Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

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Worn & Wound

Ulysse Nardin s Freak X Gets Sep 19, 2023

Ulysse Nardin’s Freak X Gets the Green Treatment

There’s a narrative that has emerged around the Ulysse Nardin Freak over the years that its an extremely niche product, and something of a difficult watch to fully wrap your arms around. It’s strange, yes, even avant-garde, but as I’ve spent more time considering the Freak, I’ve come around to the other side of this story. I wonder, how can anyone not love the Freak? Even if it’s not to your specific taste, the Freak is an original, and one of a handful of truly important designs that would set the stage for a generation of interesting, independent watchmaking that we’re still living through today. The Freak might not be for everyone, but everyone should be able to agree that there’s something special about it.  The latest Freak, the Freak [X OPS] is part of the still relatively new Freak X lineup, a collection that aims to make the watch more approachable. Blake went hands-on with a Freak X here, and both the review and video (complete with commentary from a watchmaker) are worth a look if you’re new to the Freak universe. But the gist of the Freak X is relatively easy to understand: it’s smaller than a traditional Freak, and it has a crown. Historically, the Freak was marketed as a watch with “No Dial, No Hands, No Crown.” A curious rallying cry for sure, and a tough thing to picture. But when you see it, it all (kind of) makes sense. For me, the addition of a crown doesn’t feel like too much of a transgression. The visual impression of the Freak...

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Worn & Wound

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work Sep 18, 2023

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions

When two masters in their respective industry collide, something magic is sure to happen. That’s exactly the feeling one gets when looking at Rado, the Master of Materials, and Le Corbusier, the master of design, as the two legacies meld into a release of new references. Adding three new colorways selected from the 63-shade Architectural Polychromy palette to the distinct True Square collection, we’re seeing a heightened look at craftsmanship and design that shows the sum is often greater than its parts. Rado has long had a relationship with the Foundation Le Corbusier for their True Thinline set of watches, but these three new releases from the brand are the first to utilize the sportier design of the True Square silhouette. This design is marked by a high-tech ceramic case coming in at a comfortable and discreet 37 x 43.3 mm, perfect for nearly any wrist size. The real beauty of this watch is the balance of technical precision and everyday use, mixing a Rado caliber R420 quartz movement with high-tech innovative ceramic that Rado has become known for within the industry. For the three colorways themselves, each taken from the Architectural Polychromy, they’re a sleek and subtle scheme that fits perfectly against the backdrop of both Le Corbusier’s and Rado’s Swiss heritage. This collection includes Natural Umber, Iron Grey, and Ivory Black. The use of ceramic perfectly matches the tonal qualities of these three references, as Rado has perfected color blending w...

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WatchAdvice

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Jaeger-LeCoultre rel... Sep 17, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre released their latest Polaris Chronograph a couple of weeks ago, and we had the first look, and quite frankly it’s stunning. Now we’ve gone hands on to review the blue dial variant! What We Love Super comfortable on the wristBeautiful textured lacquered dialLegibility and lume both day and night What We Don’t Clasp is a little fiddly with no push buttonNon-screw down crown makes me nervous on WRMovement isn’t as finished as you would expect Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 The Polaris is a quiet hit for Jaeger-LeCoultre in my opinion, and the new Chronograph released at the start of September was a nice surprise to most. We were lucky enough to get our hands on it before it’s release, and you can read the details on it here. However, being able to wear it around for a week for review really gives you a sense of how this watch really wears and looks on the wrist. In short, the blue dial pops, but recently, we also compared it to the grey dial variant, call it curiosity to see which is better – my initial thoughts are… it’s a very hard choice! The new Polaris Chronograph in Blue and grey dials The Design Let me say this first. The JLC Polaris Chronograph needs to be seen and felt in person. Photo’s really don’t do it justice, especially the texturing and gradient through the centre and main part of the dial. Both the blue and grey variants differ in this aspect, and whilst we’...

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Worn & Wound

Panerai Sep 16, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Camera from Fujifilm, an Exciting Navy SEALs Collection from Panerai, and Jann Wenner Looks Back on Rolling Stone and the Baby Boomers

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. This week’s Watches, Stories and Gear is sponsored by Panerai. Check out the new Panerai Navy SEALs collection below. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com DP Review Dives into an Exciting new Fujifilm Camera  Photo courtesy DP Review The latest from Fujifilm is generating a lot of conversation among photographers and videographers alike for its slick design and impressive feature set. The just announced GFX 100 II is a medium format camera that features loads of new tech, like an AI based autofocus system that quickly recognizes potential subjects, and a 102 MP BSI CMOS 44x33mm medium format sensor. Best of all, this camera shares a body style with the much loved GFX 100S, prized for its easy to handle small size, but with many of the technical features of the original GFX 100. DP Review has a detailed breakdown of the new camera right here, which seems to offer a ton of value even at the high asking price of $7,500. Panerai Launches an All New, Wide Ranging Navy SEALs Collection For the first time ever, a new collection of Panerais made in partnership with the Navy SEALs will be available internationally, with a sele...

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Worn & Wound

Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD in Black

Tudor expands their FXD family today with a new regular production reference that features a black dial and bezel. The watch follows the same formula as the Marine Nationale FXD that was released in late 2021, a flat 12.7mm thick, 42mm titanium case with a fixed lug design. There are a few changes here worth noting, however, and this might just be the most approachable FXD to date. While there is no official affiliation with this watch, the latest FXD was released alongside a display of the brand’s rich history in issued watches, right next to the original Sealab I at the Man In The Sea museum in Panama City Florida.  The setting is a fitting reminder of the remarkable Sealab program, and an era when watches like this were used as indispensable tools, the same as a compass or knife. This the spirit of the FXD and even the broader Pelagos collection as a whole, and as such we’ll be putting the new watch through its paces on a dive in the Gulf of Mexico, keep an eye out for the full report from the experience coming soon. The black FXD welcomes the same bit of red text at the bottom of the dial that we saw in the Pelagos 39 released last year. It provides the same benefit here, serving to reduce the visual weight of the 4 lines of text at the bottom of the dial. The matte black dial is joined by a matte black bezel insert (no sunburst pattern here), and the bezel is the biggest departure from the original FXD. Rather than counting down, and bi-directional (features done...

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Worn & Wound

Brew Sep 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Some of our Favorite Microbrands

In this edition of Inside the Collection, Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan are focusing on microbrands. Or small independents. Or micro-indies. This flavor of watch brand goes by many names, but the thing that binds them all together is a sense of independence and real personality in the design. These watches are the singular visions of the brand founders, and to have access to that kind of creativity at the price points of the watches on the table in this video, well, that’s pretty special.    Perhaps unsurprisingly, there’s some overlap in the microbrand watches Zach and Blake chose to talk about. Both selected watches made by Brew and Lorier, two Windup Watch Fair mainstays who have been part of the community for years. Zach’s Retromatic and Blake’s Metric are great examples of brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s design sensibility, with compact, easy to wear square cases and funky, just slightly off-kilter dial designs. The Gemini and Hydra, both from Lorier, are likewise great examples of the charming, vintage inspired vibes the NYC based brand is so skilled at cultivating.  Rounding out this selection of micros are Blake’s pair of Autodromo Group B “Night Stage” editions, and Zach’s anOrdain Model 1, which is a limited edition version made in collaboration with the Windup Watch Shop. Like all of the watches seen here, these are special not just because the watches are great, but because of the talented people behind them, who pour everything they have i...

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Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko s “Godzilla” anniversary piece Sep 14, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Night Driver, a Moody, Fully Lumed Interpretation of the Classic Monaco Aesthetic

I have a friend in the local watch collecting community – let’s call him “Eric,” because that’s his name – and in the ongoing group chat between us and a handful of (sometimes) like-minded watch enthusiasts, a concept has emerged that we like to refer to as the “Eric Watch.” Eric has a very particular taste. He likes big watches, lots of lume, and is almost always drawn to the unusual. His collection, if you grouped all the watches he’s over owned together in a lineup, would be a real Island of Misfit Toys scenario. Watches go in and out of his collection at a rapid clip (instead of saying “congrats” when he posts a new acquisition, we like to say “good luck with sale”) but at various times he’s owned at least four different quartz Speedmasters, the Mario Kart Carrera, a black coated Cartier Santos, and a whole bunch of Breitlings made from materials ranging from “Breitlight” to gold. His ultimate grail watch is Grand Seiko’s “Godzilla” anniversary piece. You get the idea.  When I saw the press release for the new Monaco Night Driver from TAG Heuer, I thought to myself, “This might be the ultimate Eric Watch,” and in fact wondered if it was designed by an artificial intelligence that had somehow downloaded his consciousness. First of all, it’s a Monaco. I’ve lost count of the number of Monaco pics he’s sent to the group chat over the years – let’s just stipulate that he’s a fan. Also, the titanium case is coated in bla...

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Time+Tide

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Sep 14, 2023

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver

TAG Heuer has been synonymous with motorsport for decades, and they’re back with an eye-popping new edition of their classic Monaco chronograph. The Monaco is one of the cornerstones of the brand’s legendary foundation, and has been since it burst into the spotlight way back in 1969, as one of the very first automatic chronographs … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Richard Mille have long made such Sep 14, 2023

IWC Explores New Materials with the Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63

IWC’s latest is an inspired by the legendary off-roader made by its longtime partner Mercedes-Benz, the G-Wagen. More specifically, the Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 is named after the luxury, high-performance G 63 made by the carmaker’s performance tuning subsidiary AMG. Available in two variants, the G 63 edition retains the traditional outline of the model, but brings along novel new materials, namely a hardened gold alloy known as Armor Gold and ceramic matrix composite (CMC), a carbon fibre composite containing silicon carbide ceramic for added hardness. The Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 in 18k Armor Gold Initial thoughts IWC rolls out a lot of Big Pilot limited editions, probably too many, but this is one of the more appealing recent editions. The basic features of the Big Pilot G 63 are appealing – novel materials, a functional design, and IWC’s seven-day movement. The textured dials and sub-seconds are both novel features for a Big Pilot. They set the new pair part from other models in the line, but don’t stray too far from the traditional Big Pilot look. More interesting are the case materials – hardened gold or silicon-infused carbon composite – which are both a first for IWC. Though brands like Hublot and Richard Mille have long made such materials a specialty, they are unusual for IWC. Notably, both versions have Super-Luminova matched with the case material, beige for the gold model and grey for CMC, which feels a bit forced. I would have preferred...

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Worn & Wound

Bell & Ross Refines Sep 13, 2023

Bell & Ross Refines the Case of their Iconic BR 03

Before I was really into watches as a collector or enthusiast, I can remember walking into a Tourneau store in a mall in the Boston suburbs and being drawn to the strange, square cased watches displayed prominently as I entered the space. I’m sure I was just killing time before a movie or meeting a friend, but somehow those watches, made by a brand I had no knowledge of, imprinted something on me. I don’t remember any of the other watches I encountered that day, or any other, at that same Tourneau. But the Bell & Ross BR 03 made an impression. It wasn’t even that I liked it – I just found them so unusual and distinctive. And for someone on the outside of the watch world looking in, these watches were an early point of fascination.  The BR 03, in my view, is one of the truly iconic modern watch designs for this very reason. It pulls in the curious window shopper in a way that a traditionally shaped watch can’t. Now, Bell & Ross is updating the BR 03 with a subtly reworked case. In these Bell & Ross supplied images, it’s honestly hard to see the changes (I’d really like to see one side by side with an older version of the watch), but based on the tale of the tape, it should make for an improved and more ergonomic wearing experience, which is no small feat for a watch that is known (and loved) for its inherent, charming, ungainliness. The big change is a full millimeter reduction in the case size, going from 42mm to 41mm. On a square watch, that’s going to ma...

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Worn & Wound

Sep 12, 2023

Apple Brings Updates to New Generation of Apple Watches Series 9, & Ultra 2

Apple held their annual September event today, introducing new iPhones and new Apple Watch models in the process. This year, Apple is leaning heavily into environmental consciousness across all of their new products, including new straps that utilize recycled materials, as we’ve seen with increasing recency in the watch world. In addition to new Series 9 watches, Apple also introduced a second generation of their Apple Watch Ultra, with the Ultra 2. Both utilize Apple’s new home cooked silicon, the S9 SiP, a more powerful chip, allowing for a slew of new on board features that are less reliant on your connectivity status, including the ability to recognize gestures. The watches retain largely the same design across the board, so the real story is the new silicon, and the 100% carbon neutral status of the product in many configurations.  The Apple Watch has established itself as the most popular watch in the world since it was first introduced 9 years ago, and while its form factor hasn’t substantially changed over the years, it’s become far more powerful with each generation, allowing it to blossom into its own product category for Apple. I suspect we’ll see the first big design update for its 10th anniversary next year, but until then the Series 9 and Ultra 2 will look to keep the trend moving forward. The Apple Watch Ultra was introduced just last year, a rugged take on the formula which won over those of us who prefer using the Apple Watch for specific scenar...

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Worn & Wound

Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read Sep 12, 2023

This New Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read an Altitude Higher than the World’s Tallest Peak

Citizen has introduced a new Altichron to the Promaster family of watches. This series has always struck me as kind of gleefully over the top, even more than many of the crazy dive watches we talk about in these pages frequently. The whole idea behind the “Promaster” branding is to show Citizen’s prominence in designing watches that can take on land and air in addition to sea, but sometimes we get caught up in the dive watch aspect of it all given the importance of watches in that niche to the culture of contemporary watch collecting. The Altichron is, effectively, a souped up field watch made with mountaineering in mind, and it has a number of features that should make athletes who spend their time at higher elevations quite happy. For the rest of us, there’s still a lot of cool tech to gawk at, which is a perfectly acceptable way to enjoy a watch like this in my book.  The key feature of the Altichron is its altitude sensor, which allows for measurements up to 32,800 feet above sea level (Mt. Everest, for the record, is a little over 29,000 feet above sea level). Also, just in case you’re the multidisciplinary sort, you’ll get an accurate reading up to 300 meters below sea level as well. The altitude meter is read via an inner dial for the first 900 meters above sea level, and then via a subdial at 9:00 for higher altitudes. The Altichron is also equipped with an electronic compass that shows your heading via a gauge around the dial’s perimeter. The layout...

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SJX Watches

Sep 12, 2023

Marco Lang Open Sources His Movement and Constructions

As a gifted and passionate watchmaker, Marco Lang is committed to preserving his legacy for future generations. This extraordinary commitment involves providing unrestricted access to all the construction data related to every component of his Zweigesicht-1 timepiece on his website. This open-source initiative aims to assist future watchmakers in servicing Marco’s watches for generations to come. The beginning of independence When a watchmaker, especially an independent one, makes the commitment to ensure that his creations will remain fully functional and cherished by generations to come, it truly demonstrates the depth of his devotion and altruism toward both his present and future clientele. Marco Lang embarked on his journey as an independent watchmaker when he founded his modest workshop in Dresden in 2003, in collaboration with Mirko Heyne and Lothar Zieger, which eventually became known as Lang & Heyne. In 2019, he once again chose the path of an independent watchmaker, this time working entirely on his own. He found a delicate balance between idealism and art, a topic he delves into in this article he penned for us during the year he decided to embark on this new chapter. Marco Lang in his workshop, located within his home. Photo – Marco Lang The subsequent year marked the introduction of his inaugural creation under the “Marco Lang” signature, the double-faced Zweigesicht-1, housing the remarkable calibre ml-01. The calibre ml-01 With all 18 pieces of the ...

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Worn & Wound

Tissot Unveils Sep 11, 2023

Tissot Unveils the New Heritage 1938 References, Inspired by the Timeless Design of the 1930s

Sometimes all you need is a simple, well-designed watch. For over 170 years, Tissot has been providing just that. Now, with their latest release, the Tissot Heritage 1938, we’re seeing the Swiss brand look to their archives to bring back a time-tested design that has never gone out of style. As the name implies, Tissot was inspired by the design language of the 1930’s for the Heritage 1938 collection. With minimal dials and vintage inspired colorways that blend seamlessly into the 39mm stainless steel case, Tissot celebrates its heritage while never falling into the trap of making these watches feel like a recycling of old ideas. Instead, what we get is a refresh of a design that, put simply, just works. Two options are available in the Tissot Heritage 1938 collection: the Tissot Heritage Small Second Auto COSC 1938 and the Tissot Heritage Gent Auto COSC 1938. The former is powered by a 2895-2 COSC movement, while the latter is powered by a 2824-2 COSC movement. Both promise reliable timekeeping with a power reserve exceeding 40 hours. As the name would suggest, the Small Second reference has a small silvered running seconds subdial at the 6 o’clock mark and a date at 3 o’clock against a dark gray dial. The two Gent references (one with a salmon dial, the other dark gray) lack both of these features, but nonetheless have their own charm to them, showcasing the versatility that comes with a minimally-designed watch that can stand on its own. Whether going with the G...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Sep 8, 2023

Flieger Watches: A Brief History and 14 Modern Fliegers from Entry-Lev

“Flieger” is the German word for “flier” - contrary to what you may have read elsewhere, it’s not the direct translation of “pilot” (that would actually be “pilot”) - and if you’re a traveler visiting Germany, it’s a helpful word to know, as it helps to understand other related terms: German airlines call their flights “flugs” and Germany calls its airports “flughafens.” Flieger is also the term that’s been widely adopted as shorthand for a specific style of pilot’s watch - one that traces its origins to World War II and which is still popular among an avid group of watch enthusiasts today. Flieger watches trace their origins to a type of timekeeper developed in the 1930s for German military aviators called the B-Uhr, short for Beobachtungs-Uhren, which translates to “observation watches.” B-Uhr watches, the first of which were property of the German government rather than the Luftwaffe pilots who wore them, adhered to strict specifications. Their cases were enormous for a wrist-borne watch at the time, at 55mm in diameter, and they accordingly housed movements that were originally made for pocket watches. These movements all incorporated the mission-critical hacking seconds function and were protected from magnetism by soft iron inner cages to ensure their functionality in an airplane cockpit. The dials were designed to be ultra-readable, with large white Arabic numerals on an expansive black background and flame-blued, luminou...

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Worn & Wound

Brew x Worn & Wound Sep 7, 2023

[VIDEO] How To Use The Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Limited Edition

Hello everyone. Just the other day, we had the distinct pleasure of launching a new limited edition collaboration, the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator. A trio of quirky and colorful watches, they were designed to be different from your ordinary watch. As indicated in the name, these are chrono regulators, or regulator chronographs, to be more precise. What that means is that they don’t tell time with the standard arrangement of hour and minute hands at the center of the dial. Rather, the hour is read on a sub-dial, and minutes at the center. On top of this, there is also a standard chronograph function. The post [VIDEO] How To Use The Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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SJX Watches

Tissot Goes Retro Sep 4, 2023

Tissot Goes Retro with the PRX Digital

Following the recent introduction of scaled-down automatic models, the Tissot PRX lineup takes a decidedly nostalgic turn with the PRX Digital. A slightly more refined take on the digital wristwatch, the new PRX captures the future as seen from the late 1980s with a streamlined LCD display and integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts  The PRX in all its flavours has proven popular thanks to a vintage-inspired design that caters perfectly to today’s taste for integrated bracelets. A retro-style quartz watch with an LCD screen, however, is unexpected but appealing in its thoughtful design that doesn’t try to do too much and is just right. For a mechanical-watch enthusiast, the PRX Digital is a diversion, but one that’s fun and affordable. On its face, the new PRX immediately evokes Casio’s lineup of digital watches on bracelets (namely the A171WEG-9AEF and A171WE-1AEF). The Japanese brand is clearly the market leader in affordable digital watches, but the PRX Digital is a step up in terms of branding and presentation, as opposed to Casio’s primarily utilitarian approach (though Casio’s upscale G-Shock models are another matter).  At US$375 for steel models and US$75 more for the gold-plated variants, the PRX Digital is pricier than its Casio counterparts. This premium is significant, but justified in part by the slightly more upscale feel of the PRX and of course the “Swiss made” provenance. However, it’s worth noting Casio trumps Tissot in terms of tech: t...

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Time+Tide

Bausele Galvin Sep 4, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Nullarbor Terrain is inspired by Australian nature

For as many watch enthusiasts as we have here, Australia is lacking somewhat when it comes to home-grown brands. Of course we have Bausele, Galvin, and the not-so-subtly-named Melbourne Watch Company, though none of these designs have much to offer in terms of Australian-inspired design traits. Nullarbor, this week’s feature on Micro Mondays, aims to … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Nullarbor Terrain is inspired by Australian nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 3, 2023

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar to its Predecessor, Everything is New

The classic design of the Akrivia RRCC II’s dial has roots in founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s vision of high-quality nineteenth-century pocket watch dials adorned with high-fire enamel and combined with a modern twist based on “sector” dials of the 1930s and '40s. But there's much more to this brand-new watch than that as Elizabeth Doerr explains.

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Worn & Wound

Sep 1, 2023

The Labor Day 2023 Sale at the Windup Watch Shop Has Kicked Off!

It’s always a bummer when we realize that summer is ending. The long days, endless BBQ, and warm midday walks are all slowly fading away. However, we have just the thing to help lift our fellow enthusiast spirits! The Labor Day Sale has just kicked off and we are super stoked about some of the items up for promotions this year. To kick things off, we’re having a huge sitewide sale that includes getting up to 15% off select straps, accessories, EDC, clocks, and of course watches, as well as some other incredible cool gifts with purchase items. The Labor Day Sale starts at 12:00AM EST 8/31/2023 and ends at 11:59PM EST on 9/04/2023. It’s always a bummer when we realize that summer is ending. The long days, endless BBQ, and warm midday walks are all slowly fading away. However, we have just the thing to help lift our fellow enthusiast spirits! The Labor Day Sale has just kicked off and we are super stoked about some of the items up for promotions this year. To kick things off, we’re having a huge sitewide sale that includes getting up to 15% off select straps, accessories, EDC, clocks, and of course watches, as well as some other incredible cool gifts with purchase items. The Labor Day Sale starts at 12:00AM EST 8/31/2023 and ends at 11:59PM EST on 9/04/2023. The post The Labor Day 2023 Sale at the Windup Watch Shop Has Kicked Off! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound

Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter Aug 31, 2023

The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is one of the Strangest Releases of the Year

Geneva Watch Days, like any big trade event in the watch industry, means a cluster of brands with new releases, all vying for the attention of the public, and of watch media. The “novelties” that are unveiled during these things are often just that, in the sense that these new releases are perhaps not representative of what a brand will usually produce. They are meant to grab headlines, start conversations, and garner immediate reactions. They’re novel. This year, Doxa showed us that they know how to play the game, with a new watch that quickly became a hot topic all over Watch Internet: the SUB 300β Sharkhunter. What we have here is a SUB 300 in a black ceramic case with 18K gold accents on the bezel and crown. No Doxa has ever expressed this particular kind of understated nightlife vibe ever before, for better or worse. Doxa seems to be leaning into it – their press copy says this watch was built to defy dress codes. Now, I’m an American, an elder millennial, and I feel like I’ve been defying dress codes for as long as I’ve been a functioning adult (I’ve been told we killed Business Casual – you’re welcome). But for some, subverting a dress code might be a serious transgression, and for them, Doxa has a watch made just for you.  The strange thing about the SUB 300β Sharkhunter, beyond the fact that this is a Doxa with solid gold components, a rare occurrence but not unheard of, is the visual impression of the dial. This watch, believe it or not, ha...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Aug 31, 2023

Watch Clasps 101: A Guide to the Various Types of Closures

As long as watches have been worn on the wrist (click here if you’re curious about how long that’s actually been), watchmakers have needed to figure out how to keep their straps, and eventually bracelets, securely fastened. Nowadays, with a plethora of strap and bracelet options available to watch wearers, there are also several styles of these closures, many of which have become brand signatures in their own right. From tang buckles to butterflies to trifolds, we cover the gamut here, listing pros and cons for each. Pin/Tang/Ardillon Buckle The simplest type of closure, and one used only on straps, is a pin buckle, aka a tang or ardillon buckle (“ardillon” is a French word that translates to “tongue”). If you’ve ever worn a belt, you’re familiar with the design, though perhaps not the terminology. One end of the strap - which can be either a two-piece, like most leather and rubber straps, or a one-piece, like a cloth or nylon NATO strap - has a series of perforations called adjustment holes along part of its length. The other end terminates in a simple device with a spring bar attached to a U-shaped bracket and a central piece called a mandel (the “pin” or “tongue”). The bracket slides over the other end of the strap while the mandel slips through one of the adjustment holes, and into a notch on the bracket, to fit the strap to the wearer’s wrist and secure it against coming loose. Pros: It’s easy to use and generally comfortable, as there...

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Worn & Wound

Shinola Aug 31, 2023

[VIDEO] Watch Shinola’s Latest Video on Timeless American Design

Join us in celebrating a major milestone in design and American manufacturing-10 years of Shinola Detroit. To commemorate this landmark year, Shinola has created a new video that presents the company and its employees as a team that can carve a distinct pathway forward with their own sense of, as they say, “timeless American design.” This anthemic video gives an insider glimpse of their watchmakers assembling timepieces, soaring views of the Detroit headquarters, and shares perspective on the past decade as well as Shinola’s aims for the future. Click here to experience Timeless American Design by Shinola.  Don’t forget to check out a specially curated selection of Shinola’s watches and fine goods at Windup Watch Fair NYC on October 20-22 at The Altman Building, located at 135 W 18th St, New York, NY. The post [VIDEO] Watch Shinola’s Latest Video on Timeless American Design appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe but there Aug 29, 2023

Clockmaker Jacob Curtis Debuts a Hand-Made Regulator

American clockmaker Jacob Curtis recently completed Regulator Clock No. 2, a precision wall clock that is eminently traditional in style, make, and materials. Based in Staunton, Virginia, the 33-year-old graduated from the Lititz Watch Technicum in 2017 and now runs his own watch and clock repair workshop. Built as a commission from a client, Regulator Clock No. 2 is the first of a pair of clocks, with the second of the pair, No. 3, currently a work in progress. The clocks are actually descended from the school clock Mr Curtis completed during watchmaking school (pictured above), but the basis of his creations lies further back in history. The dial of the recently-finished No. 2 Mr Curtis took inspiration from the precision regulator clocks made in Germany during the late 19th- and early 20th centuries by firms like Strasser & Rohde and Riefler. Considered amongst the finest clocks of the genre, these regulator clocks were refined by fuss-free aesthetics and extremely high quality mechanics, characteristics that Mr Curtis sought to recreate with his own clocks. Initial thoughts Clocks don’t have the same popular appeal as watches, so clockmaking remains a niche subject, despite the faddish popularity of watches. Established brands ranging from Chanel to Patek Philippe, but there the brand arguably matters as much as the timepiece. On the other hand, independent clockmakers are less known but some do impressively fine work. Although I only have photos to go on, Mr Curtis...

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Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Aug 25, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Watches

When Tudor began teasing a new release over the summer, paired with a countdown clock planted in the wake of a passing boat, speculation quickly ended up in the usual places. A new steel BB58? A GMT Pelagos? Perhaps a regatta timer chronograph? As usual, these guesses ended up off the mark, with Tudor instead revealing a new pair of FXD watches made in conjunction with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. Along with them, a look at some wholly new features that will undoubtedly spur more predictions about what’s to come. After reviewing the FXD upon its launch in 2021, I’ve grown quite fond of the platform, as I often profess on the Worn & Wound podcast, but how well does it hold up in a different trim? The FXD is a watch that works better in person and on the wrist than it does on paper. It’s large and relatively flat stature that touts a lug to lug measurement north of 50mm thanks to a fixed lug design meaning only passthrough straps can be used. But it’s more than all that on the wrist. It wears slim and the widest bit of the lug is under a strap, so while it’s not as easy going as something like the Pelagos 39, it’s perfectly easy to get along with overall. On top of that, it’s got one of the most low-key interesting personalities of any of the mainline dive watches out there. Additionally, after having completed my open water dive certification with the FXD on my wrist every step of the way, I can attest to its qualities under the surface, as well (more on ...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Louis Erard Debuts Aug 25, 2023

Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration

Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style.  The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...

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Timex Pushes Boundaries Aug 24, 2023

Timex Pushes Boundaries with Giorgio Galli S2

Timex takes their relationship with Giorgio Galli a step further with a new iteration of the series called, naturally, the GGS2. The new watch retains much of the drama of the S1 (which our Ed Jelley reviewed here), but ramps up the minimal nature of the design language with a near sterile black dial set within one of the most unique cases you’re likely to find under $1,000. As with all of the Timex Giorgio Galli watches, there’s plenty to appreciate in the small details, and with even fewer components brought to the table here, those details matter all the more. The S2 is chic on the exterior, and this time, gains a bit of Swiss cache on the inside.  The S2 sets the stage for a new generation of Giorgio Galli watches from Timex, revealed in its most elemental form here that is easy to imagine spawning additional variations. The all black dial set under a sapphire crystal is framed by a single applied ring that hosts a notch for each hour of the day. It’s a stark scene but everything that’s there makes a big impact. The structure of that ring is subtle, but it’s mirrored in the hand-set in both design and tone. Only the word Timex appears at the top of the dial, while the Giorgio Galli and S2 Automatic labels are relegated to the bottom of that ring ring structure. While the dial has certainly evolved, the case retains its signature injection-molded skeleton execution with titanium inserts for the movement and caseback. It’s a bit exotic feeling and sets this ...

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Farer Launches Aug 24, 2023

Farer Launches the New Tonneau Collection, with Colors Inspired by European Cities

British brand Farer’s latest collection is an ode to form and aesthetics. Called the Tonneau Collection, the three watches each show that style doesn’t have to lack substance; but can, in fact, be a jumping-off point for great design and a reliable watch. As the name denotes, each watch within this collection has a barrel-shaped, rounded rectangle case, mixing clean lines and smooth curves all in one. At just 35mm, it’s a watch that balances comfort on the wrist while still having a covetable presence when worn, and this is due in part to the particular color combinations that Farer used for the collection. Each of the three color options embody the spirit and energy of a particular city: Milan, London, and Paris. Milan’s vibrant emerald fumé dial is a callback to green-glazed ceramics that traversed the ancient world and still has a timeless sophistication – just like Milan. The emerald green is paired with polished silver batons, a stainless steel case, and a rich brown St Venere leather strap to balance the urbanity of the Northern Italian city. London is a nod to the Mod era of the 1970’s, with Farer being inspired by two-handed watches of this time period. With clean lines and a ridged pattern around the face, one can appreciate the geometry that goes into a well-designed timepiece. The dominant colors (or should I say colours) of this watch are blue, white, and red, each perfectly in balance to not compete but complement one another. The London model is ...

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Seiko Land Tortoise Tool watches Aug 22, 2023

Out of Office: The Wandering Bezel of the Seiko Land Tortoise

Tool watches are, as the name suggests, utilitarian by design. When I bought an SRPG13, the green Seiko Land Tortoise with a compass bezel, I thought I was purchasing yet another tool watch with practical non-timekeeping functionality. After an overnight family backpacking trip, I’m not convinced my field watch is the useful tool I tried to force it to be. The Land Tortoise is a tool watch- in the sense that it’s technically capable of tasks beyond displaying the time. True North can be found with any analog watch by pointing the hour hand at the sun, bisecting the angle between the hour hand and the sun to find South, and then locating the opposite point to identify North. A compass bezel is an enhancement that allows the wearer to mark North after finding it. This summer our family of four is section hiking the entire Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail; A 50 mile peak to peak path through New Hampshire’s backcountry. What better place to put this tool to the test than on the first section of the trip? The day before our first overnight section, as I organized gear, sprawling out sleeping pads, a tent, trekking poles and various knick-knacks across our living room floor, I made sure to put on the SRPG13. I pictured standing on a mountain top, getting the kids set up with a celebratory lunch, lining up the hour hand, and then bisecting with ease. With a real compass in my pack, I was excited to check my accuracy.  Two miles away and 2000 feet above the parking lot whe...

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Aug 22, 2023

Back To School With The Windup Watch Shop

Yes, it’s that time again. When the summer slowly fades into fall and you’re desperately trying to regulate your sleep into somewhat of a “normal” schedule. “Back to School” is not all bad though. It’s an excellent opportunity to experience independence, learn a little something, and further yourself or your children as individuals. We wouldn’t be here talking about it if we didn’t think it was also an excellent opportunity to gear up with some new clocks, watches, and EDC accessories that’ll make your transition back to school a bit easier (and more fun) for you and your family. Let’s check our some of our favorite pieces of kit for getting back to school. Yes, it’s that time again. When the summer slowly fades into fall and you’re desperately trying to regulate your sleep into somewhat of a “normal” schedule. “Back to School” is not all bad though. It’s an excellent opportunity to experience independence, learn a little something, and further yourself or your children as individuals. We wouldn’t be here talking about it if we didn’t think it was also an excellent opportunity to gear up with some new clocks, watches, and EDC accessories that’ll make your transition back to school a bit easier (and more fun) for you and your family. Let’s check our some of our favorite pieces of kit for getting back to school. The post Back To School With The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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