Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Leonardo DiCaprio Wears Two TAG Heuers For ‘The Wolf Of Wall Street’
One’s gold, and the other’s less gold in our watch-related movie of the week.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Second Opinions: The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Is Not A Submariner Alternative
It's its own thing, and that's totally okay.
![[Hands-On] The Bremoir Lexington, Art Deco Done Right](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/03/Bremoir-Lexington-Hands-On-4.webp)
Worn & Wound
[Hands-On] The Bremoir Lexington, Art Deco Done Right
One of the major principles of Art Deco design is to infuse beauty into functional, everyday objects and what better everyday object to do that with than a watch. Bremoir’s Lexington draws inspiration from the iconic Art Deco-styled Chrysler Building in NYC. Angled geometric patterns and intricate details throughout are easily traced from the watch directly back to the building. Whether it’s the angular applied indices or the stepped polished bezel, there’s a lot to take in, but it never seems like too much. What we have is a handsome 39mm watch that offers a nice break from modern design. As a fan of modern watches (mostly because of the lack of hassle) it’s especially nice to not have to go vintage to get the classic Art Deco styling seen on the Lexington. Let’s take a closer look at this unique new watch from Bremoir. $985 [Hands-On] The Bremoir Lexington, Art Deco Done Right Case Stainless Steel Movement Swiss STP 1-11 Automatic Dial Sector style with metallic finish Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 50M Dimensions 39×48.5mm Thickness 10.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $985 Case It’s easy to trace the case geometry back to the design seen in the Chrysler Building, and it’s executed well. The tonneau-shaped case features some heavy polished bevels on the sides that carry down into the lugs. Vertical brushing on the sides provides some nice contrast to the polished portions. On the right side of the case...
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: To Only Look At The Omega Seamaster In Steel Is To Miss – Well – Everything
Omega's use of varying materials in its famed dive line is underrated, and some of them are hiding in plain sight.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer Is So Wild, We Had Two Editors Review It (Video)
This Monza is more vibrant than vintage, featuring an impressive COSC-certified flyback chronograph. Here's our man Tony with the words, and Brandon with the video.
Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Gives Us the Best of All Worlds with Chronoking Meca-Quartz
Nivada Grenchen’s Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver represents their interpretation of a multi-functional steel sports chronograph teeming with vintage attributes. The collection’s signature – a two subdial display, tachymeter scale integrated into the outer dial, and a rotating bezel that subtly incorporates a 12 hour display giving the already highly capable chronograph the ability to track another timezone. The vintage aesthetic doesn’t just harken back to the designs of your classic steel sport of watch of the 60’s and 70’s, it actually pulls from the very same design cues of the original Nivada Grenchen chronographs. Nivada’s current Chronoking Manual in particular retains the collection’s design language, but doubles down on the age-old appearance with its chocolate-toned subdials and yellow markers. Topping it all off, the Chronoking encases a Sellita SW510 manual movement in a tidy 38mm case. These are all attractive features and the norm within the Chronoking, as well as the rest of the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver collection. The only caveat here is that their chronographs are positioned within a crowded price tier filled with brands offering something relatively similar in design and function. However recently, Nivada Grenchen released a very enticing iteration of their Chronoking in the Chronoking Meca-Quartz. Albeit sold out, the Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Meca-Quartz includes all the charming traits and functionality at an approachable $479. Vi...
Revolution
First Look: The Brand New Cartier Tank Francaise is a Paragon of Sports Chic
In 1996, Cartier the unrivalled King of Elegance, introduced the Tank Francaise, the first Tank with an integrated bracelet design which had gradually been gaining traction since the 1970s. It took the classicism of form from its icon of icons, the Tank, and married it with a bracelet that was at once masculine in its […]
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It (The Day Before It Was Discontinued): Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 With White Dial Reference 114300 – Reprise
After years of consideration, Bhanu Chopra took the plunge and bought both a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 mm and a Submariner Reference 114060. And less than 24 hours after finally taking ownership of them, Rolex discontinued both watches! Here he shares the story of how it all went down. Spoiler alert: he couldn't be happier!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Best GMT Watches We Recommend Purchasing This Year
These are our favorite GMT watches of the year and the one's we recommend most often for people to add to their collections.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Certina DS-2 Turning Bezel is a cushion-cased diver with a touch of retro flair
It’s funny to think that there was a point in time where a turning bezel was a major selling point, but by 1960 a dive watch with a rotating bezel hadn’t even existed for more than seven years. Embracing some of the quirkier elements of midcentury design and marrying them with modern style, the Certina … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Certina DS-2 Turning Bezel is a cushion-cased diver with a touch of retro flair appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Heritage TAG Heuer Monza, A Throwback To One Of The First PVD-Coated Watches Ever Made
Last week, TAG Heuer showed it had no intention of forgetting its racing heritage when they launched an online competition to pick out the next Autavia. And on the first day of Baselworld, they confirmed we would be seeing a lot more vintage-inspired chronographs, with a re-edition of the famous Monza.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A One-Man Brand Called Lorca Just Made The 36mm GMT Of My Dreams
The aptly named Model No. 1 is the first release from a Swiss-Canadian NewYorker named Jesse Marchant. And it's worth taking all around the world.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Longines Pilot Majetek Is Homage Done The Right Way (Live Pics)
This cushion-cased tool from the 1930s once aided Czech pilots – and now it's back for a civilian encore.
Hodinkee
Beginner's Guide: So You Got A New Watch...Now What?
Six ways to make sure your new treasure lasts forever and keeps telling time.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Mechanical Watch Fanatic Reviews The Apple Watch Ultra
It's the most advanced Apple Watch yet. And if your resolution is to get in shape, it’s ready when you are – but is all that technological prowess enough to wear down our reviewer's Luddite sensibilities?
Hodinkee
Introducing: Seiko Is Back In Black With Three Classic Releases
Three of the brand's most tried-and-true references get a blacked-out treatment.
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: Do You Really Need A Dive Watch? The Easy-Wearing Omega Aqua Terra Doesn’t Think So.
Omega's everyday steel sports watch is casual enough for the pool party and dressy enough for the office.
Worn & Wound
The Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks it into Sport Mode
The Timex Marlin at its core, is a dress watch. I’m referring to the first Marlin that comes to mind when you think of this particular model. You know, the one with the 34mm case, hour numerals using a vintage typeface, and an accompanying faux-gator leather strap. Believe it or not, this style of watch was normally worn during any activity back in its day. From working at the office, right into doing household chores during the weekend. Think Don Draper wearing a similarly styled watch while cutting the lawn. Sure we could do the same, but nowadays there’s just way too many good steel sports watches out there for them to just sit on the sidelines while they watch their dressier watchbox mate get all the wrist time. Timex’s latest iteration of their flagship dress watch aims to fill that void in their current Marlin collection by becoming a bit more sportier via a new-look dial. One look at the Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial could have you mistaken for a refined version of your quintessential Timex field watch, but it is in fact a Marlin. The main reason here is the new set of numerals used to demarcate the hours. The collection of numerals are more sizable, much bolder, and a new typeface all together. The font leans into Sans Serif territory and as a result, the numerals look friendlier and playful, while also being more legible at the same time. The natural boldness of this new typeface accentuates the curves of each numeral, especially the unique looking flat top “4...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On with the Very Reasonable Vulcain Skindiver Nautique
Vulcain made a triumphant return in 2022 with the launch of a new series of iconic Cricket alarm watches in varying sizes and colors. By using the seemingly foolproof recipe of recreating a vintage timepiece with little to no reinterpretation, and relying on the historical value of the name itself, the brand was able to shake off several years of being dormant. The result was a quick sell-through and a return to relevance. The question, of course, was how they would follow up and take advantage of their newfound spotlight. The answer is the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique, which might initially seem like a surprising follow-up. Why? Well, rather than sticking with their in-house calibers or most recognizable models, they went for a somewhat generic mid-century diver. Whether or not this was a good idea will be left to consumers, but it was smart of them to demonstrate that they are going to delve deep and wide into their archives for inspiration, as well as create products at different price points. Available in black or blue with a few strap options, the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is priced at around $1,600 (to be clear, it’s 1490 CHF, the USD is based on the exchange rate). $1600 Hands-On with the Very Reasonable Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Case Stainless Steel Movement ETA 2824-2 Dial Gloss Black Lume Yes Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Carbon Pattern Leather Water Resistance 20 ATM Dimensions 38 x 44.2mm Thickness 12.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty yes Price $1600 N...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet in steel is winning over doubters of the collection
The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet has been a hot subject of debate since its debut in 2019. It’s fair to say, as historically happened with other references of theirs like the Royal Oak, the collection was not immediately accepted with unanimous approval by watch enthusiasts. With great anticipation built around the release, and an … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet in steel is winning over doubters of the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Nomos Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold
Nomos extends their classical dress watch lineup - the Tangente with a new Neomatic in Blue Gold. Available in two sizes of 35mm and 39mm.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Go anywhere, do anything with the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Series
Hamilton’s latest additions to the Jazzmaster line present some attractive and versatile all-rounders The Jazzmaster Performer Automatic Chrono brings neo-vintage styling in an appealing package With two sizes offered in the Jazzmaster Performer Automatic range, it’s easy for virtually anyone to find a perfect fit Hamilton are well known for some truly iconic … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Go anywhere, do anything with the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Introduces a Roulette Automaton Watch
Jacob & Co. already has a roulette complication in its catalogue inside the Astronomia Casino, a variant of its signature watch. Now the jeweller has condensed the concept into the Casino Tourbillon, which does away with the orbital carousel to focus on the roulette automaton, although it still conceals a flying tourbillon on the back. Initial thoughts The Casino Tourbillon is very much a Jacob & Co. watch with its exuberant style and complication – but it is slightly more restrained in design than the brand’s usual offerings. While it’s far from a low-key watch with its 44 mm diameter and over-16mm height, it is modest for a Jacob & Co. watch. The roulette complication is interesting and smartly executed, though not exactly new. It is essentially a more sophisticated version of the Franck Muller Las Vegas, which instead relied on a simple execution made up of a fixed wheelhead and freely-spinning pointer hand. Priced at US$280,000, the Casino Tourbillon is pricey. Although the dial construction is complex, the roulette automaton is relatively straightforward, as is the flying tourbillon. It is, however, unique in today’s market. While casino-inspired complications were once popular (after the Franck Muller Las Vegas became a bestseller), they are uncommon today. So for the high roller who wants a novel casino-themed complication, this is probably it. Game of chance While Jacob & Co.’s watches are usually over the top, the Casino Tourbillon is relatively clean...
Time+Tide
The Time+Tide watch brand alignment chart
If you spend any considerable time on watch-related internet sites and Instagram, you would’ve seen people obsessively trying to categorise watch brands. Whether that be by their idea of luxuriousness, prestige, or the ever-popular tier list (watch this space). My favourite version of this ranking system is the alignment chart. Originating from the ever-popular role-playing … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide watch brand alignment chart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
IWC’s Portofino Collection Gets a New Complete Calendar to Complement Last Year’s Perpetual
Toward the tail end of 2022, IWC quietly introduced a new Portofino perpetual calendar (in gold and stainless steel) and it immediately caught our attention. I mean, it’s kind of an objectively beautiful watch, with an elegantly executed complication that we’re all quite fond of, and the fact IWC is making them in steel is really just icing on the perpetual calendar cake. Still, at $24,000, the steel version isn’t exactly anyone’s definition of affordable, even if we’re using imaginary money. So we were even more surprised to learn that IWC has once again sprung a very attractive calendar watch on us in a non-precious metal, still in the Portofino collection but with a different calendar complication. The new Portofino Complete Calendar shares an aesthetic with its perpetual big brother, but is less than half the price. It requires more adjustment from the user, but it’s still a classic calendar with a ton of charm. First things first, the Portofino seems to be hitting a newfound stride with these calendar watches. This has always been a solid IWC collection, if a little under the radar compared to the brand’s sportier offerings. But the Portofino speaks to the broad range of styles that IWC excels in. These are traditional dress watches, which are now increasingly outfitted with traditional complications based around IWC’s solid and reliable watchmaking. In terms of aesthetics, you’d be hard pressed to identify a distinguishing feature in these watches...
Worn & Wound
Tissot’s Chemin des Tourelles Collection Offers a Ton of Refinement at a Sub $1,000 Price Point
As someone who has been involved in watch collecting for a significant amount of time, I’m often asked for recommendations from people who are not really interested in watches as a hobby, but want or need a good watch to wear on a daily basis. I imagine this is a fairly common predicament for a lot of longtime collectors and enthusiasts, particularly as watches continue to occupy a larger space in the culture and the hobby grows. There are obviously a lot of different ways you can go when recommending a first and only watch to someone who might not be inclined to fall down the rabbit hole. You have to take their particular use case for the watch into account, of course, but all things being equal, I think most first timers want something versatile, reliable, attractive in a way that’s easily understandable, and maybe from a brand they’ve heard of before. Tissot is a brand that I often circle back to when trying to answer these questions, and the new additions to the Chemin des Tourelles collection check a lot of boxes. Now, normally, I’m not into the idea of “box checking” when it comes to making a watch decision. But putting myself in the shoes of someone who is new to all of this, I think it’s fair to make sure certain basic requirements are met. While a lot of collectors might immediately look to pure sports watches from Seiko, not everyone needs dive watch level water resistance, timing bezels, and a wrist presence that will get the watch noticed. The C...
Worn & Wound
Circula Introduces a GMT into their AquaSport Diver Collection
The formula for Circula’s AquaSport dive watch is fairly simple. It’s a proper 40mm diver that keeps dial furniture to a minimum and blends in a mix of color to keep their watches looking lively, and less mundane like your traditional black dial dive watch. It’s just enough to keep the AquaSport fun and refreshing, without straying too far away from Circula’s main mission – to produce high-quality, German made (Pforzheim to be exact) watches that harken back to past designs. Circula also takes pride in listening to their customers and the entire watch community as a whole, taking suggestions and then applying them accordingly to future projects. Whether there was an increasing demand for a GMT model from the community, or it was Circula’s intention to turn their AquaSport diver into an exceptional travel companion, we’ve got a brand new AquaSport GMT in two different flavors. The Circula AquaSport comes in two different dial variations: Anthracite and Blue. The AquaSport GMT Blue stays in line with what we’ve seen within the AquaSport collection. The dial has a cyan tone amplified by a sunburst effect paired with orange accented hour markers, seconds hand, and trim around the crown. A sky blue AM bezel display offsets the color matched PM display. The AquaSport GMT Anthracite keeps things a bit more reserved. The bezel remains a uniform matte gray color. Like the sunburst effect on the anthracite gray dial, the faded yellow and light blue accents on the dia...
Quill & Pad
How Watches are Made – the Engineering of Watchmaking by John McGonigle (Video)
Master Watchmaker John McGonigle of Oileán Watches, in the first of two presentations, gives a brief history of the development of watches and how they were initially made, their progression to precision instruments, the industrialisation of watchmaking, how modern techniques and materials have been adapted and how current hand-crafted watches fit into all of this.
Deployant
New: Tissot PRX line extension
Tissot extends their very popular and commercially successful PRX lineup with new colours, new model - quartz, automatic and automatic chronograph.
Worn & Wound
Say Hello to the Highly Capable Nodus Sector Deep
Nodus started teasing out the continuation of their Sector Series early last month. With some early indications as to what we were in store for – a dual bezel display, southpaw crown stance, and a dial reading “500” potentially alluding to the water resistance rating. I assumed the latter would hold true given the appropriate name of Nodus’ latest release: the Sector Deep. The Sector Deep heavily concentrates on the keystone features in what constitutes as a legitimate dive watch. I’m talking about outstanding legibility, a case intentionally designed for comfort, and seamless functionality. We’ve seen dive watches before from the determined brand based out of California, but nothing like the Sector Deep. It’s completely novel, and their most, dare I say, professional watch to date. The Nodus Sector Deep is capable of going where its name says it can go – deep below the ocean’s surface. More specifically, 500 meters. That’s 1,640 feet for those who need the conversion and for additional perspective, that’s proximal to the height of New York City’s Freedom Tower underwater and right in the thick of the ocean’s water column. Now I know most of us won’t even come close to using up a fraction of that depth rating. Actually, I think I could speak for most of our readership (barring any certified SCUBA divers out there) when I say that we’re pretty much only concerned with the first few meters below the surface, but it’s amusing to know that the w...