Revolution
Watch Design: The Spirit of Integration
The integrated bracelet watch has become an icon, one that emerged from the ’70s as a response to a design-centric world. Or did it?
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Revolution
The integrated bracelet watch has become an icon, one that emerged from the ’70s as a response to a design-centric world. Or did it?
Quill & Pad
As SIHH rebrands to become Watches & Wonders Geneva, it becomes apparent that the trade fairs are morphing into something new and perhaps unexpected. Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the latest from SIHH and Baselworld.
SJX Watches
IWC’s latest limited edition is a surprisingly small run – 80 pieces to mark the 80th anniversary of the flight of the giant Latécoère 521 flying boat Lieutenant de Vaisseau Paris from New York to Lac de Biscarrosse in Southwestern France. Starting on Bastille Day, July 14, in 1939, the flight was the first nonstop crossing of the North Atlantic by flying boat. A passenger on the 28-hour, 27-minute journey was French aviator Antoine de Saint Exupéry. And it happens that one of IWC’s most popular sub-collections of pilot’s watches watches is Le Petit Prince, named after the famous novel by de Saint Exupéry. So the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph Edition “80 Years Flight to New York” is an offshoot of the Le Petit Prince collection, with a few tweaks. It retains the vaguely retro flavour, with Gothic-esque numerals and lozenge hands, but instead of the standard blue dial of Le Petit Prince, the anniversary watch has a brown metallic dial, matched with brown ceramic bezel. The edition is based on the Timezoner Chronograph, usually available only in the standard black and white livery of IWC’s basic Pilot’s Watches. It’s an unusual watch that combines both a flyback chronograph and IWC’s proprietary “timezoner” mechanism. Originally developed by the defunct watch brand Vogard, the timezoner mechanism has a rotating world time bezel linked to the second time zone, so turning the bezel moves the 24-hour hand in one-hour ste...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: From a purely real estate perspective, the dial is the most important part of the watch. It’s what you look at most of the time, and it’s the functional heart and soul of the watch. And while I’m willing to admit that other parts of the watch might play a role, let’s roll … ContinuedThe post Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A unique, precious El Primero to celebrate the watch's 50th anniversary.
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Hodinkee
And a special friendship formed during the Cold War.
SJX Watches
A simple yet unusual chiming complication, the hourstriker has been a fixture in the Ulysse Nardin line-up for almost three decades, starting with the San Marco Jacquemart developed by Christophe Claret. The hour striker complication has been paired with various automatons over the years, including tigers, horses, oil pumpjacks, and a copulating couple. Now Ulysse Nardin has stripped away the automaton, streamlined the design, and reworked the acoustics – with help from French speaker specialist Devialet – resulting in the Hourstriker Phantom. It’s the brand’s sleekest and most contemporary hour striker to date, and according to Ulysse Nardin, the loudest chiming wristwatch in the world. High-end audio help Founded in 2007 by a trio of Frenchmen, who named the company after 18th century French engineer Guillaume Vialet, Devialet is most famous for its white, egg-shaped Phantom Premier speaker that is compact, powerful and fairly expensive. Most notably, one of its founders, designers Emmanuel Nardin, is a member of the Nardin family that once owned Ulysse Nardin. The Devialet Gold Phantom Opéra de Paris speaker Devialet’s contribution to the Hourstriker Phantom was to boost its sound, accomplished in two ways. The first element being the attachment of the gongs to the movement. In an ordinary striking watch, the gongs are fixed with screws. On the other hand, the Hourstriker Phantom has its gongs secured by “torsion arms”, presumably small springs. A...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard has been around for some 90 years, but for much of that time the brand produced watches for other labels. A decade ago, shortly after new owners took over, Louis Erard began to move slightly upmarket with mechanical watches featuring proprietary modules. But most of its designs were plain or derivative. And so Louis Erard could have been just another brand making mostly anonymous looking watches. But recently Louis Erard recruited the talented Manuel Emch – best known for reviving Jaquet Droz and then running RJ-Romain Jerome until 2017 – as an advisor and suddenly things have brightened up – literally. Louis Erard has just announced the Alain Silberstein Regulator, a surprisingly affordable wristwatch created by the watch designer famed for his whimsical, Bauhaus-inspired style – captured here in photos taken by a Swiss collector for SJX (scroll to the bottom to read my thoughts on the watch after seeing them shortly after this was published). Since Mr Silberstein’s eponymous company went bust in 2012, he has created watches for MB&F; and RJ-Romain Jerome. Despite the diversity of the brands he has worked with, Mr Silberstein versatile yet distinctive style manages to ease into each brand’s house style. Illustrating the magic of Mr Silberstein’s creativity, the new watch is based on one of Louis Erard’s signature models, the Excellence Regulator, which is ordinarily available with a grained or guilloche silver dial featuring Roman numera...
Quill & Pad
The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2019's rules state that this category is for watches only "linked" to the world of diving, but rightly or wrongly our panel is looking for serious diver's watches. These are watches you are most likely to see on wrists, though perhaps not underwater. And the panel is seriously split. What do you think?
Hodinkee
The latest Ulysse Nardin hour striking watch: loud and proud.
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Time+Tide
Nicholas Foulkes is an author, journalist and perhaps the closest thing the 21st century has to a genuine flâneur. He’s also deeply entrenched in the finer workings of the finer elements of the Swiss watch industry, so when he writes, it’s worth reading. His latest column in the Financial Times’ excellently titled ‘How to Spend … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How independent watchmakers are changing the game appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Greubel Forsey takes traditional watchmaking to an unprecendented new summit with the debut of the Hand Made 1, a watch that is 95 per cent made by hand.
Time+Tide
The argument could quite easily be made that most watch manufacturers in attendance at this year’s Baselworld watch fair tended to err on the side of caution when it came to releasing new timepieces. However, Seiko certainly bucked this trend, unveiling quite a few new and exciting timepieces, and surprising the collective horological community with … ContinuedThe post Get to the boutique! The Seiko SNJ025 Solar ‘Arnie’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in pink gold.
SJX Watches
The Hand Made 1 is a watch “95%” produced “using only hand-operated tools”, requiring some 6,000 hours, according to Greubel Forsey. That’s equivalent to three years of work, largely performed by a special team of watchmakers assembled by Greubel Forsey specifically for this project, along with independent specialists who produce certain components. Functionally, the Hand Made 1 is a straightforward timepiece – it shows the time, hours, minutes and seconds, and is equipped with a one-tourbillon regulator. The movement is made up of 272 parts, which is within the usual range for such a movement. The complexity of the watch comes from how it is made – by hand or by hand-operated tools – which is why only two to three examples will be produced per year. The genesis for the Hand Made 1 is the department within Greubel Forsey that produces prototypes, which are essentially one-off, hand-made watches. The same production techniques are applied to the Hand Made 1, except that they are taken to a far higher level, in order to create components that are produced with the same techniques as prototypes but to the same fit and finish as standard Greubel Forsey movements. So each screw is made on a manual lathe, and can take up to eight hours to complete. The case components are milled on a pantograph lathe, essentially a manually operated CNC machine that requires the operator to guide the cutting tool to by hand. And even the balance spring is rolled by a manua...
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SJX Watches
Located around the corner from its old premises, the Omega Museum has just reopened within La Cité du Temps – “The City of Time” – an impressive glass and wood building designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, who has worked with the brand on several projects, including its new factory. Connected to the new Swatch brand headquarters via an aerial bridge, La Cité du Temps sits just behind Omega’s main building in Biel, a city about 90 minutes from Zurich by train. Appropriately, it is on a street named after Nicolas G. Hayek, founder of the Swatch Group, the Swiss watchmaking conglomerate that’s Omega’s parent company. La Cite du Temps, the horizontal building in the middle La Cite du Temps at right While the original museum was opened in 1983, making it the oldest watch brand museum in the world, the new museum sits on the second level of the five-story La Cité du Temps, with the Swatch Museum one floor above and another floor dedicated to temporary exhibitions. The new premises give the Omega Museum an expansive space to detail the watchmaker’s long and diverse history on a scale that was impossible in the museum’s former home, which it shared with the company canteen. The 64-window display that’s built like the links of a steel watch bracelet Each of the key themes in Omega history are captured in comprehensive exhibits, including being the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games, the Speedmaster Professional and the Moon landing – ...
Time+Tide
We knew it was coming. To paraphrase former PM Paul Keating, this is the upgrade we had to have. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph. But before we dive into (sorry, can’t help it) what makes this watch special, a quick update for those not up to date with the news from Biel. Last year, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Omega hit another home run with the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In this week's Throwback Sundays, we celebrate the tastebreakers by sharing six watch recommendations that are overlooked by the masses.
Quill & Pad
The Swatch Tresor Magique might have a platinum case, but it looks like something Harry Potter would have appreciated wearing while attending classes at Hogwarts. However, there is more that is even notable about this watch, which Martin Green divulges here.
Time+Tide
Fifty years ago, Seiko released one of the first ever automatic chronograph movements in a watershed moment in watchmaking. To mark the occasion, Seiko has released the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J, a watch that smartly dances the line between heritage and modern. We got a chance to take a closer look at the … ContinuedThe post Celebrating half a century with the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Felix spends some quality time with the Omega Speedmaster CK 2998.The post Spending some quality time with the Omega Speedmaster CK 2998 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I know, it’s a horrible prospect, and one that we don’t really want to seriously consider, but you know what, it makes an excellent proposition for a hypothetical, something that flies around the office a fair bit. Only this time, I took some notes … Nick’s choice – Cartier Why? Cartier looks good in any … ContinuedThe post What we’d wear if we could wear only one watch brand for the rest of our lives … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Seiko’s limited editions are pretty legendary, and for good reason. Some of the most coveted are those in the sporty Prospex line. Like this Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K … The story in a second: Same great watch, brand new dial. The centrepiece of Seiko’s 2018 Prospex collection is, without doubt, the … ContinuedThe post Battle for the blue with the Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Five panelists, three to four predicted winners, and a possible Aiguille d’Or winner: the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Mechanical Exception category has it all, including an atomic clock and another time indication that is likely to make you think you have taken LSD!
Time+Tide
There are few things that high-end watch brands love more than a certification of quality. Some, like COSC, are industry-wide standards, while others (much like the movement) are strictly an in-house affair. The Patek Philippe Seal is one such certification. The new Patek Philippe Seal dramatically transcends the original hallmark’s notion of quality and perfection. … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Just what is the Patek Philippe Seal? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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