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Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Apr 2, 2022

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.

VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man Time+Tide
IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr Apr 2, 2022

VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man

“Look how fast Chris Grainger-Herr walks!” Andrew exclaims at one point in this video as he follows the IWC boss into his booth. It’s a throwaway line but it’s actually instructive, because Chris would appear to be the watch world’s most energetic man. His exploits yesterday offer the perfect example. One moment he’s casually welcoming … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Krug Champagne: A Story Of Krugists Earning Five Cases Per Year Every Year For The Rest Of One’s Life And Wine Tasting Like “. . . Angels Have Descended From Heaven” – Reprise Quill & Pad
Apr 2, 2022

Krug Champagne: A Story Of Krugists Earning Five Cases Per Year Every Year For The Rest Of One’s Life And Wine Tasting Like “. . . Angels Have Descended From Heaven” – Reprise

Anyone who expresses even so much as a fleeting interest in great wine will soon come across Krug, for many the greatest champagne of all. There are champagne lovers and then there are devotees of Krug: Krugists. Ken Gargett doubts that any other champagne, or wine, has a word to designate its adoring fans. Here he explains why.

VIDEO: The return of the 222 – our first take on Vacheron Constantin’s new releases Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin s new releases Apr 1, 2022

VIDEO: The return of the 222 – our first take on Vacheron Constantin’s new releases

In this video, Jeremy and Zach take a look at Vacheron Constantin‘s new releases and one of the immediate highlights: the Historiques 222. You might remember this story from last year where a Time+Tide reader spoke to us  about finding a Vacheron Constantin 222 in his sock drawer that turned out to be worth a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The return of the 222 – our first take on Vacheron Constantin’s new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS – Parmigiani dazzles with a ground-breaking GMT complication Time+Tide
Apr 1, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS – Parmigiani dazzles with a ground-breaking GMT complication

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS – Parmigiani dazzles with a ground-breaking GMT complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 31, 2022

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR

One of the biggest surprises from Rolex at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR – the first contemporary, regular-production Rolex with a left-handed or “destro” crown. And just to make it even more different, it is equipped with the brand’s first-ever green-and-black bezel. Initial thoughts A brand that has preserved the signature style of watches for decades, Rolex is all about incremental improvements that are often evident only in the details. That’s exactly the case with the new GMT-Master II, which retains the trademark GMT aesthetic but is rather different. In fact, it is very different, which makes it polarising – you either like it or you don’t. Initially the left-handed crown does look awkward on the left wrist; it feels off somehow. But very quickly you get used to it and it is surprisingly cool. The new ref. 126710VTNR is priced about US$550 more than its counterparts with a conventionally located crown. According to Rolex, the price difference does not result from the rejigged crown position but rather the changes to the testing equipment necessary to accommodate the new crown position. Destro Most obvious is the crown at nine o’clock, which is accompanied by a repositioned date window. It is ostensibly for the left-handed, but will surely find fans amongst right-handers who want something unusual. It is intriguing, just because it’s so different from the rest of the brand’s offering (though Rolex’s sister compan...

VIDEO: The slinky brilliance of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra – the thinnest mechanical watch of all time Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra – Mar 31, 2022

VIDEO: The slinky brilliance of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra – the thinnest mechanical watch of all time

You’ve probably seen by now that the watch that keeps breaking records has just broken another, becoming the indisputably thinnest mechanical watch of all time. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra is the logical successor to that title considering Bulgari’s train of innovation, but the most exciting prospect is that they don’t seem to be settling … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The slinky brilliance of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra – the thinnest mechanical watch of all time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Bark & Jack, Bamford and Andrew meet in the metal for the first time! Time+Tide
Mar 31, 2022

VIDEO: Bark & Jack, Bamford and Andrew meet in the metal for the first time!

It’s Watches & Wonders week baby! The Time+Tide team is on the ground bringing you coverage of all the new releases. But we’re also getting to see old friends after two years of digital presentations as well as meeting some for the first time. After several negroni-filled Zoom Meetings and the odd collaboration, the long … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Bark & Jack, Bamford and Andrew meet in the metal for the first time! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms Time+Tide
Doxa Whitepearl expands into multiple Mar 31, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms

Following the resounding success of the entry-level SUB 200 Whitepearl colourway, DOXA applies a lick of fresh white paint across its model range. Spanning five different models, the white colour departs from the usual neon we’ve grown accustomed to from DOXA, for a more classic, yet ever-legible, look. SUB 300 Carbon COSC Whitepearl A 42.5mm … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton

A hidden gem amongst Vacheron Constantin’s sports watches, the Overseas Tourbillon is thin, understated, and good value as such things go. Now it receives a thorough makeover. Gone is the dial and excess metal from the bridges, creating the new Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton. Available in two metals, the titanium variant is particularly intriguing as it’s a metal that is rarely used by the haute horlogerie watchmaker. Titanium with blue accents Initial thoughts Though polar opposites aesthetically, the Skeleton is every bit as handsome as the standard Overseas Tourbillon. In terms of finishing, aesthetics and watchmaking, the Tourbillon Skeleton is top of its class not only in the luxury-sports category but even among the brand’s other offerings. A reason for this is the well proportioned case that measures 42.5 mm wide and only 10.39 mm tall. This results in elegant, flat-and-wide proportions that defines the most desirable luxury sports watches. These proportions gives the watch a sporty aesthetic that is further enhanced by the blackened, skeletonised movement. In comparison, the base Overseas model is smaller in diameter but slightly thicker.   It’s also thinner than a open-worked Royal Oak and Laureato tourbillon The movement within is notable for balancing simplicity and complexity, which tends to be a challenge for skeletonised movements. In comparison, I find the latest Royal Oak Openworked Tourbillon too nuanced and the GP Laureato Openworked Tourbillon t...

Grand Seiko Reveals the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Reveals Mar 30, 2022

Grand Seiko Reveals the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Unveiled in 2020, the Grand Seiko T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon was a surprisingly complicated movement from a watchmaker that has historically focused on no-nonsense, everyday watches. In interview with us last year, Seiko chief executive Akio Naito promised not to “keep people waiting for too long” and he has kept to his promise. Just two years after the T0 concept was revealed, its commercially available counterpart  version has arrived in the form of the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003. With a case that’s a mix of platinum and titanium, the SLGT003 has a movement that’s slightly different from the T0 concept. Its cal. 9ST1 retains the all-important constant-force mechanism integrated into the tourbillon cage, though the movement overall has been trimmed down slightly in both size and artistic expression – though it still has an aesthetic that is extreme by Grand Seiko standards. Initial thoughts The SLGT003 is a lot of watch: a skeletonised movement combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism accompanied by a dead-beat seconds. And it also has twin barrels and a power reserve indicator. The SLGT003 is intriguing and impressive is to say the least. The amalgamation of several complications perfectly showcase the brand’s newfound prowess in complicated watchmaking, elevating the brand to another level entirely, one comparable with independent watchmakers. And it also marks a milestone for a watchmaker from Asia. But the design is over th...

TAG Heuer puts the novel in novelty with new tourbillon chronograph cased in diamond-set aluminum Time+Tide
TAG Heuer puts Mar 30, 2022

TAG Heuer puts the novel in novelty with new tourbillon chronograph cased in diamond-set aluminum

Novelty. It is a term utilised by watch manufacturers across the board in regard to their new releases for a given period or year. But the definition of the word novelty is “the quality of being new, original, or unusual”, and, if we are being honest, more often than not we find brands introducing the … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer puts the novel in novelty with new tourbillon chronograph cased in diamond-set aluminum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Rolex drops some big surprises amongst its novelties for 2022 Time+Tide
Rolex drops some big surprises Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Rolex drops some big surprises amongst its novelties for 2022

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Rolex drops some big surprises amongst its novelties for 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Tudor collection overview Time+Tide
Tudor collection overview Editor’s Note Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Tudor collection overview

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Tudor collection overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: IWC reveal two new Top Gun Chronographs in “Lake Tahoe White” & “Woodland Green” ceramic Time+Tide
IWC reveal two new Top Mar 30, 2022

HANDS-ON: IWC reveal two new Top Gun Chronographs in “Lake Tahoe White” & “Woodland Green” ceramic

Top Gun editions have been a staple of IWC’s catalogue since 2007. Over the years, the collection has become a space of exploration for the brand – utilising advanced materials such as ceramic to push the boundaries of what it means to be a top-notch pilot’s watch. Many of these designs leveraged the stealth appeal … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: IWC reveal two new Top Gun Chronographs in “Lake Tahoe White” & “Woodland Green” ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Vacheron Constantin 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Vacheron Constantin 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Vacheron Constantin 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Pro SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Pro

Tudor finally introduces a more compact GMT watch with the Black Bay Pro, which is 39 mm and equipped with a fixed bezel. With slightly retro styling, the Black Bay Pro nonetheless has all the features that characterise Tudor, including a proprietary movement with a silicon hairspring as well as the newly-developed T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Pro is what I have been hoping for, a more compact Tudor GMT. It has a 39 mm case just like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the perfect size in my estimation. And it has a true GMT function thanks to the MT5652 inside. It also sports a useful upgrade: the T-Fit clasp that allows for micro-adjustment on the fly, giving this a feature usually found on pricier watches. The aesthetic certainly beings to mind the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which is a good thing (and it was probably designed with a knowing wink). Arguably the only downside is the case thickness. At 14.6 mm high the watch is thick, though not excessively so. It does not feel ungainly on the wrist, although the flat, vertical case sides do accentuate the height. Another only potential downside is the fixed bezel, which means the watch cannot track the third time zone that’s possible on the standard GMT. It’s not a dealbreaker for me since the third time zone functionality is something I never use on a GMT watch. Still, the Black Bay Pro is an impressive value proposition all things considered, and certainly one of the best buys of the fair. F...

WATCHES & WONDERS: Grand Seiko 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Grand Seiko 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Grand Seiko 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Jaeger-LeCoultre go star-gazing with the Stellar Odyssey collection Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre go star-gazing Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Jaeger-LeCoultre go star-gazing with the Stellar Odyssey collection

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Jaeger-LeCoultre go star-gazing with the Stellar Odyssey collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS – Zenith maintain their momentum with a bumper crop of new releases Time+Tide
Zenith maintain their momentum Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS – Zenith maintain their momentum with a bumper crop of new releases

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS – Zenith maintain their momentum with a bumper crop of new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Titanium SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 30, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Titanium

Debuted three years ago, the Odysseus is still a one-model collection with the Datomatic, though versions in different metals are steadily added to the family. And the latest is the most intriguing to date, because the Odysseus is entirely clad in titanium, marking a first for the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts The expansion rate of the Odysseus collection is surprisingly slow given most of its peers have quickly added complicated models such as a chronograph rather soon. But thankfully the Odysseus titanium is an interesting addition, despite being simply the result of a change in the material. It is indeed the material that distinguishes the latest, not just from its counterparts but also from the competitors. A natural choice for sports watches, titanium is nevertheless uncommon amongst luxury sports watches, especially when combined with Lange’s peerless finishing. And Lange certainly knows it’s special, because it is the first limited-edition Odysseus, ever. It’s also the priciest, costing about 40% more than the white gold model, which is exorbitant to say the least – and slightly opportunistic – but demand will doubtlessly outstrip supply. Titanium and more While the use of titanium is intruiguing, that alone is certainly not enough to make for a compelling Odysseus, just because Lange has set a high bar for watchmaking. And it doesn’t disappoint. On top of being end-to-end titanium, the finishing on the case and bracelet is also entirely different....

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon”

Vacheron Constantin opens its doors at Watches & Wonders 2022 with diversity of timepieces ranging from the sporty to artisanal, but its most classical offering is the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in a fashionable “salmon”. With the model having been launched over a decade ago and then gently upgraded in 2016, the new version is merely a facelift. But still it’s noteworthy for combining a platinum case with a “salmon” dial, both currently desirable attributes, which should help make this a strong seller (which also explains why it will only be available at boutiques). Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Traditionnelle is the dial – the only element that’s different compared to the original launched six years ago. Though less intriguing because it’s popular and common today, the new dial is nevertheless a good move that gives the model a new lease of life. While the rest of the watch apart from the dial isn’t new, it does have several features that make it stand out, most obviously the large, 43 mm case with a flat, wide bezel, a bold look for a relatively classical watch. While the large diameter does improve the legibility of the complex dial, it will not appeal to traditionalists who favour smaller cases. But the movement will certainly appeal to traditionalists. The cal. 1142 QP, which is based on the Lemania 2310, was long the movement of choice in a variety of old-school classics such as the Patek Philippe ref. 5970. Vacheron ...