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Results for ETA 2892-A2

3,886 articles · 159 videos found · page 77 of 135

Louis Vuitton Returns to the Escale Wristwatch SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Returns Jun 11, 2024

Louis Vuitton Returns to the Escale Wristwatch

Louis Vuitton is steadily rebuilding its watch collecting, reorienting the offerings towards more designs with thoughtful details and decoration. Having already redesigned the Tambour, the brand now debuts the Escale Time-Only Automatic. Returning to a case design that’s been in the Louis Vuitton catalogue for well over the decade, the new Escale is a no-frills three-hander with discreet references to the brand’s trunks incorporated into the aesthetic. Initial thoughts I’ve long been a fan of the Escale case – we covered the Escale Worldtime over a decade ago – because it is simple, distinctive, and wears well. The signature Escale models in the past, however, were world time models with extravagantly multicoloured dials. The aesthetic was typical, over-the-top Louis Vuitton. I liked them, a lot in fact, but they were not for everyone, and certainly not easily legible. The new Escale, on the other hand, is a practical watch that is legible but thoughtfully designed with discreet details that evoke Louis Vuitton’s trunks. It retains the same case but with a discreet, three-hand dial. Extravagant it is not, but it has wider appeal. Inside is the same LFT023 found in the Tambour, so movement-wise it has the same strengths and weaknesses. The movement is thin and attractively styled, but could do with more refined details, like the regulator index for instance. Though not perfect (or entirely in-house), the LFT023 compares well against the ETA 2892 found in the ori...

Introducing – Carl F. Bucherer Expands Its Manero Collection, Including the new Manero Urban Monochrome
Carl F. Bucherer Jun 10, 2024

Introducing – Carl F. Bucherer Expands Its Manero Collection, Including the new Manero Urban

The Manero is a pillar of the Carl F. Bucherer collections. This higher-end, contemporary line with elegant details showcases some of the brand’s best complications and some of its most striking movements, in particular those with the peripheral technology. The brand just released several new models for the Manero Flyback, Manero Peripheral and a new […]

The King Seiko Collection Grows Once More with the Addition of New Dress Watches in Tonneau Cases Worn & Wound
Seiko Collection Grows Once More Jun 10, 2024

The King Seiko Collection Grows Once More with the Addition of New Dress Watches in Tonneau Cases

Seiko has announced a new addition to their King Seiko lineup, and it’s their most radical release yet. Okay, maybe radical is a bold word choice for what is essentially a line of simple, sedate, and elegant dress watches, but this reinvention of the tonneau-cased King Seiko 45KCM offers us our first glimpse at what a King Seiko lineup may look like beyond the shadow of the King Seiko KSK. If you’ve been paying any attention to King Seiko since the marque was relaunched in 2020, then a lot of the details here will come as no surprise. In many ways, this latest launch follows the same recipe as other recent King Seiko releases, and in particular shares a lot in common with last year’s SJE089/SJE091 King Seiko KSK update. As I mentioned up top, the new King Seiko KS1969’s big differentiator comes in the form of an elegant tonneau case. I’m a big fan of this case shape, which often offers a tremendous ratio of wrist presence for wearability (just ask anyone who’s ever worn a Doxa Sub300). The new King Seiko is presented in somewhat of a Goldilocks size, with a diameter of 39.4mm, a thickness of 9.9mm (though I’m unclear on if this includes the box sapphire crystal), and a lug-to-lug of 43.6mm. Seiko also claims that the watch has a low center of gravity which, paired with the curved case, will keep the watch close to the wrist. All of this should make the KS1969 incredibly comfortable for a wide range of wrists. The vintage-inspired multi-link brick bracelet has...

Pastel Dials for the Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Jun 10, 2024

Pastel Dials for the Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

After unveiling the Tonda PF “No Date” earlier this year, Parmigiani continues to expand its line of sports watches, now with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph in pastel shades of grey as well a “Milano Blue”, while retaining the clou triangulaire guilloché. Milano Blue (left), Arctic Grey (middle), and London Grey (right) Initial thoughts  The Tonda PF Sport is a more elegant alternative to conventional sports chronographs. The guilloché dial is decorative but sporty with “panda” registers, while the case feels relatively slim. And the new dial colours add to the appeal, both by offering more variety and a less traditional palette. The changes are only cosmetic, with the dial, case, and PF070 movement remaining the same. Consequently, the price remains rightly unchanged at CHF29,700 – a fair value proposition especially considering the specs and construction of the PF070. New colourways The latest models are fundamentally new variants of the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph released last year. They retain the same clean styling, with silvered dials and contrasting registers, a look historically associated with motor racing-inspired chronographs. The dial includes the customary applied “PF” emblem at 12 and a date window between four and five. Although it contrasts against the dial, the date display is relatively discreet and coherent design-wise. The date numerals sits vertical in a square window, presumably to evoke a dashboard instrument panel. The dial is d...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Still Photography from Fallout, the Boeing Starliner, and Eyewear Inspired by Fine Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Jun 8, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Still Photography from Fallout, the Boeing Starliner, and Eyewear Inspired by Fine Watchmaking

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com The Story Behind the Fallout Set Photography Fallout, the Amazon Prime series based on the popular video game, has more than a few fans at Worn & Wound HQ. And a big reason for that is the show’s unique visual palette. The action takes place in a post-apocalyptic world ravaged by nuclear war, so evocative imagery is essential. A recent post on PetaPixel digs into the show’s visuals through a surprising lens: that of the still photography done on set. Most television shows and films employ still photographers to document production and create images for marketing campaigns that inevitably come later, and Fallout took care to make sure these photos were a particularly strong reflection of the show’s overall vibe. Photographer JoJo Whilden used a Hasselblad 500cm with Kodak Portra film stock for incredibly lifelike and visceral images. There’s something about the medium format camera used here that gives the images a vaguely retro feel.   New Work From David Lynch  Last week, David Lynch began teasing that he’d be unveiling a new project. The internet, of course, went into s...

The Gérald Genta Oursin is Reborn SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s La Fabrique du Jun 7, 2024

The Gérald Genta Oursin is Reborn

Recently revived by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Gérald Genta has just taken the covers off the Gentissima Oursin. Comprising three watches inspired by a 1994 model, the Oursin is a gently reworked take on the original, retaining the round, pebble-like case covered in studs and subtly facetted sapphire crystal. Though compact like the original, the modern-day Oursin is instead cased in titanium but fitted with solid-gold studs. Initial thoughts  In contrast to last year’s Mickey Mouse minute repeater, the Oursin is simple in terms of the movement, but it stands out for the complexity of the case construction as well as the striking design that is quintessential Genta. Though the revived Oursin faithfully recreates the original, subtle improvements have been made to the design, most notably with the reworked lugs tucked under the case, giving it a seamless outline. Another upgrade is the Zenith Elite movement within that replaces the ETA of the original. The new Oursin, however, remains similar in size to the original at 36.5 mm. I personally would have wanted something a little bigger, because the compact dimensions make the watch feel more decorative and ornate. The Oursin starts at CHF22,000 in titanium with white gold studs, with the version featuring diamonds on the studs priced at CHF32,000. While not quite a value proposition, the prices are fair considering the construction as well as brand. Quintessential Genta French for “[sea] urchin”, o...

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone Jun 7, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone

Omega continues to expand the range of its famous chronograph with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Colour. Following the recent Moonwatch with a white dial, the two-tone models are based on the Speedmaster cal. 3861 from 2021. The new pair share the 42 mm case, stepped dial, and “Nixon” bracelet, but they get a two-tone livery with gold elements in the bracelet, bezel, dial, crown, and pushers. And the gold is, of course, either one of Omega’s proprietary alloys, Moonshine or Sedna gold. Initial thoughts Before the long-overdue update in 2021, most notably with the cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch was beginning to feel dated in terms of tech and specs. The iterations introduced since the update have been spaced out well and fill logical gaps in the Moonwatch lineup, essentially creating a variant of the Moonwatch for everyone. This two-tone pair is a good example of that. Though steel-and-gold variants of the Moonwatch have existed in the past, they have never been common, or even that popular. The new models aren’t for everyone, but a useful addition to the lineup. Both are Moonwatches in terms of intrinsic features and design, but look very different from the quintessential, no-frills steel model. The two-tone models cater to someone who wants a Moonwatch with a bit more shine and a slightly retro feel. At US$18,100, the two-tone Speedmaster is a fair value proposition. It’s significantly pricier than the all-steel version, but priced in line with...

Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci Worn & Wound
Jun 6, 2024

Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci

Hodinkee and Parisian concept shop Merci have just released the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition for Hodinkee for their second collaboration together. You’re undoubtedly familiar with Hodinkee, but for those uninitiated to the Marais-based store, Merci embodies Parisian chic while offering a curated selection of products ranging from home goods to fashion. Through its subsidiary brand, Merci Instruments, the company combines a lighthearted approach to watchmaking with an eye towards the past for inspiration.  The design of the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition reflects a vintage aesthetic reminiscent of 1940s dress watches. Unlike traditional round or square cases, this watch features an octagon-shaped frame, adding a modern twist to its classic inspiration. The 36mm case exhibits multiple layers of depth, with a brushed steel rehaut, an anthracite grey hour track, and a vertically brushed center. Notable design details include the blue-painted seconds hand and the NYC and Paris markings at the 6 o’clock position. The watch is completed with an 18mm Honey Brown leather strap, which softens the angular features of this watch. The Beaumarchais H02 is equipped with the ultra-thin Miyota 9039 automatic caliber, which offers a 42-hour power reserve and ensures the 36mm case remains a sleek 9.8mm thick. The stainless steel 316L case is durable and water-resistant up to 10 ATM while the watch is also equipped with a sapphire crystal, making...

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko KS1969 SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 6, 2024

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko KS1969

After officially reviving the King Seiko brand in 2022, Seiko has introduced a new range of King Seiko models inspired by the vintage original from 1969. The King Seiko KS1969 features a stainless steel “C-shaped” case that’s a thin 9.9 mm high, along with a matching retro-style bracelet. It is available in four colourways, including grained purple and baby blue. Initial thoughts The standout feature of the KS1969 is its C-shaped case, directly inspired by that of the King Seiko 45KCM that debuted in, you guessed it, 1969. The model will be available in a variety of dial colours, including green and a striking “Edo purple”. Colours aside, the dials are straightforward, featuring applied markers and a date window at three o’clock. Judging by the press images, the font used for the date wheel is a close match to that of the original 45KCM, which is a thoughtful touch. Attention to detail was also paid to the date wheels that are catered to the dial colour: dark for the purple and green dials, while the blue and silver dials have white wheels. The slim, 39.4 mm case is paired with a multi-link bracelet with alternating brushed and polished links. The design is vintage inspired and evokes the popular “beads of rice” style. It has a somewhat generic “vintage” style, but the short links mean smaller-scale adjustability, enabling a good fit on most wrists. Inside the case is the cal. 6L35. Though considered accurate and reliable, the movement lacks the technic...

Introducing the MT-G Diffuse Nebula, the Latest Colorful Creation from G-SHOCK Worn & Wound
Casio s own nursery comes Jun 5, 2024

Introducing the MT-G Diffuse Nebula, the Latest Colorful Creation from G-SHOCK

According to NASA, a nebula is a giant cloud of dust and gas in space. Some nebulae come from the gas and dust thrown out by the explosion of a dying star, such as a supernova. Other nebulae are regions where new stars are beginning to form. For this reason, some nebulae are called “star nurseries”, and from Casio’s own nursery comes a brand-new MT-G model inspired by this very phenomenon. The Diffuse Nebula MTGB3000DN1A is their latest high end creation, combining metal materials with resin in a colorful package with all the durability you would expect in any G-SHOCK. The Diffuse Nebula MT-G displays a mesmerizing array of colors. From the intense blue and purple of the ion-plated stainless-steel bezel and multi-colored dial components, to the striking rose gold crown and screws. The attention to detail extends beyond the case, as the soft urethane band is a mixed color rather than a single tone, and the buckle and keeper are both purple IP coated.  But this watch is not just about looks – it’s still very much a G-SHOCK. It features a Dual Core Guard structure that protects its module in a carbon fiber reinforced shell and encloses the exterior in metal components. In this structure, the case back incorporates integrated lugs, securing the band and guarding the crown and buttons found along the case flank. All of this helps reduce the overall thickness and achieves a more compact, slimmer profile, which measures a svelte 12.1mm from the bottom of the case back ...

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Has Gone Two-Tone (Or, Bi-Color) Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Professional Has Gone Jun 5, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Has Gone Two-Tone (Or, Bi-Color)

Is two-tone back? Is it on its way back? Has it returned and then left again? I feel like for as long as I’ve been involved in watches as a hobby, people have been saying all of the above regarding multiple metal watches. I think the most common shared perspective is that two-tone watches (that’s usually, but not always, watches made with both steel and gold) were a staple in the 1980s, fell out of favor, and have been threatening a comeback pretty consistently for the better part of a decade. But I think maybe two-tone is as back as it’s ever going to be, meaning just about every signature (“iconic,” if you must) watch collection has a two-tone example. This week, we add the Speedmaster to the list, with two new references featuring Moonshine (yellow) and Sedna (red) gold.  The new two-tone (or “Bi-Color” in Omega terms) Speedys are from the Professional line, meaning these are Moonwatches at their core, even though they have just a bit of bling. That means a manually wound 3861 caliber with METAS certification, and the classic 42mm Speedmaster case. These references see gold applied to the bezel, crown, pushers, center links of the bracelet, and throughout each dial. The Moonshine Gold reference has a silver dial with gold tone subdials, while the Sedna Gold version has a dial coated in Sedna PVD with black subdials. Of course the most immediate question at hand is which one do you prefer, aesthetically? For me, it’s the Sedna Gold reference every day of...

Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar Jun 5, 2024

Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition

Seiko just unveiled the Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSH157J1 and SSJ027J1. Both feature a transparent, patterned dial inspired by the starry night sky and a multi-faceted angular titanium case with contrasting satin and mirror-polished surfaces. Though styled like conventional watches, they are high-tech and run on Seiko’s proprietary GPS solar movement, which is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and has six months of power reserve. Initial thoughts Well liked for its value-minded offerings, Seiko does well with watches like the new Astron GPS. They are practical, high-quality watches that have some of the stylistic glamour of pricier timepieces thanks to the facetted case and integrated bracelet. Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSJ027J1. Featuring a reasonable prices of US$2,200 and US$2,500 respectively, the new Astron pair offers are amongst the more expensive electronic watches but executed as well as mechanical offerings in the same price segment. The titanium are finished well and the moulded sky-blue dials with applied indices are unusual elaborate for electric watches. Putting the high-tech movement aside, the quality of the dial and case are good for the price range. Bang for your buck The Astron GPS Solar models offer a chronograph function and run on a GPS solar movement with a power reserve of about 6 months. They are each equipped with different movements, with the SSH157J1 offering additional functionalities like the world time a...

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Jun 5, 2024

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

For Tudor, 2024 was a year of safe bets, with the only completely new model family, the Black Bay 58 GMT, being an almost guaranteed success from the get-go. Overtly referencing sought-after vintage GMT Master models from sister brand Rolex, the BB58 GMT further solidifies Tudor’s dominant position in its category. While the big story last year was Tudor’s move out of its parents’ basement and into its own manufacture in Le Locle, this year was comparatively tame, focused on expanding the line-up of METAS-certified Black Bay models. Initial thoughts Tudor is one of the Swiss watch industry’s great success stories of the last decade. In a market in which high-end products have enjoyed the lion’s share of growth, Tudor has achieved an enviable market position by consistently improving design and quality while maintaining affordable pricing. The brand is also listening to the community, and introducing products that are likely to have built-in demand; the BB58 GMT is emblematic of this formula. Beyond its signature gilt accents and black and burgundy “Coke” bezel, the big story is of course the packaging of a true “flyer” GMT functionality in the smaller Black Bay 58 case format. The original Black Bay GMT, introduced in 2018, was beefier, at 41 mm in diameter and nearly 15 mm thick (14.6 mm to be specific). The Black Bay Pro shrunk the diameter to 39 mm, but the thickness stayed the same, resulting in a watch that felt overly thick. The New BB58 GMT address...

Introducing – The New Steel-and-Gold Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch models Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch models Jun 4, 2024

Introducing – The New Steel-and-Gold Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch models

While mostly known as a stainless steel watch, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch has been seen in multiple precious metals over the years, including recent Moonshine, Canopus or Sedna gold alloys. With two-tone watches somehow making a comeback in the past few years, it’s without much surprise that Omega releases today a new duo of […]

Breguet Connects the Dots between Art and Time at Frieze New York Quill & Pad
Breguet Connects May 31, 2024

Breguet Connects the Dots between Art and Time at Frieze New York

Breguet was an engineer, an astronomer and also a designer. He adapted certain techniques to horology, such as guilloché, for example. The art of Breguet is in the details, in the finishing, and the artworks at Frieze are also all about the details … an artwork is something you have to look at multiple times, and each time, you're going to discover different things.

Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original May 30, 2024

Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ Chronograph Review

While it was established relatively recently, in 1994, Glashütte Original can legitimately trace its lineage as far back as 1845, which also happens to be the year that watchmaking essentially arrived as an industry in Germany. As I cover in much greater detail in this article, a full century of horological tradition, centered in the town of Glashütte in the state of Saxony, came to an end with Germany’s defeat in World War II. It was replaced by a new era in which a state-owned conglomerate of once-independent heritage watch manufacturers, the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe or GUB, shifted focus from artisanal techniques and luxuriously decorative timepieces to mass-produced tool watches for military and civilian customers. Many of the watches produced in the GUB era - spanning the Cold War years from 1951 up to the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1990 - are largely forgettable, but Glashütte Original, the luxury-watch firm that emerged from the dissolution of the GUB, has cherry-picked the most interesting and memorable of those utilitarian timepieces, produced in the late 1960s and ‘70s, for modern reimagining in its “Spezialist” series. Serving as the base model for the Spezialist models is a single, now-collectible divers’ sport watch from 1969, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, which was the first dive watch produced in Germany (technically, at the time, East Germany) that met the international ISO 6425 standard. Glashütte Original paid tribute to the fondly rem...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...

Watch Bracelet Types: Here Are the Most Famous and Popular Styles Teddy Baldassarre
May 28, 2024

Watch Bracelet Types: Here Are the Most Famous and Popular Styles

Among the many decisions facing a prospective watch buyer before pulling the trigger on a new timepiece, is choosing which type of strap or bracelet it should have. We covered the various types of watch straps in this article; read on for our rundown of the most popular watch bracelets, focusing on some of the influential, proprietary styles from brands like Rolex and Breitling, which have impacted numerous other brands’ designs, as well as more niche-oriented options geared to collectors and historical-minded enthusiasts. Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case, which Rolex first introduced in 1926 and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches.  President Bracelet The Rolex Day-Date appeared on the market in 1956 and with it came a new three-link bracelet called the President. Intended as the epitome of Rolex’s luxurious bracelet optio...

Isotope and Revolution Unveil their “Mercury” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Isotope May 27, 2024

Isotope and Revolution Unveil their “Mercury” Limited Edition

Growing up in the late ‘90s and early ‘00s, there were plenty of things I missed out on. I was too late to see the Rangers win the Stanley Cup, was rarely allowed to sit in rear-facing seats in the back of a car, and Nickelodeon’s Legends of the Hidden Temple was in re-runs before I was old enough to compete. According to my parents, I also missed out on one of the great toys of their youth - quicksilver.  Growing up, they would often tell stories of cracking open a thermometer to play with the mysterious liquid metal inside, before making it very clear that the element also known as mercury was strictly off-limits. Now, thanks to a collaboration between Revolution and Isotope, we all have the opportunity to re-capture some of the fun of that elusive metal. The Isotope x Revolution Mercury draws inspiration from not only the aforementioned element but also the iconic Mercury Streamliner train designed by Henry Dreyfuss and the Roman god Mercury, from whom both the train and the element take their names. The result is a unique watch with a level of polish I’m not sure I’ve ever encountered before - though the Sartory Billard and Grail Watch SB07 “Ghost” sure comes close. The Mercury answers the question of what a dress watch from Isotope would look like. The Art Deco-inspired cushion case of the Mercury measures 38mm across, 44.5mm lug-to-lug, 10mm thick, with a 20mm lug width, and is 100 meters water resistant. It’s also fully mirror-polished. And when...

Hands On: Grand Seiko “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Birch Bark” SLGW002 May 27, 2024

Hands On: Grand Seiko “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003

Nature-inspired textures are a consistent motif across Grand Seiko’s portfolio, so it comes as little surprise that the brand would choose this familiar theme for the launch of its newest dress watches, the hand-wind and mechanical Evolution 9 “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003.  With a dial that features a fresh take on the texture of tree bark, the Birch Bark is also noteworthy for the movement within: the first manually-wound caliber in Grand Seiko’s 9S movement family that hitherto was entirely self-winding. The SLGW002 (left) and SLGW003 Initial thoughts There are few things I like more than a manually wound, chronometer-grade dress watch. With this bias in mind, I am predisposed to like watches like the Birch Bark. But Grand Seiko made things easy by making it attractive as well, with a new iteration of its Evolution 9 design language that is lighter in terms of visual weight. The big news is, of course, the thickness, or rather the lack thereof. The Birch Bark is 1.75 mm (15%) thinner than its automatic siblings like the SLGH003, answering’ calls for slimmer, dressier options in the Grand Seiko catalogue. The watch is also 1.4 mm (3.5%) smaller in diameter, resulting in a form factor that sits comfortably on the average wrist and will slide under most shirt cuffs. Dimensions aside, the Birch Bark in titanium feels smaller and lighter than expected due to the case material. This runs counter to expectations, since most dress watches are in precious metal....

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco “Dark Blue” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces May 24, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco “Dark Blue”

In anticipation of the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Monaco Chronograph “Dark Blue”, a variant of last year’s Skeleton Dial that retains the open-worked dial that’s now in a restrained blue with vibrant yellow accents, match with a case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts The new Monaco makes an immediate impression with its striking colours and open-worked design. It’s essentially a darker version of last year’s model (that was almost electric blue), with the muted blue a good compliment for yellow accents on the counters, central and hands, while also matching the all-black case. Aside from the aesthetic refinements, this is fundamentally a Monaco Skeleton Dial, with the same calibre and dimensions. Appropriately, it is priced the same as last year’s equivalent Skeleton Dial model. However, the Skeleton Dial is not quite a value proposition as it’s priced quite a bit higher than the Monaco “Dark Lord” that has the same movement. Muted colours The latest Monaco is making its debut just in time for the Monaco Grand Prix that begins this weekend. It’s essentially a chromatic variation of Skeleton Dial “Turquoise”, with the same open-worked dial showcasing the mechanics. The primary distinction is the lattice-like dial that is now in a dark, navy blue. It’s matched with yellow lacquered hands for the chronograph, which are echoed by yellow markings on the oscillating weight and column wheel visib...

Ming Gets Back in the Water with the 37.09 Bluefin Worn & Wound
Ming May 23, 2024

Ming Gets Back in the Water with the 37.09 Bluefin

It’s been a few years since Ming released the massively popular 18.01 H41 dive watch, and fans of the brand have been clamoring for more ever since. It would have been easy enough for Ming to re-release the 18.01, maybe with a new colorway, but the brand is not one to rest on their past successes and the Ming 37.09 Bluefin is far more than a slight update to a familiar model. Instead, Ming has completely re-thought what a dive watch from Ming can be, and the results are absolutely stunning - and quintessentially Ming. If you follow Ming on social media, the release of the 37.09 Bluefin today shouldn’t come as much of a surprise. After all, the brand has been posting throwbacks and teasers left and right to get us all excited about this release. Today, we get to see the new watch: A 600 meter water-resistant, dual crown diver inspired by the architecture of Ming’s recent 37-series watches, complete with Ming’s signature flared lugs and a preposterous preponderance of lume. Whether putting out affordable time-only watches or ultra-light record-setters and wild tourbillons, Ming has been unafraid and uncompromising. This details-first approach might help to explain why it took so long for Ming to follow up on the 18.01. Apparently, Ming experimented with several successors to their first dive watch, focusing on outperforming the 1000 meter water-resistant dive watch on a technical level.  Eventually, after producing several prototypes at thicknesses creeping up to ...

F.P. Journe’s Last-Ever Limited Edition – Chronographe FB SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s Last-Ever Limited Edition May 23, 2024

F.P. Journe’s Last-Ever Limited Edition – Chronographe FB

To mark 20 years of its first boutique, and also 20 years of limited editions, F.P. Journe has created its final limited edition of any sort. Limited to 200 pieces, the F.P. Journe Chronographe FB is a flyback chronograph with big date that’s powered by the manual-wind cal. 1518.2. Like past boutique anniversary editions, this has a titanium case with pink gold accents. Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic attributes, the Chronographe FB scores well on all counts. It is a good looking watch that is priced well. The FB doesn’t depart from the established aesthetic for boutique editions, which is a good thing since the titanium-and-gold combination is appealing. The watch is classical F.P. Journe in terms of dimensions at 40 mm wide and just over 10 mm high, which makes it elegantly slim. Styling aside, the FB is also notable as it is equipped with a new calibre. Few brands design new movements for a small-run limited edition. Admittedly the cal. 1518.2 inside is based on the current split-seconds movement, but it is still a new, different construction. Technically, the movement is not as much of an achievement as say the FFC or Vagabondage III, but it is executed well, and the watch is priced right for the complication. As is typical for majority of F.P. Journe watches, the Chronographe FB is reasonably priced at retail, just CHF90,000 before taxes. Accessibility, rather than affordability, is instead the problem. That’s true despite the 200 piece run is bigger than...

Massena LAB Teams Up with Raúl Pagès Once Again for the Limited Edition “Absinthe” Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe watches May 22, 2024

Massena LAB Teams Up with Raúl Pagès Once Again for the Limited Edition “Absinthe”

Massena LAB has announced a new collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès inspired by one of the most important Patek Philippe watches of the last century. The Absinthe, which serves as the direct follow-up to the pair’s massively successful 2022 release, the Magraph, brings together a proprietary hand-wound movement, a strikingly green dial (reminiscent of the infamous spirit for which the watch is named), and all the vintage charm we have come to expect from Massena LAB in one surprisingly affordable (and highly limited) package. William Massena is one of those rare figures in the watch industry who everyone seems to know. He’s an outsized presence who seemingly manages to be everywhere at once and have a hand in every facet of the watch industry. Over the last few years though, his name has come to be associated primarily with Massena LAB, where he consistently produces some of the most talked about limited editions and collaborations on the market. This latest release follows closely on the heels of a watch introduced last month. That watch - a collaboration between Massena LAB, Pagès, and Phillips Auction House in association with Bass & Russo - debuted the M690 movement used in the Absinthe and drew inspiration in its layout from the iconic (and record-setting) 1952 Patek Philippe ref. 2458 produced for J.B. Champion, Jr.  That watch was one of only two Patek wrist watches to have been fitted with an Observatory-grade movement, and its unique d...

Tissot Introduces an Affordable Skeleton Automatic SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces May 22, 2024

Tissot Introduces an Affordable Skeleton Automatic

Tissot added to the Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette collection of accessibly-priced skeleton watches. Sharing the same exact case design as last year’s updated model, the trio of new additions have open-worked dials that display the inner workings of the Powermatic 80 calibre. Both the styling and movement are no-frills, and matched with a price below US$1,000, making them a good option for the beginner enthusiast. Initial thoughts Tissot is known for affordable Swiss-made watches and the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is exactly that. The novelty of the watch lies in the open dial that reveals the skeleton movement. Although the calibre isn’t fancily executed, it is cleanly finished and provides visual detail that sets this apart from most similarly priced watches. The design is also enhanced by the fact that it doesn’t have a date, which gives the dial a clean, symmetrical appearance. Priced between US$895 and US$975, the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is a good value proposition, especially since skeleton watches are not common in this price segment. Entry-level skeleton While the sporty PRX collection is now its most high profile product, the brand overhauled the Chemin des Tourelles line last year. Named after the street where the Tissot headquarters are located, Chemin des Tourelles is made up of dress watches, with the skeleton model being the top-of-the-line. The Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton has a case that’s 39 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm thick, with a domed ...

Business News: Richemont Appoints Nicolas Bos Group CEO SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre May 20, 2024

Business News: Richemont Appoints Nicolas Bos Group CEO

Alongside its results for the year ended March 2024 – with revenue at an all-time high but marked by slowing growth – Richemont announced a major management revamp with Nicolas Bos promoted to chief executive officer of the group that owns brands like Cartier and Piaget. His predecessor (but not exactly), Jérôme Lambert, will be the group’s chief operating officer. Having led Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;) for just over a decade, Mr Bos skilfully grew the jeweller’s revenue more than sixfold during his tenure. At the same time, he managed to established a recognisable identity for VC&A;, one distinct from its bigger sibling, Cartier. He has spent practically his entire career at Richemont, having joined the group in 1992. Prior to taking the top job at VC&A;, he was its creative director, a role he retained even after becoming the jeweller’s chief executive. Effective June 1, the promotion of Mr Bos lends credence to talk of retirement for Cartier boss Cyrille Vigneron, who at 63 is nearing the group’s retirement age. Having led Cartier since 2015, Mr Vigneron has transformed it into a reliably profit generator that accounts for about half of the group’s revenue and a great deal of its profits. And next most profitable brand in Richemont is of course VC&A;. Jerome Lambert Some are more equal than others Mr Bos’ new job implies a demotion of sorts for Mr Lambert, who was appointed chief executive officer in 2018, after having led Jaeger-LeCoultre and then Montbla...

Kollokium Returns with the Projekt 01 Variant “B” SJX Watches
May 17, 2024

Kollokium Returns with the Projekt 01 Variant “B”

A brand founded by a trio of industry insiders, Kollokium debuted with a modern, brutalist-inspired timepiece distinguished by a quirky, studded dial. The follow-up, the Projekt 1 Variant “B”, features the same matte black dial that now glows blue in the dark, while retaining the cast-steel case and domed, “glass box” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Quirky and perhaps polarising, the Projekt 01 stands out with its industrial, slightly raw aesthetic. The latest version retains the same feel as the original, but now with a more restrained palette instead of the vivid, and slightly angry, red and orange of the original. Variant “B” is a low-key black and white in the light, and then glows a cool blue in the dark. Otherwise identical to its predecessor, the Variant “B” remains affordable at CHF 2,666.66. Although there are many micro brands and establishment names competing in this price segment, Kollokium offers something different that is nonetheless a practical watch. The Variant “B” The Variant “B” is the latest iteration of Kollokium’s inaugural model, which launched last year as a 99-piece limited edition offered only to friends and associates of the founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, respectively an entrepreneur, designer, and media consultant. Variant “B”, on the other hand, is limited to 199 pieces and available to the public. Last year’s Projekt 01 “Friends & Family” that glows orange in the dark Like the o...