Hodinkee
One To Watch: Historic Jump Hour Manufacturer Niton Relaunches With A Blend Of Vintage And Modern Style With The 'Prima'
This is not your average jump hour; it's a watch with a lot of history and more hidden under the hood.
Results for Patek Philippe Nautilus History
2,979 articles · 393 videos found · page 75 of 113
Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
California Dials Explained, and Seven of Our Favorites
Watches with California dials are among the most niche products in the industry, with a relatively vague history that somehow only adds to their mystique and quirky appeal. If you’re not familiar with the California dial - or if you are already a convert and simply curious about where in this day and age you can find these rare birds - read on as we attempt to answer all of the expected queries about the style, starting with the most basic, namely: [toc-section heading="What Exactly Are California Dials?"] Photo: Sotheby's A California dial is generally recognized as a watch dial with a combination of Roman numerals, Arabic numerals, and non-numeral indexes to mark the hour positions. On most examples, the layout is fairly consistent: Roman numerals in the top half of the dial, from 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock; Arabic numerals in the bottom half, from 4 o’clock to 8 o’clock; baton-shaped or rectangular-dash indexes breaking up the numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock; and an inverted triangle marking the 12 o’clock position. A few watchmakers, like Germany’s Nomos Glashütte in its Club Campus models, have chosen to stray from this formula a bit, putting the Arabic numerals in the top half and Roman numerals in the bottom half. Other variations include the less-common “Semi-California” dial, which uses the triangle at 12 o’clock and indexes at the 15-minute markers but opts for only Arabic numerals at the other positions. [toc-section heading="Who Made...
SJX Watches
Masterpieces of Modernism: Swatch Debuts Guggenheim Collaboration
Having previously collaborated with almost every major art museum in the world, from MoMA to the Louvre, Swatch has licensed four masterpieces of 20th-century art from the Guggenheim, including works on display in New York and Venice. Accessibly priced, non-limited and available online, the Swatch x Guggenheim collection brings works from Monet, Degas, Klee, and Pollock to a wrist near you. Initial thoughts Painted dials have a long history in watchmaking, but the difficult nature of the work meant that for most of history they remained out of reach for all but the wealthiest clientele. While hand-painted dials are vanishingly rare and breathtakingly expensive, modern production methods mean that legendary masterpieces can now be easily scaled down and mass produced. Swatch was a pioneer in this regard, introducing its first artist collaboration with Kiki Picasso in 1985, just two years after the company launched its revolutionary plastic watch. The Picasso collaboration was the first of many, and since then there’s hardly a major art museum that hasn’t licensed selected works to Swatch. The works selected for this collaboration come from two different Guggenheim collections. Three of them are famously on display at the Guggenheim New York, while the fourth may be seen at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice. The odd-looking double-length seconds hand is an homage to this transatlantic duality. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice. Functionally, the four quar...
Worn & Wound
A Look at the Timex Q Nebula, the Forgotten Pulp Fiction Watch
Turning on Quentin Tarantino’s 1994 masterpiece Pulp Fiction for the first time is a moment I’m sure many of us would like to relive. Among the many unexpected moments the film has to offer is a four-minute-long scene where Christopher Walken details the history of a Lancet trench watch and its unfortunate journeys through the human anatomy. The familial heirloom timepiece that Captain Koons passes down to his son, Butch, is often considered by watch buffs and film aficionados to be the true “Pulp Fiction watch” because of its inclusion in the iconic scene. I personally feel there’s another timepiece featured in the movie that should be in the running for that title as well (and no, I’m not talking about Harvey Keitel’s Gucci 3300M). The Timex Q Red Nebula never gets any clear-cut screen time, but for those keen-eyed viewers, it can be spotted on John Travolta’s wrist numerous times throughout the film. Several stories and blogs have been written about the history of the Lancet featured in the movie, but very little exists about this Timex Q in the watch space. Let’s change that, shall we? History of the Red Nebula This model was advertised as the ref. 989502 in Timex catalogues, but quickly gained the far catchier Red Nebula moniker because of its dial from consumers upon release. When it initially launched in 1977, it featured a faceted mineral crystal, similar to those seen on Seiko pieces from that era. The 1978 release of this same model features a...
Worn & Wound
The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Omega Speedmaster is Still Out of This World
A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping. In the early 1960s, NASA realised astronauts needed reliable, tough wristwatches for space missions, especially for tasks outside the spacecraft like on the Moon. So, NASA secretly bought several chronograph-type watches off the shelf. They tested watches from Omega, Rolex, Longines-Wittnauer, and perhaps a few others under extreme conditions. “Space: the final frontier. These are the voyages of the starship Enterprise. Its 5-year mission: to explore strange new worlds, to seek out new life and new civilizations, to boldly go where no man has gone before.” These were the immortal words of Captain James T. Kirk, of the Star Ship Enterprise, played by William Shatner, in the hugely popular series, Star Trek, first broadcast in 1966. Today we are still fascinated with space travel and the extraordinary developments that have impacted on all of our lives since Mankind first set foot on the Moon on the 21st July 1969. It is often stated that the technology that took Apollo 11 astronauts, Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Mic...
Video
From Patek to Breitling, Reviewing A Collector's Sports Watches | Rant&h; Collection Review
Monochrome
Introducing – Hanhart 417 ES Moby Dick 39mm
Hanhart’s history is tied to pilots’ chronographs, and the so-called “Moby Dick” occupies a special place in the brand’s story. Most vintage 417 chronographs came with dark dials, but a very small number were produced with white dials for civilian use. Over time, fans adopted the nickname “Moby Dick” because of their appearance and rarity. […]
Fratello
Why Do You Wear An Analog Watch In A Digital World - The Psychology Behind It
Ask yourself: why do you wear an analog watch in the digital world? Before you answer this, think beyond prestige, status, or luxury. Also, go deeper than the history of wristwatches, the mechanical movements and complications you admire, and the models you desire. Instead, think about wearing a mechanical watch in your digitally dominated world. […] Visit Why Do You Wear An Analog Watch In A Digital World - The Psychology Behind It to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Heritage Director Nicholas Biebuyck on the New Carreras, Formula One, and the Future of the Brand
It can be hard to love a heritage brand in its modern guise. The chasm between the demands of the modern world and the spirit that once defined a legacy brand is usually vast, and the need to progress and stay relevant typically outweighs any brand’s need to satisfy the enthusiasts and history buffs that love it. When it comes to TAG Heuer, however, there’s a different story being told–one that truly celebrates the brand’s history while seeking a seat at the table of the upper echelon of watchmaking. The man responsible for orchestrating that balancing act is Nicholas Biebuyck, TAG Heuer’s Heritage Director. While Biebuyck wears many hats within the TAG Heuer machine, he’s an enthusiast at his core. The man understands where the brand has been and what that history means to his fellow enthusiasts, but he also has his eyes firmly on the future. Biebuyck knows that for TAG Heuer to stand on the top step of the horological podium, it needs to innovate in every regard–including swinging for the fences with its halo products like the Monaco Split-Seconds Rattrapante. To that end, TAG Heuer has announced the release of several new Carrera models that vamp on their successful “Glass Box” design. These watches, unveiled at LVMH Watch Week, include a new Carrera Seafarer that picks up where the brand’s 2024 Hodinkee limited edition left off while nodding at a beloved, if somewhat obscure classic from the Heuer archive. These new releases continue to telegrap...
Monochrome
First Look – The White Ceramic Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Milano Cortina 2026
For the 32nd time in its (long) history and since 1932, Omega will be the Official Timekeeper of the Olympics. Indeed, the 2026 Olympic Winter Games will be held from February 6th to 22nd in Milano Cortina, Italy, and the Swiss watch brand will record all 116 events across 16 sporting disciplines. To celebrate its […]
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Debuts Track-Ready Carrera Split-Seconds
Having recently given the Monaco a rattrapante makeover, TAG Heuer has unveiled the Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph, the first-ever split-seconds chronograph in the history of the storied Carrera line-up. The watch combines the brand’s contemporary ‘glassbox’ case design with the Vaucher-derived TH81-01 movement, the only split-seconds calibre in production capable of tenth-of-a-second resolution. Built of grade 5 titanium inside and out, the Carrera Split-Seconds is positioned as both a technical showcase and a halo product for the brand. Initial thoughts It’s more than a little surprising that the Carrera, one of the most storied names in sports chronographs, has never been made in a split-seconds variant until now. In the vintage era, many of Heuer’s peers introduced split-seconds chronographs with movements sourced from Valjoux, which also supplied the ebauches for the Carrera, which suggests the technology was well within reach. That said, the Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph is arguably worth the wait, marrying the contemporary glassbox case design with the one of the only split-seconds chronograph calibres capable of tenth-of-a-second resolution. It’s a coherent product in more ways than one, carrying on the brand’s history of commercialising third-party calibres in design-forward, performance-oriented watches. In terms of design, the Carrera Split-Seconds feels more refined than the Monaco Split-Seconds, avoiding the superfluous “rattrapante” a...
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IWC - History of the Portugieser
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This New MKII Fulcrum Reminds Me Why Military Watch Design Endures
MKII revisits military watch design with a limited Fulcrum release rooted in function, history, and quiet intent.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Models Of The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H Are Ready To Go Racing (incl. Video)
With more than a century of watchmaking under its belt, Hamilton has more than earned its place in history. The brand has ventured into many areas of the industry, and has launched a fair share of iconic watches, such as the Ventura, Pulsar and Chrono-Matic. Military-issued and -inspired watches like the W10 and the Khaki […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Four New Seiko Limited Editions To Celebrate The Brand's 145th Anniversary
From a diver to a very vintage dress watch, Seiko is tapping into its history for a quartet of new LEs.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Oris Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye”
A watch packed with history and pivotal in Oris’ destiny, the Big Crown Pointer Date saw the light in 1938. As the brand’s first dedicated pilot’s watch, the oversized crown was designed so pilots could operate the watch while wearing gloves in their unheated cockpits. With its legible Arabic numerals, graphic railway track, cathedral hands […]
Hodinkee
Essays: Here's To Growing Knowledge And Seeking The 'Whys' In 2026
There's a lot of "who" and "what" to talking about watchmaking, collecting, and history, but we need to think more about the "why."
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Christie's is BLOWING The Nautilus Auction | Rant&h;
SJX Watches
Finnish Finishing: Kortela Valta Unveils the Toka
The Toka from Finnish duo Roope Kortela and René Valta reflects the ongoing appeal of beautifully finished, time-only watches, combining a thoughtfully reworked historical calibre with the brand’s first champlevé enamel dial. With an emphasis on high-grade finishing and increasingly in-house components - including a proprietary free-sprung balance - the Toka is a strong sophomore effort from the startup independent. Rene Valta (foreground) and Roope Kortela Initial thoughts It’s been more than 25 years since Philippe Dufour unveiled the Simplicity, a watch that challenged prevailing wisdom about what fine watchmaking was all about. Launched at a time when brands and collectors were focused on complications, the Simplicity arguably created the niche for highly finished time-only watches and intensified collector focus on independent watchmaking in general. Though the field has become crowded over the past quarter-century, collector demand has proven durable. The Toka is a watch built in this tradition. The Omega calibre inside the Toka has been heavily reworked by Kortela Valta. The watchmakers kept most of the original architecture intact, while applying high-end finishing top to bottom. Furthermore, since the start of 2025, the watchmaking duo has expanded the list of components they’re able to make in-house, including the new free-sprung balance that differentiates the Toka from the Eka and Oma models that preceded it. The Toka features a fairly traditional...
Time+Tide
Seiko celebrates its 145th anniversary with a touch of gold across four different watch collections
Seiko kicks off its 2026 with a commemorative King Seiko, Prospex, Astron and Presage, all with gold accents that references Seiko history.The post Seiko celebrates its 145th anniversary with a touch of gold across four different watch collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – Seiko’s Set of 4 New Watches for its 145th Anniversary, incl. a Surprising Vintage Presage
Seiko has influenced and continues to shape modern horology as only a few watchmakers can. From its origins in 1881, when Kintaro Hattori opened a small shop in Tokyo, to becoming a global powerhouse in precision timekeeping, Seiko’s history is a register of constant innovation. Over the decades, the brand has delivered some of watchmaking’s […]
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Inside Mike Wood’s ‘For Exhibition Only’: A Private Rolex Collection On Limited Display
On the outskirts of Liverpool, collector Mike Wood staged a private exhibition of his vintage Rolex trove-a collection of over 200 pieces spanning the brand's storied history.
Worn & Wound
The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: The Great Clock of Westminster AKA ‘Big Ben’ – A Horological Marvel of Its Time
A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping. The Great Clock of Westminster, often known simply as Big Ben, is one of the most iconic landmarks in London and a symbol of the United Kingdom’s rich history and architectural brilliance. Housed in the Elizabeth Tower at the north end of the Palace of Westminster, the clock was completed in 1859 and has since become a celebrated masterpiece of Victorian engineering. Designed by clockmaker Edward John Dent and architect Augustus Pugin, the Great Clock is renowned for its remarkable accuracy and the deep, resonant chime of its massive bell, Big Ben. Over the decades, it has stood as a steadfast guardian of British tradition, witnessing countless historic moments and continuing to captivate visitors from around the world. Preliminary studies for the Big Ben clock tower, Houses of Parliament, Palace of Westminster, London. James Murray, 1840. Image courtesy of RIBA Charles Barry’s design for the Houses of Parliament did not originally include a clock tower. He was asked to include one and his first designs were added in 18...
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The Importance of History; Getting Back To Our Roots feat. The Urban Gentry and Federico I
Worn & Wound
Ruhla: The East German Watch Brand That Went to Space
For decades now, watch collectors have become enamored with the significance, popularity, and (perhaps most importantly) the absurd affordability of Soviet-era watches. There’s the ingenious Vostok Amphibia dive watch; the various Poljot and Strela chronographs vital to the Russian space program; and the minimalist, glossy-white Raketa Big Zero that signified “the end of history.” What’s lesser known are the timepieces from another part of the Iron Curtain-East Germany, which once encompassed two of the most significant areas of the historic watch industry. Today we associate German watches with the town of Glashütte, where Walter Lange set up a watchmaking school in 1841 and evolved it into one of the great horological houses. Meanwhile, about 300 kilometers to the west is the town of Ruhla. Like Glashütte, Ruhla was also known for metal mining and a tradition of blacksmithing and metalworking. After World War II, it also happened to fall into the Soviet occupation zone, even though it was as far west as one could get. Perhaps it was always fated for this. Image via Ostalgie-Ruhla: Watches of the GDR Both sides faced the evolution of pocket watches to wristwatches, on opposite sides of the World Wars. After 1945, the watch factories in Glashütte and Ruhla were reorganized into publicly-owned enterprises-having endured reparations back to Moscow (to jump-start the USSR’s own watch industry) and the general devastation of the war. Glashütte was a mor...
Worn & Wound
Year in Review: the Best “Money No Object” Watches of 2025
I’m long on record saying the mark of a genuine enthusiast is being able to get just as excited about a $100 Timex or G-Shock as about a $100,000 Rolex or Patek. I still think there’s something to that. Still, I also recognize that summing it up so patly, though convenient, ignores a huge amount of the nuance that undeniably exists in the watch space. It also ignores some of the fundamental impacts of price, including, crucially, attainability. After all, there are very few enthusiast pursuits (or, really, pursuits of any kind) where price and pursuit can be wholly siloed, and watches are not some rare example where we can afford to be price agnostic - at least, not most of us. Still, once in a while, it can be fun to just say screw it and enjoy watches for what they can be at their most extreme. Which brings us to the topic of today’s 2025 round-up, “F**k You Money” watches. The concept of a “F**k You Money” watch can be a bit nebulous. Unlike dive watches or chronographs, say, which either are or are not what they say they are, there’s no real set definition for what qualifies as “F**k You Money,” but like Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart and pornography, I may not be able to specifically articulate what qualifies as a F**k You Money watch, but I know it when I see it. gérald genta Geneva Minute Repeater You thought I was gonna start with some crazy Richard Mille or Jacob & Co., didn’t you? Well, this probably isn’t going to be that kind of...
Fratello
Hands-On: The New ISOfrane VS 1969 Straps
ISOfrane straps have a special place in diving history. As a 1960s creation, the original model became a fixture for divers due to its flexibility, durability, and comfort. Today, modern versions of the straps are used both for their original purpose and as everyday accompaniments. Until now, though, only one design was available. Today, we […] Visit Hands-On: The New ISOfrane VS 1969 Straps to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Vertex M36, a Compact Take on the British Field Watch
By now, the history of the Dirty Dozen military watches is probably well known to just about everyone who would be reading an article like this, but here is a brief overview for any of you stragglers. Over 80 years ago, as World War II was raging on, the British Ministry of Defence (M.O.D.) saw […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Best Rolex Watches For Women: From Ladies To Unisex
The Crown has a rich history of watchmaking for women dating back to Rolex’s infancy. After all, it was women who first began wearing watches on their wrists in the late 18th century, while men still preferred pocket watches before the convenience and utility of military field watches began to proliferate. Rolex’s first high-profile endorsement of its revolutionary waterproof Oyster case was worn by a female athlete, slung around the neck of British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze as she attempted to swim across the English Channel. Gleitz might not have made it all the way across on that try, but the watch came out unscathed after 10 hours in the cold water, ticking the time away accurately, making for amazing marketing fodder. Here in the 21st century, Rolex still offers a catalog with extensive sizing options and decorations on its most popular models. Of course, anyone can wear any watch they like, but there are several pieces that, as a woman myself, I find uniquely more compelling than others. So, we’re gathered here today to go on a journey through what I find to be the best Rolex watches for women available today, rounded up into a digestible guide for your reading pleasure. [toc-section heading="Lady-Datejust"] It only feels right to begin with the only Rolex model family that directly references a female consumer in its naming conventions. I get the argument that some think the name “Lady-Datejust” feels a bit dated, maybe even gauche (even bringing to...
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