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Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Apr 27, 2026

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre The calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet?  There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once f...

Hands-On With The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar In Steel During Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Apr 27, 2026

Hands-On With The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar In Steel During Watches And Wonders 2026

Now you can get the characteristic features without the exorbitant price. Well, the Poinçon de Genève-certified Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in steel is hardly a cheap watch, but it is the gateway to the Roger Dubuis universe. And what a way to enter the world of hand-crafted high horology it is. With its 40 […] Visit Hands-On With The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar In Steel During Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5610P and Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Comparison Apr 27, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5610P and Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin

Comparison is often said to be the thief of joy, but the numerous attributes of the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5610P and Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin ref. 2500v are arguably best understood in a side-by-side format. The watches are extraordinarily similar — each watch features a platinum case and bracelet, a slim micro-rotor automatic movement, and a rare two-hand, no-date configuration. Beyond their tangible similarities, both watches are limited editions priced within 7% of one another, and were launched to mark milestone anniversaries of their respective collections. Initial thoughts Rarely do rival brands treat collectors to such a perfect match-up. Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin could hardly have done more to go toe-to-toe, and have unexpectedly made 2026 the golden age of the platinum sports watch. The original Patek Philippe Nautilus from 1976 was provocative precisely because it was made in steel at a time when ‘high-end’ still meant precious metal. Five decades later, the steel sports watch trend has arguably peaked, making the stealthy platinum ref. 5610P a fitting tribute. It captures the look of the original without diluting its legacy with yet another steel variant. While Vacheron Constantin has dabbled in steel sports watches since as far back as 1977 with the 222, the Overseas collection only debuted in 1996. Now in its third generation, the Overseas has evolved into a substantive rival to both the Patek Philippe Nauti...

Our Favorite Complicated Watches From Watches & Wonders 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Apr 23, 2026

Our Favorite Complicated Watches From Watches & Wonders 2026

Our editors might still be reorienting themselves to their local timezone after being on Geneva time the past week, but the challenges of Watches & Wonders Editors' Picks must continue while the show is fresh in their minds. For this edition, we tasked our editors with selecting the watch complication that has stuck with them most from this year's lineup. From the sophisticated to the decidedly playful, down below, you'll find the watch complications that have risen above the pack, as decided by our editorial team. Explore our full editorial coverage of this year's show here.  D.C. Hannay: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar Another luxury watch pick, another slam dunk for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Whichever way the wind is blowing in the Vallée de Joux, it’s been doing wonders for JLC of late, exemplified by the new Master Control Chronometre series. The brand has finally gone and made a modern, real-deal integrated luxury model, and enthusiasts are pricking up their ears. Along with the sleek Chronometre Date and the symmetrically gifted Chronometre Date Power Reserve, they’ve come up with a truly breathtaking riff on one of the most complicated complications, the Chronometre Perpetual Calendar. Absent of the hype surrounding the Royal Oak or the Nautilus, we’re presented with a beautifully balanced dial and cohesive design, packaged in a startlingly svelte 39mm case just 9.2mm thin. Also available in a glowing pink gold with a complementary br...

Unpacking Patek Philippe’s Latest Novelties from the 50th Anniversary of the Nautilus and Beyond Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe s Latest Novelties from Apr 23, 2026

Unpacking Patek Philippe’s Latest Novelties from the 50th Anniversary of the Nautilus and Beyond

Perhaps only second to Rolex, Patek Philippe’s novelties rank among some of the most highly anticipated at each year’s Watches & Wonders. The maison (like Rolex) is one of a select few brands that notoriously keeps its models under strict lock and key until the fair. Despite receiving the press kit in our inboxes that fateful morning, we all know nothing really compares to seeing the watches in the metal. Once you’ve been attending Watches & Wonders for many years, you know the Patek Philippe choreography well. The booth is one of the sleekest and most well-appointed each year, standing brightly lit and with a commanding presence directly across from the moodier Rolex outpost. As you pass through the threshold, you’re met with a warm and serene vibe that may surprise some for such a prestigious and traditional brand. After mingling with representatives from every major U.S. media outlet, you’re all ushered into the expansive roundtable room at the back of the booth. Here, you must choose your seat carefully in front of the covered tray you hope will reveal the novelty you’re most excited to see. At the moment of the grand unveiling, gloved experts from the maison lift the coverings off the trays in perfect synchronicity, marking the start of the dance, which moves counterclockwise around each station featuring a different watch family. This year, I choose well, beginning my journey with the 50th anniversary Nautilus models. Here, we have three new executions of...

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Goes Upmarket With the Supernova Tourbillon and a Vintage-Styled Chronograph With a Historic Movement Worn & Wound
Bremont Goes Upmarket Apr 22, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Goes Upmarket With the Supernova Tourbillon and a Vintage-Styled Chronograph With a Historic Movement

For Watches and Wonders 2026, Bremont is aiming for the stars: not only with the Supernova Chronograph, a new space-oriented lineup that will actually go to the moon, but also showcasing what the British brand can do with a pair of upmarket, collectible chronographs. One of them features an in-house tourbillon movement, while the other resurrects an vaunted historic movement in an elegant, limited-edition, and vintage-inspired design.  The Supernova Chronograph, also making its debut in Geneva at Watches & Wonders, is the first of a new line for Bremont, a steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a generously-sized 41mm case. But Bremont is also using its architecture to debut the brand’s second tourbillon movement, following 2024’s Terra Nova Dual Time Tourbillon. This time around, the Supernova Tourbillon exhibits a skeleton design with all of its movement bridges and tourbillon cage displayed around a black ceramic bezel and a sapphire crystal, with red jewels as the Supernova’s only exhibition of color.  Dramatically, the markers, bridges, Dauphine hands, and the tourbillon’s three markers glow with a bright blue Super-LumiNova, a nod to the space theme that the Supernova is aiming for.  If the Supernova Tourbillon is aimed at the future, Bremont’s other release has a distinctly vintage feel-starting from its movement. Bremont is resurrecting the Valjoux 23 two-register chronograph movement into its new Altitude Chronograph Pulsometer: a restor...

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V Apr 22, 2026

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V

The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V is a release from the brand at this year's Watches and Wonders that's gotten quite a bit of chatter, deservedly so. After all, it is the brand's thinnest-ever Overseas, thanks to a brand-new in-house movement developed over seven years, which means what I assume to be an ungodly amount of R&D; dollars per millimeter shaved. It's also come at a time when Vacheron seems to be really having a moment - the passion I saw amongst Vacheron collectors when I was in Miami last month for the opening of the brand's largest U.S. boutique was very much an exciting sight to see.  But is the final result worth all the effort? Very much so, if we take the new Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V as an ultra-limited, ultra-expensive halo product to mark the development of this new caliber. This 2500V and the Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points released alongside it at Watches and Wonders are already seeing very strong demand, and I think that's a sign of a good showing in Geneva. To many collectors of Vacheron over the years, the previous ultra-thin, time-only Overseas 2000V might feel like it had just come out, but in fact, a decade has passed since its introduction. Coming in white gold, the case measured 40mm in diameter, with a thickness of 7.5mm. Inside was the Vacheron 1120 caliber, a version of the JLC caliber 920 that had found its way in many watches amongst the Holy Trinity of brands, thanks to its superlative of being the thinnest aut...

Business News: Timothée Chalamet Joins Urban Jürgensen As Minority Partner And Creative Advisor Hodinkee
Franck Muller Apr 22, 2026

Business News: Timothée Chalamet Joins Urban Jürgensen As Minority Partner And Creative Advisor

Timothée Chalamet has gotten really deep into independent watchmaking lately. He's shown up at press events, basketball games, and on the red carpet, wearing everything from a Simon Brette to a Franck Muller and even an Akrivia AK-06. He's also been wearing a neo-vintage Urban Jürgensen from time to time. But it seems like he's always rotated back to his trusty Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, the time-only watch that launched with the brand's revival last summer. He wore the watch promoting the movie Marty Supreme, and again later, when he won the Golden Globe for Best Male Actor in a Motion Picture – Musical or Comedy for that same film. And now, in a move that makes his passion for the brand official, he's gotten on board as a minority partner and creative advisor. Timothée Chalamet wears an Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 as he attends the 83rd annual Golden Globe Awards at The Beverly Hilton on January 11, 2026 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images) In a press release provided by the brand, Alex Rosenfield, CEO of Urban Jürgensen, says that Chalamet's passion for independent watchmaking isn't just him hopping on a trend, but rather a part of his passion for craft and quality of work. "We want to work together to advance our mission of bringing a contemporary perspective to the world of independent watchmaking while remaining grounded in what has always defined it," says Rosenfield. The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, UJ-1, and UJ-3, from our story on the brand rev...

Good Vibrations: Armin Strom reveals  the Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition Quill & Pad
Armin Strom reveals  Apr 22, 2026

Good Vibrations: Armin Strom reveals  the Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition

We all know that watchmakers love complications. Throughout history, the quest for ever greater chronometric precision has produced a wide range of mechanisms, like the tourbillon, which has been mastered by many and improved. The post Good Vibrations: Armin Strom reveals  the Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition appeared first on Quill & Pad.

Introducing - The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm and Khaki Field Mechanical 250 Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm Apr 20, 2026

Introducing - The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm and Khaki Field Mechanical 250

Founded in the United States and producing in Switzerland now, Hamilton returns to one of its lesser-seen military references with a new Khaki Field Mechanical watch, this time offered in two versions released side by side. On the one hand, the Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm is a globally available model that brings back the design […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Stratospheric Gyrotourbillon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Stratospheric Gyrotourbillon Jaeger-L... Apr 20, 2026

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Stratospheric Gyrotourbillon

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has introduced its next-generation multi-axis tourbillon as part of its new Hybris Inventiva collection, introduced purely to explore complications previously thought to be ”impossible” to achieve. The collection opens with the Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère, which improves upon prior Gyrotourbillon models by taking the oscillator through 98% of possible positions. Initial thoughts The impressive movement of the Stratosphere was ostensibly developed to improve accuracy, and on a theoretical basis the multi-axis design should go a long way to eliminate positional errors. Of course, in reality it’s difficult to outperform simplicity. That said, the new cal. 178 is a thoughtfully engineered and impressively constructed mechanical sculpture that does credit to its maker, showcasing JLC’s breadth of capabilities. It’s also quite wearable by the standards of its category. Some past Gyrotourbillon models suffered from excessive size - namely the ungainly Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. Fortunately, the Stratosphère is comparatively sleek at just 42 mm, though the movement uses every bit of its 16.15 mm thickness. Understanding the Inventiva The new Hybris Inventiva collection has a different mandate than the existing Hybris Mechanica and Hybris Artistica collections. Specifically, each Inventiva will features just one complication, albeit one taken to new heights. The Inventiva collection will feature ideas born from blue-sky...

WWG26: And it’s a wrap! Deployant
Apr 19, 2026

WWG26: And it’s a wrap!

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Four full and fulfilling days has come to an end. We published some 500 IG short stories, 21 IG Reels and Posts, and 37 website articles during this week. And we are talking a rest today. We start tomorrow with Armchair picks which will run the whole week. We will have two guests posting their [...] The post WWG26: And it’s a wrap! appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

The Quiet Sweet Spot: Why The IWC Mark XVI Spitfire Ref. IW325502 Deserves More Attention Fratello
IWC Mark XVI Spitfire Ref Apr 18, 2026

The Quiet Sweet Spot: Why The IWC Mark XVI Spitfire Ref. IW325502 Deserves More Attention

Certain watches quietly sit in the sweet spot of the collector market. They’re not hyped, not aggressively marketed, and not yet pulled into the gravitational field of speculative pricing. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVI Spitfire ref. IW325502 is one of them. Produced in the mid-2000s, this neo-vintage pilot’s watch captures something that feels increasingly […] Visit The Quiet Sweet Spot: Why The IWC Mark XVI Spitfire Ref. IW325502 Deserves More Attention to read the full article.

WWG26: Highlights from TUDOR Deployant
Tudor DEPLOYANT - Apr 18, 2026

WWG26: Highlights from TUDOR

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We take a look at the latest novelties from TUDOR, fresh off the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026. Press release with commentary in italics. Images courtesy of TUDOR. TUDOR, the sister brand of Rolex, is often known for its robust and well-priced tool watches. We take a quick look at some of the models the brand is [...] The post WWG26: Highlights from TUDOR appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Introducing: The Venezianico Arsenale Calendario Fratello
Venezianico Arsenale Calendario It’s been Apr 17, 2026

Introducing: The Venezianico Arsenale Calendario

It’s been a big week here in Geneva, but we’re not done yet! Venezianico, the Venice-based brand, has brought a new take on its popular integrated-bracelet model, the Arsenale. Until now, there have been several options for case materials, dial composition, and a choice of two or three hands. Now, for the first time, we […] Visit Introducing: The Venezianico Arsenale Calendario to read the full article.

Introducing - Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Apr 17, 2026

Introducing - Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater

When it was unveiled in 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 362 stunned the horological world as the slimmest automatic minute repeater with a tourbillon regulator. For 2026, Jaeger revisits its high-complication masterpiece with the new Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater, a ten-piece limited edition with an openworked dial reaffirming the Maison’s dominance in chiming mechanisms, […]

Introducing - Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Apr 17, 2026

Introducing - Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date

Jaeger-LeCoultre revisits one of its most important contemporary tourbillon movements with the new Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date. While the underlying Calibre 978 is familiar to collectors, the latest iteration restructures the movement’s architecture. Featuring a partially openworked dial, the tourbillon, signature jumping date mechanism, and 24-hour display come to the fore. Paying homage […]

Introducing - Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Zodiac and Venus Annual Calendar Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Zodiac Apr 17, 2026

Introducing - Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Zodiac and Venus Annual Calendar

Christiaan van der Klaauw is a renowned Dutch independent watch brand specialising exclusively in astronomical complications, making it the world’s only atelier dedicated solely to handcrafted timepieces inspired by celestial mechanics. Founded in 1974 by master watchmaker Christiaan van der Klaauw, who retired in 2009, the brand is now in the hands of watchmaker Pim […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
Apr 17, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From Watches And Wonders 2026

Another Friday, another list! With Watches and Wonders nearing its end, it is time to look back at some of the show’s best releases. This week saw an avalanche of new watches, and it was sometimes hard to keep up. As always, the anticipation was palpable. But did the brands deliver? For now, we will […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon Fratello
Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC Apr 16, 2026

Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon

I am a fan of Formex. I like that the brand attempts to create the best-built watch within its chosen price category. The designs aren’t for everyone, but the build quality is undoubtedly excellent. I’ve had hands-on experience with Formex’s Field and Reef models. On both counts, they left me impressed, particularly given their asking […] Visit Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon to read the full article.

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection Apr 16, 2026

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection

Jaeger‑LeCoultre reshapes the Master Control line with three new Chronometre models in two materials. The collection takes inspiration from the integrated case and bracelet first seen on the Master Mariner Chronomètre in 1973. This time, the execution feels thoroughly modern and far more refined. The lineup includes the 38mm time-and-date model, a 39mm version with […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection to read the full article.

Van Cleef & Arpels Presents A Duo Of Midnight Watches At Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
Chopard Apr 15, 2026

Van Cleef & Arpels Presents A Duo Of Midnight Watches At Watches And Wonders 2026

As a guest writer, I can attest that one thing that stands out about Fratello is the sheer breadth of brands it covers. From watchmaking giants such as Chopard to microbrands like Aevig, Fratello is always up for giving a good watch, however famous or niche it may be, a well-deserved moment in the spotlight. […] Visit Van Cleef & Arpels Presents A Duo Of Midnight Watches At Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch SJX Watches
Tudor Ascends Apr 15, 2026

Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch

Tudor celebrates 100 years and marks the occasion by launching the dressy Monarch. A more obscure model in the brand’s catalogue, the original Monarch was retired during the early 2000s. The model makes its return, with an emphasis on movement finishing and quality.  Initial Thoughts It is no secret that Tudor had their fair share of hit and misses in terms of design, especially during the ‘90s. The original Monarch was an unfortunate blend of sporty and elegant elements, which resulted in a rather unappealing and mostly forgotten product.  The new Monarch fortunately has almost nothing to do with his ancestor, save for the name. The new timepiece reimagines the beloved if quirky California dial, improves greatly in terms of movement finishing and manages to blend well both classy and sporty elements.    At first sight one might be tempted to assume the Monarch is a dress timepiece, but elements like the metal link bracelet, angular overall profile and screw-down crown give it a sporty, rugged edge.  Tudor made an interesting choice with the dial colour, going for a coarsely brushed sand-hued piece paired with black applied indices. The California configuration paired with the small seconds at 6 o’clock is dressy, but the angular case makes for a thoroughly sporty look.  The specific case shape is vintage-coded but benefits from modern execution techniques. The new bracelet shape is a welcome departure from Tudor’s usual Oyster-inspired straps and fits in wel...

Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In White Gold With A Sodalite Dial Fratello
Piaget Polo 79 Apr 15, 2026

Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In White Gold With A Sodalite Dial

One of my absolute favorite watch releases in recent years is the Piaget Polo 79 - more specifically, the 2024 version in yellow gold. Later, Piaget introduced a white gold version, along with a bicolor model in white and yellow gold. Now, during Watches and Wonders 2026, Piaget introduces another Polo 79. But this time, […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In White Gold With A Sodalite Dial to read the full article.