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In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture Sep 24, 2022

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

A hallmark of Greubel Forsey’s unique brand of watchmaking is its inclined, high-speed tourbillon that completes two and a half revolutions per minute. In fact, it was the first tourbillon by Greubel Forsey (GF) when the brand made its debut in 2004. Almost two decades on, the brand’s quintessential regulator has been installed in something entirely different with the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the inclined tourbillon remains, the Architecture is almost entirely new as a watch, comprising a brand-new case design containing a reconstructed movement – that is a tangible realisation of architecture – which together form a cohesive whole. Initial thoughts The Architecture may seem like just another GF sports watch at first sight, so one might dismiss it as being merely a repurposed movement modified to fit into the brand’s bestselling sports watch case. But it is more than that. The inclined tourbillon has been transformed into something refreshingly novel where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. And it manages to be novel despite high-end sports watches being increasingly common. In short, it’s one of the most notable watches in the GF line-up. Despite the familiar mechanics of the tourbillon, the details of the movement have been comprehensively reimagined to emphasise the brand’s distinctive approach to movement construction, one that prizes three-dimensionality in design matched with impeccable finishing. This incremental improv...

Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Sep 23, 2022

Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch

Just three months after it announced Jean-Claude Biver joining its board,  Norqain has unveiled its first product conceived in conjunction with the industry veteran best known for having created Hublot as we know it today, the Wild One. The Wild One is a lightweight sports watch with a case of a carbon composite known as Norteq and a laser-cut, patterned dial. It’s the culmination of a two-year project involving Norqain, synthetic rubber specialist Biwi, and more recently Mr Biver, who “[challenged] the team to innovate; to create a lightweight and shock-resistant timepiece that reflects the brand’s active DNA”. Initial thoughts Often found in expensive and exotic sports watches – although not an expensive material in itself – carbon composite cases are uncommon at the US$5,000 price point, thought they are becoming more common. Alongside models from Oris and Bell & Ross, this is amongst the few offerings in this price segment. And the Wild One has all the features of a bona fide sports watch, including water resistance of 200 m and of course a robust Kenissi movement. That said, the Wild One will also have the downside that is intrinsic to carbon composite – it is essentially a type of plastic and looks the part, resulting in a look that you either like or not. Notably, the liberal use of modern synthetic materials like carbon composite and rubber certainly evokes other products Mr Biver had a hand in creating. And so do the aesthetics; the patterned di...

5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy Time+Tide
Seiko watches you can still Sep 22, 2022

5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy

The changing resale values of Seiko watches is a mystery to most people, with some models soaring and diving within the space of a year. One thing that does always drive up prices, however, is once a model gets discontinued, as I recently discovered with my own $200 Seiko Sapphire. It doesn’t even matter if … ContinuedThe post 5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 offers bright, colourful retro fun Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Formula 1 offers bright Sep 22, 2022

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 offers bright, colourful retro fun

You’ve just watched Alain Prost win the first of his four Formula 1 championships, yet your colourful little Swatch that’s been all the rage recently doesn’t quite satisfy your racing enthusiast heart. Naturally, TAG Heuer come to your rescue with their array of funky, plastic-bezelled and fibreglass-cased Formula 1 pieces just the following year. The … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Formula 1 offers bright, colourful retro fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Sep 22, 2022

My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction

Running until October 1, the Ineichen Auctioneers Vintage watch auction consists of 72 lots of old-school goodness. It features everything from Patek Philippe to Audemars Piguet and beautiful dress watches to classic sport references. With so much up for grabs, I decided to pick five lots that spoke to me. Five watches, that if I … ContinuedThe post My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono Felix Perpetual SJX Watches
Massena Lab Sep 21, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono Felix Perpetual

Continuing with the vintage-inspired aesthetic that has informed many of its recent models, Habring² is elaborating upon its single-button chronograph. Now the brand’s flagship model, the Chrono Felix Perpetual is self-explanatory – a hand-wind Felix chronograph with a perpetual calendar module. As is typical for Habring², the Chrono Felix Perpetual (CFP) approaches the double complication in a practical and affordable manner. It’s powered by the brand’s own A11 base movement, while the calendar is the familiar and reliable Dubois-Depraz module. The CFP is making its debut in two variants: a “salmon” dial with Breguet numerals as well as a striking black-and-silver version for Massena Lab. The “salmon” dial model available from Habring² Initial thoughts Although Habring² introduced a split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar three years ago, the CFP feels like an all-new product. And it is, in fact, new in most tangible respects. The case is smaller while the movement has been dressed up and even incorporates an in-house escapement and balance assembly. The CFP is a handsome watch with surprisingly compact proportions. In fact, the CFP will feel like the standard Habring² Felix chronograph, since they share the same case middle with the CFP having a thicker bezel. The Massena Lab edition While both versions of the CFP have the same dimensions, they are aesthetics opposites despite both being vintage inspired. Habring²’s edition is a warm,...

More diamonds, more refinement, more options: The new IWC Portofino Automatic 37 Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Automatic 37 Sep 21, 2022

More diamonds, more refinement, more options: The new IWC Portofino Automatic 37

The IWC Portofino Automatic 37 has been a staple in the Schaffhausen watchmaker’s collection since 2014, largely targeted at their female audience. The new Portofino 37 models continue the feminine touches found in the original, with subtle design changes and technological improvements. This includes the introduction of a manufacture calibre, enhanced diamond setting and larger … ContinuedThe post More diamonds, more refinement, more options: The new IWC Portofino Automatic 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Slimmer than the Moonwatch – the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes a giant leap towards wearability Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes Sep 21, 2022

VIDEO: Slimmer than the Moonwatch – the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes a giant leap towards wearability

When Omega’s eye turned towards their 1957 trilogy of sports watches, the reissued vintage watch trend was sky-high, but not yet at its peak. The last few years have seen brands like Omega perfecting the art of the retro, figuring out which elements needed updating and which ones were best kept in their original state. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Slimmer than the Moonwatch – the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes a giant leap towards wearability appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Racing watch owners rejoice: Dents driving gloves are a dream come true Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2022

Racing watch owners rejoice: Dents driving gloves are a dream come true

Driving gloves and a racing watch. It’s a combination that gets the blood flowing of any watch collector who dreams of being Steve McQueen in Le Mans or Paul Newman in his actual day to day life. Even I’ll admit the image of slowly tightening your gloves before accelerating off the starting line comes to mind … ContinuedThe post Racing watch owners rejoice: Dents driving gloves are a dream come true appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Hemel HFT20 Series delivers affordable pilot’s watches with a real attention to detail Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Hemel HFT20 Series delivers affordable pilot’s watches with a real attention to detail

As a microbrand, Hemel have very much found their niche and stuck to it. Regarding military watches as the forefront of horological development throughout history, Hemel have chosen to evoke some of the most important field, diver, and pilot’s watches, particularly from the WWII era. Today we put a spotlight on the expansive Hemel HFT20 … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Hemel HFT20 Series delivers affordable pilot’s watches with a real attention to detail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Book Review: MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years SJX Watches
MB&F; Sep 19, 2022

Book Review: MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years

MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. By Suzanne Wong and William Massena. La Martinière/Abrams; CHF198 for M.A.D. Gallery edition; US$170 for standard edition. To celebrate its 15 years – from 2005 to 2020 – of making extraordinary watches, MB&F; commissioned a 312-page book, MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. In its short foreword, MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser states he did not want a biography since they are “only written at the end of a journey”. Instead, he puts forward the rhetorical question: developing 18 calibres for over 160 products over the period “deserves to be documented, right?” He adds “hundreds of artisans, engineers and watchmakers” came along for the ride and “this is the story I love to tell”. He describes the tome as a catalogue raisonné, adding that it is something “never been done for a watch brand; a world first in the watchmaking industry!” Defined by the New York Public Library, a catalogue raisonné in the visual arts serves as an important tool not just to establish an artist’s oeuvre, and thus record history, but also to aid in authentication by cataloguing all the known works of an artist. The New York Public Library also adds “Essay(s) on the artist” and “Critical assessments and remarks” as desirable content in such a publication. All the watches and all the friends The main part of the book is such a catalogue of 254 pages, divided into three sections: “Horological Machines”, “Legacy Machines”, ...

The shining stars of the Chopard L.U.C collection Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C collection Chopard Sep 18, 2022

The shining stars of the Chopard L.U.C collection

Chopard is a brand fighting on many fronts. Their offering encompasses jewellery and watches, with the watch side of the maison covering everything from sporty chronographs and quartz stainless-steel pieces to haute horlogerie sapphire chiming pieces and jewel-encrusted creations. The Chopard L.U.C collection builds on the history of the brand and its founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, … ContinuedThe post The shining stars of the Chopard L.U.C collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #22 “Mechanical Movement Parts” Time+Tide
Sep 17, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #22 “Mechanical Movement Parts”

After weeks of enjoying Zach’s crosswords, I figured what the heck. Time to hijack it like I sometimes do the Friday Wind Down. So today, I’m going to test you all on the most important part of your mechanical watch. And that is its mechanical movement. Let’s see what you got! The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #22 “Mechanical Movement Parts” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Sep 16, 2022

Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide

The Longines HydroConquest features a boldly contemporary design and a sturdy, water-resistant construction that have made it one of the most popular dive watches in its sport-luxury price segment. Since its debut in 2007, the Longines HydroConquest has expanded into a versatile collection with an array of sizes, colorways, and materials to appeal to a wide audience of dive watch enthusiasts. Here are seven things to know if you're looking at adding a Longines HydroConquest watch to your collection. The Longines HydroConquest has its roots in Longines’ very first named collection from 1954. Longines, which derives its name from “les longines,” aka “the long meadows” that surround the Swiss village of Saint-Imier where it was founded, has been making timepieces since 1832. It wasn’t until 1954, however, that Longines began engaging in the modern marketing practice of introducing product families with distinctive names. “Conquest” was the first such name to be registered, on April 3, 1954, with the Swiss Register of Intellectual Property. The original Longines Conquest (reproduced above) was designed as one of the first generation of “modern” wristwatches, i.e., equipped with a highly accurate automatic movement and a water-resistant case that also protected the movement from magnetism and shocks.  Despite its utilitarian elements, the original Conquest was undeniably a dress watch, with a very modest 35mm case; a clean, minimalist dial; applied diamond...

The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date you never knew Sep 16, 2022

The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed

Rolex is known for being fairly conservative and calculated these days. Sure, there are a few exceptions like the recent falcon’s eye dial for the Yachtmaster, say, or their colourful expressions with their gem-set watches like the leopard and rainbow Daytona watches. But, more often than not, their novelties involve incremental updates – slight refinements … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.