Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Bilanz Reports Rolex Is Shutting Down Carl F. Bucherer
After acquiring Bucherer in 2023, Rolex is now shutting down the family's watchmaking brand, which was originally founded in 1888.
23,426 articles · 175 videos found · page 749 of 787
Hodinkee
After acquiring Bucherer in 2023, Rolex is now shutting down the family's watchmaking brand, which was originally founded in 1888.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at the brilliant and rich history of Omega Seamaster dive watches. The lineage started in 1957 with the introduction of the first Seamaster 300, which was part of Omega’s famous trilogy along with the first Speedmaster and Railmaster models. After that, the brand released many iconic dive […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Omega Seamaster Dive Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Anniversaries are to be celebrated, whether in your personal life or on the more professional side of things. Heck, every year plenty of brands release celebratory watches in honour of hallmark occasions. This year, Jack Mason joins in on the birthday shenanigans with an entirely new range of tool-oriented watches called the Pursuit Pilot, which […]
Fratello
On November 30th, Fratello published my first article about Breitling’s pop-up museum in Zurich, which celebrates the brand’s 140th anniversary. In that article, I covered three gems showcased at the museum under one of Breitling’s three universes - Sea. Today, we will cover three essential pieces of Breitling’s next universe - Air. Be sure to […] Visit The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 2: Air to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Back in 2023, LVMH and its high watchmaking workshop La Fabrique du Temps revived the Daniel Roth brand, which had been owned by Bulgari since 2000. Roth was a towering name in independent watchmaking, having been a peer of Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe. Though the brand only lasted from 1988 to 1995, its resurrection in 2023 was only made more glorious due to the long gap. The resurrected brand debuted with the Tourbillon Souscription, which has been followed up with the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription, a faithful remake of the original from the 1990s that was released at LVMH Watch Week 2025. The “Neo-vintage” craze has only gotten more popular in recent years, with the generation of watches sandwiched between vintage and modern gaining the respect and appreciation of collectors and newcomers alike. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 reissue from 2023 was one of the most celebrated neo-vintage reissues in recent years and I’d venture to say that this Roth will join the ranks. Staying true to the original aesthetics — with contemporary concessions for things like movement development — is a recipe for success in these small-batch, high-visibility watches. Small production numbers for relative rarity are helping to keep neo-vintage from becoming overexposed, but for how long? We’ll have to wait and see on that end, but for now let’s get back to the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription. The simple, two-hand dress watch comes in that recognizable double-e...
Worn & Wound
We probably sound like a broken record, saying it over and over again, but there’s really nothing quite like a genuine surprise in this hobby. It’s just that there’s so much predictability, month after month and year after year, it’s naturally the quirky and strange stuff that stands out and makes us really take notice. There are also, sometimes, watches that come along that present a truly shocking value proposition, which for those of us with watch budgets that fluctuate but are very much finite, is something that really gets us excited. Lately, we’ve taken notice of a number of independent brands offering previously exclusive complications at prices that only a few years ago would have been unheard of. We can call this the Bel Canto Effect, if you’d like, because it’s a trend that, if it didn’t start with Christopher Ward, is still very much exemplified by their affordable chiming watch. Perhaps even more unlikely than Christopher Ward dropping a chiming watch in a haute horlogerie design language, now we have word of Sea-Gull’s release of an affordable split-second chronograph, a complication that for years has been associated with the highest end brands. The Sea-Gull Split-Second Chronograph Limited, as it’s known, is a $3,649 rattrapante chronograph presented in a classical style. It’s extremely under the radar, so much so that we genuinely wonder why more people are not talking about it. Just in case you need a refresher on what a split-secon...
SJX Watches
Hermès is a brand with a distinctive, often whimsical, visual identity that translates well across products, even on its most complicated watches like the Arceau Duc Attelé, which combines a triple-axis central tourbillon (containing a high-frequency escapement) with a minute repeater featuring novel “tuning fork” gongs. Large, thick, and very complex, the Duc Attelé still manages to capture the elegant aesthetic of the brand, even in subtle details of the H1926 movement, like horse-shaped hammers for the repeater. Customised for Hermès, the calibre has an intricate, dense construction but is recognisable as being produced by a specialist. Initial thoughts The Duc Attelé demonstrates the strength of the Hermès house style. On the front, it looks elegant despite the size, while the movement feels appropriate even though it is third party. The watch does sit big on the wrist, though the titanium version is a little lighter in weight and visually smaller due to its dark colours. But the Arceau case has tiny lugs, so it doesn’t feel clunky. And although the case is almost 20 mm high, a good part of that is due to the highly domed crystal that accommodates the tourbillon’s height. All of the design elements, however, give it an elegant feel. These include the Breguet numerals on the domed chapter ring and the “Lift” motif tourbillon cage modelled on the elevator in the brand’s flagship store in Paris. But more than anything else, this is a watch characterise...
Fratello
Today, we have news of a limited-edition release from Ulysse Nardin - the Blast[Amoureuxpeintre]. This is an interesting take on the brand’s Blast, combining UN’s creative spirit with the artistic focus of an increasingly popular designer. Ulysse Nardin is well known for its distinct watches, which often feature skeletonized dials, highly complicated movements, or both. […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast[Amoureuxpeintre] to read the full article.
Monochrome
“Guess what? I got a fever… and the only prescription is more Salmon Dials!” It could be our horological equivalent of SNL’s famous “More Cowbell!” sketch with Christopher Walken. If you don’t know what that is, I strongly urge you to Google it and then come back here to continue reading. Regardless, it’s no secret […]
Monochrome
One of France’s oldest family-owned and run luxury companies, Hermès started life in 1837 as a producer of harnesses and saddles in Paris. Renowned for its impeccable artisanal craftsmanship and intrepid artistic flair, Hermès manages to endow its watches with a singular dash of poetry. The equestrian-inspired profile of the Arceau, which has hosted poetic […]
Monochrome
Hamilton´s Performer is a relatively new series in the Jazzmaster collection, which comprises sporty, contemporary, and versatile watches, including seven 42mm Auto Chrono models. Classic in their appearance and with an undeniable wrist presence, these chronographs now face stiff competition from within, thanks to the arrival of the sleek, black-clad Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono. […]
Time+Tide
Following the design cues of the original, the new Extra Plat sports a new movement.The post The second La Fabrique du Temps Daniel Roth is the simple, stunning Extra Plat Souscription appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
A Week in Watches is back and off to the races with ep 97, which covers a handful of cool new releases. Despite the beginning of the year slump, there’s still plenty to keep us excited, from a light and fast Longines to a precious metal Fears, to a new steel luxury hype-machine by Vacheron, and finally, another new Speedmaster. This episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. New to the shop is the G-SHOCK DW5000R-1A origin, a revamp of the very first G-SHOCK, some cool Casio x Pac-Man pieces, including a nerdtastic calculator watch in yellow, the futuristic Prevail field watches, and more – head to windupwatchshop.com to check them out for yourself. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 97: Longines, Fears, Omega, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
We asked our audience which 222 they'd prefer to have - and the results were quite surprising.The post Steel or gold? The Time+Tide community has a clear favourite Vacheron Constantin 222 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Come with us on a tour of A. Lange & Söhne's Glashütte home and find out what goes into its masterpieces. The post What in-house means for A. Lange & Söhne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Diversity is arguably a strength – and a weakness – of the Speedmaster – and Omega is proving this with the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite. In contrast to the recent military-inspired Speedy, the latest model goes for exotic materials: the dial is made of lunar meteorite finished in either grey or black, while the moon phase sports twin moons similarly fashioned from meteorite. The moon phase display is a double moon that depicts the age of the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Completing the celestial scene, the stars on the moon phase disc replicate the night sky when Apollo 11 landed on the Moon in 1969, as observed from Omega’s headquarters in Biel. Initial thoughts Maybe the new Speedmaster is an ironic reference to the “Moonwatch” nickname. In fact, it doubles the Moon reference with Moon meteorite fragments and the moon phase. But does the Speedmaster need to be dressed up with a moon phase and meteorite? Intrinsically, the new model has a few things going for it. The in-house movement inside is one of Omega’s top-of-the-line chronograph calibres. And it also has a scaled-down case that improves wearability. Now 43 mm, the watch has a more compact form than its chunky 44.25 mm predecessor. Despite the in-house movement and liberal use of meteorite, the Speedmaster Moonphase still feels pricey with a retail of US$17,100. That said, most recent Speedmaster models are expensive – this costs only US$1,500 more than the Speedmaster C...
Worn & Wound
2025 is the year of the snake in China, and Hublot has been creating special limited releases for the Chinese New Year since 2016. This year’s rendition, which has traditionally been implemented on Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang has just been announced, and you and I both know, before even seeing images of the new watch – that there’s going to be a snake on it somewhere. By looking at the press images of this watch, it’s quite apparent that the snake theme is in the forefront of the design. It’s cleverly integrated into the serpent like shape of the sub-dial’s borders, which are entirely adjoined in gold plated fashion and flow effortlessly into each other. The snake theme doesn’t stop there, but actually continues on both the bezel and the rubber strap with the integration of a scale like engraving. While the year-end theme of the watch is a big attraction that will initially draw you in, the details of the high horology watchmaking is what’s really going to keep you intrigued. The watch case is fully ceramic and the bezel has been screwed down with visible screws. The watch also features a fully open dial setting, showing off the inner workings of chronograph calibre HUB4700, which is actually based on an original El Primero chronograph movement from 1969, of course with this modified variant having some upgrades such as the low friction silicon escape wheel. The watch is priced at $35,100, but is limited to a tiny production volume of 88 pieces. T...
Worn & Wound
Over the holiday break, I frequented the local Chinese restaurant not once, not twice, but three times. And each time, before my General Tso was brought to the table, I would pore over the paper placemat, going to the list of everyone’s birth year in my head. Oh, he’s definitely a horse, I’d think. Her? A dragon…eh, I don’t see it. I, myself, am a Sheep, which makes sense considering I’m pretty much useless and wear a lot of wool. But the real star of the show is the Snake. Representing wisdom, rebirth, and vitality – I’m cautiously optimistic about what 2025 may bring for us. And that optimism is only fortified by the string of new watches that are coming from Longines right out of the gate for the New Year. Their latest limited-edition, a Conquest Heritage model designed to honor the Chinese zodiac, is a bold, thoughtful design, and a welcome addition to this year’s Lunar New Year offerings from some of our favorite brands. What’s noticeable first about this new edition to the Conquest Heritage line-up is the sunray gradient dial that’s as eye-catching as it is unique. Being a traditional color in the Chinese New Year tradition, red seems a fitting choice that also helps to set this specific reference apart from the more neutral dial colors of the line, which is all beige, black, and silvers. The gradient is a particularly smart choice, giving the lumed gold indices room to shine, while not being too vibrant against the stainless steel case. On th...
SJX Watches
On the back of the hefty, 10-year LVMH-Formula 1 sponsorship deal signed last year, TAG Heuer now returns as the official timekeeper of Formula 1, just in time for the sport’s 75th anniversary in 2025. This is a homecoming of sorts of TAG Heuer, which was official timekeeper for F1 for a decade from 1992. In fact, the brand’s roots in motorsports go back several decades - Heuer was the first luxury watch brand to display its logo on a Formula 1 car in 1969, and the first to sponsor a team in 1971 when it partnered with Scuderia Ferrari. And TAG Heuer famously signed Ayrton Senna as an ambassador in 1988, just before he became a champion driver. Jack Heuer (centre, in blue) at Ferrari in Maranello In fact, the brand name itself references F1: well before TAG Group acquired Heuer in 1985, the Saudi-owned group was already shareholder in McLaren and only sold its stake in the automaker and racing team last year. TAG Heuer’s return to F1 comes at an opportune time, with the sport having evolved into a global entertainment franchise under the ownership of Liberty Media. According to F1, it now boasts an audience of 750 million fans, many of whom are drawn into the sport by the hit Netflix series, and also an upcoming film starring Brad Pitt.
Teddy Baldassarre
Just announced by Seiko is a pair of limited-edition Prospex watches done in collaboration with Los Angeles Dodgers phenomenon Shohei Ohtani. The SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 are both takes on the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, which was released back in 2023 as the first mechanical GMT in the Prospex collection. These two diver GMT watches will come in the iconic Dodger Blue colorway, with the SBEJ023 having a blue bezel with black dial and the SBEJ025 sporting a blue bezel with contrasting white dial. While not totally on theme here, I recall Ohtani wore a Grand Seiko SBGJ217 back in 2023 when he signed with the Dodgers. For a little context, these aren’t the first Seiko watches done in collaboration with Ohtani. The first was the Prospex Diver SBDC191, which came in out in 2023, while he still played for L.A.'s other baseball team, the Angels of the American League. That watch had the red seconds hand and dial text as well as Ohtani’s signature on the clasp. These new watches have the Ohtani’s number 17 highlighted in red on the GMT rehaut and his signature engraved on the bracelet clasp. The SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 share the same basics as the standard 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, recognizable for its vintage-inspired, Marine Master-esque design. Measuring 42mm wide, 12.9mm thick, and with a 48.6mm lug-to-lug measurement, these watches are water-resistant to 200 meters and boast a very well-made ceramic bezel. The real GMT nerds will be a little disappointed with the lack of ...
Worn & Wound
Doxa, Doxa, Doxa. There’s a lot about the current incarnation of the brand to like and a lot that leaves us enthusiasts questioning what’s going on and why. Which honestly, is fine. It’s cool to see a brand experiment and find out what works for them, but a lot of people seem to expect a straightforward dive watch experience from the brand that draws from its strong history rooted in adventure and aquatic exploration. While I had some strong opinions, I did not “fill in the vacuum with my no-holds-barred opinion” (read Meg’s take on the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds, it’s a good one). Clearly, the diamond-encrusted $9,400 take on this watch is not in my wheelhouse. But what about the $1,590 version that captures all of the classic Doxa charm in an extremely well-wearing package? It seems to have been overshadowed as of late by the diamond-laden version, but hopefully this hands-on can bring it back into focus a bit. While I’m not a huge Clive Cussler fan (never read anything by the guy), I don’t have any Jacques Cousteau documentaries queued up on my Youtube, and most of my time spent in the ocean is standing on the shore in knee-deep water trying to catch a striped bass at the expense of sleep, I do appreciate a good dive watch. I used to own a Doxa Sub 200, which I really loved and still miss from time to time. Doxa can make a heck of a watch and they always nail the wearability factor in the 200 lineup. Let’s take a look at what makes this diver an excell...
Worn & Wound
In 1983, Sally Ride became the first American woman in space, the final episode of the acclaimed television series MASH* aired, the members of rock band KISS were seen without their makeup for the first time, and the first Casio G-SHOCK, the DW-5000C, was released to consumers. An incredibly rare piece to find nowadays––especially in good condition without a crumbling band or shroud––this model has become an elusive collector’s item, practically unobtainable for the common hobbyist. Forty-one years later, Casio has just announced their modern redesign of the original 5000C in their new DW-5000R model. Throughout 2024, the brand released numerous watches in commemoration of their 50th anniversary like the GMWB5000SS-2, TRN50SS-2A, and GMC-B2100ZE-1A, but the faithful recreation of this model is sure to be a hit amongst both Casio enthusiasts and ordinary customers looking for a new but retro-inspired watch. The DW-5000R is built with a stainless-steel case and “Shock Resistant” labeled screw-down case back, a rare sight on modern Casios and yet another callback to the company’s roots. The shroud and band are constructed of environmentally friendly yet durable bio-based resin. Its dial is arguably the most significant characteristic of these models, fit with the iconic brick backsplash, red outline, and yellow and blue lettering. Manufactured in Yamagata, Japan––within the same mother factory that produced the original DW-5000C–– “JAPAN” is feat...
Fratello
For those in the Northern Hemisphere, this time of year is associated with cold and dark days! But fear not; it is a scientifically proven fact that bringing color into your life can cheer you up. Some colors, like yellow, trigger the release of serotonin in our brains, making us feel happy. Watches with colorful […] Visit Five Watches With Colorful Dials To Light Up Your Winter Blues to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
When I first met Rafael Guimarães a few months ago, Statera hadn’t crossed my radar in a big way. The small brand, which has a fair claim to being the first watch brand born and built in Brazil, had already sold through a few production runs of nice-looking watches, but the brand had yet to make a real splash or to break out from the typical microbrand mold. Their first few releases certainly showed evidence of an eye for quality and detail, but for Rafael and his longtime friend and co-founder Antonio Almir dos Santos Neto (the two have known each other since they were five), it wasn’t enough. “For the first watch, the ST01, we made the design, and then the watch was fabricated in France… it was more like a [proof of concept] to see if we are able to sell watches,” Rafael explained. The obvious next step was to turn inward, to move away from external manufacturing and create what would be (and now is) the first independent watch not only conceived in Brazil, but made there as well. The result is the ST02 Esmalte Grand Feu, a handsome take on the everyday watch born out of a unique perspective paired with a generation’s worth of accumulated knowledge. How We Learn The path to the ST02 was neither short nor simple. Reaching the next level when you live and work in a part of the world with no history of watchmaking isn’t easy, and it’s not made any easier by Brazil’s restrictive tax structure. “We are fascinated by métier d’art. and we are fascinated ...
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking continued its hot streak in 2024, with interest and demand for this niche segment holding up better amidst an industry-wide slowdown. But surprisingly – or unsurprisingly depending on how you look at it – there were relatively few outstanding new creations from the indies. A handful, however, did stand out. We look at the team’s highlights of the year, which range from Konstantin Chaykin’s thinnest-watch-ever to the debut by Swiss-based Japanese watchmaker Takahiro Aigaki. Aigaki Direct-Impulse Tourbillon – Brandon Moore I still remember the moment I stumbled across Takahiko Aigaki’s Instagram profile earlier this year, because the close-up image of the tourbillon cage made me do a double take. Sure, it was well finished, but in 2024 good finishing no longer provides the competitive advantage it once did; the top end of the market is just too competitive. No, what struck me was the unusual double direct-impulse escapement. When the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon was finally revealed, it was worth the wait. While arguably a bit plain on the outside, the movement exhibits a degree of grace and technicality that is still quite rare. The watch is truly a sleeper, in the sense that the case and dial reveal little of the horological magic within. Daniel Roth Tourbillon – Brandon Moore It’s counterintuitive to be writing about the launch of the Daniel Roth brand in 2024, considering the man himself was one of the seminal independent watchmakers ...
Time+Tide
Hamilton Murph 38 or Seiko Alpinist SPB121? Which of the two field watches walks away the winner?The post VERSUS: The Hamilton Murph 38 comes up against the Seiko Alpinist SPB121 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Signature cues from several models come together in a cohesive manner.The post Laurent Ferrier weaves brand DNA into the Classic Moon, complete with a brand first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
GaryG's first rule when it comes to collecting is to avoid setting too many exclusionary rules. With watches, he believes that it's the passion that separates collectors from investors and accumulators. Which brings him to another rule: deriving the full enjoyment from the things you own.
SJX Watches
Over the last decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour across watchmaking, with even conservative, haute horlogerie brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon balance springs. Not to mention large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon balance springs. Rolex, however, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to employ a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring. The Parachrom hairspring inside the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona The advantages of alloy The use of blue Parachrom is rooted in the simple fact that the right metal alloy boasts performance that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – while offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon. Alloy hairsprings are traditionally made of Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a special alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century old, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus susceptible to influence from magnetic fields. The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex In order to make its hairsprings more resistant to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being one of the key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex set out to develop its own hairspring alloy in the early 2...
Worn & Wound
A few weeks ago we told you about the Ressence Type 8 Indigo, a high craft variation on the most simple and accessible Ressence model. It turns out that the Type 8 only held the distinction of being the brand’s entry level timepiece for a few days after the launch of the Indigo, as the new Type 9 which the brand debuted mere hours later now represents the cleanest point of entry to the brand. The Type 9 has much of the same minimalist appeal as the Type 8 (the display is as straightforward as Ressence gets and not materially different from the Type 8) but the new watch offers a significant change to the case, and should give enthusiasts and collectors with a smaller wrist something to consider if they’ve ever balked at a Ressence for being a little too big. This is the smallest Ressence yet, coming in at 39mm in diameter in titanium. Unlike the Type 8, a 43mm watch with a flying saucer like shape, the Type 9 is more traditional and has small, short lugs to which a strap is mounted at either end of the case. The real space saving here comes from the addition of a bezel which acts as a minute track, whereas in other Ressence designs the outer minute track is simply at the dial’s perimeter. This tightens things up considerably, and also, in my opinion, offers a little more visual interest. With the minute track now outboard of the dial, options begin to open up with respect to finishing, color, materials, and so forth. The execution here isn’t particularly adventuro...
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