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Time+Tide
Plush sofas, VC-branded knick-knacks, and Holy Trinity watches galore.The post Vacheron Constantin officially reopens Melbourne boutique, opening up the beautiful heritage-listed space appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I need gold. My watch collection lacks precious metal, so with that in mind, I started looking for gold watches on a budget of €5K. Please enjoy my gold choices from Audemars Piguet, IWC, and Minerva. And yes, my colleagues told me I cheated by choosing the steel-cased Minerva, but I responded that the gold […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Lex’s Gold Picks From Audemars Piguet, IWC, And Minerva to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A mechanical watch is not always spot on; less-than-perfect timekeeping can happen, often due to an unruly oscillator. The solution is direct adjustments to the hairspring and balance assembly, either slowing down or speeding up the oscillator, a practice known as regulation. Watchmakers have devised multiple innovations to achieve this, including the free-sprung balance, exemplified by the Gyromax of Patek Philippe and Microstella of Rolex. While a simple concept in principle, the mechanics and practice of regulation are nuanced. Here we’ll delve into the theory of regulation and the primary regulating systems: the curb-pin regulator and the free-sprung (or variable inertia) balance. The Lange L043.4 with a screwed balance inspired by pocket watches Basic concepts In order to better understand watch regulation, we need to first cover some of the basic physics behind the watch oscillator: The component responsible for the running rate of a movement is its regulating organ. The regulating organ is made up of a hairspring paired to a balance, which together are also known as a harmonic oscillator. The natural oscillation period is the time it takes the balance to make a full swing, back and forth. The period is made up of two vibrations, one for each direction of the balance motion, with the escapement being unlocked at each vibration. Notably, the natural period of a balance wheel is intrinsic to itself and does not depend on the escapement type or the going train ratio. ...
Fratello
Ask a random watch enthusiast about the great diving watches in history, and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms will be on the tip of many tongues. In 2023, Blancpain celebrated the 70th anniversary of its legendary Fifty Fathoms in three acts. With a trio of completely different releases, the brand gave us a good idea of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV to read the full article.
![[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Revival Diver](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/02/Zenith-Heritage-Diver-Griffin-B-22.jpg)
Worn & Wound
For most of my watch-buying life, fun dive watches have mostly been big dive watches. Colorful, loud, capable waterproof options have tended to correspond with case dimensions of equal impact and presence, while the sub-40mm dive watch space has belonged to relatively sedate interpretations of the classic dive watch formula - and even then, 39mm has been the sweet spot for ‘small’ divers. But over the last few release cycles (if those even exist anymore), we’ve started to see signs of a shift, and I can think of few better examples of this change than the Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648, released last year as part of Zenith’s grand re-entry into the dive space. Last summer, I got to spend a few weeks with the Zenith Defy Revival Diver’s bigger, brasher brother, the Defy Extreme Diver, and I came away wildly impressed. The Defy Extreme Diver was a watch that punched way above its weight class (or at least its price point) while feeling like a genuinely novel take on a modern dive watch from a brand with shockingly little history in the space. So when I had the chance to spend some time with that watch’s vintage-inspired counterpart, I jumped. This extended visit with the Revival Diver wasn’t my first hands-on experience with the watch - I got to spend a few minutes with it when I went to pick up the Extreme Diver back in June - but on that day, I didn’t find myself particularly taken with the Revival. While I’ve long admired Zenith’s dual identity...
Monochrome
You thought you knew everything from Seiko’s immensely versatile archive? Well, think again, as this new King Seiko VANAC collection is a straight blast from the past that probably few saw coming! Based on just one of many designs that were part of the original Vanac models, first up is a set of five new […]
Monochrome
About a year ago, a new micro-brand launched on the scene and caused quite some noise due to its oddly shaped, slightly overdesigned but rather appealing triangular watch, the Anoma A1 Watch. The project of a young French-British watch enthusiast, Matteo Violet Vianello, the watch made a sensation with a sculptural case playing on the […]
SJX Watches
Having made its debut last summer, London-based Anoma returns with the A1 Slate, an entry level watch that punches above its weight in terms of design. Inspired by a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French designer Charlotte Perriand, the A1 Slate executes the mid-century aesthetic with aplomb. Over the past few years we’ve seen a number of unusually shaped watches come to market, perhaps as a cultural reaction to the proliferation of classical designs that otherwise dominate. Among these, the Anoma A1 stands out for its commitment to value and its undiluted form. Initial thoughts When the Anoma A1 debuted with the First Series, my first reaction was that it was simply a triangular watch. Closer examination revealed a number of intriguing details, like the offset rotation of the crystal relative to the case. The A1 Slate takes things up a notch, with an attractive grooved dial that brings the design to life. The A1 is all about its triangular stainless steel case, which is roughly 39 mm in diameter. The curved edges call to mind a Wankel rotory engine, and give the watch a pebble-like presence. A slim leather strap fits into hidden lugs, allowing the watch’s shape to remain undiluted. Like its predecessor, the A1 Slate is powered by the Sellita SW100, a diminutive automatic movement that was chosen for its ability to fit within the compact triangular case. The movement is common and industrial, which should give potential buyers confidence in its ability to be...
Deployant
We had a loaner of the new Citizen Attesa Eco-Drive Satellite Wave GPS for a couple of weeks, and here is our hands-on review of the watch.
Time+Tide
Anoma brings its second-ever watch to market, with a new dark grey dial colour, small changes to the case and an increase price.The post Anoma updates its shaped A1 with a new Slate dial, and we got our hands on it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A blue-tinted sapphire dial, luminous rubber strap and thin proportions make this elevated dive watch an attractive beast.The post Christopher Ward’s azure C60 Sapphire Edge cuts a slim and stylish figure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Blancpain‘s long-standing ties to diving need little introduction. For over 20 years, the brand has been committed to raising awareness of the need to protect our oceans through the Blancpain Ocean Commitment (BOC) program. The latest BOC initiative is a limited series of 100 watches, the Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV, a more compact and […]
Time+Tide
A contemporary, limited-edition take on the Fifty Fathoms formula that supports ocean conservation efforts? Sign me up.The post Blancpain’s sporty new Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV supports a good cause in style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Vanac name may not ring a bell for anyone but the most hardcore King Seiko enthusiasts, but that did not stop Seiko from reissuing the watch in a new guise. Today, we see the introduction of the King Seiko Vanac SLA087 in purple/gold and the SLA083 in white/gold. As you can see from the […] Visit Introducing: The King Seiko Vanac SLA087 And SLA083 to read the full article.
Fratello
If only watches could tell stories… This particular watch, a Rolex GMT-Master 1675 from 1968, would have a multitude of stories to share. The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675 we’re looking at today belonged to the late New Zealand photojournalist and camera operator Derek McKendry, who spent eight years covering the Vietnam War for the Australian […] Visit War Correspondent’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 Surfaces In New Zealand to read the full article.
Monochrome
Last year, Seiko updated one of its best-selling models, the classic, rather compact and vintage-inspired Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver, releasing a new collection with improved mechanics, reduced dimensions, upgraded water-resistance and a new bracelet – all the evolutions can be explored in this in-depth video. As you know, this watch is a modern recreation of […]
Time+Tide
Titanium monobloc case, awesome dial design, and a Grand Seiko-derived movement.The post The new Seiko Marinemaster Professional SLA081 is a hardcore, GS-powered monster tributing the very first Seiko diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
This year, Seiko celebrates the 60th anniversary of one of its most important timepieces, its first dive watch, the 62MAS. While some would have expected the brand to come with yet another vintage-inspired re-creation of this historic model – it might come later this year – for now, we have a trio of new models. […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko is releasing a new Vanac collection this week, and with it, a new automatic movement. The Vanac made its first appearance in the King Seiko catalog back in 1972, complete with all the funky design details you’d expect of a watch of this era. A large, prism-like case with flat surfaces, faceted crystals, and highly dynamic dial textures and colors left a big impression, and that’s exactly what Seiko is looking to recapture in modern guise with the new King Seiko Vanac. It’s not a re-issue, but it is a throwback, and one that will look to set a modern foundation, and if it’s anything like its predecessor, we can look forward to plenty of variety to come. The original Vanac was short lived, but its flame burned brightly, with a wide range of references released, most of which featured bright dials and integrated bracelet designs. Seiko says that the original meaning of the word "Vanac" has been lost to time, so they’ve come up with a modern acronym to suit the modern personality of the new collection: Vibrant; Active; Novel; Alternative; and Comfortable. The message Seiko is trying to convey with this watch is one of innovation, and breaking barriers, and the brand views buyers of this watch as trailblazers and visionary types. Make of that what you will. The new Vanac picks up where the original left off, with a sharp, angular case boasting large flat surfaces that transition between brushed and polished finishes. This is set to an integrated bracelet tha...
SJX Watches
In the 1970s, arguably no watch brand was having more fun than Seiko, which launched the bold King Seiko Vanac collection in 1972. Five decades on, Seiko returns to the concept with the all-new King Seiko Vanac, with bold dial colours and an angular, faceted case inspired by its namesake. Despite an entirely new design – the modern-day Vanac is not a remake – the collection captures the style and spirit of the funky 1970s originals perfectly. Available in five different dial colours, each inspired by the Tokyo skyline at a different time of day, the Vanac also features a new automatic cal. 8L45, now the highest-spec movement for Seiko’s mid tier watches. Initial thoughts The past decade has treated us to more than our fair share of vintage reissues, which by and large have focused on the glorious designs of the 1950s and 1960s. But there are only so many historical designs from this era that a brand can revisit, and as we move into 2025, it’s nice to see a little variety as Seiko looks to the 1970s. And while the Vanac is very much vintage inspired, it isn’t quite a reissue of any particular historical model. Though the bracelet is integrated, the design is different enough from Gerald Genta’s designs that it avoids the common pitfall of looking like it’s trying too hard to look like something else. A selection of vintage Vanac watches The Vanac features a 41 mm case that is quite chunky at 14.3 mm. The case itself is essentially an elongated hexagon, with a ...
Monochrome
In 1965, Seiko entered the race for the best dive watch, much later than the Swiss did. Seiko released its first ever dive watch, known as the 62MAS, the mother of all upcoming aquatic watches of the brand. It’s a story that we’ve told many times on MONOCHROME. What matters most today is that 2025 […]
Time+Tide
Angular, 1970s funk in a new shape for King Seiko.The post The King Seiko VANAC sports a Grand Seiko-derived movement and a funky, angular case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Citizen celebrates the 55th anniversary of their world's-first titanium watch and the launch of the new "Citizen Premier" category.
Worn & Wound
If MING Watches isn’t on your radar, I don’t really know what to tell you. The brand, which has been around since 2017 and was founded by photographer and watch enthusiast Ming Thein (his current job title at the brand, at least according to LinkedIn, is ‘Supreme Overlord’), has stood at the forefront of the small independent movement since the day it launched, and has been a tremendous object lesson in the ability and aspiration of small brands. In the nearly eight years since the brand launched, they’ve made a lot of very cool watches, and possibly cooler than the watches themselves has been the diversity of their offering - diversity in style, functionality, and (notably) price. Now, MING has released its latest marvel, the MING 21.01 ‘Project 21,’ a dream watch for Ming himself and a clear summation of what the brand has been and done up to this point while offering a glimpse into the eponymous founder’s head and maybe even offering some clues as to what will come next for the brand. So what is the Project 21? Well, put simply, it’s a 35mm tantalum-cased dress watch built around a historically significant ultra-thin movement. Factor in a little more nuance, and it’s exceedingly clear that the Project 21 is an experiment in pushing the brand to its limits, just to see where those limits happen to be. The new watch, which will only be available in extraordinarily limited quantities, was inspired by a challenge thrown down at a 2023 collector’s d...
Teddy Baldassarre
Tastes great, less filling. That’s the tagline for a famous light beer, but the same could be said for Doxa’s latest version of its iconic Sub, the 200T. It’s a slimmed-down take on the iconic Doxa Sub diver, and although it features a new case size, this might be the Doxa for people who thought they could never wear the brand, including yours truly. It’s also available in a huge array of colorways, so now there really is something for everyone when it comes to the Doxa Sub. The Doxa brand is certainly among the stars of the classic dive watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional from 1967, along with the black-dialed Sharkhunter version made famous by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, not to mention Robert Redford in Three Days Of The Condor. But today, we’re taking a look at the newest member of the Doxa Sub family, and there’s a lot to like here, not least of which is a lower price point. And although I haven’t been diving in quite some time, I can’t help feeling a little like an undersea explorer whenever I wear the 200T, which is quite often these days. The classic Doxa Sub 300 and 300T have always worn rather well for larger watches, due to that distinctive tonneau case shape and those short lugs, but now, there’s a new version for someone who wants a tool watch that’s a bit less…tool-like. Enter the Doxa Sub 200T, rendered in a just-right size at 39mm. Honestly, it feels li...
Monochrome
Watches, like most products from industrial activities, are ruled by constraints and compromises – whether these are commercial, technological, design-oriented or economical. This is why we, watch enthusiasts, can often be rather disappointed by many new releases. Surely, independent watchmakers playing in a much higher price range can overpass some of these constraints, as a […]
Fratello
In the spring of 2023, Parmigiani Fleurier introduced an all-platinum version of the popular Tonda PF Micro-Rotor. Even the sandblasted dial was platinum, and it had a date window at 6 o’clock. Then, in the spring of 2024, the brand from Fleurier, Switzerland, introduced the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date. The omittance of a date […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor With A Stone Blue Dial And A Full-Platinum Body to read the full article.
Fratello
In 1995, Casio added the DW-6900 model to its G-Shock line, marking an evolution in the design and functionality of digital watches. With its round case, Triple Graph display, and front-mounted light button, the DW-6900 quickly became a favorite among watch enthusiasts and professional users. Its 30th anniversary in 2025 is a good moment to […] Visit Celebrating The G-Shock DW-6900 Triple Graph’s 30th Anniversary With Three New Versions to read the full article.
Monochrome
Squale is often regarded as sort of a hidden gem of the dive watch scene, a brand that speaks mostly to hardcore divers and seasoned aquatic watch enthusiasts. Created by Charles Von Büren in 1959, who also made cases for multiple other companies (military Fifty Fathoms watches, for example), the brand gained fame thanks to […]
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC is a Swiss watch company, founded by an American, whose history is closely tied with Germany. But one of its most enduringly popular timepiece families is called the Portugieser, and it’s likely that lots of enthusiasts and would-be owners don’t even know why - or that the watch itself preceded that now-familiar name by many decades. What's indisputable is the Portugieser's key role in IWC's history and its impact on watchmaking - from its humble origins as a market-specific experiment to its modern incarnation as a major pillar of IWC's collection. 1939: Two Portuguese Businessmen Walk Into a Watch Factory… Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. Actually, don’t bother, because I’ll be retelling the origin story of the IWC Portugieser anyway, for those who aren’t familiar with it. Like much of the rest of the world, in the throes of the Great Depression and under the gathering storm clouds of a second World War, the Swiss watch industry was facing rough economic times in the 1930s. The International Watch Company, based in Schaffhausen in Switzerland’s German-speaking north, dealt with the challenges in a number of practical ways. One was by making wristwatches that could be worn by military pilots for the aerial combat that was looking increasingly inevitable. (I tell that story in much more detail here.) Another was by expanding its reach to international markets such as Portugal. Thus it came to be that two gentlemen by the name of Antonio...
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