Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Lange Double Split, A Heuer Camaro, And An Early Jaeger Chronograph
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
4,025 articles · 16 videos found · page 77 of 135
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Worn & Wound
I’ve reached the age where I regularly feel the temptation to say things along the lines of “back in the day…” This applies to various things, such as life without smartphones, dial-up modems, and Napster, among others, but occasionally, it also applies to watches. You see, it wasn’t that long ago that things were quite different. Dive watches were all north of 40mm, in-house movements were rare under $5k, microbrands were dismissed as a passing trend, and, most relevantly to this review, mechanical chronographs under a certain price were primarily powered by Valjoux 7750s or a close variant. With sub-dials at 12, 6, and 9, day-dates at three, two-pushers, cam-actuated, and always automatic, approachably priced mechanical chronographs were limited in their design options. Even 3, 6, 9 layouts were rare, powered by 7753s or ETA 2894s, and often limited to Swatch group brands. The point is that in 2025, it’s almost hard to imagine a world of such limited chronograph options. Today, thanks largely to Sellitta, 3, 9, and 3, 6, 9 layouts are typical (I actually miss 12, 6, 9 now), monopushers are no big deal, manual winding is an option, flybacks, GMTs, and even column-wheels are on the table. Simply put, it’s a good time to be a chronograph fan. Yet, even in this golden-age of chronographs (ok, that might be a stretch), there is room to stand out. Enter Albishorn, which launched in 2024 with a series of chronographs powered by a bespoke movement, based on a fun r...
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Monochrome
An independent family-owned watch brand that was founded in 1919 by Fritz Schluep in Grenchen, Switzerland, and active in the accessible luxury segment, Titoni has recently made a name for itself with its compelling dive watch collection, the Seascoper. We first reviewed the Seascoper 600, the brand’s top-of-the-range model with strong diving credentials and a […]
Worn & Wound
Last week, Hanhart invited 60 guests to their workshop in Gütenbach, located in the Black Forest region of Germany. The schedule for the day was packed, beginning with a factory tour, an 8 kilometers long Black Forest hike, a Hanhart Museum tour, and finally the unveiling of two new 415 ES chronographs. Felix Wallner and Simon Hall, co-managing directors of Hanhart, guided us through the factory and museum tour. The Gütenbach workshop opened in 1934 as the second production facility for Hanhart. It is now their only manufacturing location. It is impressive that this workshop has been in continuous production since 1934. There is a sense of authenticity, and you can almost taste the oil accumulated over eight decades. Simon took us to the first floor where the raw parts are made. Hanhart is in a unique position as a watch company since they manufacture mechanical and quartz stopwatches along with wrist watches. The machines are from the 1960s, but according to Simon, they outperform the modern machines in terms of repairs and total cost of ownership. These machines are used for making pinions, wheels, mainplates, and more. Hanhart manufactures 90% of the parts for their mechanical stop watches in this workshop. Hanhart in the past manufactured more stopwatches than wrist watches. In 2007, they made 20,000 stop watches, but this number decreased significantly as the demand cooled. Simon says that demand is again picking up with annual production of approximately 5,00...
Hodinkee
Panerai leans on its yachting connections with two new releases.
Monochrome
Eska may not be a well-known brand, but this revived Swiss watchmaker is gaining attention among enthusiasts. Initially founded in 1918 by Silvan Kocher (whose initials inspired the brand’s name), Eska built a reputation in the mid-20th century before succumbing to the Quartz Crisis in the 1980s. Reborn under the direction of Christophe Chevreton and […]
Monochrome
We can’t help but return to chronographs every now and then when it comes to our weekly Buying Guides. First, it’s a very useful complication. Second, it’s a very old complication. Third, it’s adaptable in style, as it can be found in everything from very sporty to very classy and even over-the-top Avant-Garde watches. What […]
Monochrome
Like clockwork, pun very much intended, Union Glashütte expresses its love for vintage motorsports events, and in particular the Silvretta Classic, with a new watch. Partnering with the renowned classic car rally for a good number of years now, each edition is honoured with a special edition of the brand’s chronographs. We’ve seen a copper […]
Monochrome
The Captain Cook remains one of Rado’s most recognisable collections and is a name that resonates with enthusiasts and collectors alike. First introduced in 1962 as a compact 37mm diver rated to 200 metres, it marked the brand’s entry into serious tool watches. Since its revival, the Captain Cook line has evolved through various successful […]
Worn & Wound
We haven’t remarked on it all that much to this point, but one of the inescapable trends at Watches & Wonders this year was a prevalence of F1 cars making appearances around the Palexpo. If you scheduled your meetings in a particular way, you could easily be convinced that every Swiss watch brand has some level of involvement with the sport. IWC, of course, is just beginning to promote F1, the highly anticipated new film starring Brad Pitt that is said to feature many, many IWC watches. And then there’s TAG Heuer, whose parent company LVMH secured a lucrative deal with Formula 1 in the off season, and returned TAG to official timekeeper status. Both of these brands had actual cars in their booths, and they drew a crowd all week. Then there’s H. Moser, a sponsor of the Alpine team, and finally (please get in the comments if I’ve missed one) there’s Tudor, a partner of the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls Formula One Team, who took this weekend’s Miami GP as an opportunity to release their latest racing themed watch, the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25. The limited edition (2,025 numbered examples) chronograph is modeled on the Black Bay Chronograph, a watch that has seen its share of special editions in the last few years, mostly by way of colored dials. This watch is a little different as it represents an all new case material for the Black Bay Chrono, making use of Tudor’s carbon fiber composite material (the caseback, pushers, and crown are all rendered in titanium ...
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Monochrome
It’s always refreshing to hear that brands actually listen to their fan base… Of course, it’s hard to please everyone, but at least some are trying hard to evolve according to the suggestions they receive. And sometimes, it results in a new watch that looks exactly like we’d have envisioned it. Such is the story […]
Worn & Wound
While more marketable leagues like Formula 1 entice with hypercars, social media presence, and reality TV, rally racing continues to wow spectators with its gritty and furious breed of off-road motorsport. Still, the rally world isn’t without flashes of luxury, and Breitling’s three new Top Time B01 Racing models look to celebrate the sport in all its dirty, dangerous beauty. Fortunately, the Swiss brand has a wealth of innovations to pull from their Top Time line-most notable is the “dashboard” dual-chronograph dial design that helps give the new Racing models that rally-inspired edge. All three Racing models are anchored by a stainless steel cushion case that gives the watch a squared-off and recognizably retro-futuristic look. With a 38mm diameter and a 44.4mm lug-to-lug measurement, the Top Time Racing should wear comfortably on most wrists but remain legible-both important factors to consider in motorsports, where one wasted second could spell disaster (or mortal danger). Raised, grooved sections add texture and dimension to each rounded corner of the case and mirror the tight spacing of the ¼ second dashes around the dial. All three models feature perforated calfskin straps nestled within an 18mm lug width, a design that calls to mind vintage racing gloves but still emphasizes durability and sportiness. The aforementioned “dashboard” dual-chronograph dial mimics an instrument cluster, with “squircle” (yes, Breitling does call them that) subdi...
Monochrome
Long before the Nautilus, Ingenieur, or the 222, Baume & Mercier introduced its take on the emerging luxury sports watch trend with the Riviera in 1973 – just a year after Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak. Over the decades, the Riviera saw highs and lows, at times fading into obscurity, only to be revived with a […]
Hodinkee
A sapphire Unico and two ceramic versions sneak in for the Big Bang's 20th anniversary.
Revolution
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Revolution
Monochrome
Racing chronographs… It might not be as packed as a category as dive watches, but in all fairness, finding the right one for you is not going to be a walk in the park. Hundreds of alternatives (and good ones, on top of that) exist, ranging from affordable quartz models to attainable Swiss mechanical options, […]
Monochrome
Born less than a year ago, Albishorn is already launching its third watch… But what is Albishorn? It’s a rather cool concept brand that aims at creating vintage-inspired watches. Nothing really different from the crowd, but Albishorn and its founder Chaulmontet had an idea: imaginary vintage. And by that, he designs from scratch, together with […]
Revolution
Hodinkee
Only 100 pieces at an affordable price, so move fast to grab one before they're gone.
Hodinkee
With a movement only just recently announced last year, this new release is one of the most affordable of its type on the market.
Worn & Wound
One of the things that all great micro and independent watch brands have in common is that they lean into exactly who they are. The brands that attempt to cater to changing tastes and trends never seem to last, or if they do they seem to just kind of languish and not really grow or do anything all that noteworthy. Another way to say this is that brands who are authentically themselves, and a reflection of the point of view of those in charge, and their clients, are almost always going to be the most interesting. Oak & Oscar, I think, neatly falls into that category. Whether the designs are your cup of tea or not, there’s no denying that the brand, their aesthetic, and the choices they make line up precisely with the ideas that founder Chase Fancher and his colleagues are trying to bring to the larger watch community. That was apparent in their recent Humboldt GMT SAR limited edition, which helped to underline the brand’s general love of the outdoors, and it’s built into their latest release, a limited edition version of the Atwood chronograph, in an entirely different way. The new version of the Atwood is a collaboration with Wind Vintage, the well known vintage retailer founded by Eric Wind in 2017. The Atwood Wind Vintage Edition is simply a product of two friends coming together to work on a cool product, which Oak & Oscar describes as a tenet of what they’re all about. Eric and Chase go way back, having met in New York just after the release of the Burnham, O...
Monochrome
In 2023, four years after the debut of the Code 11.59 collection in precious metals, Audemars Piguet introduced stainless steel models. The expansion included six Code 11.59 references – three Selfwinding and three Selfwinding Chronographs – featuring a fresh dial pattern, new colourways, and striking gradient dials with ceramic elements. The brand continues the collection’s […]
Monochrome
Hanhart, the German brand with Swiss roots, produced stopwatches in the early 1920s, followed by Flieger chronographs for pilots in the late 1930s. Today, it is one of the go-to brands for retro pilot watches updated with contemporary materials and movements. At the end of last year, Hanhart released the 415 ES, a faithful recreation […]
Monochrome
Warning lights go off for serious watch geeks when they get wind of a new model from a fashion or luxury brand. While Dior is best known for its haute couture, its first men’s watch, the Chiffre Rouge, cannot be dismissed as a fashion watch – far from it. Embracing an edgy, contemporary and admittedly […]
Hodinkee
Don't know what skijoring is? Neither did I. You're in for a real treat.
Worn & Wound
We probably sound like a broken record, saying it over and over again, but there’s really nothing quite like a genuine surprise in this hobby. It’s just that there’s so much predictability, month after month and year after year, it’s naturally the quirky and strange stuff that stands out and makes us really take notice. There are also, sometimes, watches that come along that present a truly shocking value proposition, which for those of us with watch budgets that fluctuate but are very much finite, is something that really gets us excited. Lately, we’ve taken notice of a number of independent brands offering previously exclusive complications at prices that only a few years ago would have been unheard of. We can call this the Bel Canto Effect, if you’d like, because it’s a trend that, if it didn’t start with Christopher Ward, is still very much exemplified by their affordable chiming watch. Perhaps even more unlikely than Christopher Ward dropping a chiming watch in a haute horlogerie design language, now we have word of Sea-Gull’s release of an affordable split-second chronograph, a complication that for years has been associated with the highest end brands. The Sea-Gull Split-Second Chronograph Limited, as it’s known, is a $3,649 rattrapante chronograph presented in a classical style. It’s extremely under the radar, so much so that we genuinely wonder why more people are not talking about it. Just in case you need a refresher on what a split-secon...
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