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Furlan Marri Arcanaut Baltic Oak & Dec 10, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 69: Seikos, Sea Shells, Flybacks, and More!

On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we have news from Furlan Marri, Arcanaut, Baltic, Oak & Oscar, and Seiko. Furlan Marri returns to its roots with a new chronograph, but this time with a high-end mechanical chronograph movement. Arcanaut debuts two new watches in the D’Arc Colors line, one featuring a very unexpected dial material. Baltic adds some gold to existing models, and they look killer. Oak & Oscar team up with a local Illinois whiskey brand for a very cool collab. And, finally, Seiko debuts some new, and very nice, mechanical chronographs. This episode was sponsored by Artem and their new HydroFlex watch strap. Crafted with a premium FKM rubber base and layered with their signature synthetic embossed material, “HydroFlex” is water-resistant, flexible, durable, and comfortable immediately out of the box, with no break-in period. Artem Straps The post A Week in Watches Ep. 69: Seikos, Sea Shells, Flybacks, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Up Close with Furlan Marri x Auro Montanari x Revolution Swiss-Made Mechanical Flyback Chronographs Revolution
Furlan Marri x Auro Montanari x Dec 8, 2023

Up Close with Furlan Marri x Auro Montanari x Revolution Swiss-Made Mechanical Flyback Chronographs

Being the first Furlan Marri with a mechanical chronograph movement, we also want to focus on the beautiful dials and just the fact of the amount of attention to detail given to individual pieces. These pieces all come with the elevated inner dial which is brushed nicely to finish, accompanied by the pulsation indicator chapter […]

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes! - Reprise Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon Dec 6, 2023

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes! - Reprise

As Joshua Munchow swiped through posts on Instagram one day, he was stopped in his tracks, toothbrush dangling from his gaping mouth, eyes wide, and one singular thought running through his head as he stared at his phone: Grand Seiko doesn’t make movements like this. This is an avant-garde tourbillon movement with a constant force escapement and incredible, exposed mechanics! What in the world . . .?! Meet the T0.

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Dec 4, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon

Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...

Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko manages Nov 30, 2023

Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps”

When it comes to deciding on a new watch, I know I think about all the usual suspects: build quality, fit and finish, movement, and most importantly (for me anyway) is the look. In my conversations with other enthusiasts, brand heritage has also come up. But what happens if you’re looking at brands who are not old enough to have years of heritage? Well, I would argue that it’s important to discern what that brand stands for – their ethos.  $1185 Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps” Case Stainless steel Movement Soprod Newton Dial Red Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 30 meters Dimensions 38 x 46.8mm Thickness 11mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $1185 Buci, established in 2022 out of Paris, has a soul that is super-charged with poetry. Brand owner Nousseïma Baraket is both a poet and avid reader of poetry, on top of being filled with a love for horology. If you stop to think about it, our passion for watches is not without romance and poetry. Afterall, we willingly wear some of the smallest engine turning ecosystems in the world on our wrists, knowing full well that time is kept better on our phones and computers. We don’t need them, but our lives are enriched by their presence.  At this point we all know that watches have different stories to tell. Studio Underd0g lets us know that we can have fun with our classic watch designs. Grand Seiko manages to capture the nuances of nature in their dials. Buci oversees the integrat...

12 Rectangle Watches From Affordable to High-Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Bell & Ross BR-01 which are squares Nov 28, 2023

12 Rectangle Watches From Affordable to High-Luxury

In a world where the vast majority of wristwatches have round cases (about 80 percent, according to industry estimates), wearing a watch with a rectangular case is a great way to stand out from the crowd and perhaps to fly a flag of appreciation for the vintage designs of a bygone era - specifically the early 20th Century, the prime of the Art Deco movement. Best of all, just like their more ubiquitous round-cased counterparts, rectangular watches come in a wide variety of styles and price points, so there are options both for intrigued newbies as well as seasoned collectors looking to add a non-round timepiece to their personal rotation. Here are 12 rectangle watches worth your attention (and yes, we've left out iconic pieces like the TAG Heuer Monaco and Bell & Ross BR-01, which are squares rather than rectangles; perhaps we'll do a roundup of square watches one of these days soon). Bulova Frank Sinatra My Way Price: $575, Case Size: 29.5mm, Case Height: 9.05mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Miyota IL45 Bulova’s Frank Sinatra collection pays homage to the eponymous pop music legend, who owned many Bulova watches throughout his life and counted Bulova as a sponsor of his Frank Sinatra Show on TV in the 1950s. The watches’ designs are inspired by Sinatra’s 1950s-1960s heyday, when smaller, thinner watches were in vogue. The Art Deco-influenced “My Way” model in gold-toned steel features a w...

Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster SJX Watches
Longines Nov 20, 2023

Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster

Seiko has remade its high-end dive watch with a new, slimmer movement and consequently more compact watch. Still known as the Prospex Marinemaster, the new model is available in three variants (SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101), all sharing a design heavily influenced by the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the “62MAS” from 1965. Initial thoughts Marinemaster models long been solid but chunky watches, with examples including the Hi-Beat 36,000 limited edition or the forest green model from 2021. A more compact iteration enhances its appeal, especially with the recent popularity of smaller, vintage-inspired dive watches. The “62MAS” model from 1965. Image – Seiko The design still echoes the original 62MAS, particularly in the dial and bezel layout. However, the new model, especially the light blue variant, gains a more contemporary feel with the horizontally striped dial along and the engraved markings on the bezel. The patterned dial easily brings to mind other sports watches, so it does seem a bit derivative, but Seiko’s position as a maker of dive watches is strong enough that this still looks and feels like a Seiko. The latest Marinemaster is priced at US$2,800, reflecting Seiko’s gradual upmarket move over recent years. This places it squarely within the mid-tier dive watch segment also occupied by brands such as such as Doxa or Longines. While it remains a compelling option at this price, it is no longer such a clear value proposition relative to the competit...

H. Moser & Cie.’s Sports Watch Gets a Fired Enamel Dial SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s Sports Watch Nov 18, 2023

H. Moser & Cie.’s Sports Watch Gets a Fired Enamel Dial

Alongside its compatriots MB&F; and Ressence, H. Moser & Cie. is utilising Dubai Watch Week to debut a new model, the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, which is also the premiere of the all-new HMC 500 movement with a micro-rotor. The first Streamliner to sport a grand feu enamel dial, the new Small Seconds retains the model’s familiar styling but with recognisably different proportions with a smaller and thinner case. Initial thoughts While it is thiner and smaller, the new model has a similarly sized dial, giving it a completely different look and feel compared to the centre-seconds model. As a result, the Streamliner Small Seconds has a bit more of a retro feel in terms of proportions. The enamel dial is an interesting twist on the blue dial that’s become the norm for luxury-sports watches, and it is attractive, but a peculiar and somewhat mismatched feature for a sports watch given the relative fragility of enamel compared to a standard brass dial. Over on the back, the view is also attractive as the architecture of the HMC 500 was clearly devised with aesthetics in mind. The movement reveals lots of moving parts and sports high-contrast finishing, giving it an intricate appearance that’s different from past Moser automatic movements. Priced at CHF29,900, the new Streamliner is about 50% pricier than its centre-seconds counterpart. The price increase can be justified by the enamel dial and new movement, though the new watch is pricey enough that the value pr...

MB&F; Introduces the HM11 Architect SJX Watches
MB&F; Nov 15, 2023

MB&F; Introduces the HM11 Architect

MB&F; has introduced its latest Horological Machine, the HM11 Architect, inspired by 1960s futurist architecture. Featuring a central flying tourbillon surrounded by four polished titanium lobes, three of which contain dials, the HM11 offers a novel rotating case that pulls double duty as an enormous winding crown. Designed by longtime collaborator Eric Giroud, the HM11 takes cues from habitology, an architectural movement of the late 1960s that challenged conventional norms for domestic buildings, preferring organic forms to straight walls and rectangular windows.  Initial thoughts As someone who favours traditional design, I usually find Horological Machines a tad large and a bit ostentatious. But the HM11 is more compact and sleeker than its specs suggest. In fact, the HM11 is the most traditional Horological Machine yet on the wrist, with a round 42 mm case and simple lugs. It has a surprisingly small footprint on the wrist, though it is tall, standing 23 mm at its highest, so it’s not for the faint of heart (or the long-sleeved).  Yet even by the sculptural standards set by previous Horological Machines, the HM11 feels ambitious, particularly in the case construction. The complex form of the case, for example, requires 19 gaskets to ensure 20 m of water resistance. There are also numerous hidden details, like a proprietary shock dampening system adapted from the aerospace industry, that contribute to an overall package that is deeply satisfying; the longer you look...

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey” SJX Watches
Tudor Nov 7, 2023

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”

After shading the Aqua Terra Worldtimer line in greys and greens, Omega debuts the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”. A new take on its dive-ready GMT, the watch  is named after the dark grey ceramic case, which harnesses the material’s hardness while staying lightweight thanks to the extensive use of titanium for its internals, including the movement bridges. Initial thoughts Titanium and ceramic are not noteworthy in themselves, but here the materials are combined in an interesting and functional manner. The scratch resistance of ceramic is useful for the case, while the titanium inner components keep the weight down, a helpful characteristic for a big watch. And the materials also create a shades-of-grey appearance that gives the watch a sense of seriousness – with the orange accents bringing some tasteful contrast – though it is less stark compared to its all-black ceramic sibling.  Thought lighter than usual for a watch of its size, the new GMT is a big watch measuring 45.5 mm in diameter, making it quite a bit bigger than comparable watches from Tudor for instance.  It would be more wearable and have a wider appealing if the case was in the range of 41 mm to 42 mm. Despite its material attractions, however, the GMT “Dark Grey” is expensive at US$22,200. It is  almost twice as expensive as the same model in black ceramic (that admittedly doesn’t have a titanium movement). Despite the titanium components, the price is hard to justify since it i...

Breitling Refines the Avenger Collection SJX Watches
Breitling Refines Nov 1, 2023

Breitling Refines the Avenger Collection

Breitling has redesigned the Avenger collection of big and bold pilot’s watches. First introduced in 2001 – the original is perhaps best known for being worn by Leonardo DiCaprio in Blood Diamond – the Avenger is now (very) slightly scaled down, kitted out with cleaner dials and better case detailing, and an in-house movement for the chronograph. Made up of the B01 Chronograph 44, GMT 44 and Automatic 42, the new Avenger collection still retains its signature size and style – the watches remain oversized, rugged, and functional, with chunky rotating bezels and 300 m of water resistance. Initial thoughts  Breitling is known for is oversized pilot’s watches and the Avenger is exactly that. More substantial and modern than the old-school Navitimer, the Avenger is an unapologetically big, bold “tool” watch. The facelift has streamlined the design slightly, giving it a cleaner and more contemporary look, while retaining the key elements of the Avenger, including the all-matte brushed case and rotating bezel with rider tab. While there are technically three models in the family, the key one has always been the chronograph, and that is emphasised here with the Avenger chronograph with in-house Calibre B01. This is now the only chronograph in the line-up, while previously the collection included both ETA-powered and in-house versions. The Breitling B01 features a vertical clutch and column wheel Although the chronograph is the priciest in the collection, it is defi...

Certina Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Arena with the New DS-7 Powermatic 80 Worn & Wound
Certina Enters Oct 30, 2023

Certina Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Arena with the New DS-7 Powermatic 80

The affordable integrated bracelet sports watch wars have been waged on multiple fronts for many months at this point, and now, in a surprising development to some, they’ve hit the Swatch Group in a major way. Since its introduction, the Tissot PRX has been the standard bearer in the value driven integrated bracelet sports watch market, offering a huge variety of dial colors, sizes, and movement options at a price point that makes them compelling for collectors curious to try out what is undoubtedly still the hottest variety of sporty watch in the greater horological landscape. But now, a new challenger has emerged from within, with the introduction of Certina’s DS-7 Powermatic 80. Certina, at least in the United States, is frequently overlooked, as the brand doesn’t have significant distribution here, but they hold a key spot in the Swatch Group’s roster of brands on the more affordable side of the spectrum, and the new integrated offering here is an interesting and subtle contrast with the vaunted PRX.  The PRX is notable for its highly angular case shape, inspired by a distinctly 1980s design language. Particularly in quartz variants, it feels decidedly retro while still giving more than a whiff of Royal Oak if you just give it a quick glance. The DS-7 as seen here is a very different animal, with a much softer and rounder case shape and bracelet integration. If the PRX conjures the 1980s, the DS-7 feels more like a 1970s throwback, particularly considering som...

Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant (Force) Escapement: The Evolution of a Revolution Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Force Escapement Oct 16, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant (Force) Escapement: The Evolution of a Revolution

While it is remarkable how Girard-Perregaux made the movement, it is even more astonishing how they turned it into such an incredibly good-looking watch. Compared to its predecessor, the Neo Constant Escapement has a very wearable size of 45mm in diameter at a thickness of 14.8mm. It sits nicely on even a smaller wrist thanks to relatively short lugs, while the titanium case keeps the weight down.