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Quill & Pad
G-Shock is a sub-brand of Casio that is designed to withstand mechanical stress, vibrations, and shocks. It's a great affordable watch, but is it still worth buying? Raman Kalra certainly thinks so and explains why.
Teddy Baldassarre
A watch complication, by definition, is any function offered by a timepiece that is in addition to its primary function of keeping the time. Despite the name, watch complications don't really have to be, well, all that complicated: that date display you glance at before signing a check qualifies as a complication even though it's not nearly as complex and dynamic as, say, the split-seconds chronograph you use to time racing laps or the world-time function you consult before making a call home on an international business trip. Here we run down the major watch complications from the simplest to the most mechanically sophisticated, and provide an example of each. Date Complications: Date Window Probably the most common of “small complications,” this is simply a display of the date via a numbered disk that passes under an aperture in the dial, usually positioned at 3 o’clock, 4:30, or 6 o’clock. Unless the watch is an annual or perpetual calendar, this date will need to be manually adjusted forward at the end of any month shorter than 31 days. Some watches, like the Rolex Submariner, enlarge this display by placing a magnifying lens over the window. Large Date This one also goes by “big date” “grande date,” or “panorama date,’ and is essentially just a larger version of the standard date display, though it usually uses two date disks (one for the tens numeral and the other for the ones) rather than one, and a double window, with each numeral appearing in...
Worn & Wound
If you look at the most recent crop of releases from Yema, they tend to be explicitly vintage inspired, or calling upon the brand’s past, in one way or another. The Urban Traveler is their take on a 1970s era integrated bracelet sports watch, and a new Rallygraf, with a look dating to a similar time period, also appeared earlier this summer. So their latest release, the Sous Marine dive watch, feels quite a bit different, in that this really has the appearance of a contemporary sports watch in a variety of key ways. Designed with help from Jason Washington, a Yema ambassador and professional diver, the Sous Marine has the trappings of a modern “pro” dive watch, but remains accessible to desk divers and those looking for some color and competence in an everyday piece. The stainless steel case, which is water resistant to 300 meters, was designed to be compact and wearable, and measures 40.5mm in diameter while being just a hair over 12mm tall (including the sapphire crystal). The muscular crown guards are perhaps the first clue that this watch wasn’t designed purely by browsing old Yema catalogs. The aluminum bezel insert is perhaps a small remnant of the way these things used to be made, but even there the Arabic numerals and and hash marks to aid in timing have been given a luminescent treatment, which to me often feels like a wholeheartedly “contemporary” design decision. The dial is split into multiple sectors, with an inner ring in white that displays t...
Time+Tide
This new Grand Seiko 44GS steel Spring Drive trio uses katana artistry as a muse for their dials The SBGA489 and SBGA491 introduce a new dial texture inspired by Japanese tamahagane steel The SBGA493, a limited edition of 500 pieces, has a fiery red dial that encapsulates the emanating sparks from the forging of a … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Mr. Jones, the brand whose slogan is “The Most Unique British Watches,” continues to update their eclectic collection with mechanical versions of their most popular and talked about quartz watches. Back in April, we told you about the mechanical release of “A Perfectly Useless Afternoon,” a watch that told time via a display that brings one of the laziest activities imaginable – floating aimlessly in a pool – into fluid motion on the wrist. That design is a perfect example of the Mr. Jones ethos, which is to use a watch dial as a blank canvas to tell a story in a highly specific way, and to get people talking. Their watches, while certainly not to every taste, are undeniably full of ideas, and remarkably creative in a way that most watches simply aren’t, as the brand isn’t inspired by traditional watchmaking. The newest watch in their mechanical collection actually does take an idea that has existed in watchmaking for just about as long as the practice has existed, the memento mori, and puts a uniquely Mr. Jones spin on it. “The Accurate” doesn’t use traditional memento mori iconography, but it is, as the brand says, the most accurate watch ever made. The Mr. Jones collection is full of visual puns, and The Accurate is a good example. The words “remember you will die” appear spread across the hour and minute hands, such that whenever you read the time, you get a not-so-subtle reminder of your own mortality. This, of course, is the point of a mem...
SJX Watches
Tissot has gone decidedly retro with its latest pair, the Heritage 1938 and the Heritage Small Second 1938. The designs reinterpret the brand’s watches of the 1930s, but are presented in a modern-yet-compact 39 mm case containing COSC-certified ETA movements. Initial thoughts Tissot has been enjoying success with the sporty PRX collection and the 1970s-style Sideral. However, it didn’t have many compelling dress watches in its catalogue until now. Therefore, this vintage-inspired pair captured my interest. Between the two, my preference is for the Heritage 1938, a straightforward three-hander. As one who appreciates classical proportions, I like the tasteful dial and compact 39 mm case. Having said that, “Chronometre” at six o’clock feels somewhat incongruous and could have been omitted altogether. At the same time, the small-seconds model has a date that three that just doesn’t look right. With a price of US$825 for the three-hander and US$1,050 for the small-seconds, the two are appropriately priced considering the movement and specs. Tissot’s sister company Longines offers higher-spec version of the same movements in its dress watches, but for more money. Vintage-inspired Tissot’s Heritage collection is all about reinterpreting historical timepieces. True to the name, the 1938 is reminiscent of the watches produced during the 1930s. The 1938 is available in two variations: a three-hander and a small-seconds. The three-hander is available in either m...
Quill & Pad
It has always surprised Martin Green that mechanical movements running at a high frequency have never become more popular. Chopard joined this exclusive club in 2012 with the L.U.C 8HF and now releases a follow-up with the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, which also boasts an 8 Hz escapement.
Worn & Wound
Brew has been on a hot streak with their Metric ever since the first examples were shown back in the summer of 2021. In the time since, brand owner and designer Jonathan Ferrer has iterated on the basic Metric principles to great effect, adding new dial colors as well as gold and black PVD coated cases that transform the 1970s sport watch in terms of its character and overall presentation. But until now, the Metric had always been built on the same Meca-quartz platform, with a VK68 hybrid movement built by Seiko that allows for quartz timekeeping and a mechanical chronograph operation. Today, Brew unveils the Metric Automatic, the first Metric powered by a mechanical movement, and the first non-chronograph in the line. A lot of the design cues here will feel very familiar to Metric owners and longtime Brew fans. The 1970s vibes of the original Metric (as well as watches like the Retrograph and Retromatic) really come primarily from the case, which in the case of the Metric resembles a rounded square, with a bracelet that appears to be integrated to the case. The size is also key – the Metric Automatic comes in at the same svelte dimensions as its Meca-quartz counterpart, with a diameter of 36mm, a lug to lug span of 41.5mm, and a case height of just 10.75mm. It’s a refreshingly compact design, and really does feel like a vintage watch on the wrist. For this first mechanical Metric, we get a simple black dial with chunky hour markers and Arabic numerals counting off...
Worn & Wound
Some things are as sure as the rising sun, and in the Land of the Rising Sun, that means nature-inspired dials from Seiko…King Seiko, to be exact. As friendly divisional rivals in the 60s and early 70s, the workshops of King Seiko and Grand Seiko challenged one another while pushing the technical and aesthetic envelope of Japanese watchmaking. While some consider GS victorious as the KS name was sunsetted in 1975, the reality is that both were instrumental in establishing Seiko’s mid-century identity. More recently, Grand Seiko has spun off as a high-end, independent brand, and the King Seiko nameplate was rebooted in February of last year as a more premium offering within Seiko. Today, we take a look at a watch that isn’t entirely new yet brings an interesting flourish to the recently resurrected collection. The SJE095’s specifications are reasonable for the average wrist: 38.6mm x 45.8mm x 10.7mm, 5 bar water resistance, and powered by in-house caliber 6L35 (28,800 vph, 45 hour power reserve, +15/-10s a day) with a date complication and boxed sapphire crystal. Like the other SJE and SPB-reference King Seikos, it features a striking stainless steel case, sharp angles, and expansive flat surfaces, attributes of the original 1965 KSK on which the entire modern KS line is based. This new dial features a self-repeating pattern of circles and fine lines known as kiku tsunagi-mon. This particular design holds special significance in Japanese culture for several reasons....
![[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/Girard-Perregaux_006.jpg)
Worn & Wound
There’s not much left to say about the resurgence of the integrated bracelet sport watch and the many modern iterations we’ve seen on the theme. Some have history, many more don’t, and it certainly hasn’t gotten any easier to decipher the unique elements that make one stand out from another. I’d argue that this comes down to execution which, when paired with a historically relevant and idiosyncratic approach, tends to produce the best example of the genre. Though that’s not a rule, merely a subjective observation. One of the more peculiar examples of this is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, a watch that was released smack in the middle of the ‘70s, designed by an Italian architect, and has experienced a slightly tumultuous lineage, all leading to this graceful 38mm reference with copper dial. The Laureato has an interesting and varied history, yet is often absent from the discussion around great sport watches of the ‘70s. It wasn’t designed by Gerald Genta, like the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur watches of the same era, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a great origin story. Similarly to those other watches, the original design holds up remarkably well today, and Girard-Perregaux has preserved the core of the Laureato admirably, though some less than flattering eras to boot. $14900 [VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 Case Stainless Steel Movement GP03300 Dial Copper Clous de Paris Lume Super LumiNova Lens Sapphi...
Deployant
Tudor releases two new Pelagos FXD references. The Alinghi Red Bull Racing Editions feature a chronograph and a time only watch inspired by yacht racing.
Hodinkee
In 2012, we recommended our five best buys in vintage Rolex for under $8,000. A decade later, we revisit those picks and make some new ones.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: What makes the Time+Tide team tick? That’s what we want to try and uncover in this new series that will turn the spotlight on the horological preference, quirks and prejudices of our teams of contributors and editors. This week, Time+Tide’s Deputy Editor Borna Bošnjak takes the hot seat. When did you first become … ContinuedThe post A Question of Time: 10 questions with the Time+Tide team – Borna Bošnjak appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
If you’re after an aviation styled watch, that can go from the beach to the boardroom, then the Bremont Fury may just be the watch for you! We wrist tested it for a couple of weeks, and here’s what we thought… What We Love The textured dialThe aviation stylingPower reserve indicator at 6 o’clock What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dialLack of character in the strapUnsure of what category of watch to fit it in Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 As you may know from previous articles we’ve written on Bremont and its founders, Giles and Nick English, you no doubt be aware of their love of aviation, and the reasons for starting up Bremont over 20 years ago. If not, then you can get brought up to speed in our interview with Giles here. So it’s no surprise that when they were designing their H1 series of watches with the Bremont assembled movement (the first for the brand) that one of these pieces had to be a pilots inspired watch. The Bremont Fury in blue – a modern take on the classic pilot’s watch. The Fury was that piece in both a blue and black colourway, designed to be a contemporary take on the classic aviation watch. I first saw this piece in person when I caught up with Giles back in April, and liked what I saw. So needless to say it was one of their pieces that I immediately wanted to put on my wrist to see how it wore and looked as I went about my day to day. When asked which colour I wanted...
Hodinkee
Glashütte Original reimagines its Senator Chronometer crafted in white gold with a hand finished dial in shades of silver and blue – complete with haptic feedback!
Worn & Wound
More and more, the luxury industry is looking to redefine what it means to be a “neutral” color. Instead of black, why not try a dark red? Instead of tan, a hunter green may do the trick. And if navy is a bit passe, then perhaps a lighter blue has just as much sophistication, but with a bit more impact on the wrist. Or, at least that’s the case with Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sky Blue. Inspired by summer sunshine and the cloudless skies that accompany it, Hublot’s latest watch is vibrant while remaining refined. To accomplish this balance, Hublot has leaned into their brand identity as a watchmaker that marries technical precision with a robust design language. The watch has a strong presence on the wrist at 42mm, which is enhanced by the added details, such as the metal rivets, crown, and complementary colored strap. The case of the watch itself is made of high-tech, ultra-tough ceramic, something the Swiss brand has become known for in the industry, that gives Hublot a lot of control over the color of their end product. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is powered by an in-house automatic movement called the Unico. Composed of 354 pieces and providing over 72-hours of power reserve, the Unico HUB1280 movement is a celebration of the Swiss watchmaking tradition. Like many watches in Hublot’s various collections, the Sky Blue has a skeletonized dial, allowing the wearer to witness the internal workings of this watch throughout the day. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is l...
Hodinkee
Hosted by Phillips in Association with Bacs and Russo in partnership with the British Horological Institute and the Museum of Timekeeping.
Time+Tide
The latest edition of the Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton has been redesigned to better embrace the calibre H-10-S It’s available in 40mm or 36mm configurations The H-10-S boasts an 80-hour power reserve and some nice decoration The Hamilton Jazzmaster is a bit of an outlier within their catalogue. It’s not famous like the Murph or Ventura, … ContinuedThe post The new Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton shows off its beating heart better than before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having signed on as the sponsor for the Swiss syndicate competing in the 2024 America’s Cup, Tudor recently unveiled the Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”. Both watches have carbon composite cases – a first for Tudor – while the FXD Chrono is an entirely new model. The two timepieces mark Tudor’s partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but are also official-issue watches for the team, so the crew of Alinghi are wearing either one of the two, both during training and as they challenge for the 37th America’s Cup taking place next year. Key takeaways Both feel more solid than expected for carbon-composite cases, which is reassuring. The carbon composite cases have the same design and detail as their equivalent metal counterparts. The blue and black colour combination is unusual and takes some getting used to, while the branding on the flange is not apparent on the wrist. The value proposition is outstanding as expected for Tudor. The chronograph has an edge in terms of appeal due to its slightly better value proposition as well as the visual appeal of the complication matched with the Pelagos design. Pelagos FXD Chrono (left), and Pelagos FXD Initial thoughts Tudor watches usually look much as they do in photos, but the two Alinghi watches look quite different, and much better, in real life, particular in terms of dial colour. The dial colour appears purplish in the stock images, but it’s a dark blue ...
Time+Tide
You may have a general idea of the watches a list like this would include. Of course, going for timeless and classic designs is going to be a solid option for any 21st birthday present, especially if it’s robust enough to survive most people’s wildest decade and keep those memories throughout their life. There are … ContinuedThe post The best kinds of watches you should buy for a 21st birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Once dubbed “The King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings” by no less a personage than King Edward VII of England, Cartier is regarded by many watch aficionados as a jewelry house first and a watchmaker second - and a watchmaker prone to feminine, jewel-bedecked watches at that. Historically, however, nothing could be further from the truth. Cartier’s horological roots run even deeper than its high-jewelry history, and the French-Swiss luxury powerhouse has contributed some of the most historic and influential watch designs in the world, many of them aimed at men long before their appeal expanded to women. Family Foundations Louis-Francois Cartier (above, 1819-1904) apprenticed under master watchmaker Adolphe Piccard before founding his eponymous company, at the age of 28, in Piccard’s Parisian workshop in 1847. As Cartier’s watches and jewelry found widespread success, and an esteemed client list that included royalty like Princess Mathilde, cousin of Napoleon III, the firm moved to more luxurious quarters in the Palais-Royal District and eventually to the current world headquarters at 13 Rue de la Paix. Louis-Francois passed the reins of the growing company to his son Alfred in 1874, and Alfred brought in his sons to succeed him toward the end of the 19th Century. It was this third generation of family ownership, under brothers Pierre, Jacques, and Louis Cartier, that truly catapulted Cartier from the boundaries of France to the world stage. While Jacqu...
Worn & Wound
The latest release from Oris, and one that highlights their ongoing Change for the Better initiative, is a sequel of sorts to a watch that became a cult hit when it was released in 2021. The Dat Watt Limited Edition II is very much in the same vein as the original Dat Watt Limited Edition, but with a few twists to make this new LE its own thing. Its release comes alongside an announcement from Oris that they’ve extended their relationship with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS) by another two years, the organization that works to protect the Wadden Sea, which provides the inspiration for the new watch. The Wadden Sea covers 11,500 square kilometers in northern Europe, and includes shoreline in Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands. This intertidal zone is a unique geographical space in that it happens to be the world’s largest unbroken tidal flats system, and is in a largely undisturbed state, thanks in part to the efforts of the CWSS. Because of the area’s size and the fact that it has been so well protected, it’s an important area for the study of the 10,000 species that live there. The Wadden Sea has held UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 2009 based on its importance to global biodiversity. Like the first Dat Watt Limited Edition, this new release uses the Aquis diver as a platform, here in its 43.5mm footprint. The dial’s green tone is inspired by the waters in the Wadden Sea’s salt marshes, which act as critical natural storage for CO2. Thi...
![[VIDEO] Review: the Sublimely Sage Ressence Type 8S](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/Ressence_Type-8S-Sage-Green_010.jpg)
Worn & Wound
There is a big difference between seeing a watch at a trade show, meetup, or boutique and living with one. In the former experiences, it’s very easy to be immediately taken with something. The energy of the environment, the thrill of trying on watches, perhaps a champagne or two, create a level of excitement that overlays everything you touch and see. As such, the watches we get to experience in these shows need to be taken out into the less flattering light of the real world to truly know if that excitement was genuine, or just a by-product of the situation in which they were introduced. One brand I’ve always been very taken with, especially when I’ve gotten to handle their wares at Watches and Wonders, is Ressence. For those unfamiliar with the Haute-independent brand, it was founded by Benoît Mintiens in 2010 with the goal of rethinking how a watch displays time. The solution found didn’t recreate the wheel, though it did heavily modify it. Utilizing a patented module design called the Ressence Orbital Convex System or ROCS, Mintiens, an industrial designer by trade, eliminated the use of classic hands. Instead, the whole dial becomes an active surface for telling the time with satellite sub-registers floating within a larger, always-in-motion, display. In 2022 they unveiled the Type 8, their simplest and lowest-priced model. The following year, they introduced it in a lovely, pale green and called it the Type 8S, for sage. Both years I left their booth a bit g...
Deployant
Seiko continues to focus on their high end King Seiko, and releases a new reference with a Edo-kiriko style geometric dial. Here is teh SJE095.
SJX Watches
Longines’ contemporary diver that’s been in the catalogue for over 16 years, the Hydroconquest now gets an upgrade with a new complication. The Hydroconquest GMT is the first model in the line-up with a dual time zone. In contrast to the bolder-looking time-only counterparts, the new GMT is accompanied by a pared-back, legible dial complemented with a unidirectional ceramic bezel and the brand’s latest automatic calibre. Initial thoughts The Hydroconquest tends to receive less attention compared to dive watches from other brands in this price range. In my view, this can be ascribed to its dial design that was bold with oversized numerals positioned at six, nine, and 12, yet not particularly distinctive. Longines probably realised this and smartly developed a new timepiece with a practical complication while tweaking the dial layout and getting rid of these oversized numerals. The shift from oversized numerals to more conventional indices is particularly notable on the green and brown dials where the colours underscore the carefully thought-out design. Purists might argue for eliminating the date window to further streamline the dial, though that would remove one of the key elements of a traditional GMT watch. The Hydroconquest GMT is priced at US$2,675 on a NATO strap, with a rubber strap or steel bracelet available for an extra US$100. This is good value, particularly since the watch includes a bona fide GMT function with an independent local-time hour hand, all f...
Time+Tide
When it comes to big watch fairs like Watches & Wonders Geneva, it’s often the brands that aren’t officially exhibiting at the show that have some of the most exciting releases. Step out of the frenetic hive of activity that is Palexpo and go exploring Geneva’s streets, hotels and bars and you’ll find all manner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
One of us! One of us! One of the first forays into watch enthusiasm is changing out the stock strap to something a little bit more your style. Sure, the OEM straps are fine, but there’s a whole world of aftermarket offerings that can totally switch up the look and feel of your watch. The best part? It’s quick and easy to do, and you only need a few key tools to get the job done right. Whether you’re popping your new dive watch off the bracelet and onto a nato, or switching over that field watch from the cheapy faux-leather strap to something more premium, swapping straps is a fun way to get even more out of your current collection of watches. This guide breaks down some of the essentials you’ll need to get started, so let’s jump in. One of us! One of us! One of the first forays into watch enthusiasm is changing out the stock strap to something a little bit more your style. Sure, the OEM straps are fine, but there’s a whole world of aftermarket offerings that can totally switch up the look and feel of your watch. The best part? It’s quick and easy to do, and you only need a few key tools to get the job done right. Whether you’re popping your new dive watch off the bracelet and onto a nato, or switching over that field watch from the cheapy faux-leather strap to something more premium, swapping straps is a fun way to get even more out of your current collection of watches. This guide breaks down some of the essentials you’ll need to get started, so let’s ...
Time+Tide
It may come as a bit of a surprise, but I often compare Rolex and Cartier due to a strong commonality. Yes, they are very different brands with very different products. But an element I believe they do share is a very key point. Watch enthusiasts often point out that Rolex practises incremental updates. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches returns with a look at a plethora of new releases that include updates from Christopher Ward, Glashütte Original, Nomos, and Tissot. Everyone has a new dial color or case size, it would seem, but they all work well here, bringing new renditions to old favorites, and further dialing in already great platforms. The big news this week comes from Longines, who redesigned their HydroConquest family with a new collection of GMT watches. Unique colorways and a few odd details on the dial preserve some of that classic HydroConquest character, while showing some serious sings of maturity in the process. In other news, we’re about a year away from the 2024 summer Olympic games in Paris, and Omega is ready to kick things off with a new Seamaster 300 commemorating the games. Omega and the Olympics go way back, like way way back, so it’s no surprise to see Omega getting a head start on things with a new LE, and we suspect that this won’t be the last to do so. Finally, can you ever have too much of a good thing? Tissot doesn’t think so, and just keeps iterating on the wildly popular PRX range, most recently with new dial colors and even a fully gold plated example in their 35mm Powermatic 80 PRX line. It should come as no surprise that they work rather well. Catch more details on these watches in our full intro. Reminder that you can catch us again in 2 weeks for more watches, people, and news in episode 62 of A Week In Watches. The post A Week In Watches, Ep....
Quill & Pad
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6007A marked a physical and spiritual shift for the brand and may be one of the most un-Calatrava Calatravas of recent memory. Joshua Munchow takes a look at what made this model an outlier and also why it simultaneously didn't come from left field.
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