke conservative norms in a skin-tight black Puma catsuit, accessorized with a Harry Winston diamond bracelet. Seventeen years later, at the 2019 French Open, she wore a Nike look designed by Virgil Abloh for Off-White printed with the words "Mother, Champion, Queen, Goddess" in French, an especially pointed choice given that, just a year earlier, the tournament had taken issue with the black Nike catsuit she wore on court. Serena Williams at the 2024 Met Gala, wearing an Audemars Piguet Sandgold Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked . That influence has extended far beyond the baseline. A Vogue cover star, Met Gala co-chairwoman, perennial tennis-court style-setter, and personal friend of Anna Wintour, Williams occupied the increasingly porous space between sport and fashion long before the res...

Beyond the Familiar: A History of A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Collection SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 3, 2026

Beyond the Familiar: A History of A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Collection

Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born in Dresden on February 18th, 1815. Thirty years later he’d found his eponymous company, and 145 years after that a new A. Lange & Söhne would rise from the proverbial ashes of East Germany. The A. Lange & Söhne we know today debuted in 1994 when the brand launched four watches: the Arkade, Saxonia, Lange 1, and the flagship Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, which established a set of visual codes that would later define the 1815 collection. Today, the 1815 family is primarily known for its many time-only variants, the 1815 Up/Down, and, of course, the 1815 Chronograph. However, the 1815 collection also includes some of the brand’s most extraordinary, unusual, and rarely seen models. Lange 1815 Emil Lange Moon Phase (1999) The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite of 1994 defined the 1815 collection’s design codes, specifically the printed Arabic dial that is vaguely reminiscent of a pocket watch despite being an almost from-scratch design. However, it was not officially badged as an 1815. That designation arrived the following year with the refs. 206.021 in yellow gold and 206.025 in white gold. These introductions saw the rectangular movement inside the Arkade and Saxonia reformatted to make it presentable through a display case back. The extra space was put to use in the followup 1815 Up/Down, which added the namesake power reserve indicator and recreated the running seconds. In 1999, Lange launched the 1815 Moonphase Emil Lange (1849-1921) to mark...

Beyond the Familiar: A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Retrospective SJX Watches
Angelus t Sep 3, 2026

Beyond the Familiar: A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Retrospective

Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born in Dresden on February 18, 1815. Thirty years later he’d found the eponymous company, and 145 years after that a reborn A. Lange & Söhne would rise from the proverbial ashes of East Germany. The A. Lange & Söhne we know today debuted in 1994 when the brand launched four watches: Arkade, Saxonia, Lange 1, and the flagship Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, which established a set of visual codes that would later define the 1815 collection. Today, the 1815 family is primarily known for its many time-only variants, the 1815 Up/Down, and, of course, the 1815 Chronograph. However, the 1815 collection also includes some of the brand’s most extraordinary, unusual, and rarely seen models. Photo credits: @lelangelust and @scatteringphotons Lange 1815 Emil Lange Moon Phase, c. 1999 The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite of 1994 defined the 1815 collection’s design codes, specifically the printed Arabic dial that is vaguely reminiscent of a pocket watch despite being an almost from-scratch design. However, it was not officially badged as an 1815. That designation arrived the following year with the refs. 206.021 in yellow gold and 206.025 in white gold. These introductions saw the rectangular movement inside the Arkade and Saxonia reformatted to make it presentable through a display case back. The extra space was put to use in the followup 1815 Up/Down, which added the namesake power reserve indicator and recreated the running seconds. In 1999, Lange launched...

Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know Oh hey. It's me, your resident Muppets enthusiast here at the 'Dink. I'm a proud owner of the first collaboration between Oris and The Muppets, the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, and last year, I covered the follow-up ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition, which took the creative exercise in a very different direction. In all honesty, I thought that might have been the end of the partnership between Oris and Disney regarding the Muppets, but it looks like they're not quite done yet. Today, Oris announces its Muppets hat trick with the new ProPilot X Gonzo Edition. Gonzo in his peppery shirt. © Disney. The third entry continues to see an iconic Muppets character introduced and incorporated into a different model within the ProPilot X line. Kermit showed his face on the date window of the 39mm ProPilot X Cal. 400 in titanium, and Miss Piggy hid on the winding rotor of the 34mm ProPilot X in steel. For the third entry in the Muppets series, Oris has taken "go big or go home" in a much more literal sense by pairing the Great Gonzo, the death-defying stuntmuppet, with the largest watch in the ProPilot X line, the ProPilot X Calibre 115. The titanium case of this grade 2 titanium ProPilot X has a diameter of 44mm, a thickness of 12.6mm, and an expansive lug-to-lug measurement of 52mm. But the case is large because the movement is very large, with the manually wound Calibre 115 inside featuring a giant mainspring barrel that gives the watch a whopping ten days of power reserve....

An Artistic Homage To Venice: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Turner Series” Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Turner Aug 29, 2026

An Artistic Homage To Venice: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Turner Series”

Jaeger-LeCoultre once again turns its iconic Reverso Tribute into a canvas for fine art. Hailing from the manufacturer’s Métiers Rares atelier, these four new creations celebrate the Venice-inspired works of J. M. W. Turner. The watches debut at the Homo Faber Biennial exhibition, which takes place in Venice throughout September. Curated by the Michelangelo Foundation […] Visit An Artistic Homage To Venice: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Turner Series” to read the full article.

Channel Your Inner Navy SEAL With The Doxa × Belmont Watches SUB 300 Beta “Frogger” Fratello
Doxa × Belmont Watches SUB Aug 25, 2026

Channel Your Inner Navy SEAL With The Doxa × Belmont Watches SUB 300 Beta “Frogger”

Doxa and Belmont Jewelers collaborated on this limited edition SUB 300 Beta, which they are calling “Frogger”. This is the kind of watches that make a suburban Gen-Zer — yours truly — feel way more badass than he should. Because this collaboration of 100 individually numbered pieces gets its name from the Navy frogmen and […] Visit Channel Your Inner Navy SEAL With The Doxa × Belmont Watches SUB 300 Beta “Frogger” to read the full article.

Happenings: Hodinkee Happy Hour Returns To SoHo This Thursday Hodinkee
Aug 24, 2026

Happenings: Hodinkee Happy Hour Returns To SoHo This Thursday

Earlier this month, we had the pleasure of hosting our Hodinkee Happy Hour at One Vanderbilt. If you missed it, don't fret! We're excited to announce the next installment of Hodinkee Happy Hour, which will take place at the Watches of Switzerland store in SoHo, just a stone's throw from the Hodinkee office. Expect the same casual format as our Hodinkee Happy Hours, with great food, drinks, and watches. Space is limited, so be sure to RSVP using the link below to secure your spot. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with other members of the Hodinkee team. We'd love for you to join us, whether it's your first time or you've already attended several Hodinkee events. There will be plenty of food from Upside Pizza and beers from our friends at Grotta to go around. Date:Thursday, August 27, 2026, 4:30 - 6:30 PM Location:Watches of Switzerland, SoHo60 Greene StreetNew York, NY 10012 Click here to RSVP.

Recommended Reading: 'Universal People, Universal Dreams' Is A Timely, Heartfelt Telling Of One Man's Collecting Journey Into The Rarest Of The Rare Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Aug 24, 2026

Recommended Reading: 'Universal People, Universal Dreams' Is A Timely, Heartfelt Telling Of One Man's Collecting Journey Into The Rarest Of The Rare

Last week I kicked off a mini-series where I'm finally taking some great books off my shelf and sharing them with the world. We covered a brand-backed "Grand Seiko" book by ERG Media, which set a great tone. This week we're looking at another brand-focused tome, the much more recently released "Universal People, Universal Dreams," which documents the hyper-focused collection of one man. But it's more than a book about Universal Genève. I first met the author and publisher, Luca Mignini, a few years ago, though I'm not exactly sure where. Maybe at an auction in Geneva? At some point, he just turned into a fixture in my vintage watch sphere, a person who could turn up anywhere there was a vintage watch. At the famed antique fair in Parma, Italy? Sure. Luca Mignini and Max Bernardini He had a prototype Universal Genève Space Compax/Polerouter Sub dive watch made for the U.S. Navy, which I shared in my photo report from the fair. On that same trip, he just randomly showed up as I was looking at Patek 1518 dials with Max Bernardini (Uncle Max, to his close friends) at his shop right across the street from "The Last Supper" in Milan. That later encounter makes sense, as Bernardini (and his team, including Mauricio Gimenez, who is named as "The Trusted Advisor" in the book) was instrumental in curating the collection. Mignini frequently travels between his home in Rome and Milan, where he serves as a professor at Bocconi University.  During the COVID-19 pandemic, Mignini and B...

Introducing: The Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph And Senator Chronograph Navigator Hodinkee
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Aug 20, 2026

Introducing: The Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph And Senator Chronograph Navigator

What We Know Today, Glashütte Original introduces two new flyback chronographs, replacing the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date models currently in the collection. While both models fall under the brand's Senator line, the new Senator Chronograph and Senator Chronograph Navigator could not be more opposed in aesthetics and spirit. First is the new Senator Chronograph Navigator, which departs significantly from the Senator line's overarching classical design language. With only a few exceptions, you're most likely expecting to see at least a few Roman numerals on any Senator dial. But the Navigator takes the chronograph down a much more utilitarian route, with what I believe is the brand's only conventional tool-watch design outside the SeaQ dive watch lineup. The matte black dial features three-dimensional, solid, luminescent applied Arabic hour numerals, while the rest of the dial text is printed in white to provide sharp contrast and improve legibility. The large subdials for the running seconds and elapsed minutes are snailed in texture, while a recessed faceting frames the oversized Panorama Date at six o'clock. The sword hands here are filled with a generous proportion of Super-LumiNova, and the remaining hands are all finished in white lacquer. The Senator Chronograph, sans Navigator, streamlines the layout of the outgoing Senator Chronograph Panorama Date for a more conventional look while still feeling familiar. A galvanic silver dial in soft white holds solid-gol...

Hands On: Credor Locomotive “Dawn Blue” GCCR995 SJX Watches
Credor Aug 20, 2026

Hands On: Credor Locomotive “Dawn Blue” GCCR995

A new day is dawning for Credor, which made its Watches & Wonders debut with the Locomotive “Dawn Blue” ref. GCCR995. Designed by Gerald Genta, the Locomotive was once the brand’s flagship sports model in the same vein as its more famous Swiss siblings, but with a quirky integrated-unintegrated bracelet. The obvious quality of the titanium case and bracelet make up for a weak spec sheet, but leave room for the Locomotive to grow alongside the newly international Credor marque. Initial thoughts The Locomotive is a great example of a watch that is more than the sum of its parts. In fact, it’s (almost) inexplicably nice for a watch with such a strange design, a mundane movement, and a micro-adjust-less pin-and-collar bracelet. While it’s cliché to say a watch looks better in person than photographs — and underestimates what a good photographer can do — I would say the Locomotive feels much better in person, like a watch of its price point should. The defining update for this edition of the Locomotive is its embossed dial, which features a repeating hexagon motif. The grooves that fill each cell are oriented at different angles, giving the dial a shimmering personality that changes with shifting light. At some angles, the dial is a uniform blue, while other angles produce an almost chequerboard-like effect. This backdrop is coated with layers of clear lacquer, enabling the Credor wordmark and (superfluous) “Automatic” text to float neatly above the three-d...

Introducing - Tutima Expands its Fleet with the Compact Flieger T5 in Titanium Monochrome
Tutima Aug 18, 2026

Introducing - Tutima Expands its Fleet with the Compact Flieger T5 in Titanium

Tutima, based in Glashütte, earned its wings in the 1940s with its military and pilot’s watches and, in 1941, produced Germany’s first two-pusher flyback chronograph (later referred to as the Flieger). In 2019, Tutima released a contemporary, less tool-oriented, time-and-date take on the Flieger. The latest model to join the squadron is the Flieger T5, […]

A Dashboard Clock Gives Birth to the Louis Vuitton x Singer Porsche 911 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Aug 17, 2026

A Dashboard Clock Gives Birth to the Louis Vuitton x Singer Porsche 911

A cult brand specialising in “restomod” Porsche 911s, specifically the 964, Singer Vehicle Design’s latest commission is pair reimagined by Louis Vuitton. The Porsche 911 Reimagined by Singer – Classic and – Classic Turbo are striking examples of engineering, artisanal craft, and luxury branding all rolled into one. The pair of 911s originated with an order for a mechanical dashboard clock for a prior Singer commission, which led the two brands to collaborate on this duo. Both cars are naturally fitted with a hand-wound, eight-day clock fitted into the dashboard, but which can be removed and transformed into a desk clock. And the Turbo also include an ivory ceramic Tambour wristwatch as a bonus. The dash clock inside the 911 Classic Initial thoughts Interestingly, this pair of 911s is more of a collaboration between Singer and Louis Vuitton’s watch division rather than the wider company. The dashboard clock request that gave birth to these two cars began with a Singer 911 parked outside a Louis Vuitton watch event several years ago. The two 911s underline the long established common denominations between cars and watches, ranging from fine engineering to a shared audience. Many have come before, from Porsche Design and IWC, Ferrari and Girard-Perregaux, to today’s McLaren and Richard Mille. The Singer 911s stand out for being one-offs – both are beautifully executed – and priced at a level that reflects the strength of the demand for ultra-high-end objec...

The Top 5 Rolex Models From The 1990s Fratello
Rolex Models From Aug 14, 2026

The Top 5 Rolex Models From The 1990s

Friday is here, which means it’s time for another list! This week, we follow up on a discussion we had on Fratello Talks two weeks ago. In that episode, Robert-Jan, Nacho, and I discussed the ultimate decade for watches. RJ and I chose the nineties as our favorite decade for watches because new technology significantly […] Visit The Top 5 Rolex Models From The 1990s to read the full article.

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV SJX Watches
Voutilainen demonstrate demand Aug 14, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

Introducing - Round Two of the Albishorn Marinagraph Classic and Classic Fumé Monochrome
Albishorn Marinagraph Classic Aug 13, 2026

Introducing - Round Two of the Albishorn Marinagraph Classic and Classic Fumé

Albishorn, an independent Swiss brand founded in 2024 by Sébastien Chaulmontet, focuses on “imaginary vintage” watches, “what if” models that are visually grounded in the past – but which never existed. A year after its debut, Albishorn released the Marinagraph, a robust skin diver with a patented 10-minute regatta countdown function that “could have” been […]

Hands-on - Nomos Hits the Sweet Spot with the Tangente Neomatik 38 Update Monochrome
Nomos Hits Aug 10, 2026

Hands-on - Nomos Hits the Sweet Spot with the Tangente Neomatik 38 Update

Unlike the noise generated by the release of the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers in 2025, Nomos Glashütte’s novelties at Watches & Wonders this year focused more on refined versions of its core collection. Among these refinements was the Tangente Neomatik 38 Update, featuring the brand’s patented peripheral ring date complication, which returned in a more […]