Hodinkee
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa By Bamford
Iconic racing heritage meets Japanese streetwear for one bold watch.
Results for Master Chronometer (METAS)
2,057 articles · 371 videos found · page 76 of 81
Hodinkee
Time+Tide
Three cool things about the Hublot Square Bang Ceramic and Sapphire
Square watches are often associated with elegance, but the Hublot Square Bang flips the script, incorporating Hublot's mastery of materialsThe post Three cool things about the Hublot Square Bang Ceramic and Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Pictures of the Petermann-Bédat X Auffret Paris Only Watch
Earlier images of the Petermann-Bédat X Theo Auffret Only Watch Chronomètre d'Observatoire were sletcjes, here are the photographs of the actual watch.
Time+Tide
Could this obscure Submarine have been the first waterproof wristwatch?
Despite being a multi-billion dollar industry with hundreds of years of development, there don’t seem to be that many people dedicating their time to chronicling watch history. You have the rare enthusiast and some museum curators, but overall the amount of brands clamouring their achievements without much accuracy significantly muddies the water. As a technology … ContinuedThe post Could this obscure Submarine have been the first waterproof wristwatch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari: New World Record Ultra-Thin – Reprise
The Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari is a stunning feat for two main reasons: it is the thinnest mechanical watch in the world and it meets some extreme requirements for shock and water resistance all while being only 1.75 mm in height. Here Joshua Munchow takes a deep dive.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R
Because it has a strongly defined identity and direction, Patek Philippe rarely surprises. The limited editions created for the recent Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, for instance, were interesting and occasionally exceptionally complicated but predictable. However, Patek Philippe did surprise, albeit subtly, at Watches & Wonders earlier this year with the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. Though the ref. 5224R is typical Patek Philippe in every aspect, from the slim case to the vintage-meets-modern design, it is distinctly different from the brand’s other offerings in both look and feel. Besides the 24-hour dial, a first for the brand in the modern day, the 42 mm case is also oversized by Patek Philippe standards. Despite being novel amongst current Patek Philippe offerings, the ref. 5224R is rooted in the brand’s history, being almost a direct descendent of the 24-hour-dial Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R was instantly appealing when I saw it at Watches & Wonders. It is a large watch, but still elegant. And despite being a relatively simple watch – it’s essentially a two-time zone watch – the ref. 5224R has several interesting features both in terms of design and mechanics. The most obvious is the 24-hour dial. At a glance, it’s a peculiar feature for a modern Patek Philippe wristwatch, but it looks good and actually makes sense. Though it takes some getting used to when readin...
SJX Watches
Recommended: Watchbox Interviews Indie Watchmaking Aficionado Mike “Shani”
A prominent figure thanks to his Instagram account documenting his impressive collection of independent watchmaking, Mike “Shani” Shanlikian is an American collector who watches that are widely regarded as the most important in the genre, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain. Mr Shanlikian was recently interviewed by George Mayer, the head of sales at pre-owned watch retailer Watchbox. Himself a watch aficionado (and sporting an F.P. Journe Octa Perpetuelle with matching bracelet), Mr Mayer quizzed Mr Shanlikian on his collection and delved into his motivations for collecting independent watchmaking in the 23-minute video interview. An F.P. Journe tourbillon duo. Image – Mike Shanlikian The Akrivia AK-06 and RRCC I. Image – Mike Shanlikian A few watches from the collection. Image – Mike Shanlikian Watchmaking is a fusion of science and art, according to Mr Shanlikian, who notes in the increasing interest in independent watchmaking was driven by F.P. Journe and comparable brands that rely on traditional methods to create watches. He showcases some favourites from his collection in the video, including the “1 in 30” Chronometer by American watchmaker Keaton Myrick. But the most significant watches are documented in the video are the George Daniels Millennium and Dufour Simplicity, matched by their contemporary counterparts, the Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia AK-06 and Gre...
SJX Watches
Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna
Accomplished but relatively low key, Andreas Strehler is launching a new brand known simply as Strehler, which aims to reach a wider audience with more accessible prices. Mr. Strehler’s stated aim of the Sirna is to offer collectors a simple daily wearer that embodies the technical mastery he has become known for. The brand’s opening act is the Sirna, named after the town of Sirnach in northeastern Switzerland where the manufacture is based. Strehler marks a departure from Mr. Strehler’s previous work in terms of aesthetics. While his earlier (and pricier) creations emphasised his distinctive papillon, or “butterfly”, movement architecture and resulting cushion-shaped case, the Sirna is more traditional in form. It is a strong debut for the new brand and a sign of good things to come. Initial thoughts I’ve always admired Mr Strehler’s watches from an intellectual standpoint, but his cushion-cased designs have never resonated with me on an aesthetic level. Naturally, I am thrilled to see Mr. Strehler’s work arrive in a more traditionally-styled package. The Sirna appears to exudes quality – unsurprising given Mr Strehler’s reputation for good work. It’s enough of a reputation that other independent watchmakers turn to him for components and movements (more on that below). Even obscure details like the engravings on the case back look to be satisfyingly crisp and precise. And the patterned titanium dial is the star, though deceptively simple in style, i...
Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces New References in their Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Collection, Including One in Titanium
Omega began teasing a new watch on their social media channels in the last few days, and while it was immediately pretty clear we’d be getting a new Worldtimer of some sort, the finer details were very much left a mystery. The existing Worldtimer has become a bit of a cult favorite since its release. It has a truly useful complication, and a dial that is undeniably stunning when you see it in person. The representation of earth as viewed from above the North Pole is a worldtimer trope, and there are a lot of ways to execute it, but few brands give you the detail that Omega can. That said, the watch has always been a little on the large side, and a new colorway is always welcome. Speculation ensued that a smaller version of the Worldtimer might be hitting boutiques, but what we got instead is a material change, along with a hard lean into green, which might no longer be the color of the moment, but seems to suit this particular watch just fine. What we have in this release is actually a trio of new watches: two references in stainless steel (one on a bracelet, the other a strap), and a completely new version of the watch in titanium. Let’s tackle the steel watches first. These follow the same 43mm format as the existing Worldtimer (the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer, to be more precise), but substitute the familiar blue dial for one in a PVD coated green. The dials here have a light sun-brushed finish, and dial accents (hands and hour markers) are in Moonshine Gold. ...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong
Phillips kicks off its spring sale season in Hong Kong with the first watch auction to take place at its recently inaugurated regional headquarters in the West Kowloon Cultural District. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI is a 248-lot sale with a strong representation of contemporary independent watchmaking, including the cover lot, a Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain I in pink gold – the first example of this coveted watch to emerge at auction. Amongst the other offerings going on the block are works from prominent names like Kari Voutilainen and F.P. Journe. The sale includes under appreciated gems such as a Parmigiani Toric Chronograph from the early 2000s and a unique Atelier de Chronométrie featuring a gilt dial. And there’s also a unique Richard Mille that was once owned by a Brazilian footballer Bobby Firmino. The auction takes place on May 24 (lots 801-925) and May 25 (lots 926-1048). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed here. The cover lot of the sale Lot 832: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCC I) One of the top lots – maybe even the top lot – of the sale is the first example of the Chronomètre Contemporain by Rexhep Rexhepi. As we detailed in our review of the prototype, the RRCC I is a gentleman’s wristwatch in the mould of mid-20th century Swiss chronometers. With its distinct arched lugs and enamel dial, the RRCCI is instantly recognisable despite its classical styling. Notably, the enamel dial is made of tw...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Black Dial TAG Heuer Carrera 39mm 'Glassbox'
Vintage meets modern in a complete refresh of the Carrera line.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R
Adding to its diverse line-up of travel watches, Patek Philippe has just taken the wraps off the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. A bold design, the ref. 5224R is Patek Philippe’s most novel travel watch to date. It is notable for having a 24-hour display inspired by the Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches made for Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early twentieth century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R is instantly striking thanks to the high contrast between the dial colour and rose gold case, busy dial design, and large, thin case. Though it is in essence a three-hander with an extra second time zone hand, it is far more interesting, even intimidating due to the 44 applied indices that give the dial something of an instrument-like appearance. The 24-hour display elevates the quirkiness of the design, which arguably strengthens the overall aesthetic. Admittedly, this comes at a cost of legibility – it is not the most intuitive watch to read. It takes a while to get used to, so reliability will be an issue if one is rotating between different watches in his or her collection. More surprising is the case size, which at 42 mm is massive for Patek Philippe. It is also unusual given the traditional case design, although the large case emphasises the slimness of the case. The large size is likely intentional to provide space for the applied numerals, and is perhaps rooted in the large size of the Gondolo pocket watches. Still, one wonders if ...
Worn & Wound
Phillips to Auction a Patek Philippe Owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of China
Last week, news of the latest marquee lot to go under the hammer via Phillips broke across watch media. The phrase “historically significant” is often used to describe high profile vintage watches that go up for auction, but very few actually feel truly historic. I would argue that this particular Patek Philippe, a watch that once belonged to Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, meets just about any definition for historically significant that you can come up with. Not only did it belong to a figure from our relatively recent history that marked a profound change in a nation’s history, but in terms of vintage Patek, this complicated Calatrava is worth studying even outside the scope of its significant owner. If you’re not familiar with Puyi’s story, a brief introduction or refresher is certainly in order to properly contextualize the watch. Aisin-Gioro Puyi became the Emperor of China at the age of 2, abdicated his throne at 7, and was held as a political prisoner by the Soviets following World War II. Puyi led an uncommon and complex life through a period of great political upheaval, but it’s notable that despite the title of Emperor that was thrust upon him as a boy, he never held significant power as a world leader. In his brief stint as the final Emperor of the Qing Dynasty he was essentially a figurehead, and later served as the puppet leader of Manchukuo for the Japanese following their invasion of Manchuria in 1932. Puyi is seen by s...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: I Thought I Knew The Lange Zeitwerk But I Was So, So Wrong
How did a watch I thought I'd never love become a personal measuring stick for past-meets-future watchmaking?
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick
Some extinct brands that get revived for the modern mechanical boom are often raised in mystery, bought out by private companies who heap glory on their adopted heritage to distract from the lack of modern substance. Fears is the direct opposite of that, not only being reincarnated by a member of the original family but … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Surprisingly Light TAG Heuer Aquaracer 200 Solargraph
Where doomsday prepper meets Dimes Square hypebeast.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”
The world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has in recent years revealed steadily growing ambitions in haute horlogerie, especially after its acquisition of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFDT). To celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of its namesake founder, the brand created the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”. Conceived by LFDT, the Tambour “200 Years” is a one-of-a-kind timepiece that demonstrates its watchmaking division’s mastery of fine watchmaking as well as its appreciation of artisanal craftsmanship: the movement combines both a minute repeater and automaton, while the dial is enamel miniature painting by none other than Anita Porchet. Initial thoughts Some two years in the making, the Tambour “200 Years ” exemplifies Louis Vuitton’s development as a maker of haute horlogerie. The movement is impressively complicated, while the dial is nuanced and artisanal. Granted, the watch is huge at almost 48 mm, so it’s far from subtle, but that reflects the house style of Louis Vuitton. The dial in particular reveals the thought that went into its conception and execution, with the cosmos represented by shaded, translucent blue enamel that is nearly ethereal and complemented by automaton elements sculpted in white gold. The impressionistic depiction of the night sky and planets brings to mind Stanley Kubrick’s sci-fi classic 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Tambour “200 Years” is actually the se...
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Defy Watch Guide
Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642. The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: A Single-Owner Collection of F.P. Journe at Phillips
Le Concours de Complexité is probably the smallest watch auction ever conducted by Phillips. Taking place online from January 13-20, the sale comprises just 11 watches. But all 11 are F.P. Journe watches, including important models like a Sonnerie Souveraine, Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium, and Centigraphe Anniversaire. So while the quantity is modest, the quality and value are high. And the watches all come with impeccable provenance. The former owner is a prominent businessman from Southeast Asia who is active real estate development. He purchased most of them brand new and has clearly kept them in immaculate condition. Le Concours de Complexité begins on January 13 and will run until January 20. Bidding and the catalogue can be accessed on Phillips.com. Below we round up a trio of highlights from the sale. The Sonnerie Souveraine Lot 8001 – Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium Synonymous with the independent watchmaker, the Resonance is correctly regarded as one of the most ingenious creations in contemporary watchmaking. Francois-Paul Journe was the first to implement the concept in a wristwatch, having been inspired by 18th century clocks operating on the principle of resonance. This example is one of the Ruthenium series that was launched in 2001. The name comes from the fact that the dial and brass movement bridges are plated in ruthenium, giving them a dark grey finish. Notably, the Ruthenium editions are the last F.P. Journe models to utilise brass m...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Inside the Omega Speedmaster ’57’s sandwich dial
Sandwich dials have always commanded a sense of mystery and luxury, with very few brands dipping their toes into the genre despite its popularity. Omega surprised many with its release of a second generation for the Omega Speedmaster ’57 in 2022, now featuring a sandwich dial construction against any semblance of vintage accuracy. Whether or … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Inside the Omega Speedmaster ’57’s sandwich dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Dunes of Mars: The Red Planet on your Wrist
Mars is a planet with a lot of mystery, its red sand surface occupying the dreams of those who ache to set foot on its surface. For watch enthusiasts who want to make waiting until that happens a bit more bearable, Christiaan van der Klaauw introduces the Planetarium Dunes of Mars.
SJX Watches
Kudoke Makes a Hollywood Debut in ‘Last Looks’
Seeing an Omega Seamaster in the latest James Bond is hardly a surprise. Independent watchmakers, however, rarely get the same Hollywood opportunities that deep-pocketed brands like Omega do. But tiny German watchmaker Kudoke managed to make it to the big screen without a well-funded marketing campaign. This story starts with American novelist Howard Michael Gould, who released Last Looks in 2018. A mystery novel centred on a disgraced detective, Last Looks was on its way to the silver screen shortly after publication with Charlie Hunnam and Mel Gibson in starring roles. Dominic Monaghan’s character wearing the Kudoke Real Skeleton A crucial Kudoke skeleton While the filming Last Looks, the producers reached out to the husband-and-wife team behind Kudoke, Ev and Stefan, for a watch to be worn in a movie without providing much details. According to Ev, the email from the producers initially seemed to be a random piece of spam. After all, most watches with prominent placements in films are the result of hefty advertising budgets. But then Kudoke received another email with the same request from another sender. This piqued their interest but left Ev and Stefan wondering why any producer would choose a watch most of the audience would never recognise? Soon enough, the Kudokes were sent excerpts of the script. To their surprise, the watch was not merely an accessory, but it was a central part of the plot, a crucial clue for solving the mystery in fact. The Kudokes natural...
Revolution
Talking Grail Watch 2 at Franck Muller Watchland Part 2
On his visit to Franck Muller Watchland, Wei meets with Head of Design, Jean-Loup Glénat to discuss the finer design details of Grail Watch 2. We are immensely proud to have partnered with Franck Muller to revive these iconic chronographs to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the brand!
SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Custom Regulation with the Sensoriel
De Bethune’s latest invention aims to customise the regulation of a mechanical watch to suit the individual owner. Dubbed the Sensoriel Chronometry Project, it takes the form of a electronic wrist instrument that measures the wearer’s activities and environmental conditions over a two week period – gathering two million data points per hour according to the brand. With this voluminous quantity of data, De Bethune will then regulate a DB28GS Grand Bleu sports watch specifically for the particular owner, optimising timekeeping based on the wearer’s activities. [Updated to include response from Denis Flageollet.] Initial thoughts On paper the Sensoriel is interesting and impressive, but on reflection it raises several questions. For one, the two million data points recorded per hour – for a two-week period – results in an extraordinary amount of information on the wearer’s activities. Can any mechanical watch be regulated to a fine enough resolution that makes even a fraction of that data useful? My knowledge of watchmaking is certainly inexpert but I am sceptical. Mr Flageollet points out De Bethune utilises an algorithm to process the data and sieve out the “elements specific to the wearer, in a way to bring out a specific chronometric DNA for each wearer”, allowing the watch to be regulated according to a smaller number of data points. The second salient point is more philosophical. Historically the pursuit of chronometry meant good timekeeping regardless...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger
A company had to muster real tenacity to make it through the Quartz Crisis, but Delma managed to thrive instead of survive during those tough years, continuing to honour the art of traditional mechanical watchmaking. Despite this, they’re not talked about as much as they perhaps deserve to be, and so we’ve been taking a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Movado Heritage
The Heritage of Movado: Technical Mastery and Timeless Design
SJX Watches
Making a Mark: Understanding the 1931 Alphabet Typeface by Jaeger Le-Coultre
Watchmakers have long embarked on collaborations with artists, from Geneva jeweller Gilbert Albert and his Brâncuşi-inspired designs for Patek Philippe to the Zen creations by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando for Bulgari. Such collaborations are amongst the best ways for a watch brand to broaden its appeal. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has been exploring such relationships with “Made of Makers”, an initiative made up of collaborations with varied designers and artisans from other disciplines, including mixologist Matthias Giroud and the Michelin-starred pastry chef Nina Métayer. Its latest partnership is with Spanish typographer and illustrator Alex Trochut, who has penned a font specifically for the brand, the 1931 Alphabet. Alex Trochut Initial thoughts On its face, this might sound like the typical artistic collaboration embarked upon by a watchmaker. But this has a subtle twist in engaging with watch enthusiasts as it’s all about personalisation of the watch. The 1931 Alphabet can transform a stock Reverso into something unique and something that would not be out of place Jay Gatsby’s wrist. It’s a prime example of typography as a decorative art in watchmaking. The attention to detail in the font design is evident in the kerning of the letters, which includes the use of negative space to create balance. The 1931 Alphabet Given this typeface’s strikingly bold design, it is a perfect pair for the Reverso. Since its introduction in 1931, the model has evolve...
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: George Clooney Tries To Stop His Daughter's Wedding Wearing An Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra In 'Ticket To Paradise'
And Julia Roberts rocks a gold mystery piece in our watch-related movie of the week.
Time+Tide
Lee Pace, the elven-king-turned-murder-suspect, needs watches
Galactic emperor, elven king or supervillain – Lee Pace refuses to be typecast, lending his chiselled chin to a variety of larger-than-life characters. Nominated for an Emmy for his work in Pushing Daisies and hailed for standout performances in Soldier’s Girl and Lincoln, his newest silver-screen foray sees him play a suspect in the slasher-murder-mystery ordeal that is Bodies Bodies … ContinuedThe post Lee Pace, the elven-king-turned-murder-suspect, needs watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy
The changing resale values of Seiko watches is a mystery to most people, with some models soaring and diving within the space of a year. One thing that does always drive up prices, however, is once a model gets discontinued, as I recently discovered with my own $200 Seiko Sapphire. It doesn’t even matter if … ContinuedThe post 5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.