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Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
May 29, 2026

Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season heads east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. In addition to a strong roster of complications from big brands, and interesting indies as usual, there is a strong showing from the more artistic side of watchmaking spanning gemsetting, enamelling, hand engraving, and wood marquetry. Lot 1010 – Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721 – 1790) was an extraordinarily skilled automata maker from La Chaux-de-Fonds, his most famous work being The Writer, which can write up to 40 pre-programmed characters, dipping his quill into an ink pot at intervals. Today, Swatch Group uses his name for métiers d’art watches and automata; this watch is both. The onyx dial adds lapidary into the mix. It is a two-train watch — turning the crown one direction winds the movement, while the other winds the animation, which is tripped by a button in the crown and runs for an unusually long four minutes on a full wind. The koi swims around the dial, moving its tail back and forth and dives slightly to pass underneath the floating foliage (which is made of gold). A floating lotus flower opposite the koi acts as a visual counterweight. The petals clutch a yellow sapphire — or is it a red ruby, or a blue sapphire? It changes as the flower passes under the leaves or dial. Finally, while the koi is cavorting around the dial, the dragonfly is hard at work keeping track of the movement’s 68-hour power reserve. That movement...

First Look - The Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer, a Bold Step into Integrated Sports Watches Monochrome
Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer May 29, 2026

First Look - The Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer, a Bold Step into Integrated Sports Watches

For years, Formex has been associated with robust, technically minded watches focused on ergonomics, innovative materials and practical engineering. The Essence, Reef, and Stratos collections built the Biel-based independent brand’s reputation as a maker of high-value sports watches with distinctive technical solutions, including the patented Case Suspension System and advanced clasp mechanisms. With the new […]

Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer Fratello
Formex Enters May 29, 2026

Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer

As a small brand, Formex has consistently pushed the boundaries of affordable watchmaking. By using new materials, integrating innovations, and simply creating a great, varied collection of watches, the young Swiss brand has stood out in recent years. With the new Aria Manufacture Chronometer, Formex unveils a new milestone for the company. It marks a […] Visit Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer to read the full article.

Visiting Roventa-Henex SJX Watches
Longines May 28, 2026

Visiting Roventa-Henex

Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex (Roventa), he needs to be. The historic manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes builds watches for dozens of watch brands — some are internet-native ‘micro-brands’ while others are historic names with 19th-century roots. Naturally, few of the firm’s customers choose to reveal this arrangement, preferring the unstated implication of in-house expertise. We went inside this secretive manufacture to see a different side of the Swiss watch industry. Roventa-Henex CEO Jérôme Biard in his office in Tavannes. A short history of Roventa-Henex To better understand Roventa, it’s worth examining the history of watchmaking in Tavannes, a small village in the canton of Bern just 16 km from Biel/Bienne. Watchmaking came to Tavannes relatively late — in the 1860s — nearly two centuries after the first Swiss watches were made. Despite its late start, Tavannes quickly became a major centre of industrial watchmaking in the 1890s when Henri Sandoz — with the backing of two prominent families from La Chaux-de-Fonds — opened an industrialised factory based on the American model of production, complete with the latest American machine tools. By 1905, Tavannes Watch Co.’s factory employed more than 600 workers, making it Switzerland’s third-largest watch factory after Longines and Omega. By 1914 its staff had doubled, and the factory was producing more than 3,000 watches per day. Tav...

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Limited Editions (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II May 28, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Limited Editions (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Zenith introduces two new takes on its distinctive tonneau-shaped A384 chronograph, a modern revival of the model from the late sixties. The new Chronomaster Revival Liberty II is a sequel to the Chronomaster Revival Liberty from 2020, which paired a distinctive red and white striped chronograph seconds hand with a blue dial and white subdials. For the Revival Liberty II, two models are introduced: a stainless steel variant in a run of 250 pieces, and a forged carbon edition in 25 pieces. The theming, as you might guess from the name, focuses on the 250th anniversary of the United States in these US-exclusive editions. Both editions feature that red and white striped chronograph seconds hand (13 stripes for the original 13 colonies). These follow-ups to the original take the blue and white scheme and invert it, with this new dial featuring a white lacquered base with contrasting blue subdials and tachymeter. "250" on the tachymeter scale is highlighted in red in light of the anniversary. The forged carbon edition offers a much more contemporary look, with swirls of silver and black in the ultralight case, pushers, and crown, and paired with a blue textile-embossed rubber strap. The steel version comes with two strap options—a ladder bracelet in stainless steel, as well as a rubber strap for a bit of extra versatility. The case dimensions remain identical to all other A384 revival editions, with a 37mm diameter and 12.6mm thickness. The movement inside...

Fratello Talks: The Watches We’d Buy If We Started Collecting Today Fratello
May 28, 2026

Fratello Talks: The Watches We’d Buy If We Started Collecting Today

Every watch collector has wondered about this at some point. If you could go back to the beginning, armed with everything you know now, what would you do differently? Would you buy fewer watches, take bigger risks, or even skip certain phases altogether? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by RJ and […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Watches We’d Buy If We Started Collecting Today to read the full article.

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection May 27, 2026

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection

We're a few months removed from Watches & Wonders, which gives us some clarity about what was buzz, what was hype, what fell off the wish lists, and what will be a long-term winner. It's looking like Jaeger-LeCoultre had one of the best releases of the fair with the Master Control Chronomètre series. The Master Control line has largely been a dressy take on traditional design cues for a brand people usually think of first for its Reverso. But now, JLC has shown that Master Control can do more. More than just a new case and bracelet, all watches are in-house chronometer-certified 4Hz, 70-hour power reserve movements (COSC does the certification) with a new High Precision Guarantee (HPG) seal, which supplants the former 1000 Hours Control. That new HPG seal means that the brand trials cased watches on four daily-wear specific issues—shocks, positions, altitude, and temperature—over three days, while guaranteeing eight traditional techniques of quality aesthetic finishing. The watches I photographed were brand new and wrapped in plastic, so you have to look past a bit of that to see the quality, but it certainly is there in person. Now with three models in steel and rose gold, with five SKUs (one watch only comes in steel and not gold), measuring 38mm by 8.4mm or 39mm or 9.2mm with 50m of water resistance, the new line brings a lot to the table. Inspired by the brand's Master Mariner Chronomètre line, launched in 1973 as their offering for an integrated bracelet (or adj...

Highlights: Notable Independents at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 27, 2026

Highlights: Notable Independents at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season wraps up with The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As is now the norm, independent watchmakers have carved out a significant section of the catalogue including the usual suspects from F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour, as well as rare showings from under-the-radar makers like Oscillon and Yosuke Sekiguchi. Lot 878 – Oscillon L’instant de Vérité Despite how hot the indie segment has become, Oscillon has largely stayed under the radar, perhaps due to its intensely cerebral nature, or because the brand only produces about five watches per year. The duo behind the brand, Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, are collectors of pre-computerised watchmaking machines. Their collection is so extensive that they can produce all movement parts – save for the jewels and shock protection – under their own roof using these machines. Even putting this context aside, the watches themselves are still mechanically interesting. The most striking detail is the bowtie-shaped balance, which is harder to poise and less aerodynamic than a conventional annular balance, but looks much cooler. L’instant de Vérité uses an unusual tensator constant-force spring. To explain this, consider a tape measure. The force required to pull more length from a tape measure doesn’t noticeably increase regardless of the length already paid out. Now imagine hooking the end of the tape to a pulley, so that turning the pulley (winding) pulls tape out, and ...

Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date Hodinkee
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Flyback May 27, 2026

Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date

What We Know H. Moser & Cie. introduced its first flyback chronograph in 2020 with the Streamliner, a cushion-cased sports watch powered by the HMC 902—an automatic movement with central elapsed-seconds and elapsed-minutes hands and no sub-dials. That watch won the Chronograph Watch Prize at the GPHG and gave rise to a full collection. The next step was always the Endeavour case, and today it's here. The Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date takes the core architecture of the HMC 902, removes the automatic winding system, and uses the freed space to add a second time zone and date—all without any subdials The Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date comes in a 42mm stainless steel case with chronograph pushers at 10 and 2 o'clock and a screw-down crown at 4 o'clock. The dial is a turquoise fumé with a sunburst pattern. The central disc—which carries the second time zone—is in Blackor fumé, also with a sunburst pattern. Around the perimeter, a tachymeter sits on the flange alongside a white minute track that handles both elapsed seconds and minutes for the chronograph. Hands are leaf-shaped and filled with Super-LumiNova, as is the tip of the dual-time arrow. Uniting three complications—a flyback chronograph, a second time zone, and a date display—the watch does away with traditional subdials entirely. Instead, all indications are centralized: a red hand tracks chronograph seconds, a rhodium-plated hand shows elapsed minutes, and the second time zon...

Introducing: Dennison + Collectability Edition Oblique Collection Hodinkee
Patek Philippe vintage specialist Collectability May 27, 2026

Introducing: Dennison + Collectability Edition Oblique Collection

What We Know The revived and relaunched Dennison brand that returned in 2024 and snagged a GPHG award with its debut, the quartz-powered stone-dial ALD Collection, is back with a fresh take on the retro design-driven model. Marking its second collaboration with U.S.-based Patek Philippe vintage specialist Collectability and its founder, John Reardon, the Dennison + Collectability 2026 Edition Oblique Collection brings designer Emmanuel Gueit's interpretation of asymmetric watch design, recalling Patek timepieces, including its Ellipse models, as well as those produced with famed Swiss jeweler Gilbert Albert.  Featuring the same case as the flagship ALD collection, in stainless steel or gold PVD coating, the latest Dennison + Collectability collab reimagines the standard ALD housing with an asymmetric bezel design that thoroughly transforms the look and feel of the timepiece. It's a surprisingly effective and imaginative way to reconsider the case at the core of the brand, and it has also been used in its two-handset, quartz-powered ALD Dual Time models.  The collaboration is available in two different dial designs in either stainless steel or gold PVD. First up is the 'Oblique Enigma Dial' that features a metal cutout on the sunburst and a blue and green two-tone dial. The metal border accentuates the asymmetry of the design and contrasts with the same shape used on the bezel.  The other dial is a sector-style or starburst pattern that the brand calls its 'Oblique Vecto...

A Hands-On Introduction To The Limited-Edition Oblique Collection By Dennison And Collectability Fratello
Patek Philippe specialist John Reardon unveil May 27, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The Limited-Edition Oblique Collection By Dennison And Collectability

After last year’s limited-edition ALD watches, Dennison and Collectability are back with another collaboration. Designer Emmanuel Gueit and Patek Philippe specialist John Reardon unveil four watches featuring a new asymmetric design. The Oblique Enigma features a stepped dial, just like last year’s ALD editions. The Oblique Vector features a sunburst dial enhanced by subtle printing […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Limited-Edition Oblique Collection By Dennison And Collectability to read the full article.

Interview: Zenith’s Product Chief Officer on Reviving the Chronometer Cal. 135 SJX Watches
Zenith s Product Chief Officer May 25, 2026

Interview: Zenith’s Product Chief Officer on Reviving the Chronometer Cal. 135

For much of the past quarter-century, Zenith has built its brand on the back of the El Primero — a fast-beating chronograph calibre that debuted in 1969. But last year — for its 160th anniversary — the brand revived the time-only calibre 135 – a legendary competition calibre originally developed in the late 1940s. The reborn movement debuted within a new collection — the GFJ — named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot. To better understand what lies behind the relaunch of the cal. 135, we talked to Romain Marietta, Chief Product Officer at Zenith. David Serra, Technical Director of Movement Development, provided additional production insights. As Mr Marietta explains, the relaunch of the cal. 135 opens a new chapter for Zenith — more exclusive and more artisanal, featuring precious materials, elevated finishing and a classical aesthetic inspired by the designs of the 1950s. In short, closer to the independent watchmakers’ approach and to their audience. And this is only the beginning — the Le Locle-based brand has plans to further develop both the calibre and the collection. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Let’s start at the beginning: what makes cal. 135 so special? Romain Marietta (RM): For context, it was produced from 1949 until 1962. At the time, the pursuit of precision had a real genuine meaning. Watchmakers measured their strength, stature and reputation through the prizes they won. This movement was created f...

Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complications May 25, 2026

Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season goes east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As usual, Phillips has put together a very strong lineup, and, as is often the case at watch auctions, Patek Philippe watches — both vintage and modern — have an outsized share of the catalogue. Lot 940 – Patek Philippe Bailey Banks & Biddle Triple Complication Patek Philippe produced this watch for Philadelphian jeweler Bailey Banks & Biddle around 1895, and it bears only the retailer’s name on the dial, which was not unusual. While the company came to a rather undignified end in the 21st century, it was once a manufacturing jeweller, medalist, and major Patek Philippe retailer. The dial is in rather rough condition by the standards of enamel dials, and while the dial may the most important thing to many wristwatch collectors, here the triple-complication movement is what matters. It features a minute repeater, chronograph, and perpetual calendar — which is presumably instantaneous. Note the lack of a minutes counter for the chronograph. While taken for granted on modern chronographs, most Patek Philippe triple complications did without it. In fact, the most common upgrade path for triple complications was a rattrapante, not minutes counter. The counterweighted pallet fork is also worth mention — this refinement disappeared as the Swiss lever matured and watchmakers realised a lighter pallet fork was better than a balanced one. The movement is fully functional, ...

Hands-On: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton Hodinkee
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon May 22, 2026

Hands-On: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton

The Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. made quite an unconventional splash this year at Watches & Wonders, with its completely out-of-left-field collaboration with Reebok for the Streamliner "Pump," a watch-and-sneaker release that only this brand could somehow manage to pull off. But there was a release that kind of slipped under the radar earlier in the year that I think offers a really excellent combination of Moser's strengths in one watch, which warrants a closer look. I'm talking about the Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton launched at the end of January, and it's been a watch I've wanted to see in person since the announcement went live. On paper, it seems like a simple enough concept: take the skeletonized flying tourbillon movement Caliber HMC-814 introduced back in 2024 for the integrated bracelet Streamliner collection, and pair it with one of Moser's more classic and conservative Endeavour silhouettes. For me, that skeletonized flying tourbillon caliber has remained one of my favorite architectures that the brand has ever come out with, and I think the extra bit of elegance gained with the Endeavour case makes it stand out on its own. That 40mm Endeavour case, in 5N red gold, should feel very familiar to those who like Moser's designs. It is a twist on a dressier silhouette that looks simple from the top down, but at any other angle, the Endeavour has many interesting little design touches, from the concave bezel to the distinctive sculpting of the case flanks. They...

Does Cartier’s Tank Américaine Live Up To The Legacy? (Review) WatchAdvice
Cartier s Tank Américaine Live May 22, 2026

Does Cartier’s Tank Américaine Live Up To The Legacy? (Review)

The short answer: Yes! The Cartier Tank Américaine is a standout watch that looks and feels a lot more versatile than it lets on. Let’s find out why! What We Love: A versatile yet elegant design A sportier remix of a legendary icon Wears comfortably on the leather strap What We Don’t: Readability suffers in the first and third quarters The crown is small and fiddly Where’s the display caseback? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 I think that, since I began working at WatchAdvice, my opinion on Cartier has changed the least. I’d already heard so much about it from every corner of culture; rap songs and rom-coms sing equal praise of the Parisian powerhouse. So, when this opportunity came along, it simply allowed me to get closer to a brand I had already learned to appreciate. With closeness, though, comes closer scrutiny. Cartier bears the weight of a rich legacy on its shoulders, and even the smallest deviation can have Cartier fans questioning their loyalty. Its model lines, in both jewellery and watchmaking, have become so iconic that remixing them is a massive risk. Getting it wrong, depending on who you ask, is intolerable. These are the stakes Cartier faces with the Tank Américaine. How could they possibly change the formula of such a universally popular watch collection while preserving the original DNA? That’s what I aimed to find out when I took the Tank Américaine for a spin some time ago...

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey Hodinkee
Ming May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey

What We Know Arken, the UK-based microbrand, has come back into the spotlight with the next public edition of its popular traveler dual-time watch, this time with a "Sage Grey" dial. It follows two preceding versions, one with a grey dial and one with a black dial, both of which were introduced back in 2023 and offered first as 200-piece preorders, a restock, and then an open-ended run early last year. While those versions are no longer available to order online, Arken founder Kenneth Lam told me that those editions can still be found at shows and via the brand's slowly growing network of retailers. And while the brand was busy assembling watches and fulfilling these orders all of last year, those who keep a close eye on the brand or have gone to any of Arken's meetups will know that a few "Speakeasy" editions have since popped up, available only in person and at these specific shows and meetups, often coming with a Cerakoted case. But finally, this new Sage Grey Alterum marks another reference that will be available to the broader public.  First introduced earlier this year at British Watchmakers' Day, this new dial takes the classic British racing green and desaturates it to an extreme, offering only a small hint of its verdant nature in what otherwise appears to be a quite monochromatic dial. A sand-colored dual-time hand adds a subtle touch of warmth to the otherwise cool dial, which complements the grey hue of the 38mm grade 2 titanium case. On the dial, two small ci...

James Bond And His Omega Seamaster Watches - An Overview Fratello
Omega Seamaster Watches — May 21, 2026

James Bond And His Omega Seamaster Watches - An Overview

In the original James Bond books by Ian Fleming, the secret agent wore the same watch as the author himself, a Rolex Explorer ref. 1016. In the James Bond movies, however, he wore a variety of watches from different brands. Interestingly enough, it was never an Explorer. And as you know, Bond has worn Omega […] Visit James Bond And His Omega Seamaster Watches — An Overview to read the full article.

My 1968 Hamilton Accumatic A-203: Honoring A Legacy In 14K Gold Worn & Wound
Hamilton Accumatic A-203 Honoring May 20, 2026

My 1968 Hamilton Accumatic A-203: Honoring A Legacy In 14K Gold

For many, an interest in horology is sparked by inheriting a wristwatch or pocket watch from a relative. While my fascination with the hobby instead stems from a spur-of-the-moment purchase at a flea market, I’ve been lucky enough to inherit several timepieces that will always be part of my collection and family. Recently, my grandfather, Raymond Harter, passed away at the age of 81. After his passing, my initial feelings and reaction, of course, centered around the familial sphere––taking time with loved ones to grieve and remember the times we had spent together over the years. As a watch collector, however, there was a part of me that felt he never really left. You see, I had received a 1968 Hamilton Accumatic A-203 with a solid 14K gold case from him years ago, which his father had purchased brand new and passed down to him. Even though we couldn’t chat about the New York Giants and watch SportsCenter together anymore, this Accumatic symbolized to me that those memories and that legacy aren’t going away anytime soon. I had researched this model when I first received it, and was only able to locate one or two blogs about it. There’s truly no better time than now to take a deep dive into the A-203 and learn about the watch that my family will cherish for generations to come. A Brief History of the Hamilton Accumatic Line and the A-203 The Accumatic line was a staple of Hamilton watchmaking for almost two decades, beginning production in 1956 and ceasing by 19...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France Hodinkee
Christopher Ward CEO Mike France May 20, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the head of what's now the largest U.K.-based watch brand, Christopher Ward. Under the direction of Chief Executive Officer Mike France, the Swiss-made, approachable-priced watchmaker has enjoyed outsized growth in recent years, due in part to popular and surprising releases like its Bel Canto chiming watch and its commitment to keeping prices in check. Photo courtesy Christopher Ward.  Now Christopher Ward, which recently overhauled its core Sealander collection, is eyeing an ambitious retail expansion plan in its biggest market, the United States. France lays out the economics and business case for the brand's unique retail approach, powered by deep community relationships built with customers over the past two decades. The ambitions aren't insignificant. From a handful of showrooms now, the company could have as many as 25 to 30 locations in the U.S. alone within half a decade, the CEO says.  He sees Christopher Ward as a brand with the potential to reach £250 million in total annual sales, up from about £50 million today. France expects to hit £100 million in annual sales within three years. He's also refreshingly candid about the threat that U.S. tariffs posed to the business and how the levies forced it to change the way its watches are shipped to and distributed in the country. Tariffs were also a significant drag on financial results in 2025, but the brand is forecasting a rebound in 2026 if import dutie...

Introducing the Longines Legend Diver 59 Worn & Wound
Longines Legend Diver 59 Someday May 18, 2026

Introducing the Longines Legend Diver 59

Someday, when the history of the contemporary vintage inspired sports watch is written, the Longines Legend Diver will need an entire chapter devoted to it. It’s an incredibly important watch not just in this very specific genre (which at times over the last decade or so has been the most important segment in watchmaking) but in the annals of modern watch history. I sometimes think its influence is not quite given enough credit as it is often compared and lumped in with the Tudor Black Bay, but the Legend Diver is very much its own thing and set a course for Longines upon its introduction that the brand is still very much following to this day.  There have been a number of iterations on the original Legend Diver format over the years, including limited editions and a very well received line of smaller, more compact Legend Divers in easy to wear 39mm cases. The latest Legend Diver, the Legend Diver 59, arrives today and feels like a return to the original reissue of the iconic diver in a number of ways.  The most notable thing about the Legend Diver 59 (besides the name, which will likely invite even more comparisons, and probably some memes, comparing the watch to various numbered Tudor Black Bays) is the watch’s size. The case here measures 42mm, the same as the original reissue of the Legend Diver, as well as the actual original Legend Diver, which first appeared in, you guessed it, 1959. When I saw this watch in person at a Longines preview event in Dallas earlier...

Introducing the Horologically Unique HU-01 “Finale” Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe s Calatrava 96 May 18, 2026

Introducing the Horologically Unique HU-01 “Finale”

Last year’s HU-01 took the watch world by storm, paying homage to Patek Philippe’s Calatrava 96 and offering it for a fraction of the source material’s price. Horologically Unique stuck closely to the Calatrava’s design language but added their own embellishments and twists. The original HU-01 modernized a classic to some degree, taking the original’s case dimensions of 31mm and bulking them up to 36mm, using a high-domed sapphire crystal, and installing an exhibition case back. Horologically Unique’s newest model, named the HU-01 Finale, takes the same general formula but adds a hint of luxury and a dash of more historically-accurate design elements. The Finale positions itself somewhere between the first HU-01 and the original Calatrava 96, both in aesthetics and pricing. So what makes the Finale a cut above its predecessor? The first notable difference can be seen with the two dials on offer: one in a brushed grey finish and the other with a stone dial made of jade. The latter model, nicknamed the “Yu” or “玉” meaning jade in Chinese, exhibits a gorgeous greenish-blue hue courtesy of the Burmese jade. It’s unlike most other stone dials I’ve seen, and I’m sure it will be a sight to behold in-person under direct lighting. Adorning both dials are a series of lab-grown diamonds, three baguette cut and eight round brilliant cut. Adding a bit of bling to a sterile dial is a unique choice, one I think helps add more character to what otherwise would ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive May 17, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium

Grand Seiko surprised friend and foe at Watches and Wonders when the brand released a smaller, more accurate dive watch at a lower price than its predecessor. The Ushio 300 diver, naturally, was met with applause. So, for this week’s showdown, we thought we’d stack it up against a watch so popular that it is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium to read the full article.

Introducing - The Calatrava-Inspired Horologically Unique HU-01 Finale Series, Smaller and with Diamond Dials Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava 96 basically May 16, 2026

Introducing - The Calatrava-Inspired Horologically Unique HU-01 Finale Series, Smaller and with Diamond Dials

Like many microbrands, Singapore-based Horologically Unique was fueled by a passion for watches and the desire to create something personal, something that would first answer the own requirements of the creator. In this case, the idea was to offer a watch that respects as much as possible the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96, basically the blueprint […]

Introducing: The Beaucroft Contour GMT And Solaris GMT Limited Edition In Collaboration With Time+Tide Fratello
Beaucroft Contour GMT May 16, 2026

Introducing: The Beaucroft Contour GMT And Solaris GMT Limited Edition In Collaboration With Time+Tide

Cambridge-based independent watchmaker Beaucroft announces two new timepieces focused on the GMT function. Crossing time zones is part of the job as an independent watchmaker sourcing components, building connections, and constantly spreading the word. That daily grind makes the GMT complication a natural next step for Beaucroft. Tracking dual time zones keeps the wearer punctual […] Visit Introducing: The Beaucroft Contour GMT And Solaris GMT Limited Edition In Collaboration With Time+Tide to read the full article.

Bring a Loupe: A Patek Beta 21, A Movado Cronoplan, A Hamilton 6B 'Mark XI,' and a Zenith Time Command Hodinkee
Hamilton 6B Mark XI May 15, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Patek Beta 21, A Movado Cronoplan, A Hamilton 6B 'Mark XI,' and a Zenith Time Command

Scorekeeping last week: the only watch of the four highlighted to have sold is that bonkers purple-dialed Sub from Tropical Watch; the Patek 3970, the Omega 145.022BA, and the Movado Polyplan all remain available. Deep breaths, everyone: another week's on the books. Auction season's in full swing, and there are wild results all over the place, but let's take a little breather here, together, and look at less dizzyingly priced goodies. Strays Perhaps you've found yourself of late—coincidentally!—more curious than usual about pocket watches. While Mark's the Official Pocket Watch Tsar, I've always liked them, and fight the urge most weeks to include any here. No more! This week, there's this extraordinary, anonymous jump-hour pocket watch that is almost unfairly beautiful for being 200 years old. If that doesn't float your boat, you have the relatively uncommon opportunity to nab a Thomas Engel Tourbillon (if the name Thomas Engel doesn't register, gird your ego before digging in—compared with Professor Engel, we're all pathetic underachievers).  It doesn't seem reasonable that any of us should be able to purchase a gold Breguet pocket watch with hour and quarter repeater from 1795—insert Harrison Ford growling "It belongs in a museum!"—and yet you can do just that right here. If, however, you wish to remain yoked to the tyranny of telling time on your wrist, here's a Speedmaster Racing Dial which, yes, isn't exactly in showroom condition, but they're uncommon eno...

Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean Fratello
Ming ly ready May 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean

Listen up because today, we’re talking about another new brand on Fratello. Briston, a small French brand, was established in 2013, but it’s seemingly ready for the big stage. Frankly, after going hands-on with several of the company’s pieces at Time To Watches in Geneva, I think they’re worth a look. Happily, we start our […] Visit Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean to read the full article.