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Top 21 Best Watch Brands Of All Time Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 14, 2025

Top 21 Best Watch Brands Of All Time

Watchmaking is a centuries-old craft, and as such, there are brands operating today with no shortage of heritage, not only stewarding the industry as a whole, but also fostering its continued cultural relevancy. Modern relevancy is vital to a crop of young brands looking to make their own mark on history. The complexity of the industry, and the purpose that watchmakers serve in a modern society, may have shifted, but their importance, and indeed their existence, says something deep about the value that humanity places on these things. Today, we find a vast landscape of watch brands and watchmakers operating, providing the most diverse range of watch offerings available to the public than any other time in history. This also begs the question: which are the best? Settling on the best watch brands operating today is no small task, and of course involves a heavy measure of subjectivity. That said, we can bring some structure to the table in an attempt to qualify the very best by an assortment of metrics, from industry leaders, to gateway brands, and even some wild cards that have the potential to shake things up. But what makes a watch brand great? Is it a consistent history of growth and innovation? Annual sales volume? Number of horological contributions made over time? Wholly verticalized manufacturing? Or is it something a little more amorphous, like public sentiment and goodwill, or risks being taken that net a positive influence on the industry as a whole? As with most ...

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The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Gets a Wild Lume Treatment with the New Lumiere Edition Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Gets Nov 14, 2025

The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Gets a Wild Lume Treatment with the New Lumiere Edition

The Bel Canto, in its relatively short history, has proven to be a surprisingly versatile watch in the way it can wear different colors and accents. That’s a little surprising when you consider the fixed nature of the exposed chiming mechanism and the way this elements dominates the look of the watch. But color and especially texture can take the Bel Canto completely different directions, conjuring both contemporary “indie” aesthetics as well as something much more classical. The latest version of Christopher Ward’s C1 Bel Canto now dons the “Lumiere” designation that we first saw a year ago in the C60 Trident. Lume was a big part of the story with that C60 Trident, but it wasn’t the whole story as it is with the new Bel Canto, which here sees its most radical reinvention to date.  Obviously, this is one for the folks who are never without a high powered flashlight in their EDC. The C1 Bel Canto Lumiere is the most exotic interpretation of the platform yet. It’s built around a platine with a sunray pattern that is intricately coated with two shades of luminescent material. This effectively lights the “dial” of the watch from behind, and below the chiming mechanism. The time-telling ring is now a solid circle of high powered Globolight lume, where the current time is read with lume tipped hands. There are no numerals or indices on this Globolight ring, and I’m sure some will balk at the fact that we now just have an approximation of the time to refere...

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First Look – The Czapek Time Jumper, A Double-Digit Jumping Hour Guichet Watch for the 10th Anniversary Monochrome
Czapek Time Jumper Nov 12, 2025

First Look – The Czapek Time Jumper, A Double-Digit Jumping Hour Guichet Watch for the 10th Anniversary

A name with strong historical importance, François Czapek was once the business partner of a certain Antoine Norbert de Patek. However, it’s mostly since the rebirth of the brand in 2015 that the name Czapek became popular among watch enthusiasts. This year, the independent brand is celebrating the 10th anniversary of its revival by unveiling […]

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In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch? Monochrome
Bulgari Create Nov 7, 2025

In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch?

At this point in watchmaking history, we can say, without taking too many risks, that Bulgari has become the undisputed master of ultra-thin horology. Breaking one record after another, the Italian/Swiss manufacture has been at the forefront of creativity and ingenuity, and while we are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with […]

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Introducing – A Smooth Bezel on a Hanhart…? Meet the New 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date Monochrome
Nov 6, 2025

Introducing – A Smooth Bezel on a Hanhart…? Meet the New 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date

Hanhart’s roots run deep in the history of mechanical chronographs. Founded in 1882 in Germany’s Black Forest, Hanhart became a mid-20th-century reference for timing instruments. Its stopwatches and pilot chronographs set benchmarks for robustness, legibility, and ergonomics, a legacy carried forward by today’s collections, most notably, the 417 ES. First developed for the German armed […]

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Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Nov 4, 2025

Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes

If you’re celebrating 270 years of uninterrupted watchmaking history, you’ve seen it all, and sometimes you need to find new challenges to keep things exciting. A new collection of Les Cabinotiers timepieces titled La Quête (The Quest) keeps the watchmakers at the world’s longest continually operating watch brand on their toes and the collectors happy. […] Visit Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes to read the full article.

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Seiko SPB149 Review: The Blue Dial Prospex Diver Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 3, 2025

Seiko SPB149 Review: The Blue Dial Prospex Diver

An outsized part of Seiko’s history is within its dive watch heritage, going all the way back to 1965 with the company's first dedicated diver, the 150-meter 62MAS, released as the 6217-8000, and later, its larger-crowned sibling, the 6217-8001. It was the beginning of a lineage that went on to include legendary references like the Willard, the Turtle, the Marinemaster, the Tuna, and the SKX, just to name a small assortment of them. Today, Seiko’s broad dive-watch lineup is well-known for its rugged dependability: from the entry-level Prospex models to the elevated Luxe variants like the Seiko SPB149, there’s a Seiko diver for every enthusiast. Seiko has paid tribute to the 62MAS design in the past with limited editions, but in the 2020s, the brand has seen a slew of regular-production, and short-lived models – like the SPB143, 239, and 149, which stand as the most faithful renderings of the 62MAS, characterized by the brand as the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. Although this model family came with different dial variants at its 40.5mm case size, today, we’re going to showcase the discontinued SPB149 before looking at the current production SPB143 and other modern day options which continue the 62MAS legacy. We will go through the standard points of its case, wear, dial, and movement, and then share concluding remarks about its overall legacy in 2025.  Seiko SPB149 Context In Spring of 2020, Seiko dropped a quartet of watches - the SPB143, SPB145, SPB1...

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The Quest: Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition At Harrods, London Fratello
Vacheron Constantin s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition Oct 30, 2025

The Quest: Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition At Harrods, London

Within the opulence of Harrods’ luxury London department store is a joyous journey through Vacheron Constantin’s eclectic history. Even by the northeastern entrance is a suspended forced-perspective Maltese Cross with “270” emblazoned upon it. This represents 270 years of Vacheron Constantin’s continuous operation, the longest of any watch brand. Winding through the halls of Harrods […] Visit The Quest: Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition At Harrods, London to read the full article.

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"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Oct 28, 2025

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand

How much do you really know about Citizen Watches, the tough and stylish Promaster collection, the proprietary Eco-Drive technology, and other signature innovations of the Japanese brand, like the exclusive Super Titanium and the recent series of automatic calibers in the luxurious Series 8 models? In this article, we explore the history of Citizen Watch Company from its founding to the modern day and spotlight a dozen notable watches in today’s Citizen collection that have caught the attention of the Teddy Baldassarre team. By the end, you should be much closer to answering the question of whether Citizen watches are good-quality and whether they're for you.  Citizen History and Early Milestones With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene. One would be mistaken, however. The company today known as Citizen traces its roots all the way back to 1918, when it was founded as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute by Kamakechi Yamazaki. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan. Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodo...

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Exaequo Adds New References to their Lineup of Dali Inspired Melting Watches Worn & Wound
Cartier Crash Oct 28, 2025

Exaequo Adds New References to their Lineup of Dali Inspired Melting Watches

It’s hard to overstate the impact that Salvador Dalí-and, by extension, the Surrealist movement-had on popular culture. What might now feel like a strange detour in an art history textbook was, in reality, a radical reimagining of what art could be. Dalí’s obsession with the unconscious, symbolism, and dream logic reframed art as a psychological response to culture, rather than just a mirror of it. In doing so, Surrealism paved the way for the Avant-Garde, Pop Art, and the way we think about art today. It’s no surprise, then, that Dalí’s legacy continues to ripple through design and (not to be dramatic here) time itself. Brands have long used his vision as a jumping-off point for their own explorations of time and perception, most notably, of course, through reinterpretations of some of Dali’s most famous works, like his 1931 The Persistence of Memory. The Cartier Crash, with its iconic “melting clock” case, is probably the most famous representation of this style; but it is not the only one. In fact, Exaequo has been producing its own version of a melting watch since 1990, with its latest references, the Polyhedron series, debuting at Time to Watches in Geneva earlier this year. While there will undoubtedly be comparisons between Cartier’s and  Exaequo’s two versions of a wobbly little timepiece, there is a marked difference between the two brands’ approach to the same reference source (not least of all the price). For the Polyhedron,  Exaequo...

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Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Review: Tudor's Best Dive Watch Yet? Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Oct 27, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Review: Tudor's Best Dive Watch Yet?

The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy was released at this year's Watches & Wonders to nothing short of acclaim by enthusiasts. Not just a fresh color, this is a redesigned Tudor Black Bay 58, essentially from top to bottom. What you’re looking at is the next generation of everybody’s favorite Black Bay size, and it debuts in a color you simply cannot ignore, and one tied to Tudor history. The Burgundy Black Bay 58 took the burgundy color usage of Black Bays from the past while leaning into the bright color scheme much more boldly than before. Rather than just adding another bezel color, Tudor decided to make the whole dial and front of the case a study in this shade of red. Where the past few years have seen Tudor experiment with satin-finished dials in its hardcore sports watches, from the Pelagos to the Black Bay 54, the 58 range has been steadfast in its use of matte or textured dial surfaces. That all changed with this iteration, as we get a punchy, sunburst burgundy dial color. You might think this is an infusion of modernity in a model known to harken back to the past, but it isn’t. It’s just harkening to a different moment in time – to a watch that Tudor never technically released. Indeed, that would be a certain 1990s Tudor Submariner Ref. 79190 prototype that had a similar red bezel/red dial combination. And while that watch never made it to the production stage, it heavily influenced the brand’s decision when it released the very first Black Bay with a bu...

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The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem Worn & Wound
Oct 27, 2025

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem

A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping.  John Harrison’s H4 Chronometer was a groundbreaking timepiece that solved the longitude problem, a major challenge for navigation during the 18th century. Before Harrison’s work, sailors had no reliable way to determine their precise east-west position at sea, leading to deadly navigation errors. The British government, through the Longitude Act of 1714, offered a large prize to anyone who could develop a practical solution. Sir Cloudesley Shovell, by Michael Dahl, about 1702-5 (L); The Association with the Eagle, Rumney and the Firebrand, Lost on the Rocks of Scilly, October 22, 1707 (R). Image courtesy of the © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London The Catalyst for the Longitude Act In the early 18th century, determining longitude at sea was one of the greatest challenges in navigation. While sailors could measure latitude using the position of the sun or stars, longitude required precise timekeeping-something that was nearly impossible with the unreliable clocks of the time. The inability to determ...

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Credor Watches: Japan's Answer To Switzerland's Best Teddy Baldassarre
Credor Oct 23, 2025

Credor Watches: Japan's Answer To Switzerland's Best

Similar to Switzerland at the heart of Europe, Japan has a hierarchy of complexity in its watches, with brands like Grand Seiko often being the first to come to mind in the luxury segment. However, just like the artistic free spirits from Switzerland who uphold centuries-old principles of the craft, there is a brand with tremendous mystique that is quickly emerging as a name to be reckoned with. It simply goes by the name, Credor. A Brief History of Credor Watches Much like Grand Seiko, Credor was born as a luxury offshoot of Seiko, established in 1974 to produce precious metal watches under the "Crêt D'or" name, which translates from French as “pinnacle of gold”. The name evolved to “Credor” in the 1980s, which saw the introduction of the brand's triple-peaked logo capped by three stars. It remained as a co-brand with Seiko on watch dials throughout the ‘90s, was sold mainly in Japan, and appeared on watches that combined luxury with sport, along with select jewelry pieces.  The focus on both kinds of watches –  the luxury-sport and the jewelry – had one distinct commonality: a specific focus on design with a bent toward capturing a certain opulent fervor of the 1980s and ‘90s. You can see some similarities in these watches as what was coming out of Switzerland by way of a certain Gérald Genta (and the connection between he and Credor doesn’t stop there). Credor In The 1990s The 1990s are something of an inflection point for the brand, when the Seiko...

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Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z Blue Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 21, 2025

Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z Blue Review

All watchmakers with decades or even centuries of history have some designs, lines, or collections that become timeless icons, and others that get lost to history. Here in the 21st century, all of them are subject to various revivals and reissues before being shelved again. Today, we’re going in-depth with a watch that’s recently gotten the axe from Rolex’s contemporary catalog - and one that might be its quirkiest tool watch ever - the Rolex Milgauss. With its easily identifiable lightning-bolt hand and origins as a companion for scientists, the Milgauss has never quite achieved the years-long waitlist fandom that many other staples from the brand have achieved over the years, and back in 2023, the Crown shelved its unconventional tool watch from production. Maybe it’s an example of always wanting what you can’t easily have, but in recent years, the Milgauss has been attracting a renewed interest at odds with its overlooked reputation. Down below, we’re going to walk through the history of how the Milgauss came to be, explore how the collection has changed over time, and use one model as a case study for its sudden spike in popularity. So, if any of that piques your interest, or if you are already in the cult of Milgauss fandom, keep scrolling, and away we go.  Rolex Milgauss History As we all are already well aware, Rolex's 120-year historical archive is full of record-breaking, boundary-clearing leaps in mechanical timekeeping. From releasing the first ...

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Urwerk Introduces the UR-10 SpaceMeter Worn & Wound
Urwerk Introduces Oct 15, 2025

Urwerk Introduces the UR-10 SpaceMeter

Just when you think you know an indie brand, they go ahead and make a watch that looks kind of normal. That was one of the initial thoughts running through my head when the Urwerk team showed us the new UR-10 SpaceMeter during our Geneva Watch Days meeting last month. It is, without question, one of the most confounding releases in the brand’s history. This is a brand that has singlehandedly carved out a niche for themselves with highly technical, futuristic timepieces that employ wandering and satellite hours complications in innovative and unique ways. Their watches are usually not circular, they do not have traditional hands, and they don’t even really have what we’d think of as complications in a traditional sense. But the UR-10 proves that even when a brand has defined a category, there’s still plenty of opportunity to surprise with something new.  The concept of the SpaceMeter is to, unsurprisingly, measure space. That’s a pretty heady concept, but it’s rooted in classical watchmaking that has always been an influence on brand founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. In the case of the UR-10, the inspiration comes directly from an important clock in Baumgartner’s life, a 19th century pendulum clock signed by Gustave Sandoz. The unusual clock belonged to Baumgartner’s father, and upon taking ownership apparently had little idea of exactly what the subdials were meant to track. After a lot of research, Baumgartner determined that the clock was desig...

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Celebrating 55 Years Of Titanium Watches With Citizen Fratello
Citizen Citizen recently organized Oct 14, 2025

Celebrating 55 Years Of Titanium Watches With Citizen

Citizen recently organized a traveling exhibition showcasing its 55-year history with titanium. I was invited to the Paris edition, so I made my way to the French capital with my camera and notepad. In case you were unaware, Citizen was the first brand to make a wristwatch out of this lightweight metal. While titanium may […] Visit Celebrating 55 Years Of Titanium Watches With Citizen to read the full article.

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Cartier Introduces a New Santos in Titanium (and a Cool Steel Reference with Lume) Worn & Wound
Cartier Introduces Oct 13, 2025

Cartier Introduces a New Santos in Titanium (and a Cool Steel Reference with Lume)

When the topic of Cartier comes up, usually it’s in the context of a discussion of their beautiful, design oriented dress watches. We all know what we’re talking about here: shaped cases, precious metals, exotic gem set jewelry pieces. This is Cartier’s stock-in-trade, and watch for watch there’s probably no brand on the planet better at making those kinds of watches. But if you look through Cartier’s history, there are plenty of oddball creations that don’t fit neatly into the dress watch narrative. True sports watches are rare (RIP, Calibre de Cartier divers) but there are many notable releases from recent years that run right up to the edge of a sportier category. The Drive de Cartier (also discontinued) was an explicit attempt to make a “men’s” watch that was quite elegant but also larger and could easily read as more casual. The Cartier Roadster collection is another example of a line that viewed sporty/casual styles through a uniquely Cartier lens. And, of course, the Santos has existed for many years in oversized and complicated variants (not to mention black coated examples) that fit nicely into this niche.  And last week, Cartier announced yet another new Santos that might, in its way, be among Cartier’s sportiest watches ever, thanks to the material used as well as the finish chosen. The new Santos de Cartier in titanium features a bead blasted titanium case and bracelet, and comes in the larger Santos case size, measuring 39.8mm × 9.3mm. Ac...

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Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967 Fratello
Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring Oct 13, 2025

Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967

Longines has a long history when it comes to high-frequency movements. Way back in 1910, the company received the first patent for a pocket chronograph featuring such a high-beat movement and capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. In 1959, Longines presented its first wristwatch with a high-frequency movement that only deviated about 1/10th of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967 to read the full article.

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Rolex “Time Zone to Time Zone” GMT-Master II Exhibition in Singapore SJX Watches
Rolex Time Zone Oct 13, 2025

Rolex “Time Zone to Time Zone” GMT-Master II Exhibition in Singapore

Having debuted in Geneva last year, Time Zone to Time Zone now arrives in Singapore come October 24. An exhibition dedicated to the GMT-Master and GMT-Master II, the event is being staged in Singapore by Rolex and retailer Cortina Watch. Slated to run for two weeks, Time Zone to Time Zone takes place in Paragon on Orchard Road, following a stop in Hong Kong earlier in 2025. The exhibition is a journey through the history of the GMT-Master, starting with its origins as a watch for the pilots of Pan Am, the now-defunct American airline that was the world’s largest when the GMT-Master debuted in 1954. Illustrated with period photographs, advertising, and other paraphernalia, the history of the model continues uninterrupted into the modern day with the GMT-Master II. Here the exhibition details the advancements in materials, movements, and manufacturing that make it a Rolex. Hosted by Rolex and Cortina Watch, Time Zone to Time Zone takes place from October 24 to November 2, at the main atrium of Paragon mall located at 290 Orchard Road, Singapore 238859. The exhibition is free and open to the public, but registration is recommended for the 45-minute guided tour. Register online at Cortinawatch.com. Update October 25, 2026: Venue images added.

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Le Forban Sécurité Mer Introduces the Marseillaise, a New Diver with a (Very Strange) Rubber Bund Strap Worn & Wound
Oct 9, 2025

Le Forban Sécurité Mer Introduces the Marseillaise, a New Diver with a (Very Strange) Rubber Bund Strap

I love a bit of fashion history, especially when it comes to how our modern clothes came to be. Take, for instance, the high heel. Did you know it was originally designed as a riding shoe in 10th century Persia, in which the heel was made to sit in the stirrup? Or that the jockstrap was originally for “bike jockeys” to help keep things comfortable on old (and presumably not so aerodynamic) bicycles? Or that the Hawaiian shirt, now synonymous with dads at Margaritaville, was first designed using Japanese kimono fabric in the early 1900s? All of that is to say that fashion is ever-evolving and with some quite surprising origins, if you ask me. Another accessory with an interesting – if not murkier –  history is the bund strap. Some say the name comes from the word Bundesrepublik, while others say it’s from Bundeswehr (I try not to split hairs too much in German – as you know, it’s such a forgiving language). Some say the leather strap protected against discoloration of brass watch cases from skin perspiration, while others say it was to protect against the extreme temperature change of the metal for pilots. In any case, we know that a) the design originated among pilots during World War II and b) it’s a badass strap design that often doesn’t get enough attention. Which leads me (finally) to the release of Le Forban Sécurité Mer’s Marseillaise dive watch with a bund-style strap. The French brand has taken its 1979 Monnin model as the springboard (or sho...

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Seiko SARB033: Why This JDM Watch Has A Cult Following Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 8, 2025

Seiko SARB033: Why This JDM Watch Has A Cult Following

The Seiko SARB033 has joined the ranks of Seiko watches that are more popular and coveted than ever - despite never having been sold outside Seiko's home country of Japan and also despite exiting the market entirely back in 2018. In this article, we explore the SARB033 and its closest siblings from the elegant collection and try to uncover what makes these hard-to-find timepieces so appealing.  Seiko SARB Collection History: Seiko introduced its SARB collection exclusively to the Japanese market in 2006, positioning it as a more upscale alternative to the sportier 5 Sport line, which also offered watches with the brand’s own automatic movements at very approachable prices. The SARB series (no, the letters don’t stand for anything, we checked) was built around the Seiko Caliber 6R15 movement, more on which below, introduced by Seiko one year prior.  The first generation of SARB watches (SARB001, SARB002, and SARB005) appears to take inspiration from the King Seiko “Vanac” editions that made a brief but impactful splash on the market in the 1970s, with their angular cases, funky dial colors and textures, and faceted crystals. The next wave (SARB007, 009, 011) goes for more of a rounded, “Retro Modern” character, with vintage designs influencing the three-hand-date dials. On the heels of that trio came the first models in the series to really break through to widespread enthusiast acclaim outside their native Japan, the mountaineering-inspired “Alpinist” m...

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