Deployant
New: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium
Roger Dubuis adds a new reference in a titanium case with titanium bracelet to their rather extensive Excalibur Monobalancier collection.
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Deployant
Roger Dubuis adds a new reference in a titanium case with titanium bracelet to their rather extensive Excalibur Monobalancier collection.
SJX Watches
Having been the subject of chatter since the beginning of 2023, the F.P. Journe boutique in London is now official. Located at 33 Bruton Street, around the corner from Hermès in London’s upmarket Mayfair district, the store is slated to open in early summer. Although F.P. Journe has been in London almost since its founding in 1999, it was always represented by retailers. Now, as is the case in many other cities, F.P. Journe is bringing things in-house. The brand’s 11th boutique, the new London store joins its long-established outposts in Tokyo, Geneva, and Hong Kong, giving F.P. Journe a major presence in yet another key city. The upcoming boutique at 33 Bruton Street Given the mismatched supply and demand for F.P. Journe watches – it makes about 1,000 watches a year and enjoys demand many multiples of that – the business rationale of the new boutique might be hard to grasp, at least on its face. But given that Mr Journe has already spoken of consolidating his brand’s retail network around the world – word has it that even some boutiques might not be spared – it can be inferred that the London boutique will be receiving some of the inventory that would have otherwise gone to the soon-to-be-closed locations. According to industry insiders, the team for the new boutique has already been hired, with a respected industry veteran slated to take the helm of the store. Regardless of his or her talents, the boutique’s manager will likely need to be adept at managi...
Time+Tide
The new Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk comes with a green-on-green colour scheme, a quick-set date, and a true GMT caliber It has a compact case of 40mm made of lightweight titanium The new Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk is limited to 1,000 pieces GMT watches are becoming increasingly popular, and brands big and small … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Read a detailed review of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon watch, featuring a cushion-shaped steel case, a fumé dial, and an in-house automatic movement with a 3-day power reserve. This vintage-inspired special edition watch comes with an integrated steel bracelet and is water resistant to 12 ATM.
Time+Tide
Rado’s Australian exclusive edition of the Captain Cook is adorned in the Aussie green and gold colour scheme The yellow gold PVD is applied to a stainless-steel case and bracelet, although the clasp is made of titanium The green bezel is made from high-tech ceramic, and perfectly matches the green gradient dial Rado are a … ContinuedThe post The Rado Captain Cook gets an Aussie exclusive in green and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward has revealed an entirely new collection called The Twelve, an integrated bracelet sport/dress watch with slim dimensions, a slick dial texture, and, naturally, a 12 sided bezel piece. The new watches take a broad slice of inspiration from history, and land in relatively familiar territory as a result, however, as a whole, end up representing something unique in the sub $1,500 price range: a fully integrated steel or titanium bracelet paired to a sub 10mm case with a chronometer spec movement inside. The brand is quite upfront about taking a page out of history with this one, going so far as directly naming the standard bearers to place their watch in some pretty prestigious company right off the bat. The Twelve is a 40mm watch that gets steel and titanium variants. The steel examples measure 9.95mm in thickness, while the titanium pair shave a full millimeter off that number to crack just under 9mm. The lug to lug distance is 44.5mm, and that measurement appears to be taken from the ends of the case that link to the bracelet, which are fixed male pieces. The weight of the steel watch is 65 grams, while the titanium tips the scales at a mere 41 grams. Overall, an impressive set of numbers that should equate to a pretty incredible on-wrist experience, though we can’t say for sure until we’re able to get some hands-on time with it. Each of the material options utilize Sellita automatic movements, with the steel getting an SW200 rated to +/- 20 seconds p...
SJX Watches
Continuing with iterations on its bestseller, Urwerk has just taken the covers off the UR-100V “Magic T”. Retaining Urwerk’s signature wandering hours time display, the Magic T has both its case and matching bracelet in finely-blasted titanium, giving it a look that is distinct from the UR-100V “Full Metal Jacket” launched in 2021. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Magic T looks identical to its 2021 predecessor. Both are identical in design and share a matte titanium case and bracelet. But in person the Magic T is clearly different, even though it’s only the finishing of the titanium that differs. The Magic T has a finer, smoother finish that gives it a softer, more refined feel. This gives more tactile appeal than the Full Metal Jacket for me, so anyone who missed out on last year’s model should not have any regrets. That said, I hope Urwerk doesn’t do too many limited-edition variants of the UR-100V on a bracelet, because it would risk getting repetitive. For now, however, the runs are small enough and editions few enough that the model remains appealing and interesting. Finely “shotblasted” Unlike the Full Metal Jacket that was finished with a tangibly granular finish, the Magic T is entirely in “sanded shotblasted titanium”. In other words, it was blasted with smaller abrasive particles than those used for the Full Metal Jacket, resulting in its smoother, finer finish. The difference in finish is tactile enough that both watches feel differ...
Hodinkee
The Antiquarian Horologist will examine the history behind the lineage of the mechanical singing-bird along with a case study.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A look at the new Marathon Navigator pilot's watch, featuring a fully blasted steel case with a screw-down crown and 100m of water-resistance.
Worn & Wound
Since 1986, the Marathon Navigator has positioned itself as one of the most reliable, well built, pilot’s watches out there. From its familiar dial and asymmetrical case shape, to its bi-directional bezel and composite fiber case. Together, these design elements have long since camped out in the minds of many a collector as the defining features of this reference. Since 1986, the Marathon Navigator has positioned itself as one of the most reliable, well built, pilot’s watches out there. From its familiar dial and asymmetrical case shape, to its bi-directional bezel and composite fiber case. Together, these design elements have long since camped out in the minds of many a collector as the defining features of this reference. The post Marathon Release a Stainless Steel Version of Their Navigator appeared first on Worn & Wound.
And we’re back for episode 45 of A Week in Watches. The dust from Watches & Wonders has settled, but there are still plenty of new releases to cover. This week we have tough-looking Timex Q with complications to spare. Seiko 5 has continued to trim down their sizes, and we’re excited about it. Zodiac has launched their weirdest Super Sea Wolf yet, and, finally, Autodromo puts a big engine in their tried-and-true Group B case with the Rallysport Chronographs. All in all, a pretty solid week. Before you go, please do give us a like and subscribe over on our YouTube channel. It really helps us out! This week’s episode is sponsored by Whatnot, a live-stream auction app where you can buy and sell unique items. Come join the Windup Watch Shop for their first stream on Wednesday, April 19th at 5PM Eastern, where they will be showing and selling various items from the shop, including Buy-it-Now Bundles featuring watches such as the Citizen Super Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic and the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn And Wound Edition bundled with accessories from ADPT and Worn & Wound. Follow this link to sign up for Whatnot and get $15 in credit toward your first purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 45: From Smaller Seiko 5s to Psychedelic Zodiacs appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Tudor’s recent road is a case study on how to properly revive, or reintroduce a brand to the world. Just in the last 10ish years, we’ve watched them go from a vintage fascination but a contemporary obscurity to one of the leading modern Swiss watch brands. A brand that went from unavailable in the US, to globally reinvigorating and dominating the $3-5k price point. And now, in 2023, they’ve marked another milestone, the opening of their new assembling and testing facility in Le Locle. A massive structure, it houses in a split building with entrances on either side, Tudor and the movement manufacturer they created, Kenissi. Standing on 330, 30-meter tall concrete pillars to reach sturdy bedrock below, the building is 150-meters long, 30-meters high, and consists of 8,050 cubic meters of concrete and 960 tons of metal framing. State of the art in many ways, the project took five years from start to finish, including three for construction, with some transitions and new operations finishing in April of 2023. Airey, with large, automatically tinting glass windows and an intentionally industrial interior veneer, the structure spoke to mid-century architecture, if completed and outfitted with the newest technologies one can expect in a watch-making facility. In many ways, the building suits the products that Tudor currently makes, watches with vintage aesthetic cues, but firmly up-to-date construction. Watches that despite certainly qualifying as luxury timepieces, avoid t...
Hodinkee
METAS certification, a new five-link bracelet, and a thinner case make for the best burgundy Black Bay yet.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch is updated with a subtle brown and gold colour scheme, and an outlandish gem-set variant The reversible case houses 20 complications, including two patented exclusives – a date repeater and alarm that sounds the programmed time 118 emeralds and 291 diamonds, both baguette-cut, total nearly 30 carats of gems on … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Zenith’s new Pilot collection sees a complete redesign of the case aesthetic. Lineup includes a 40mm time and date version, and a big date flyback chrono. The new series is available in both steel and microblasted matte black ceramic, a first for the Pilot line. Zenith is flying into Watches & Wonders with a complete … ContinuedThe post Flying high: Zenith redesigns their Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Zenith introduces a striking new reinterpretation of the historic Defy Revival for Watches & Wonders 2023. An evolution of the vintage look of previous editions, the Shadow boasts full lightweight titanium construction for both the case and bracelet. The titanium gets a microblasted matte finish that renders the material a stealthy dark grey. I’ve been … ContinuedThe post The Zenith Defy Revival Shadow cuts a super-spy profile appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir California is their first California dial in a 45mm case. For the first time, Panerai have experimented with a faux-aged PVD case. The green and gilt dial gives the watch a lot of old-world charm thanks to modern techniques. Panerai haven’t been the fastest brand to pick up on new trends historically, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
As is often the case when the wider industry is doing well, independent watchmaking is on fire. This was illustrated by the numerous and diverse exhibitors, many of them brand-new entrants, showing their wares alongside Watches & Wonders in Geneva. But as is often the case when independent watchmaking is on fire, quantity far exceeded quality, and the good and great were rare. Not wanting to go up against brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe for eyeballs (and also because most independent marques now enjoy long, long waitlists), many watchmakers didn’t launch anything new. Some talented watchmakers are merely making slow but steady progress, like Yosuke Sekiguchi, the Japanese watchmaker based in Switzerland who presented the final version of his Primevère along with new dial variants for the same. One of the best new launches is not really a new model, but it’s good enough it deserves a top spot on the list. The F.P. Journe FFC is the regular production version of the unique FFC Blue made for charity auction Only Watch in 2021. Indicating the time with a five-fingered hand, the time display is simple but driven by a clever and complex movement, illustrating the brilliance of its creator. Granted it costs CHF820,000 before taxes, which is probably too much even considering the complication. But according to Mr Journe, the movement is complex enough that it can only be assembled and adjusted by a watchmaker who is otherwise working on the Astronomic grand complication....
Hodinkee
An elegant take on the fan-favorite 'Shunbun,' this new limited edition pairs a pink gold case with the familiar pale pink dial.
Worn & Wound
When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...
Time+Tide
Roger Dubuis pushes the envelope of haute horology for Watches & Wonders, with the introduction of the Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph It features a 360 degree tourbillon designed to eliminate the effects of gravity, and sports a rattrapante chronograph The case material is 60% lighter than ceramic, and 13% lighter than carbon When supercars weren’t enough, … ContinuedThe post Look into the future of Hyper Horology with the Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Norqain introduces new Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41 Steel & Gold Hints of 18K 5N red gold are injected into the design through the bezel, hands, counters, and Norqain logo 100m water-resistant 41mm case, automatic day-date chronograph calibre Norqain has a very clear and specific lane for their watches: they must be robust, high-performing and … ContinuedThe post Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko makes the most of their gorgeous cherry blossom-inspired dial, this time in a rose-gold case The SBGY026 will appeal to the smaller-wristed, measuring in at 38.5mm in diameter and just 43.7mm lug-to-lug A manually wound Spring Drive 9R31 movement keeps the watch slim at just a smidge over 10mm It’s safe to say … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SBGE295 takes the Mt. Motaka dial in a verdant direction with a silvery-green finish The asymmetrical bi-colour bezel is luminous in its white section, and is covered with a sapphire insert The 44mm case is 200m water resistant, and is powered by the 9R66 Spring Drive movement The term ‘forest green’ has … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic is now also available in green and gold PVD. The DS-2 Chronograph is based on the vintage DS-2 Chronolympic reference 8601 800. The green and gold colour scheme perfectly fits the retro tonneau case. Certina’s expansion of their vintage-inspired sports watch catalogue is an exciting prospect for those who … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Join Ressence Founder Benoît Mintiens and Revolution Founder Wei Koh as they discuss the new 42.9mm Ressence Type 8 S in Green that is just 11mm thick and weighs 42g. Next, they introduce the Ressence Type 1 Round Night Blue in 42.7mm case size. As you might be aware, the unique Ressence Orbital Convex System […]
Time+Tide
The new Oyster Perpetual Celebration is proof that the crown knows how to party Bubbly dials take on the colours of Stella-inspired OPs that sky-rocketed in popularity over the last few years Available in 31, 36 and 41 millimetre case sizes Rolex clearly tried to do their best to please as many of their fans … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Attendees of the Watches and Wonders 2023 were mesmerized by the out-of-this-world Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution. Within a 47mm gold case, a satellite makes a revolution precisely every 60 seconds. Its three arms carry a ruby that makes a revolution on its own axis every 15 seconds, a Jacob & Co. triple axis tourbillon […]
Time+Tide
Whenever a new watch is introduced, there’s usually an aspect of the design that jumps out, whether it’s a stunning dial, unique case architecture, or a gorgeous movement. And sometimes, you find all three in one watch. The new Speake-Marin Ripples Date is that watch. This release remixes the multi-angled razzle-dazzle that you find in … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross has expanded their offering of GMT equipped watches at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the BR 03-93 GMT Blue. A GMT complication is perhaps the most natural additional feature for a watch that’s so tied to aviation. The iconic square case shape of the BR 03 is modeled after what you might find on an instrument cluster in an aircraft. For this new reference, Bell & Ross is employing a combination of colors that are not frequently seen together, at least within the Bell & Ross catalog, but they complement each other incredibly well. The story here starts with the dial, which is a gorgeous shade of bright blue with a sunray finish. Bell & Ross tells us they’ve designed the dial with pure functionality in mind, thinking through the complementing colors in terms of legibility. Large Arabic numerals at the cardinal positions combined with big lume filled hands immediately orient the wearer of the watch to the local time at a glance. The oversized red arrow on the GMT hand is also lume filled and meant to be similarly immediately identifiable. As is the custom for Bell & Ross with recent releases, lume has been emphasized and applied liberally across the various dial furniture. Everything on the dial is big and well defined, and one can imagine it would be hard to confuse local for GMT time, and vice-versa. The case is classic Bell & Ross, rendered in stainless steel and measuring 42mm across. Rather than a traditional blue and red bezel, Bell & Ross ...
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