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Monochrome
Known under the French name Guillochage, engine turning consists of adorning wood or metal with intertwined lines. It is an engraving technique that originated over five centuries ago. Initially, it was applied to soft materials such as wood and ivory before being adapted to metals, particularly for the craft of goldsmiths and silversmiths. Allegedly first […]
SJX Watches
One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaker Cédric Johner has joined forces with Louis Erard in a collaborative effort that has given birth to the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner. This regulator-style watch pays homage to Mr Johner’s signature Abyss case with its distinctive, hexagonal dial opening. And unlike other collaboration editions that were mostly design exercises, Mr Johner himself worked on each of these watches by decorating every rotor with his signature bead motif. Initial thoughts In contrast to the whimsical and striking Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein collaborations, the latest Le Régulateur has a more classical design but still manages to be different with its octagonal dial and crystal. Even though it is a round watch case, it doesn’t really seem so as a result of the crystal. And it is a homage to Mr Johner’s work in more ways than just aesthetics, as Mr Johner himself offered an Abyss regulator model back in the day. Interestingly, the restyled case arguably works better with the relatively chunky proportions of the Le Régulateur case, the dimensions of which also evokes the original Abyss that was also a solidly built shape. Reasonably priced at CHF4,000 (on par with last year’s Chaykin Time-Eater), this will appeal to collectors seeking more classical look while still having a little of the unique character of an independent watchmaker. Cédric Johner A more traditional-styled regulator A once successful watchmaker who then lost his brand...
SJX Watches
A smaller, feminine iteration of the famous chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster 38 mm is set apart by an unusual dial design characterised by oval sub-dials and a matching oval date window. Now the brand has grown the range to include new dial finished in metallic brown or green, both available in either steel or Omega’s proprietary gold alloys. Initial thoughts The new offerings grow the Speedmaster models catered to female consumers. Though the changes are mostly cosmetic, they are done well, with the diamonds set on the sub-dials being a particularly thoughtful detail that emphasises the oval form of the registers. At the same time, the new dial colours, which are physical vapour deposition (PVD) like other recent Omega dials, are attractive, though not new. That said, the Speedmaster 38 mm is essentially a scaled-down version of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Though shrinking a man’s watch is often the formula for ladies watches, this would have been more interesting with more substantive changes. This is particularly relevant in terms of the case thickness, which is almost 15 mm, resulting in chunky proportions that don’t complement the styling. The new models are priced as expected for chronograph set with diamonds: starting at US$17,400 in steel on a strap, and rising to US$46,400 in gold on a bracelet. The Speedmaster 38 mm in steel, 18k Moonshine Gold, and 18k Sedna Gold Diamonds and more The latest iterations are essentially luxury upgrades to the existing Spe...
Time+Tide
Omega expands the Speedmaster 38mm collection with a multitude of new models, choice of three materials, and two dial colours. There’s a choice of steel or Omega’s proprietary Sedna and Moonshine Gold alloys, and either brown or green sunburst dials, with the solid gold bracelets being a first for the collection. The pieces are powered … ContinuedThe post Omega launches a set of dazzling 38mm Speedmasters, with some collection-firsts (live pics and video) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
In 2021, Louis Erard collaborated with a Swiss design studio on the Le Régulateur x atelier oï, a strikingly minimalist regulator-style watch with a dial devoid of scales, indices, or branding. Originally presented in a restrained grey, this collaboration now returns with a brighter, gilt finish inspired by sundials in a notably small run of just 18 pieces. Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s newest offering has a captivating aesthetic that is both minimalist and striking, albeit not particularly legible. Unlike its predecessor, this has a more richer look with a golden dial that contrasts with the blued steel hands. The colour diverts the eyes towards the asymmetrical radial pattern engraved on the dial. The rest of the watch is identical to the earlier edition, which also means the same case as the standard regulator model. The downside of that is the thickness, which at over 12 mm is substantial for a watch with a relatively elegant design. The Atelier Oï regular is priced at CHF3,750, which is the prevailing price for most Louis Erard regulator editions, like the Oliver Mosset released in January. The new offering is a compelling timepiece for someone looking for something more artistic than the conventional offerings on the market. Inspired by a sundial The newest release follows on Louis Erard’s first collaboration with the Swiss design studio in 2021. With the exception of the dial colour, the watch retains the same specs as before. It has a regulator-style dial...
Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier elevates its Riviera to the next level of style with an openworked dial for the first time.The post Baume & Mercier take the Riviera to the next level with the new Riviera Squelette appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...
Monochrome
Released in 2021, the Chronoscope was a surprising take on the classic Speedmaster, combining a large case, a two-counter dial (usually found in larger versions and racing-oriented models) with a vintage-inspired dial bearing no fewer than three snailed-shaped tracks. Untouched since its presentation, which included steel and bronze-gold versions, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope collection now […]
Fratello
Trilobe is a brand that impresses watch fans more and more with every release. This year is no different for the young Parisian watchmaker. Building on the success of the Les Matinaux collection, Trilobe introduces its first complicated watch. The Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Series is its first take on a moonphase watch. But if […] Visit Trilobe Introduces The Stellar Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Series to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
Rolex has unveiled a luxe version of one of its top-of-the-line divers, the Deepsea ref. 136668 LB, which boasts a blue lacquer dial paired with a yellow gold case and bracelet. The timepiece makes a significant statement while preserving all the depth performance associated with its steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. Initial thoughts Rolex has been hinting at forthcoming novelties on social media for a while, sparking anticipation among enthusiasts like myself who speculated that perhaps a new Submariner model was in development. However, the brand surprised us with something pretty unexpected. The new Deepsea features the iconic blue and yellow gold colour scheme reminiscent of past Submariner models, which adds a touch of nostalgia to the release. With a diameter of 44 mm, this watch carries considerable weight, especially with its heavy yellow gold construction, which adds substantial heft to the wrist. Priced at US$52,100, it far surpasses the cost of comparable steel models, which are roughly a third of its price. However, considering the solid yellow gold construction, the price is fitting, considering the current market climate. Blue and yellow gold The latest model is a successor to the steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. It maintains the renowned pressure-resistant architecture, with a ceramic compression ring and the Ringlock system for the bezel. Sporting a vibrant blue hue, the bezel, compression ring and dial all sharply contrast with the gilded gold lettering on the dial a...
Monochrome
First introduced in 2016, the handsome Monsieur de Chanel collection stands out by the refined, geometric layout of its dial with from top to bottom the retrograde minutes, the seconds, and the jump hour window. Originally offered in precious metals, the watch was later released in different high-tech, still retaining the elegance you would expect […]
Worn & Wound
Following the success of last year’s glassbox Carrera chronograph releases, Tag Heuer extends the collection with a new for 2024 bi-compax panda look in stainless steel. This watch features a silver brushed sunray dial, with a black minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, a black hour chronograph totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a permanent seconds indicator in silver at 6 o’clock. Dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 46mm from lug-to-lug, and just under 14mm thick. Revealed through its sapphire display back is the in-house chronograph movement Heuer 02 (Ref.TH20-00). It features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. What made last year’s releases so appealing was their new combination of a concave dial and outward convex tachymeter rehaut, which hugged the outer curvature of the glassbox sapphire crystal. The look is quite frankly mesmerizing, and it has completely rejuvenated the Carrera line. This harmonious blend of vintage tribute, contemporary elegance, and novelty truly embody the spirit for which TAG Heuer is renowned. Retail pricing for the tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph is $6,650 USD, for more information visit www.tagheuer.com. The post TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
These new Cosmograph Daytonas come with contrasting Mother-of-Pearl Dials and Diamonds – a subdued gem-set flex.
Hodinkee
Four pieces get the green sunray treatment all wrapped up in 18K Pink Gold.
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Monochrome
This year is all about the Portugieser for IWC, and the brand brings several spending novelties to the table, including updated icons within the already iconic collection. Next to the Portugieser Chronograph receiving an aesthetic update, there are a couple more things to talk about. As a collection, the Portugieser can trace back its roots […]
Monochrome
Patek Philippe releases a new white gold reference of its popular Aquanaut Travel Time with a greyish-blue dial and matching strap. While many Patek fans mourned the discontinuation of the 5164A stainless steel Aquanaut earlier this year, the new white gold reference – a first for this model – is a handsome addition to the […]
Fratello
Last year, Rolex introduced the new Cosmograph Daytona collection, which featured a slightly more refined design than its predecessor and was met with great praise. This year, The Crown cranks up the bling with two diamond-set models with mother-of-pearl dials. While that may sound super flashy, these new models show wonderful restraint for a pair […] Visit Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Gold Daytona Models With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials to read the full article.
Fratello
We see a few new additions to the Rolex Day-Date collection every year. This unofficial flagship of Rolex breathes nothing but luxury as it is always in precious metals. It’s also the only Rolex model available today on a President bracelet. Day-Date 40 Rolex brings us two beautiful dials in the Day-Date 40 collection this […] Visit Hot Take: New Dials For The Rolex Day-Date 40 And 36 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Hublot Big Bang Integrated is now available in a new 38mm size, and with solid dials that mark a first-ever for the collection.The post Hublot reveals new Big Bang Integrated models with first-ever solid dials and 38mm size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
TAG Heuer is launching an upmarket of its sailing chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2024: the Carrera Chronograph Skipper in 18k rose gold is essentially the same as the steel iteration released in 2023, save for the precious metal case. Employing the well received “Glassbox” case, the Skipper has the signature domed dial flange that acts as an inner bezel, accentuated by a domed sapphire crystal. Unique to the Skipper model are the teal sub-dial at nine and the tri-colour register at three, both modelled on the vintage original. Initial Thoughts I am a fan of the Carrera Glassbox. It’s a surprisingly versatile model – some variants have a no-nonsense style that bring to mind the original racing chronographs of the 1960s, while others like the Skipper are strikingly coloured. Most variants nonetheless are inspired by the vintage Carrera in all its flavours. None of the other Carrera models come close to the Skipper’s sunburst blue dial with teal accents; it looks quite splendid under the sun. Not to mention that the Skipper happens to be very wearable at 39 mm. Whether the gold version is an appealing proposition is another questions altogether. Most would opt for the steel Skipper just as a matter of budget. That said, the rose gold Skipper at CHF 21,000, is an acceptable value proposition as solid-gold chronographs go. Its competitive advantage lies in the appealing, historically-inspired design and in-house column wheel chronograph movement – there are lots o...
Worn & Wound
When Nivada relaunched the F77, the brand’s long dormant integrated bracelet sports watch, it landed with a positive reception but was, maybe, seen as a little unremarkable. It paid tribute to the original, maintaining its sleek 37mm case and a sporty profile, but didn’t really do a whole lot to set itself apart from the many other integrated bracelet sports watch options out there. Now, with the second F77 collection hitting just a year later, Nivada has tried something genuinely different for watches in this category, putting a much greater emphasis on the dial, offering a range of choices that approach the exotic. The watch is also now in a new metal, titanium, that will perhaps make it that much more desirable to those looking for an alternative to more common watches in this style. The “basket weave” dial motif that was introduced in last year’s launch returns here but in just one of the four variants Nivada will be making available. The anthracite gray execution of the titanium F77 is the most straightforward of the new models, and the one that’s most closely linked to previous versions. The real story here though is in those other three dial variants. Nivada will be offering the F77 in meteorite, lapis lazuli, and aventurine, with the general idea being that the brand is both “looking skyward” and “breaking new ground” with dials evoking deep space as well as the earth itself. That’s clever marketing, but it’s backed up in this case by Niva...
SJX Watches
London-based Bamford Watch Department’s latest is the B80 Limited Edition, a collaboration with Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam. In keeping with Bamford’s vintage-with-a-twist house style, the B80 boasts a “ghost” dial with a gradient finish and numerals inspired by historical military watches. The 39 mm titanium case has a black finished that’s been treated to appear aged. Initial Thoughts There is something about all-black watches that makes them cool. Part of it is the no-nonsense, military-instrument look they evoke. Black-coated watches, at least most of them, suffer from a major drawback - coatings wear off in time, resulting in a worn look that is more often than not unappealing. But here the wear has been done in advance for a fuss-free watch. According to the duo behind the B80, this is a “tool” watch conceived according to the notion “if [the watch is] too perfect, fix it”. Bamford, a company that got its start by modifying Rolex watches, often with vintage inspired styling and black-coated cases, is perhaps poking fun at its roots with the worn-out PVD finish of the B80. Even the dial features a “smoked” patina along with hands and indices with aged lume, thereby creating a “vintage” watch. But as with most Bamford watches – the brand now mostly makes original watches under its own name – the B80 is affordable and imbued with a spirit of fun. The back, for instance, is engraved with “You’re Ace”, and the watch is delivered with a...
Monochrome
Watchmaking is often touted to be about creativity and expressiveness, but when it comes to dials, brands tend to be a touch conservative. Simple silver, black or blue, however beautifully crafted they are, can be a bit, well, plain. And to some perhaps even boring. Luckily there are brands who dare to break those boundaries […]
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Constellation Vintage Omega Constellations are highly sought after, especially the classic pie-pan dial with dog leg lugs like this sweet 1966 example. The steel case is in great shape, even though it’s likely felt the touch of a polishing wheel. The dog leg lugs still show their chamfers and the observatory medallion on the back is nice and clear. The silver pie-pan dial looks original and is in excellent condition. The caliber 561 Chronometer movement is clean and runs well per the seller. It comes on an original Omega beads of rice bracelet, but I don’t think it is original to this watch. Overall very clean example of a very desirable vintage Omega. View auction here Squale Sigel Diver Next up is a rare vintage Squale Medium diver. This example is a Squale Sigel, with black dial and two-tone acrylic bezel insert. This Medium Squale case is 34mm wide, with a slightly asymmetrical shape. The case shows some honest wear, but nothing bad. The black dial has some patina on the lume and hands, as well as on the two-tone acrylic bezel insert. That said, vintage Squale divers are hard to find and always in demand by collectors. This one even has the correct ‘Von’ si...
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