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Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch Time+Tide
Bulgari s Gérald Genta 50th Sep 23, 2019

Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch

Editor’s note: I think it’s fairly safe to say that Gérald Charles Genta is the 20th century’s most notable designer of wristwatches. Many know the list of his accomplishments, but the sheer scope and impact of his unique and inspired design language is still sometimes difficult to grasp. Royal Oak, Nautilus, Constellation, Ingenieur, Golden Ellipse … ContinuedThe post Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Zenith Luna Rossa” Sep 23, 2019

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s

The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...

“It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique …” – Teesan’s Omega Speedmaster CK2998  Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster CK2998  Travelling Aug 27, 2019

“It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique …” – Teesan’s Omega Speedmaster CK2998 

Travelling with a watch fan is always a fraught affair. You’re always pulled into random vintage shops or glittering boutiques, in search of the elusive, the rare, or the unique. It’s a lesson that Teesan’s wife learned … It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique … Teesan … ContinuedThe post “It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique …” – Teesan’s Omega Speedmaster CK2998  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019 Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2019

You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019

A lot of new watches are released every year. Big brands will often release 100 or more new unique variants (and fair enough, different dial/strap/material, etc take up a lot of this space), but even so, it’s fair to say that not every new watch gets its time in the sun. Sometimes that’s OK, as … ContinuedThe post You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection Time+Tide
Jul 27, 2019

To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection

Collecting watches is a lot of fun. At least, it should be. If it ever stops being fun, I’d assume that’s because you got into it for the wrong reasons (to make a quick buck, most likely). If you’re about to take the plunge into this massively rewarding hobby, but you’re doing so because you … ContinuedThe post To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Jul 10, 2019

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Pocket Watch

Contemporary Patek Philippe pocket watches are uncommon, and Rare Handcrafts examples – all of which are unique one-offs – are even more scarce. More objet d’art than portable timekeeper, only a handful are made each year. Sold at Sotheby’s late last year for almost US$290,000, the Rare Handcrafts ref. 982/159G “Japanese Cherry” pocket watch is a particularly delicate example of Patek Philippe’s enamelling. Rare Handcrafts pocket watches are often figurative or detailed in the extreme. This year’s line-up of pocket watches feature decorations that include a leopard, several landscapes, and a miniature of Vermeer’s The Wine Glass. The “Japanese Cherry”, on the other hand, takes a difference approach to its art; the decoration is simple yet vivid in colour and form. Unveiled in 2015, the “Japanese Cherry” watch was arguably the most important piece of the Rare Handcrafts collection that year, because the Japanese cherry motif formed the cover of the year’s catalogue. It’s a Lépine pocket watch, with the crown and sub-seconds arranged in a line (as opposed to a hunter movement that has them at right angles to each other). A plant synonymous with the country, the Japanese cherry produces the cherry blossom, or sakura, a cultural icon of Japan. On the watch branches of the cherry tree are depicted against a pale beige background. The branches are hand engraved in relief, with the individual cherries being bright red fired enamel with a g...

LIST: Our favourite watches of Only Watch 2019 Time+Tide
Jul 1, 2019

LIST: Our favourite watches of Only Watch 2019

The eighth edition of Only Watch is underway, with the release of the unique pieces offered by the 50 brand partners. After raising 40 million Swiss francs in the last seven editions, Only Watch is one of the most important charity auctions on the calendar, with Only Watch raising money for research into muscular dystrophy. … ContinuedThe post LIST: Our favourite watches of Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 pocket Jul 1, 2019

Introducing the Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”

Akrivia’s entry for Only Watch 2019 is a unique variant of its critically acclaimed Chronomètre Contemporain but with an added bonus – the platinum case is made by storied case specialist Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The first outing at Only Watch for Akrivia and its founder Rexhep Rexhepi, the unique Chronomètre Contemporain is equipped with a dial made of grey-blue fired enamel featuring white enamel markings. But the dial is unusual for having a hand-hammered finish, a decoration typically only applied to gold dials, giving it a granular surface. The view from the back of the 38mm platinum case is identical to that of the standard model, save for the “JHP” hallmark on the lower right lug. It’s short for Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a semiretired case maker who was responsible for some of the most exquisite watch cases of the 1980s and 1990s. Amongst his work is the incredibly complex case of the Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 pocket watch. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” is the first watch to emerge from the recently inked collaboration between Akrivia and Mr Hagmann. Stay tuned for more on this. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” has an estimate of 40,000-60,000 Swiss francs, and will go under the hammer on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva.  The complete Only Watch 2019 collection can be seen on onlywatch.com.  

Patek Philippe Debuts the Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” in Stainless Steel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Debuts Jul 1, 2019

Patek Philippe Debuts the Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” in Stainless Steel

The subject of rumour since Baselworld 2019, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A-010 in stainless steel is finally official. Almost certainly on track to become the most expensive watch sold at auction in 2019, the ref. 6300A is a one of a kind watch variant of the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch ever made that was created for Only Watch, the biennial charity auction of unique timepieces sold to benefit a medical charity. Aside from the steel case – the Grandmaster Chime is ordinarily available only in white gold – both dials on each side of the watch are also unique. The dial on the front is made of 18k rose gold, and features a hobnail guilloche centre and blackened 18k gold Breguet numerals. “The Only One” is printed within the 12 o’clock sub-dial just to make it clear that this is, well, the only one for Only Watch. Also made of 18k gold, the reverse dial is black with rose gold-plated hands. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard version. The enormous 47.7mm case is reversible, but being in steel will be significantly lighter than the gold model. The case band is decorated with a hobnail guilloche engraved by a hand-operated rose engine Inside is the cal. 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, a hand-wound movement with 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonnerie, alarm, date repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar. Slated to go on the block on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s Geneva, the Grandmaster Chi...

RECOMMENDED READING: Going to a watch meet-up? Leave the Sub at home  Time+Tide
Apr 6, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Going to a watch meet-up? Leave the Sub at home 

Maybe I’m getting old and grumpy (I am), or maybe it’s a genuine shift driven by the increasing visibility and Instagramability of this hobby/lifestyle choice/money pit we call watch collecting, but I’m noticing an increasing homogeneity in what people are collecting. Steel sports this, royal that, unobtainable the other. Where are the weird, interesting and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Going to a watch meet-up? Leave the Sub at home  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 – thinner, dressier Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 – Mar 20, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 – thinner, dressier

Grand Seiko has just announced its latest releases at Basel 2019 and, boy, does the Spring Drive - that unique trifecta of electronic, kinetic and magnetic energy - feature strongly. But not just the Spring Drives you know and love, with that arching power reserve at eight. No, in honour of the movement’s 20th anniversary, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 – thinner, dressier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Our pick of the best Grand Seiko watches of 2019, fresh from Baselworld  Time+Tide
Grand Seiko watches Mar 20, 2019

VIDEO: Our pick of the best Grand Seiko watches of 2019, fresh from Baselworld 

There’s a unifying theme to Grand Seiko’s 2019 collection – and no, it’s not the exquisite dials or case work, though those are all very much in evidence. No, this year it’s all about the mighty Spring Drive, a movement (which we’ve explained here) that is unique to Grand Seiko, and appropriately enough, 20 years … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Our pick of the best Grand Seiko watches of 2019, fresh from Baselworld  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.