Hodinkee
In-Depth: Carl F. Bucherer’s New "Mastery Lab" Brings Pièce Unique To The Masses – If You Can Afford One
The minds behind the new individualization program believe that if you're ponying up for a watch, it should be distinctly yours.
Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)
25,967 articles · 6,914 videos found · page 764 of 1097
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022
For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Baltic Tricompax Panda and Reverse Panda deliver retro-fuelled chronograph action
As soon as Baltic unveiled their Tricompax collaboration with Peter Auto, we all held our breath for the standard model to drop and give the masses a taste of the retro-fuelled chronograph action. Now, the Baltic Tricompax Panda and Reverse Panda have been brought into non-limited production giving us two deliciously vintage colour options with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baltic Tricompax Panda and Reverse Panda deliver retro-fuelled chronograph action appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches?
Editor’s Note: Recently the Kurono Chronograph 1 Mk.2 went up for sale, and has since sold out. More seasoned watch enthusiasts are likely familiar with the cult-followed micro-independent brand, but, for those new to to the space, some of you may have been wondering what all the hoopla on social media was all about. So, we refer you to Zach’s first story on … ContinuedThe post Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France
Bell & Ross releases a new watch with the famous acrobatic unit Patrouille de France. Introducing the new BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France.
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BIGGEST Watch Regrets !
SJX Watches
Highlights: Chronographs at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Having already covered highlights in two categories – independent watchmaking and interesting complications – in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now focus on a crowd favourite when it comes to complications, the chronograph. We look at eight chronographs that stand out in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. They range from an esoteric Patek Philippe made for an English football club owned by a Thai duty-free shopping magnate to and a fine specimen of the mythical Omega Speedmaster “MIR-90 90 Days” that spent three months on the Russian space station. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A-011 made in 2016 to commemorate Leicester City becoming Premier League champions for the first time Lot 813: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, first-generation “Meter” dial Since its introduction in 1999 as Lange’s first chronograph, the Datograph is of the German brand’s most iconic timepieces. Even independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour famously fawns over the movement – he owns an example in rose gold – that is a masterpiece of impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. This example is a first-generation model with a 39 mm platinum case and a glossy black dial, arguably the quintessential Datograph. Keen-eyed collectors will notice “METER” on the tachymeter scale, indicating this is one of the earliest examples of the model. The warranty confirms that with a 2001 purchase date. Lange began usin...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1987 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, A 1977 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, And A 1950s Universal Genève Polerouter
Watch your p-words around non-watch friends and family this holiday season!
Revolution
Talking with Guillaume Laidet about the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster ‘No Barracuda’
On a trip to Paris, Wei met with Guillaume Laidet, the architect of recently revived vintage darling, Nivada Grenchen to talk about our first collaboration – a fully black Depthmaster with unique dial markers that resemble the video game character Pac-Man. The original Depthmaster was incredibly well made and depth-rated to 1,000m and our watch […]
SJX Watches
Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...
Deployant
Review: The New Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB3 SPC
Ferdinand Berthoud presents the third chapter of its story in the form of the new FB3 SPC chronometer-certified watch, featuring a cylindrical hairspring.
Video
A Killer Minimalist Watch from Oris - James Morrison Academy of Music Limited Edition Review
Time+Tide
Does the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck 传承 offer the most hypnotising dial of the year?
After the wildly successful launch of Atelier Wen’s first batch of their handmade guilloché-dialled Perception, the brand is collaborating with Austen Chu of Wristcheck and @horoloupe fame. Cased in a grade 5 titanium case and sporting a gorgeous jade green dial, the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck edition carries the “传承” name, which stands for “New … ContinuedThe post Does the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck 传承 offer the most hypnotising dial of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Second Opinions: Modern Women's Watches Aren't Cutting It. These Vintage Omegas Show What's Possible
In the 1970s and '80s, a string of Omega De Ville releases took women's watch design to new heights. Here's why they were so groovy – and what watchmakers can learn from them today.
Hodinkee
Entry Level: A Quick Coast-To-Coast Trip With Tutima's Most Affordable Offering
The Tutima M2 Coastline nods to the brand's military ties with a modern titanium field watch.
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Cate Blanchett And A Vintage Gold Rolex Conduct The Orchestra In 'Tár'
Our watch-related movie of the week requires some horological investigation.
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Doppel 38
Habring² has scaled down its signature split-seconds chronograph to create the Doppel 38, which retains all of the key features of the original but in a more compact case. Still having the “bullhead” pusher layout that characterises the split-seconds chronographs of Habring², the Doppel 38 is smaller and thinner than its predecessor, but continues to be powered by the proprietary hand-wound A11R calibre. Initial thoughts Long one of the best values in terms of sub-US$10,000 chronographs, the Doppel is perhaps the archetypal Habring² watch since it’s descended from the complication Mr Habring invented at IWC three decades ago. Now vastly improved and refined by Mr Habring, the Doppel possibly the most accessible split-seconds chronograph on the market – in itself a major point of appeal. But the original Doppel was 42 mm, not massive but large enough to make someone who prefers smaller watches think twice. Personally I thought the larger Doppel was sized well for its particular type of complication, but the Doppel 38 is unexpectedly compact, especially at just 11.5 mm high. Beyond making it more wearable for more people, the new dimensions will no doubt give the Doppel 38 a slightly more retro feel, although the dial styles on offer are thoroughly modern. And it remains affordable as such things go, with a retail price of about US$7,900 before taxes. A value-proposition split-seconds Like many of the recent watches from the brand, the Doppel 38 is simple in sty...
Video
My Watch Story: A Brawl and A Seiko by Lucas Borba Cravo
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction
With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...
Deployant
New: Grand Seiko Asaborake SBGY011
Presenting a new GS44 inspired watch featuring the design language first surfaced in 1967: the Asaborake SBGY011 hand wound Spring Drive Grand Seiko.
Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet raise $1.1m for charity with the Royal Oak “One Drop”
Charity auctions can often be some of the watch world’s most exciting events, as brands stretch their creativity for one-off watches that are instantly collectible. Audemars Piguet certainly delivered at the La Cuvée One Drop 2022 event with their Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph “One Drop” raising US$1.1m. Hosted in Las Vegas, the proceeds go towards … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet raise $1.1m for charity with the Royal Oak “One Drop” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Custom Regulation with the Sensoriel
De Bethune’s latest invention aims to customise the regulation of a mechanical watch to suit the individual owner. Dubbed the Sensoriel Chronometry Project, it takes the form of a electronic wrist instrument that measures the wearer’s activities and environmental conditions over a two week period – gathering two million data points per hour according to the brand. With this voluminous quantity of data, De Bethune will then regulate a DB28GS Grand Bleu sports watch specifically for the particular owner, optimising timekeeping based on the wearer’s activities. [Updated to include response from Denis Flageollet.] Initial thoughts On paper the Sensoriel is interesting and impressive, but on reflection it raises several questions. For one, the two million data points recorded per hour – for a two-week period – results in an extraordinary amount of information on the wearer’s activities. Can any mechanical watch be regulated to a fine enough resolution that makes even a fraction of that data useful? My knowledge of watchmaking is certainly inexpert but I am sceptical. Mr Flageollet points out De Bethune utilises an algorithm to process the data and sieve out the “elements specific to the wearer, in a way to bring out a specific chronometric DNA for each wearer”, allowing the watch to be regulated according to a smaller number of data points. The second salient point is more philosophical. Historically the pursuit of chronometry meant good timekeeping regardless...
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: The Omega Seamaster 300 Masterfully Blends Vintage Charm And New Tech
A breezy-looking watch that packs plenty of power.
Video
The feel-good watch of the year? The uplifting power of the Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Ventura L 14K Gold Limited Edition
If we’re being honest, most watch brands wouldn’t get away with releasing a watch like the Ventura today. It’s unashamedly weird, full of retro-futuristic quirks that wouldn’t look out of place on the wrist of George Jetson, and most of the references carry a taboo quartz movement. But Hamilton are not most brands. Although the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Ventura L 14K Gold Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In Conversation with Bernhard Lederer, A Master of Escapements
Paying a visit to Bernhard Lederer’s atelier in St. Blaise, Wei nerds out with the German Master Watchmaker about a crucial component in a watch’s movement, the escapement, which has undergone hundreds of years of innovation. Lederer expounds on the efforts by past masters, Abraham-Louis Breguet and George Daniels to develop the perfect escapement and […]
Time+Tide
The astounding history of Waldan Watches unfolds like a Hollywood movie
There’s a lesser-known history behind the Waldan name, one that touches on many remarkable moments in the history of the watch industry.The post The astounding history of Waldan Watches unfolds like a Hollywood movie appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Black and Gold Capsule collection
Everyone loves black and gold as a colour combination, whether it’s the halls of a glamorous art deco building, a fashionable outfit, or a tastefully detailed watch. The mix of that precious yellow lustre with the ultimate darkness evokes a feeling of sultry class and luxury. Although there are plenty of watches with black and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Black and Gold Capsule collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction
Despite being over 50 years old, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has never ceased to be a thought provoker. Even though the signature octagonal design has well and truly been accepted into the collective consciousness of watch design, having thousands of copies and homages, there are still so many mysteries surrounding how the physical object … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video