Hodinkee
Happenings: You're Invited To The HODINKEE Perpetual (Calendar) Party This Weekend In NYC
It's a Perpetual Party, and we'll cry if we want to.
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Hodinkee
Revolution
FHH Calls off Watches & Wonders Geneva 2020
Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie calls off Watches & Wonders Geneva in view of the latest developments concerning the worldwide spread of the COVID-19
SJX Watches
Breaking News: Watches & Wonders Geneva Cancelled
Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the trade show formerly known as SIHH, has just announced its cancellation. Scheduled to take place in Geneva from April 25 to 29, the event was canned due to “the latest developments concerning the worldwide spread of the COVID-19 coronavirus”. Organising body Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FIHH) said in a statement that the decision was made “to protect the health and wellbeing of all our guests, press, partners and teams.” Its announcement comes not long after Switzerland confirmed its first patient with the coronavirus on Tuesday, alongside a sudden spike in cases in Italy. A scene from SIHH 2019 WWG is the second major Swiss event to be cancelled, following the Swatch Group’s decision to call off Time to Move in Zurich, a launch exhibition of its new watches, which was scheduled to take place from February 28 to March 2. Industry insiders now expect Baselworld 2020, slated to take place right after WWG, to follow suit. Several exhibitors at Baselworld, including Bulgari and Citizen, have already pulled out of the fair. But as of February 20, the world’s biggest watch and jewellery trade show is still going ahead.
Deployant
Breaking News: Watches & Wonders 2020 is cancelled!
This just in: The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has just cancellec Watches & Wonders 2020! Here is the official Press Release.
Quill & Pad
Corum Celebrating 65 Years Of Avant-Garde History In 2020 (Plus Videos)
To celebrate its 65th anniversary, Corum invited a few people to its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds to look at some lovely vintage pieces and talk about what the brand has meant to the history of watchmaking. Elizabeth Doerr shares her visit, and visuals, here.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or”
Backed by Chopard and taking the name of a noted 18th century French watchmaker, Ferdinand Berthoud made its debut in 2015 with the Chronomètre FB 1. Though unusual in style with an octagonal case, the FB 1 boasts an impressively constructed movement developed and manufactured by the same facility responsible for Chopard’s top-of-the-line L.U.C calibres; the project was the brainchild of Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. At its core the FB 1 is an elaborate – and delightfully anachronistic – tribute to 18th century marine chronometers inside and out. The subject of four patents, the unusual calibre is very much antiquarian horology; it is constructed with pillar-style architecture and contains a chain-and-fusée, feeler-and-cone power reserve mechanism, and a large tourbillon with central seconds. Since the debut of the FB 1, there have been as many as ten subsequent variations – which is probably too many but it doesn’t diminish from the intrinsic, technical qualities of the watch – with one of the most recent being the Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or” launched last year. Mechanically identical to the other iterations, the Oeuvre d’Or is distinguished by extra decoration, namely an engraved and grained gold dial as well as gold movement bridges engraved with a repeating pyramid motif. The Oeuvre d’Or FB 1.1-2 in white gold A tribute to marine chronometry Modern day Berthoud watches are inspired by the works of its 18th century namesak...
Time+Tide
BUSINESS NEWS: Swiss watch exports unaffected by Coronavirus outbreak yet, according to FHH
While the Coronavirus outbreak certainly offers a number of reasons for the watch industry at large to be concerned, its effects haven’t been severely felt yet. According to recent data from the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the first month of 2020 has seen strong watch sales, with a 9.4 per cent increase in … ContinuedThe post BUSINESS NEWS: Swiss watch exports unaffected by Coronavirus outbreak yet, according to FHH appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
‘Arm’s Length Architecture’: Building Blocks To Watchmaking As Exemplified By Some Of Today’s Wristwatches Including Urwerk, Nomos, Mido And Girard-Perregaux – Reprise
SIHH 2019 provided an instructive example to Tim Mosso of architecture’s low-key role in watch design relative to well-worn tropes. For him it was the third year in a row that parts of Geneva’s Palexpo felt like a Southern California cars-and-coffee event. But there are a few watch brands that do architecture well, and Tim takes a closer look at some of them here.
Time+Tide
Out of this world: These are 4 of the most attractive moon phases money can buy
While watches equipped with a moon phase complication aren’t without their detractors, for the astronomically inclined, they are wonderful devices. And, from an aesthetic standpoint, timepieces just tend to look better when they sport some form of moon on their dial. Don’t believe us? Well, take a look at these four watches … maybe they’ll … ContinuedThe post Out of this world: These are 4 of the most attractive moon phases money can buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – James’s Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph
Well, this is a bit different to a normal What Sealed The Deal … seeing as this Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph is actually my watch. I purchased it late last year after a particularly dogged haggling match that started with a seemingly innocuous Gumtree.com ad. Anyway, I’ll spare you the deets of the torrid exchange … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – James’s Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition
Chopard celebrates three decades of partnership with the Mille Miglia race, la corsa più bella del mondo which is raced over a 1,600 km loop running from Brescia to Rome and back.
Hodinkee
Business News: Bulgari Leaves Baselworld 2020
Coronavirus concerns are a factor. But sister LVMH group brands Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith say they’ll stay.
SJX Watches
Timor Introduces the Heritage Field ‘WWW’ Remake
Timor, best known as one of the 12 watch brands that supplied wristwatches to the British Ministry of Defence (MOD) during the Second World War, is making a comeback with the Heritage Field, a faithful remake of its most famous timepiece that’ll be offered on Kickstarter in mid February. Widely known as WWW, short for “Watches Wristlet Waterproof”, the British army-issue watches were dependable, no-nonsense instruments that have been reproduced by other revived brands, but the Timor remake is probably the closest to the original. The WWW Now being brought back to life by British entrepreneur Benjamin Briggs, Timor was originally a trademark of J. Bernheim & Co. of La Chaux-de-Fonds, which like many other small- and medium-sized watch brands of the time, assembled cases and movements produced by specialist suppliers and sold watches under its own brand name. The Timor WWW, for instance, was equipped with the cal. 6060, an AS 1203 made by A. Schild, once one of Switzerland’s leading movement makers. The remake (left) and an original WWW But like much of the Swiss watch industry, Timor went bust during the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s. Now it has returned, but Timor is not alone. With the values of vintage WWW watches having risen to a level where remakes are viable – it is hard to sell a reproduction for more than the original – Timor is not the only resurrected brand making a WWW. Timor’s revival follows that of British brand Vertex, another supplier of the WWW...
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction – The Final Additions #1
Over the next two posts, we’ll be showing the final additions to the “Watch & Act!” Auction. Lot 19: Baltic Watches – Aquascaphe Prototype Based out of France, Baltic Watches have carved themselves a niche in producing watches inspired by the second half of the 20th century, with a range of genuinely attractive references that … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction – The Final Additions #1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The end of the road – Luke’s exit watch
You’ll be familiar with the misadventures of Spinal Tap over their 1982 album, Smell The Glove. The original cover artwork is problematic. Featuring the image of “a greased, naked woman on all fours wearing a dog collar”, the cover is knocked back by retailers who flatly refuse to display such a sexist image. Without the … ContinuedThe post The end of the road – Luke’s exit watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED WATCHING: A beginner’s guide to Grand Seiko
Editor’s note: Ever wanted to know why Grand Seiko is so revered in the horological hemisphere? Well, this video perfectly sums up why the doyen of Japanese watchmaking is considered the crème de la crème on so many levels. So, if you’ve got the time, sit back and enjoy an explanation as to why Grand … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: A beginner’s guide to Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Enabler: How to justify buying another watch (#9. “But it’s an investment…”)
NOTE: We understand that you’ve found a new watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But rationalising this fact – coupled with the fact that it’ll cost a bucketload of cash – may not always sit well with the less horologically minded. That’s where we come in … Use The Enabler’s advanced levels of sophistry to validate … ContinuedThe post The Enabler: How to justify buying another watch (#9. “But it’s an investment…”) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in Rose Gold
Previously only available in titanium or carbon composite, Bulgari has now introduced the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in a precious metal case. While titanium and carbon composite are superior in transmitting sound thanks to their low density – making them ideal for striking watches – the new rose-gold version is irrefutably more striking, no pun intended, combining a starkly industrial design with the sheen of gold. Frosted gold First unveiled in 2016, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater remains the thinnest minute repeater on the market, with the case measuring just 6.85 mm high. The new gold iteration, however, is a hair thicker at 6.9 mm to ensure case rigidity as gold is softer than titanium. But the gold case retains the same all-matte, sandblasted case finish as the titanium model, creating a surface that is deliciously subdued. The dial is also made of rose gold, with the same perforated indices to better transit the sound from the movement to the case and crystal. Measuring 40 mm wide, the watch is depth rated to 30 m, helped by the use of a pusher at nine o’clock to activate the repeater, which is easier to seal against moisture than a traditional slide. The Genta connection Underneath it is the hand-wound BVL362 that is based on a 2.72mm high movement conceived by Gerald Genta in 1981. The movement was re-engineered by Bulgari, and bulked up slightly to improve structural integrity and reliability. However, at 3.12 mm high, the BVL362 movement is still ...
Time+Tide
The Enabler: How to justify buying another watch (#8. The Punctuality Excuse)
NOTE: We understand that you’ve found a new watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But rationalising this fact – coupled with the fact that it’ll cost a bucket-load of cash – may not always sit well with the less horologically minded. That’s where we come in … Use The Enabler’s advanced levels of sophistry to validate … ContinuedThe post The Enabler: How to justify buying another watch (#8. The Punctuality Excuse) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Naughty Or Nice? A Down-To-Earth (Under $5,000) Wish List Including Breitling, Baume & Mercier, Tutima, Nomos Glashütte, and Seiko Presage – Reprise
In case you need a reason for watch shopping – a watch certainly would help navigate through stores to find everything on time. Here are five wallet-friendly suggestions that might just be the ultimate “tra la la la.”
Quill & Pad
The Story Behind Maurice de Mauriac’s Watch Honoring Stan Smith, The Tennis Champion Some People Think Is A Shoe
“Nice shoes you’ve got there!” Miguel Seabra was walking down Church Road with Maurice de Mauriac founder Daniel Dreifuss and his youngest son Leo when they heard someone behind them praise Daniel’s Stan Smith Adidas footwear. They turned around to find it was Stan Smith himself, the American tennis champion from the 1970s after whom the famous sneakers are named. And that’s how the plans for the new Stan Smith Signature Watch all started!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The TBWS Crew’s Last-Minute Holiday Gift Picks
If you miss the cut-off for the holiday these picks aren't a bad way to spend a gift card on something that you'll actually want.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Romantic Note’
Vacheron Constantin’s annual collection of one-off and custom haute horlogerie watches was titled La Musique du Temps this year, being most made up of minute repeaters. They ranged from the strikingly simple to exceedingly ornate, with one of the prime examples of simplicity being the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Romantic Note’. Being one of two time-only minute repeaters in the collection – the other is ‘Dance of the Gemstones’ – the Romantic Note is essentially a variant of the regular-production Calibre 1731 repeater. It’s a large but elegantly proportioned watch, measuring 41mm by 8.5mm, so it sits wide but flat on the wrist. Though not overly large, the watch would be a bit more elegant if it were smaller. On a small wrist the wide-but-flat proportions can resemble a dinner plate. The smallest case size possible, given the diameter of the movement, is about 39mm, which would have given the watch a more tangible vintage feel. Design-wise the case is simple, which suits the watch well. The styling is taken from the Traditionnelle line, meaning it is relatively angular, with lots of flat surfaces when viewed from the front, which is deceptively simple. Much of the case detail lies in its profile – the case band has a single, lengthwise step, along with lugs inspired by the Maltese cross, the company’s logo. And the case back has a fluted edge as a design feature, being a snap-on, rather than screw-down back. Though the case design is fo...
Time+Tide
The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch. (#5: “The Cost Per Wear Argument”)
NOTE: We understand that you’ve found a new watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But rationalising this fact – coupled with the fact that it’ll cost a bucket-load of cash – may not always sit well with the less horologically minded. That’s where we come in … Use The Enabler’s advanced levels of sophistry to validate … ContinuedThe post The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch. (#5: “The Cost Per Wear Argument”) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #153: The Ideal 4 Watch Collection for Space, Air, Land, and Sea
This week, Kaz and Mike tackle a substantial listener question submitted by @gmtchronodive on Instagram. Space, land, air, and sea - what are the ultimate watches that'll tackle these environments? Tune in, enjoy the show, and share your picks. Hope everyone is enjoying the holiday season so far!
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Time+Tide’s NOW Magazine Edition 2, now available in the shop
Without further ado, I introduce to you Edition Two of NOW Magazine, available, well, now in the Time+Tide shop. A little backstory if you’ll allow me… What was my favourite memory from 2018? The answer is pretty easy. It was a moment in time. 5:55pm on a Friday in November to be exact. We did … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Time+Tide’s NOW Magazine Edition 2, now available in the shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin – A Romantic Note
We take a look at the new Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps” Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin - A Romantic Note.
Time+Tide
The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch. (#4: “The Milestone Celebration”)
NOTE: We understand that you’ve found a new watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But rationalising this fact – coupled with the fact that it’ll cost a bucket-load of cash – may not always sit well with the less horologically minded. That’s where we come in … Use The Enabler’s advanced levels of sophistry to validate … ContinuedThe post The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch. (#4: “The Milestone Celebration”) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
McLaren 720S Spider: A Week With The Everyday Supercar, In Traffic And On The Autobahn (Photos and Video)
As Martin Green piloted the McLaren 720S Spider the first few meters through the busy streets of Munich, he was instantly surprised. Not about its powerful engine, which puts out an impressive 710 bhp, or the retractable hardtop and great-sounding engine notes, but at the ease with which this car drives at low speeds. And that's not all. Find out what else it can do here.
Quill & Pad
Whither Watch Websites? The Future Of Online Watch Journalism (You Read It Here First) – Reprise
Back in 2018, Ian Skellern published a provocative article taking issue with the current state of online watch journalism. Specifically, he criticized what in his view is the low quality and repetitive nature of what we see online. But are things really uniform and uniformly bad or are there distinct types of online sources and content? GaryG wonders how we think about the different business models and value propositions of watch sites, and what it tells us about how the future may unfold.