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Monochrome
When it comes to watches for men made by Bulgari, it seems the multiple-time record-breaking Octo Finissimo range gets all the attention… Rightfully so, you’ll admit, as this collection is as spectacular visually as it is technically. Bold, ultra-thin, highly distinctive in its approach to design and materials and undeniably Italian, it is the brand’s […]
Worn & Wound
We live in a golden age of watch knowledge. Never before have so many people known so much about watches, or cared about them so deeply, and it’s genuinely remarkable. Have a specific question about a rare Rolex from 40 or 50 years ago? The answer is probably just a Google search away. Need to check that the watch you’re looking to buy was made in exactly the spec you’re seeing on eBay? There’s almost certainly a forum post somewhere breaking it down for you - no subject is too esoteric, no prompt too singular. There’s enough watch knowledge out there to fill a lifetime, and probably more, if you go looking for it. Then there’s the other… stuff. Open up Instagram and you’ll immediately be inundated by accounts professing to represent ‘watch experts’ peddling surface-level observations as hard-earned insights. Start to absorb enough of this, and it’s easy to convince yourself you should count among them, that you’ve done the real work required to achieve expertise. It’s a trap, and an easy one to fall into at that. Because unless someone in your life brought you into this world, you’re probably the foremost watch expert in your life. You’re almost certainly the one your friends and family come to when (cough, cough… if) they have questions about watches. Just being able to tell the difference between a quartz and a mechanical watch probably puts you in the top quartile of watch knowledge. And if you’re reading articles like this on sites ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot is one of the world's largest Swiss watchmakers and can look back on a rich history upon which it is still building today. In the modern era, Tissot is widely known for its large and diverse portfolio of watches, which ranges from dressy to sporty to high-tech, for its high-profile sports timing presence, and for its incredible value for the money. But there is a lot more that you may not know about Tissot and its many contributions to watchmaking history. Here, we delve into the highlights and tackle the easily answerable question of "are Tissot watches good?". (And if you're interested in learning more about particular Tissot Watches that are available now, check out our companion article on the Best Tissot Watches for Men.) Tissot’s Watchmaking Milestones Began in 1853 Tissot is one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world, tracing its history back to 1853. Its founders were the father-son watchmaking team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot, who turned their home in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, where the company remains headquartered today, into a small factory. By 1858, the family firm had gained a major foothold in Tsarist Russia, which became the largest market for the savonette pocket watches that were its specialty at the time. (At one point, Charles-Émile’s son, Charles Tissot, the third generation of the Tissot family to join the business, moved to Moscow to open an office there.) Tissot is recognized as the producer of the first...
Teddy Baldassarre
Charles M. Schulz published his first Peanuts comics strip in 1950, setting the foundation for a world of iconic characters like Charlie Brown, Peppermint Patty, and perhaps most famously, Charlie Brown’s dog Snoopy, an irrepressible beagle originally based on a drawing of Schulz’s childhood pet, Spike. Peanuts grew from humble beginnings (syndicated in just seven newspapers) to become the most popular and influential comics strip in the world, published in more than 2,600 newspapers from 1950 to 2000 and claiming a worldwide readership of 355 million in 75 countries. It also spawned an entertainment and marketing phenomenon, with numerous animated film and TV specials that have stood the test of time and a flood of branded products that continues into the modern era. Snoopy, including all his various, beloved “fantasy life” iterations - like the World War I Flying Ace and the beatnik-inspired, shades-wearing “Joe Cool” - remains one of the most famous and recognizable characters in the world. His likeness can be found on merchandise from backpacks and sweatshirts, to notebooks and wrapping paper, to mugs and glassware, to the world’s most famous giant parade balloon. It was more or less inevitable that Snoopy, and others from the Peanuts gang, would also find their way onto watches, the first one coming from New York-based Armitron in 1956 (above). The last original Peanuts cartoon strip ran on February 13, 2000, one day after Charles M. Schulz die...
Time+Tide
Zenith cloaks its dive watch in the same microblasted titanium used in their recent limited-edition 'Shadow' models - to amazing effect.The post The tough Zenith Defy Extreme Diver gets a purposeful ‘Shadow’ makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Let’s get something out of the way immediately: yes, it is brightly coloured, and yes, it isn’t the easiest watch to acquire. Right, let’s now be more serious about Kurono Tokyo and its latest watch, the Vermilion Chronograph. What is Kurono? Well, that’s the accessible brand of independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, a bit like so-called […]
Fratello
Before I start this article, there’s something I must confess: I do not currently have a favorite Rolex Datejust. It’s not because I don’t like the watch or because I’ve tried and failed to find one - quite the opposite. If I can’t quickly name my favorite reference of this octogenarian Rolex model, it’s simply […] Visit Selection By Elimination - How I Found The Perfect Rolex Datejust to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...
Worn & Wound
It’s perhaps a little surprising that it’s taken this long for Farer to enter the integrated bracelet sports watch scene. Not because the brand seems like a particularly likely prism through which to interpret the genre, but because the integrated bracelet sports watch has simply become a category unto itself over these last few years, and a brand that commits to variety of any kind needs to have one in their catalog, just as they need to have a diver, a dress watch, and so forth. The fact that so many small brands have carved out space in their collections for what was once a fairly niche and, if we’re being honest, not even very desirable style of watch says a lot about the state of the watch industry, more in fact than the purview of this article, which is to introduce the new Farer Integra lineup. The Integra is what Farer calls their “urban sports watch,” a characterization that has always confused me when used by other brands, and is even a bit stranger when you realize one of these watches has a malachite dial, and another in mother of pearl. Farer is a brand whose aesthetic is borrowed from nautical themes, car culture, vintage watch design, and other sources, so their take on “urban” was always going to be filtered through a very particular sensibility. In any case, it makes me wonder why any brand feels they need to fill these invented micro-niches. Can’t we just call it an integrated bracelet sports watch? Or a sports watch? We all kind of know w...
Monochrome
Roger Dubuis introduced the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph in 2023, debuting it in a lightweight carbon case inspired by supercar engineering and embodying the brand’s vision of hyper horology – bold, expressive, and technically advanced watchmaking. Also in 2023, the Excalibur Spider Revuelto Flyback Chronograph was unveiled alongside the launch of the actual Lamborghini Revuelto. […]
SJX Watches
Louis Erard’s niche is making either watchmakers or techniques affordable – the Gravée Main is hand engraving priced accessibly. The watch is entirely engraved by hand, across the bezel, case, crown, and buckle, with a classical leaf motif by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and engraver from Ukraine. The resulting look is a blend of Gothic and Baroque, but the underlying watch retains the usual dimensions and movement of Louis Erard, while the dial is glossy black lacquer that evokes fired enamel. Initial thoughts I appreciate Louis Erard’s consistent focus on making interesting names or techniques affordable; its recent Damascus steel regulator being an example. Some micro-brands or one-man shops do the same for slightly less, particularly for certain decorative techniques, but without the finesse of Louis Erard. A good deal of credit for this goes to Manuel Emch, who oversees Louis Erard and lends his eye to the brand’s creations. The Gravée Main sits squarely in the sweet spot where Louis Erard excels. Admittedly, the ornate look is not for everyone, some might even find it tacky. But I like it; the look is appealing and the execution shows attention to detail. The tone-on-tone lacquered dial is a smart complement to the elaborate case. And that attention to detail is also evident in the engraving, which continues onto both the crown and buckle, which are sometimes overlooked. Price-wise the Gravée Main is pricier than the typical Louis Erard limited edition, bu...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After years of hands-on reviews with American watch brands, these ones stood out for their build quality, fair pricing, and everyday appeal.
Worn & Wound
John Scott Haldane had a problem. Britain’s Royal Navy had commissioned the Scottish physiologist to find a solution for a unique problem facing their divers: decompression. Known since the mid-19th century, decompression sickness (DCS) posed a serious risk for divers and laborers working in pressurized environments, such as caissons. It was his job to develop a set of decompression tables for safe diving operations. It boils down to how gases act under pressure. When breathing a gas mixture at depth - for the sake of simplicity, we will say compressed air, or approximately 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen, with the rest being inert gases - the oxygen is used up by the body, and the nitrogen is absorbed into the bloodstream. This build-up will dissolve as it is effectively off-gassed, as it does when each of us breathes here on the surface. Enter pressure. Should a diver undergo a rapid change in pressure, such as by ascending too quickly, the nitrogen will separate from the blood and form bubbles in the tissues and joints. The resulting pain has a habit of contorting its victims, giving DCS its more readily-known nickname of “the bends.” John Scott Haldane had a problem. Britain’s Royal Navy had commissioned the Scottish physiologist to find a solution for a unique problem facing their divers: decompression. Known since the mid-19th century, decompression sickness (DCS) posed a serious risk for divers and laborers working in pressurized environments, such as caisso...
Teddy Baldassarre
While Switzerland is regarded today as the world leader of watchmaking, Great Britain can lay claim to a wealth of horological milestones throughout its history as well. From Thomas Mudge’s development of the lever escapement in 1755 to John Harrison’s invention of the marine chronometer in 1759 to the innovations of clockmaker Thomas Tompion and his protegé George Graham in the areas of science and astronomy, England was an undisputed leader in timekeeping throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. The 20th century brought the decline of the British Empire and, with it, British watchmaking, as nations like Switzerland, Germany, and (for a while) the United States stepped in with modern mass-production techniques while the Brits held fast to traditional, artisanal methods. The United Kingdom essentially ceased being a major producer of timepieces by the end of World War II, but as the 21st Century dawned, a handful of entrepreneurial Britons have made great strides in bringing high-end watchmaking back to their native land, establishing new brands - and in some cases, resurrecting old ones - to make watches that appeal to today’s discerning enthusiasts in the U.K. and across the world. Whether the focus is military-style tool watches, avant-garde complications at approachable prices, or ultra-high-end pieces for well-heeled collectors, each brand boasts an identity that is proudly British and at the same time distinct from its peers. Here are 15 British watch bran...
Monochrome
The Oris Aquis Date is the brand’s best-selling dive watch. Launched in 2011, revised last year, the Aquis Date was designed as a muscular, water-resistant tool watch with contemporary looks. In line with the brand’s conservation projects, a second Aquis Oris has been selected for the second chapter of the Billion Oyster Project. Issued as […]
Worn & Wound
Back in 2022, we brought you a story on the first watch Oris released to celebrate their partnership with the Billion Oyster Project. That particular Aquis was a real head turner, using mother of pearl in a unique fashion to create a dial meant to conjure the Hudson River. But the more interesting story then, as it is now as Oris releases the long awaited follow up piece, is the one about the Swiss brand’s interest in conservation, and the mission of the Billion Oyster Project. If you need a refresher, the Billion Oyster Project exists to restore New York Harbor’s oyster reefs, and to educate the public on the inherent benefits of this endeavor. A fully grown oyster is, somewhat amazingly, able to filter as much as 50 gallons of water per day. Reintroducing oysters (a billion of them!) into New York waterways has the potential to dramatically clean up those waters in a sustainable and natural way. The founders of the Billion Oyster Project, Murray Fisher and Pete Malinowski, say that they’ve already introduced 150 million oysters into the harbor. They started in 2014, so if you do the math, there’s still plenty of work to be done to get to that billion number, but it’s far from an impossible goal. One of the charms of the Billion Oyster Project is that it is by its very nature a group effort – the organization has a lot of help, and enlists public schools, volunteers, and occasionally a Swiss watch brand to lend a hand. Every time they get in the harbor and a...
Monochrome
Louis Erard has spent the past few years building a reputation as the brand that dares to bring métiers d’art to a broader audience. Where traditional crafts are usually reserved for expensive timepieces, Louis Erard has worked to democratise them, presenting limited series in grand feu enamel, hand-guilloché, and even wood marquetry. Each of these […]
Fratello
Thirty years ago, Chronoswiss founder Gerd Rüdiger Lang created a watch that earned itself a place in the history books. The 1995 38mm Opus CH 7523 was the first serially produced self-winding skeletonized chronograph. The watch was powered by a heavily modified Valjoux 7750 movement and was voted “Watch of the Year” by the readers […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Purple Rain to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Jamie caught up with the FM CEO in the brand's "palatial" new Sydney boutique.The post We chat with Franck Muller CEO Nicholas Rudaz about playful design and haute horlogerie appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Choosing my favorite Datejust wasn’t a simple exercise. From 2021 through most of 2023, I acquired several vintage references. Each one was chosen for a reason. Hard-to-find dials combined with sharp cases and atypical bezels were my game. Two years later, these Datejust models remain as regular options in my wearing rotation. They’re fantastic, fit […] Visit My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
Not too long ago, our editor Brice aimed to answer a fundamental question: what makes a great summer watch? While the answer was not as straightforward as the question might suggest, one of the elements to come full circle is material. In terms of what your watch should be made of, titanium was given as […]
Time+Tide
Vivid colours inspired by both the past and the future find their place in this week’s releases, from Germany, China and Switzerland.The post New releases from Tudor, Glashütte Original, Formex and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
What would you do, as a Chevrolet-employed performance engineer and race car developer, when your employer suddenly decides to cancel all its racing programs in the middle of developing a new car? The most straightforward answer would probably be to change companies, but that’s not what Bill Thomas did. Working under contract with General Motors […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After years of reviewing Casio Watches, we're listing the best one's we've ever reviewed for you to research and learn about right here.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Shreve & Co LED Another week, another cool vintage LED! I honestly don’t know why there are so many of these coming out of the woodwork, but I’m glad they are. This one is a vintage Shreve & Co. with a nice space-age chunky look. The 36.5mm steel case is in great shape with sharp edges and unpolished. The bracelet is original and complements the watch perfectly. The display works and the watch runs as it should. Nice 1970’s goodness from a seldom seen brand. View auction here Vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000 We have a real winner here, a vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000 dress watch. This 61GS epitomizes Grand Seiko’s Grammar of Design aesthetic. The broad planes, sharp edges and mix of brushed and polished finishes is simply sublime. The silver dial is clean and has the classic simple stick markers and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The dauphine hands have gorgeous bevels, a testament to the precise craftsmanship of the Grand Seiko line. The 6146 movement is hi-beat, pulsing at 36000 beats per hour. The deeply grooved crown is original and signed with the GS logo as it should. The gold GS caseback medallion is in really nice condition as well. Really a beautiful piece here. Vie...
Monochrome
Following the recent Ice Blue and Manufacture editions in Green and Blue that Armin Strom presented after the series update in 2022, the brand now reveals a new chapter for its iconic complication, with a warm, higher-end version of the Mirrored Force Resonance, in rose gold with a handsome black guilloche dial. The resonance phenomenon […]
Time+Tide
The young British brand enters the integrated sports watch market with its distinctive style and flair, with four dial options.The post Farer enters the integrated bracelet game with 4 elegant options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Former Seiko ambassador Paul de Gelder's latest show, 'How to Survive a Shark Attack', sees him deliberately encouraging sharks to bite him.The post Australian shark attack survivor Paul de Gelder comes back for a second bite with new documentary series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Earlier this month, Bremont expanded its Supermarine collection by launching the Supermarine 500m Polar White, and now the brand offers the same striking dial paired with the mono-block black ceramic case, the construction introduced in 2024 with the two Supermarine 500m references in Jungle Green and Tactical Black. The 43mm diameter case of the new […]
Fratello
The Essence is one of Formex’s most innovative and all-around watches. It’s also the most popular one because of the specs it features for the price, and its comfortable wearing experience. Today, the brand introduces the Essence Space Ghost in stainless steel and a new 41mm size. But this is not just another Essence that’s […] Visit Introducing The Formex Essence 41mm Space Ghost - A New Medium Size With A Meteorite Dial And Even More Technical Ingenuity to read the full article.
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