Time+Tide
TAG Heuer redesigns the Carrera Chronograph Sport, and it’s more refined than ever
TAG Heuer redesigns the Carrera Chronograph Sport with a refined 42mm case across five references with all new dial colours.
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Time+Tide
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Review: A Bigger, Sportier Carrera
TAG Heuer has just unveiled the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, staying true to the model’s DNA, but in a more beefed-up fashion! What We Love The classic Carrera case shape is still immediately recognisable The move to 42mm makes the Carrera Sport much more wearable than the previous generation The green dial and silver dial variants look particularly good in person What We Don’t At 42mm, it is still a reasonably substantial watch The more robust design won’t have the same versatility as the 39mm Carrera Glass Box The blue dial and black dial models are not as eye-catching Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Carrera has never really needed an introduction. It has been one of the defining chronographs in the TAG Heuer collection since Jack Heuer introduced it in 1963, and over the years I’ve had the chance to wear and review plenty of different versions. Now, with the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, (just in time for the Madrid Grand Prix, as TAG Heuer is the race sponsor, I might add), TAG Heuer has taken the familiar Carrera formula and given it a little more presence, a sportier feel and, importantly, some better proportions. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport models As you may imagine, this is not my first time wearing a TAG Heuer Carrera. I’ve reviewed plenty of Carreras over the years, from the revamped Glass Box models introduced in 2023 through to the Rose Gold Carrera ...
Fratello
Chic Deep Down: Hands-On With Two Bicolor Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Models
If you’re looking to express your chic side but don’t want to give up your sportiness, these dive watches might be for you. The two-tone Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date, featuring gold-colored elements, comes in three dial colors — black, blue, and green. The black and green versions made it to Fratello HQ. I […] Visit Chic Deep Down: Hands-On With Two Bicolor Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Models to read the full article.
Time+Tide
FounderFest: The Awake Sơn Mài - Frosted Leaf “Ultraviolet” is a lovesong in lacquer
Awake and Time+Tide join forces to create quite possibly the most captivating dial in the FounderFest collection
Fratello
Why A Seiko 5 Is The Perfect Holiday Watch
The plan was simple: load the Subaru Forester, fold out the rooftop tent, and disappear for two nights at Frazer Beach, a small campground tucked inside Munmorah State Conservation Area on the New South Wales Central Coast, north of Sydney. The watch decision took considerably less thought than the packing list. A black-dial Seiko 5 […] Visit Why A Seiko 5 Is The Perfect Holiday Watch to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Review: The Past Meets The Future For Its 50th Anniversary
We take the new TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph hands-on to see how it brings 50 years of racing heritage into the modern era. What We Love Forged carbon makes the watch lightweight Heritage inspired dial design Flyback calibre delivers exceptional performance What We Don’t 50.85mm lug-to-lug can be challenging for smaller wrists with 15.22mm thickness, it remains noticeably substantial Chronograph pushers miss the forged carbon treatment Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8.7/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 TAG Heuer has introduced the latest chapter in the Monza story just in time for Formula 1’s return to the legendary Italian circuit. This time, however, the Monza is returning to its roots. Created to celebrate the collection’s 50th anniversary, the new Monza Flyback Chronograph brings back the black, white and red identity that made the original 1976 model such an iconic design. It also combines contemporary elements from the 2023 Monza edition, which, in many ways, makes this new Monza a meeting of the timepiece’s past and future. The story of the TAG Heuer Monza first begins in 1971, when Heuer established a significant partnership with the Formula 1 racing team Scuderia Ferrari. This momentous relationship extended well beyond a conventional sponsorship between a watch brand and a racing team, as Heuer supplied Ferrari with its sophisticated Centigraph electronic timing system. This electronic timing system allowed...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Petite Seconde Heure Dorée
Schwarz Etienne’s 1902 collection has evolved through a broad range of interpretations, including the Petite Seconde, Power Reserve and GMT models, all united by the Manufacture’s focus on in-house movement development and production in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The collection is a platform for trying out different functions and dial configurations while retaining its distinctive contemporary design […]
Deployant
Live from GWD26: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt | Hands-on Impressions
I had Michel Navas, one of the principals of La Fabrique du Temps to introduce the Rose Gold Gilt dial installed on the Daniel Roth Extra Plat.
Deployant
Live from GWD26: Gérald Genta Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian | Hands-on Impressions
Gérald Genta releases a new version of their Minute Repeater with a magnificent Golden Obsidian dial. Here is our first impressions of handling the watch.
Time+Tide
Gérald Genta pairs golden obsidian with yellow gold for its latest Geneva Minute Repeater
Discover the Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian, with a 40mm yellow gold case, volcanic stone dial and 80-hour power reserve.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new, more compact A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Limited Editions
A Lange & Söhne’s 1815 collection honours the year of Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s birth with a lineup of traditional watches with design details inspired by Lange’s historic pocket watches. The seemingly straightforward 1815 Up/Down, with its power reserve indicator on the dial, has a fascinating historical background and was inspired by patent no. 9349 granted […]
SJX Watches
A Comeback for the Lange 1815 Up/Down
A. Lange & Söhne’s mid-sized 1815 Up/Down is reincarnated as a dark blue panda 300-piece limited edition in a slender, 37.5 mm case. More faithful than usual to the Glashütte watchmaking tradition, inside and out, the 1815 Up/Down has a lot to offer for an “entry-level” Lange, if ever there was such a thing. Initial Thoughts The dial’s layout is inspired by the most common location for a up/down indicator on a pocket watch, at 12 o’clock, while the running seconds sits in a small sundial at six o’clock. But when a hunter-type movement is packaged into an open face case the up/down indicator moves to nine o’clock and the seconds to three o’clock, as was the case for many deck watches made by the first A. Lange & Söhne company during the Second World War, which is a very handsome dial layout. The lack of up and down, F and E, haut et bas, or, in this case, AB und AUF, on modern power reserve indicators is a pet peeve of mine, and one of the many things Lange does right. Another is two tone dials, the Datograph, especially the sleeker Datograph Up/Down, is one of the best-looking watches out there, and this look quite similar. That, combined with the smaller 37.5 mm case size (down from 39 mm) makes this 1815 Up/Down quite different from its past lives. For me, it is certainly more up than down, with the best-looking dial and a contemporary mid-sized case, so making it a limited edition of 300 pieces in each colourway is disappointing. Another letdown: I pr...
SJX Watches
Lange’s Triple Split is Now a Platinum Panda
Arguably the most accomplished A. Lange & Söhne chronograph – and undoubtedly the largest – the Triple Split returns for the third time in the best looking guise yet. Now in platinum for the first time, the new Triple Split has a silver dial with dark grey registers – a “panda” dial done Lange style. Following the last iteration in pink gold from 2021, the latest Triple Split is a new take on the familiar model, so the rest remains the same, including the chunky case that’s 15.6 mm high and accommodates the magnificent, multilayered L132.1 that can measure a pair of elapsed times of up to 12 hours, a world first and only. Initial thoughts The new Triple Split is merely a cosmetic variation on the model, but it’s probably the most appealing version of the model to date. The “panda” dial is a pale grey that reminds me of a long-ago Lange limited edition chronograph, while the dark grey sub-dials are a striking feature rarely found on Lange chronographs. Likewise, the case is identically sized, but now in platinum. The immediate impression of the Triple Split is one of size and weight – now even weightier thanks to the platinum case. It’s a reassuring feeling, albeit at the expense of balance on the wrist and ergonomics. This sensation is de rigueur for complicated Lange watches. In keeping with Lange’s recent confidence, the Triple Split is more expensive than its prior iterations, even accounting for the platinum case. But as is the case with the b...
Fratello
Sunset On The Wrist: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk
There is something slightly dangerous about the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon. The recipe sounds almost too typical of high horology — a 40mm round case, manual winding, an annual calendar, moon phases, and a dial with Roman numerals. On paper, it could easily disappear into the enormous category of beautiful, traditional watches. In the metal, […] Visit Sunset On The Wrist: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
DOXA Finally Made the Titanium Dive Watch I’d Actually Buy
DOXA brings Grade 5 titanium to the regular SUB 300 lineup, with five dial colors, COSC certification, and pricing starting at $3,190.
SJX Watches
Golden Obsidian for Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater
One of the most striking watches to debut at Geneva Watch Days is a new variant of Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater featuring a dial made of Golden Obsidian. In variation from last year’s debut, it’s forgone the glossy black onyx dial in favour of naturally formed volcanic glass. Initial thoughts Beyond the dial the only change is the strap, still with its signature centre-lug though now in a brown calfskin which nicely dresses down the overall package. It’s a perfect example of the brand’s ethos as they expand the collection: methodical, deliberate and measured. Small changes that stack up and give buyers more choice, and the addition of the Golden Obsidian alongside the Onyx shows how one small change can take a watch from classical and serious to relaxed and charming — having both options in the lineup should help satisfy still-healthy demand for stone dials perfectly compliment each other and goes far to round out a healthily expanding lineup for Gérald Genta. Obsidian dial Golden obsidian is a variant of the jet-black volcanic obsidian you’re likely familiar with. It forms naturally when lava cools rapidly and traps microscopic pockets of iron, air and gas bubbles forming organic striations and graining through the glass. These imperfections give golden obsidian its warmth and shimmer, changing dramatically as light hits it from different angles. What it does share with stone is its unique formation, so no two Golden Obsidian dials will be alike. Like wi...
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth’s Gilty Pleasure
Daniel Roth has unveiled the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, a new variant of the brand’s elegant time-only model featuring a gilt black dial. Unlike many contemporary watches that misappropriate the term, this is a true gilt dial by definition, where the gold seen on the dial is in fact the dial plate shining through where the dial finish hasn’t been applied. Initial thoughts Daniel Roth is keeping up its momentum at a thoughtful pace; the latest Extra Plat is quintessential Daniel Roth in style, though it stands in stark contrast to earlier versions of the model. Though the new Extra Plat is unchanged in form and movement, it has a strikingly different feel, akin to a dress watch with a bit more flair. Daniel Roth’s line-up, then and now, was dominated by pale-coloured dials. Though the brand made watches with black dials in its original incarnation back in the 1990s, they were uncommon, making the “Rose Gold Gilt” dial both historically correct and novel. Dial aside, the rest of the watch is familiar. The compact dimensions are spot-on for an old-school dress watch, but unconventional in form thanks to the double-ellipse case. And the movement is simple but finely executed, and decidedly superior to the workmanlike Frederic Piguet calibre in the 1990s original that inspired this. A true gilt dial Creating the dial finish is a multi-stage process. Daniel Roth start with the solid 5N rose gold dial plate and apply a pinstriped guilloché, executed by hand on a straig...
SJX Watches
The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns
Having remade – and refined – its first-ever wristwatch, Louis Vuitton now does the same for the second. The Monterey Ceramic is a reimagining of the LV II of 1988, preserving the Gae Aulenti-designed case and dial but in modern, high-end materials and execution. As with the earlier Monterey in 18k gold, the new model in ceramic does away with the quartz movement of the 1988 original and replaces it with an in-house automatic calibre. The case has been scaled up a little to accommodate the calibre, but retains the proportions and quirky form of the original. But unlike last year’s model, the Monterey Ceramic is regular production. Initial thoughts The Monterey Ceramic is basically a more affordable iteration of last year’s limited edition in 18k gold. It retains the same design, movement, but replaces gold with ceramic (and steel), and the fired enamel dial with a lacquered one. Even with these changes, the Monterey Ceramic is still a far more sophisticated watch than its 1988 inspiration. I like the styling of the 1988 originals, and the modern-day reissues both manage to capture the look and feel of the originals. The Monterey Ceramic in particular sticks to the case diameter of the original, albeit a little thicker, but sticks closely enough to the proportions of the LV II. The Monterey Ceramic is priced like a modern-day luxury watch, but it has the intrinsic features to justify the price. The Monterey Ceramic costs €19,000 before taxes, which is less than a ...
Time+Tide
Daniel Roth makes old new again with new gilt dialed Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt
Daniel Roth unveils the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, pairing a true black gilt dial with a rose gold case and hand-wound DR002 movement.
Time+Tide
Striking a chord: The L.Leroy Vox Temporis swaps a minute hand for a minute repeater
L.Leroy introduces the Vox Temporis, an exclusive minute repeater and flying tourbillon. It features an unconventional single fixed hand with a rotating dial, inspired by a historic 1810 tact watch. Produced in titanium, red gold, and platinum, the watch is limited to just 15 pieces across all three case materials. For modern collectors, the appeal … Continued
Fratello
The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 In Grade 5 Titanium Joins The Brand’s Regular Collection
Doxa is expanding its standard-production Sub 300 collection with the new Sub 300 Ti5. This introduction marks the permanent return of Grade 5 titanium to the range and comes in five of the brand’s signature colorways. Among the lineup is even a fully luminescent Whitepearl dial. The Sub 300 dates back to 1967, when Doxa […] Visit The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 In Grade 5 Titanium Joins The Brand’s Regular Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture (Incl. Video)
Founded in 1988, Frederique Constant can now boast an impressive lineup of 35 in-house calibres powering the brand’s top-tier Manufacture pieces. Redesigned and relaunched in 2020, the Highlife collection is Frederique Constant’s vision of a versatile luxury sports watch with a barrel-shaped case, an interchangeable integrated bracelet and a textured dial. Last year, the brand […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian
What We Know Today, at Geneva Watch Days, Gérald Genta has announced the latest version of its Geneva Minute Repeater. This new version of the watch, which was originally released around this time last year, swaps the black Onyx dial of that release for a novel dial in Golden Obsidian. Other details are largely unchanged, continuing the trend of the revived Gérald Genta expanding its lineup with caution and deliberation. As with last year's Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater, the Golden Obsidian uses the 40mm-wide, 9.6mm-thick yellow-gold version of the cushion-shaped Geneva case (as opposed to the 38mm version introduced earlier this year in the time-only models, which you can read about here). The protruding single-lug design, found on a handful of Genta watches from the later stages of his career (including the Credor Locomotive), means this watch wears pretty close to 40mm lug-to-lug. Inside the Geneva Minute Repeater is the in-house GG-002 movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps. It's a 3 Hz movement with 80 hours of power reserve and an impressively loud minute repeater. It's a nice bit of watchmaking, and — as Mark intimated when he went hands-on with the Onyx-dialed version of this watch last year — it fits nicely into the lineage of Genta-designed minute repeaters. The big talking point with this year's Geneva Minute Repeater is the Golden Obsidian dial. Golden Obsidian — a material I had not encountered before this watch — is a volcanic glass that...
Deployant
Live from GWD26: Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition
Gerald Charles extends their highly sought after Masterlink Collection with the Atelier Edition featuring hand hammered Maillechort dial.
Time+Tide
The VOXEL Meridion VX01-E brings digital timekeeping logic to a mechanical jumping hour
The new Meridion VX01-E from VOXEL showcases a trio of textured dial finishes with an inventive jump hour display
SJX Watches
De Bethune Revives the Digitale in Style
One of De Bethune’s earliest models was a jumping hours wristwatch and now the brand has returned to concept with the DB25 Digitale. While largely similar to the earlier version in terms of function, the latest Digitale is presented in a new format. This is the third iteration of the Digitale – the second was introduced some 12 years ago – and the most elaborate yet in decorative terms. The case is in the wearable DB25 style, but the dial is decorated with the brand’s hallmark techniques, wavy guilloche and star-studded heat-blued titanium. Initial thoughts The DB25 Digitale revives one of De Bethune’s initial concepts, the “digital” time display, but now presented in the De Bethune greatest-hits livery of expansive blued titanium decorated with both the sea and the stars. With its striking, high-contrast colours, the new Digitale looks more current than its predecessor that carried something of an Art Deco pocket watch aesthetic. Admittedly, the DB25 Digitale is a cosmetic makeover and doesn’t add much novelty in technical terms. But it is still very much up to date in technical terms, illustrating the remarkable technical innovation, driven by Denis Flageollet, which continues to serve as De Bethune’s foundations. The DB2144V3 movement remains a sophisticated calibre even though it’s over two decades old. In fact, it arguably boasts substantially more technical content that “new” movements recently debuted by startup independent watchmakers. At CH...
WristBuzz
Chopard's L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph Returns in Prussian Blue, Limited to 25 Pieces
The beloved vintage-inspired chronograph gets a new dial color, and it's a serious upgrade from the forest green original.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Tribute To The Animal Kingdom
What We Know Last week, Vacheron Constantin presented the latest in their Métiers d'Art collection, the Métiers d'Art Tribute to the Animal Kingdom. The impressive collection, which is based on Vacheron's four-aperture display Métiers d'Art watch, is made up of six watches, each featuring a facsimile of an animal made out of an unexpected blend of materials and construction. Notably, each dial in the series was created not by a watchmaker, but rather by an independent artist. This last part is key to the Métiers d'Art idea, which offers watches as a platform for artistry of all sorts, resulting in a collection unlike any other I can think of. The six watches that make up this collection are the: Feathersnake, which features a snake made of several hundred pieces of Lophophore and Goose feather; Glassoctopus, which features a hand-melted and shaped glass octopus set on a hand-guilloched gold-base coated in dark blue; Oraygami, which sets a fever of origami paper rays again against a hand-guilloched gold-base finished in blue; Tigerbroidery, which renders a tiger through an embroidered silk dial using yellow and white gold wire, black ceramic–coated wire, and British and Japanese silk; Papercroc, which uses paper sculpture to evoke a crocodile; and Woodenwings, which features a marquetry dial rendition of a flacon. To go into the process behind each of these dials would take up far more time and space than is available here (maybe something to go into if ever I get to ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Chopard L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator And L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph Limited Editions
What We Know While not a part of Geneva Watch Days (which starts this week), Chopard is preempting the show a bit with two new 25-piece limited editions in their L.U.C. line—the brand's in-house haute horlogerie division. The first up (and more expensive of the two) is the L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator, a 40mm by 10.3mm watch in 18k ethical white gold with 30m water resistance. The dial—which conveys hours (in a subdial), regulator-style minutes, GMT, power reserve, running seconds, and date—is a sunburst-finished silver tone with blue-transferred numbers. The caseback showcases the manually wound, four-barrel (in series) L.U.C 98.02-L movement layout that delivers a massive 9 days of power (part of the Chopard Quattro technology). This kind of high-power-reserve movement has become pretty normalized for Chopard and, because of that, I don't think it gets the appreciation it deserves. The movement, running at 4Hz, is also fantastically finished and features a Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, plus COSC accuracy certification. As mentioned, the L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator is limited to 25 pieces and is now available, retailing for $50,900. On the sportier end of things is the 42mm by 11.48mm 1963 Heritage Chronograph cased in Lucent Steel. It features a deep blue sunburst-polished, galvanic-treated dial, an eggshell-colored printed dial, and Rhodium-plated white gold hands for the hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, and 30-minute and 12-hour counters. The wa...
Monochrome
Introducing - New Versions of the Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Including a New 35mm Size
Marking a pronounced design shift for the British watchmaker, Bremont released the bold Terra Nova Jumping Hour model in 2025. A field watch inspired by early 20th-century military pocket watches and World War I trench watches, the Jumping Hour comes with two different displays: a 38mm montre à guichet-style watch with a covered dial and […]