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Grand Seiko Introduces the Hand-Wind Spring Drive “Asaborake” SBGY011 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Nov 10, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hand-Wind Spring Drive “Asaborake” SBGY011

Having launched several elegant and concise time-only watches this year, Grand Seiko has unveiled something once again simple but still unusual: the first regular-production, manual-wind Spring Drive 44GS, the Heritage Collection SBGY011 “Asaborake”. The SBGY011 combines two of the best elements of Grand Seiko (GS), namely the hybrid Spring Drive movement and the distinctive 44GS case. While the combination has been seen before, the SBGY011 brings something new to the table because the movement is manual wind, instead of self-winding as most Spring Drive calibres are. Initial thoughts I appreciate the SBGY011 because it retains the key features of the original, namely the 44GS case, silver dial, and hand-wind movement – but reinterpreted to incorporate contemporary elements such as the Spring Drive movement and patterned dial. Combined with the 44GS case, the silver dial gives the SBGY011 an aesthetic that’s close to the vintage 44GS of 1967. In fact, it’s essentially a modern, more technically-capable version of the original, which also contained a hand-wind mechanical movement. In fact, the SBGY011 is only the second hand-wind Spring Drive watch with a 44GS case, and the first and only one that’s not a limited edition. The hand-wind movement matters because the 44GS case is exponentially more attractive when it’s thin; in this case it is only 10.5 mm high. In comparison, a typical automatic Spring Drive is around 13 mm thick. Notably, despite being a regul...

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nov 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection

For me, Minase are one of the few brands who can beat Grand Seiko in their level of artful dials, finishing quality and ingenuity. In addition, their originality extends to their case design as well. Add in their reasonably low prices, and this Japanese brand is probably one of the best value options out there … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

100 Best Instagram Accounts for Watch Enthusiasts Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 9, 2022

100 Best Instagram Accounts for Watch Enthusiasts

There is tons of content on Instagram for watch enthusiasts - almost too much of it, some might argue. But how do you know you’re getting what you’re looking for as you scroll down your feed? For that matter, which of the many dozens of accounts devoted to engaging the #watchcommunity should you be following based on your own interests and favorites? After asking our audience for their favorite watch-related accounts, we’ve compiled the 100 best Instagram pages for watch lovers, divided into categories. There’s something here for everyone, whether you’re seeking out celebrity wrist shots, rare vintage pieces, specific brands in the spotlight, cheeky watch-world memes, or just really eye-catching watch-lifestyle photography. Affordables @affordablewristtime A showcase of watches under $1,000, linked to a review website. @practicalwatch  Spotlighting watches with a price ceiling of $1,500. Brand Specific @billiosophy A Hong Kong watch collector shows off his collection, mostly German pieces, heavy on A. Lange & Söhne. @rolexaholics Just what you'd expect: a plethora of Rolexes from a variety of collections. @gshock626.socal  Despite the handle, this page is all about showing Seiko. @creatingcartier A member of the Cartier family shares stories of watches and jewelry. @lapinist_watchrestoration  Watch restorer of Grand Seiko cases and movements shows his work   @rolex_lover Rolex photos and wrist rolls, updated daily. Celebrity Watches @insaneluxurylife Cel...

Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case Time+Tide
Grand Seiko debuts Nov 9, 2022

Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case

Grand Seiko is known for their colorful and textured dials born from natural muses. The Japanese philosophy of translating their surrounding nature into their craft has long distinguished their creations but, in regard to the Grand Seiko catalogue, has resulted in an ample menu of dial flavours to choose from. For the watch geek looking … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger

A company had to muster real tenacity to make it through the Quartz Crisis, but Delma managed to thrive instead of survive during those tough years, continuing to honour the art of traditional mechanical watchmaking. Despite this, they’re not talked about as much as they perhaps deserve to be, and so we’ve been taking a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual Time+Tide
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Nov 8, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual

Collaborative limited editions are nothing new to the industry. It would seem over the last few years we see one debut every month, and the trend is still going strong. But with so many hitting the market, it is more important than ever for all parties involved to realise something that is truly fresh that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux Automaton: A Magical Way To Pass Time (Plus Video) Quill & Pad
Nov 7, 2022

Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux Automaton: A Magical Way To Pass Time (Plus Video)

On activation, the water starts to ripple as if touched by the wind on the Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine aux Oiseaux. The birds engage in an intricate mating ritual so real that it feels as if each bird has a character of its own. The dragonfly zips across the water as the waterlily opens to reveal an inner life set with precious stones. And that's not all!

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey Limited Edition Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Nov 7, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey Limited Edition

With a collection name like Big Bang, the word “discrete” usually would not come to mind. But the Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey and its monochromatic look provides a stealthier aesthetic within the collection.     As an industry leader in material innovation, we often see bold colours and designs from Hublot. But with … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year” SJX Watches
Casio nal practice Nov 7, 2022

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year”

Continuing with its occasional practice of special editions to mark the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC debuts the Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of Water Rabbit that begins in early 2023. The limited edition retains the style of the classic Portugieser but dressed up with a riveting burgundy dial with gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts As an admirer of vintage timepieces, I find few watches that match the distinctive simplicity of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939. So the Portugieser Automatic 40 is easy to like since it echoes the feel of the vintage original. The Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” stands out with its unusual dial. Bright red is the traditional colour of Lunar New Year, but its darker counterpart is a more appropriate hue for a dress watch. While the design still evokes the original – the gold hands and numerals give it a vintage feel – the burgundy dial is more dynamic than the conventional silver alternative, giving it a more versatile feel than the formal original. More importantly, the new Portugieser is not merely a fancy dial catered to Asian buyers. The case back reveals the in-house movement that’s one of the better automatic movements in this price segment. Lastly, the Chinese New Year edition costs US$1,000 more than the standard edition, which is an acceptable premium for the new dial as well as the commemorative rabbit rotor. The only downside for a co...

The Apple Watch is the enemy of mindfulness – mechanical watches will keep you sane Time+Tide
Nov 6, 2022

The Apple Watch is the enemy of mindfulness – mechanical watches will keep you sane

You know what sounds nice? Mindfulness. You know - being in the moment. Noting your breath, checking in on the breeze, and focusing on the feeling of your ass in the chair and your feet on the ground. All that good stuff. I wouldn’t really know, though. I’ve been trying to make some mindfulness progress … ContinuedThe post The Apple Watch is the enemy of mindfulness – mechanical watches will keep you sane appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has never Nov 6, 2022

VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction

Despite being over 50 years old, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has never ceased to be a thought provoker. Even though the signature octagonal design has well and truly been accepted into the collective consciousness of watch design, having thousands of copies and homages, there are still so many mysteries surrounding how the physical object … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 Ways To Spot A Fake Watch, Even If You Don’t Know How To Spot A Fake Watch – Reprise Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Nov 6, 2022

6 Ways To Spot A Fake Watch, Even If You Don’t Know How To Spot A Fake Watch – Reprise

One evening, WMMT was sipping away at his ex-wife’s stock of 1945 Pétrus with his buddy Slippery Steve and contemplating a few of the essential questions in life, the kind that rarely find a real answer. Is there life after death? Can you really wear brown shoes after 6:00 PM? Is his Audemars Piguet a fake? Following on that conversation, Slippery Steve and WMMT offer you six easy ways to recognize if your watch is fake. No prior knowledge needed and entertaining photography guaranteed!

Top 5 questions I get when people find out I’m a watch reviewer Time+Tide
Nov 6, 2022

Top 5 questions I get when people find out I’m a watch reviewer

There are a lot of unique jobs in the world, and careers are very rarely planned out accurately. The wristwatch world adopted me in a whirlwind, and I went from preferring not to wear a watch to writing for Time+Tide within the space of about a year. Even if you told me when I was … ContinuedThe post Top 5 questions I get when people find out I’m a watch reviewer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

anOrdain Model 1 Payne’s Grey Fumé: 50 Shades Of Grey Never Looked So Tempting – Reprise Quill & Pad
anOrdain Nov 6, 2022

anOrdain Model 1 Payne’s Grey Fumé: 50 Shades Of Grey Never Looked So Tempting – Reprise

anOrdain is not your average watch company. Located in Glasgow, Scotland, its name derives from a remote loch deep in the Scottish Highlands. There, Lewis Heath, a trained architect, first got the idea of creating a modern watch brand honoring traditional crafts. And the new Model 1 Payne's Grey Fumé exemplifies how anOrdain not only honors these crafts but superbly progresses them.

Why I Bought It: Kurono By Hajime Asaoka Anniversary Green Mori – Good News, It‘s Relatively Affordable; Bad News, It’s Hard To Get – Reprise Quill & Pad
Hajime Asaoka Nov 5, 2022

Why I Bought It: Kurono By Hajime Asaoka Anniversary Green Mori – Good News, It‘s Relatively Affordable; Bad News, It’s Hard To Get – Reprise

Often with incoming pieces GaryG resists the temptation to wear a watch until he has had the chance to photograph it in pristine condition, but in the spirit of fun he chucked out the principle of restraint and slapped his new Hajime Asaoka Kurono Anniversary Green Mori right on his wrist. When you read Gary's story and see his photos you will know why.

The LeJour Brooklyn throws its hat in the ring for best affordable Datejust alternative Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2022

The LeJour Brooklyn throws its hat in the ring for best affordable Datejust alternative

LeJour is one of those rare success stories of an extinct Swiss brand being revived with a modern catalogue, and they continue to move from strength to strength with the LeJour Brooklyn collection - putting some unique twists on much-loved elements from dress and field watches. If you’ve been looking for an interesting and reliable … ContinuedThe post The LeJour Brooklyn throws its hat in the ring for best affordable Datejust alternative appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve

Some say that it’s a fashion faux-pas to mix black with brown, but rules are meant to be broken. Just as steel and gold can work together if you’ve got the attitude, a two-tone colour scheme of black and brown can bring some gloriously retro vibes to your wrist, sharing in the indulgent and decadent … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Conversation with Alexandre Mille, Richard Mille’s Next Generation Leadership Revolution
Richard Mille s Next Generation Leadership Nov 4, 2022

In Conversation with Alexandre Mille, Richard Mille’s Next Generation Leadership

In the pantheon of watch brands that should be considered as the all-time greats, Richard Mille can undoubtedly be part of the conversation for the role it has played in breaking every known convention of traditional watchmaking, and its global impact in redefining contemporary collecting culture. Wei caught up with one of the next generation […]

Zenith Introduces the Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin” SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Nov 4, 2022

Zenith Introduces the Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin”

An Australian rules football player who’s a Zenith ambassador, Lance “Buddy” Franklin recently scored his 1000th goal and is now ranked fifth amongst the all-time highest scorers of the Australian Football League (AFL). To celebrate the occasion, Mr Franklin turned to Zenith to create something special, resulting in the two-piece limited-edition Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin”. Mr Franklin will keep one watch while the other example is going under the hammer at online auctioneer Loupe This with all proceeds going to the Australian Literacy and Numeracy Foundation, a national charity that brings education to marginalised communities. The auction is now live on Loupe This and ends on on November 7, 2022 at 2:00 am GMT-5 (New York) or 3:00 pm GMT+8 (Singapore). Registration for bidding and full lot details can be accessed here. Lance “Buddy” Franklin Initial thoughts A larger and more rugged version of the Defy 21, the Defy Extreme is a big, sporty watch with an open-worked dial – a seemingly familiar formula. But the Buddy Franklin edition is different with its two-tone case and red dial. It moves away from the typical design of such watches and instead has a more restrained aesthetic that helps tame the 45 mm case size. The only downside of the watch is the fact that only one will be publicly available, and at an auction rather than for a fixed priced. But with the estimate being the retail price of the regular production model, the Buddy Franklin editio...

Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Fans Nov 4, 2022

Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX

Fans of the best affordable integrated bracelet sports watch, rejoice! While possibly a bold claim, no other big box brand has managed to grasp the market quite as well as the Tissot PRX. Though successful, the Swatch Group brand has been pretty quiet with strap support for the PRX, despite its quick-release bracelet and the … ContinuedThe post Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Making a Mark: Understanding the 1931 Alphabet Typeface by Jaeger Le-Coultre SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre JLC has been exploring Nov 4, 2022

Making a Mark: Understanding the 1931 Alphabet Typeface by Jaeger Le-Coultre

Watchmakers have long embarked on collaborations with artists, from Geneva jeweller Gilbert Albert and his Brâncuşi-inspired designs for Patek Philippe to the Zen creations by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando for Bulgari. Such collaborations are amongst the best ways for a watch brand to broaden its appeal. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has been exploring such relationships with “Made of Makers”, an initiative made up of collaborations with varied designers and artisans from other disciplines, including mixologist Matthias Giroud and the Michelin-starred pastry chef Nina Métayer. Its latest partnership is with Spanish typographer and illustrator Alex Trochut, who has penned a font specifically for the brand, the 1931 Alphabet. Alex Trochut Initial thoughts On its face, this might sound like the typical artistic collaboration embarked upon by a watchmaker. But this has a subtle twist in engaging with watch enthusiasts as it’s all about personalisation of the watch.  The 1931 Alphabet can transform a stock Reverso into something unique and something that would not be out of place Jay Gatsby’s wrist. It’s a prime example of typography as a decorative art in watchmaking. The attention to detail in the font design is evident in the kerning of the letters, which includes the use of negative space to create balance.  The 1931 Alphabet Given this typeface’s strikingly bold design, it is a perfect pair for the Reverso. Since its introduction in 1931, the model has evolve...