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Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 Under the Hammer at Sotheby’s Abu Dhabi SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 27, 2025

Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 Under the Hammer at Sotheby’s Abu Dhabi

The Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 stands as one of the most technically ambitious pocket watches of the modern era. Launched to mark the turn of the millennium, it was the fourth most complicated watch in the world at its debut, but its true significance lies not in numbers, but in the ingenuity of its mechanisms, which redefined how grand complications could be conceived, engineered, and executed. An original complete set of four Star Caliber 2000 watches is being offered for sale by Sotheby’s at its first-ever watch auction in Abu Dhabi, which takes place in December. The first complete set to ever appear publicly, the sale will likely draw significant attention from collectors and institutions alike. The technical significance of the Star Caliber 2000 The Star Caliber 2000 was and is a remarkable achievement in watchmaking, but it was never the world’s most complicated watch. When it debuted, the Star Caliber 2000 ranked fourth in the official tally of complications, behind the Patek Philippe’s own Caliber 89 and the famous Henry Graves Super Complication from 1932, as well as the lesser-known Leroy 01 from 1904. Over the past quarter century, the Star Caliber 2000 has fallen down the rankings as more complicated watches, for both the pocket and the wrist, have been developed by Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. But the Star Caliber 2000 should not be judged solely by this kind of ranking, which is largely superficial. The watch is packed with a number o...

Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More Fratello
Grand Seiko Zenith Oct 24, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re following up last week’s article about ceramic watches with our favorite titanium ones. After all, it just made sense to dive deeper into the world of modern materials used for watches. While titanium has been around for quite a few decades in the watch world, it’s still considered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More to read the full article.

A History and Guide to GMT Watches Worn & Wound
Rolex GMT Master Oct 22, 2025

A History and Guide to GMT Watches

The GMT watch is a bonafide product of the jet age. Though examples of dual-time watches go back to the 19th century, it was the advent of jet-powered commercial aircraft in the 1950s that drove the introduction of this icon of modern watchmaking. Perhaps the best-known example is the Rolex GMT Master, the watch that gave the genre its name. Introduced in 1955 in collaboration with the “World’s Most Experienced Airline,” Rolex designed the watch for Pan-American World Airways pilots that would allow them to have a reference for Greenwich Mean Time (also referred to as UTC or Zulu Time) while maintaining the ability to track local time. This collaboration also resulted in the most recognizable colorway for dual-time watches, Pan-Am’s blue and red colorway.   The GMT watch is a bonafide product of the jet age. Though examples of dual-time watches go back to the 19th century, it was the advent of jet-powered commercial aircraft in the 1950s that drove the introduction of this icon of modern watchmaking. Perhaps the best-known example is the Rolex GMT Master, the watch that gave the genre its name. Introduced in 1955 in collaboration with the “World’s Most Experienced Airline,” Rolex designed the watch for Pan-American World Airways pilots that would allow them to have a reference for Greenwich Mean Time (also referred to as UTC or Zulu Time) while maintaining the ability to track local time. This collaboration also resulted in the most recognizable colorway f...

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 Fratello
Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 Oct 22, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460

By now, we’re accustomed to Panerai and its continuous release schedule during the year. What we didn’t expect was today’s watch, a model with a healthy water resistance rating and a new ceramic case. Oh, and did we mention that the new Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 comes in a 40mm size? Let’s investigate. Just a […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 to read the full article.

Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from the world of cinema with the SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen” Time+Tide
Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from Oct 21, 2025

Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from the world of cinema with the SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen”

This flyback chronograph dive watch's panda dial was inspired by the optical effect that cinema screens used to use for maxmium legibility.The post Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from the world of cinema with the SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko’s Design Project Bears Fruit with the Collection 1 SJX Watches
Seiko s Design Project Bears Oct 21, 2025

Seiko’s Design Project Bears Fruit with the Collection 1

The Seiko Collection 1 is the first commercial release from the brand’s revived Power Design Project. The look revisits the Tissé, one of many popular Seiko designs from the 1980s. A delicate watch on a beaded bracelet, it was a big hit in Japan. Four decades later, its spirit returns in a compact, unisex format designed to be worn loosely like jewellery. Designed by Yuya Suganuma, the Collection 1 debuts as a 500-piece limited edition in each of three colours, blending typical Seiko build quality with a playful, accessory-first design. Initial thoughts For much of the Swiss watch industry, the 1980s was an era marked by the painful triumph of quartz technology. But on the other side of the world, quartz pioneer Seiko was thriving. The brand’s catalogues of the era reflects the optimism of the moment with an astonishing number of interesting designs, many of which have been reimagined over the years; we’ll likely see more of them in the future. The Tissé was one such model, introduced as a ladies watch in 1984. A tiny watch on a beaded steel bracelet, the Tissé was designed to be worn loosely, and became a big hit in the home market. The Tissé was eventually discontinued, but the concept was reimagined in 2022 as part of the brand’s re-launched Power Design Project, an internal design initiative with the theme of “rebirth”. The watch that would become the Collection 1 drew attention for questioning traditional norms for wristwatch ergonomics. It was designe...

Fratello On Air: The Best-Value Used Watches Fratello
Oct 21, 2025

Fratello On Air: The Best-Value Used Watches

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we talk about the best-value used watches. Of course, this isn’t an exhaustive list but just a sampling of some great pre-owned picks. If you’re expecting the usual suspects, prepare to be surprised. Enjoy the show! This podcast player is blocked because you did […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Best-Value Used Watches to read the full article.

Introducing: The Steel And Gold Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Deep Ruby Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Oct 21, 2025

Introducing: The Steel And Gold Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Deep Ruby

In the current watch landscape, Parmigiani Fleurier has a special position. The brand’s standout designs and clever use of colors have earned it much praise. I admire what Parmigiani has achieved, so I am always curious to find out what is next. For its newest creation, the Parmigiani team decided to spice up the 36mm […] Visit Introducing: The Steel And Gold Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Deep Ruby to read the full article.

Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow Fratello
Hermes Oct 20, 2025

Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow

Hermès surprised us a couple of years ago when the French fashion house launched a chronograph among its colorful time-and-date H08 editions. Stealth-launching products is not new for Hermès. The low-key tactic allows clients to discover new pieces for themselves without a deluge of flashy hype campaigns. The gentle marketing ripple in the brand’s horology […] Visit Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow to read the full article.

In-Depth: Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” Movement Cal. 4132 SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” Movement Oct 20, 2025

In-Depth: Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” Movement Cal. 4132

The cal. 4132 inside the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” is a rare evolution of one of the most revered chronograph movements in modern watchmaking. Based on the long-running cal. 4130 platform, the new movement was developed specifically for the Daytona “Le Mans” unveiled in 2023 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the famed endurance race. While visually similar to the cal. 4131 found in current-production Daytonas, the cal. 4132 incorporates a clever mechanical upgrade that allows it to record up to 24 hours of elapsed time. Given the relatively simple upgrade from a 12-hour to 24-hour counter, the cal. 4132 might seem like a weekend project for a brand with the engineering might of Rolex, but the reality is more nuanced. To achieve this, Rolex engineered a compact differential gear set that doubles the timing capacity without altering the core movement architecture, leaving the movement dimensions unchanged. As with many Rolex innovations, the cal. 4132 reflects the brand’s quiet obsession with functional longevity and serviceability. The latest Daytona movements reveal a degree of decorative finishing unseen in past generations of Rolex movements An already quirky base For over two decades, the Rolex cal. 4130 stood as the benchmark for industrial chronograph movements. Launched in 2000, the cal. 4130 was the first in-house chronograph movement developed by Rolex. The movement was lauded for its compact architecture, low component count, and ease of service – a...

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Oct 20, 2025

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode

On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand’s materials engineer. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths. Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it’s not made of titanium, it’s a strong third act (and a hint of what’s next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Introducing: The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision - Carbon, Lume, And Tactical Cool Fratello
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision - Oct 19, 2025

Introducing: The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision - Carbon, Lume, And Tactical Cool

Bell & Ross’s X series has been one of the brand’s most interesting evolutions to follow. The BR-X1 was pure concept-watch territory, a showcase for skeletonized tourbillons and high-end engineering that pushed the brand into experimental horology. Then came the BR-X5, a more accessible, sporty, and urban expression of the same design DNA. The BR-X3, […] Visit Introducing: The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision - Carbon, Lume, And Tactical Cool to read the full article.

Introducing - The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm California Dial Monochrome
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm Oct 17, 2025

Introducing - The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm California Dial

Alpina gained a head start in the sports watch market in 1938 with its Alpina 4, a robust model featuring shock and water-resistant properties, anti-magnetic capabilities, and a sturdy steel case. The heavy-duty Alpiner Extreme, revamped in 2022, is the rightful heir of the Alpina 4. Designed for outdoor adventures, the Alpiner Extreme is also […]

Serica Doubles Down On Vintage Charm With The Parade Ref. 1174 Linen Series Fratello
Serica Doubles Down Oct 16, 2025

Serica Doubles Down On Vintage Charm With The Parade Ref. 1174 Linen Series

Late last year, Serica released the stylish Parade ref. 1174. It was the French brand’s first step in the realm of dress watches, and it garnered much praise. Now, Serica takes the Parade a step further with two linen dials, transporting us to the 1960s and ’70s, when linen dials were common in the watch […] Visit Serica Doubles Down On Vintage Charm With The Parade Ref. 1174 Linen Series to read the full article.

Ulysse Nardin Illuminates the Freak S with Flinqué Enamel SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Illuminates Oct 16, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Illuminates the Freak S with Flinqué Enamel

Ulysse Nardin has revealed a new take on its flagship complication, the Freak S Enamel, now offered with a silvery titanium case and with the choice of either red or turquoise translucent flinqué enamel over an engine-turned guilloché dial. While mechanically unchanged, the cleaner case design and high-gloss dial plate transform the overall visual impression and intensify the focus on the central carousel, which serves as both the time display and the heart of the movement. A limited edition of 50 pieces in each colour, the enamel edition is the fourth member of the Freak S family, which was launched in 2022 as a higher-end, dual-balance evolution of the Freak Vision. Initial thoughts Since its debut a quarter century ago, the Freak collection has given Ulysse Nardin (UN) freedom to push the boundaries of movement design. While the usually crownless case and central carousel have become familiar over the years, each iteration still manages to feel like an experiment. The new enamel edition is the most aesthetically restrained Freak S yet; paradoxically, it also feels the most luxurious, trading exotic material combinations for polished titanium and brightly coloured enamel. The result is a watch that feels as radical as ever, but more refined. The 45 mm case, for example, is the simplest Freak S case to date: no carbon flanks, and no PVD coating. The traditional brushed and polished finish helps the large case fade into the background to allow the enamel dial and starshi...

4 Great Dive Watches Under $500 from Least to Most Expensive Worn & Wound
Oct 15, 2025

4 Great Dive Watches Under $500 from Least to Most Expensive

In this video, Devin sits down with our shop manager, Ricardo, to look at four different dive watch options, each under $500, that offer specifications capable of being taken on a diving trip. While the first pick may be an oldie but goodie, the rest may surprise you. What other sub-$500 watches would you consider in this category? In this video, Devin sits down with our shop manager, Ricardo, to look at four different dive watch options, each under $500, that offer specifications capable of being taken on a diving trip. While the first pick may be an oldie but goodie, the rest may surprise you. What other sub-$500 watches would you consider in this category? The post 4 Great Dive Watches Under $500 from Least to Most Expensive appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing: The Isotope Flyway Fata Morgana - A Mirror-Polished Optical Illusion Fratello
Isotope Flyway Fata Morgana - Oct 15, 2025

Introducing: The Isotope Flyway Fata Morgana - A Mirror-Polished Optical Illusion

The Flyway Fata Morgana is the latest addition to Isotope’s collection of characterful, design-first watches. Inspired by the rare optical phenomenon in which land and sky appear to merge, it represents perhaps more of a poetic concept than a mere wristwatch. This new 36mm model introduces a mirror-polished titanium dial to an already rather exotic […] Visit Introducing: The Isotope Flyway Fata Morgana - A Mirror-Polished Optical Illusion to read the full article.

Blancpain Facelifts the Villeret Quantieme Complet 6654 SJX Watches
Blancpain Facelifts Oct 15, 2025

Blancpain Facelifts the Villeret Quantieme Complet 6654

As the first complication launched by the revived Blancpain in 1983, the triple calendar with moon phase is arguably the brand’s signature. Now Blancpain has reveal the latest generation of the model, the Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune. The new version is primarily a cosmetic facelift, which includes a blue ceramic moon phase disc, but it builds on solid foundations. The model retains the innovative and patented under-lug correctors for the calendar that make for easier setting and a clean case outline. The new Villeret Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune (centre) is being launched alongside the the Quantième Phases de Lune, a 33.2 mm model for ladies (left), and Extraplate, the time-and-date base model (right), both of which have been similarly facelifted. Initial thoughts The triple calendar is a simple complication, but functions and aesthetically pleasing in the traditional layout that Blancpain employs. Though it is widely found across brands, Blancpain probably offers the most advanced triple calendar watches on the market thanks to its sophisticated movements. And Blancpain manages to do so at a reasonably competitive price relative to its peers. At a distance, the facelifted models look pretty much identical to the earlier generation – a good thing if you like the look, but the classical style might look dated to some. I find the aesthetic appealing, especially with details like the serpentine date hand and recessed dates scale. The facelift...

Retro Dive Watches Are Suffering From An Identity Crisis: They All Look The Same! Fratello
Tudor Black […] Visit Retro Oct 15, 2025

Retro Dive Watches Are Suffering From An Identity Crisis: They All Look The Same!

A retro watch is a modern watch evoking a style from a bygone era - usually, in the case of dive watches, the 1950s and ’60s. It’s hard to pinpoint exactly when the “Retro Age” began in the watch world, but I don’t think we’re far off by considering the introduction of the Tudor Black […] Visit Retro Dive Watches Are Suffering From An Identity Crisis: They All Look The Same! to read the full article.

Zenith Defies Gravity (Again) to Mark 160 Years SJX Watches
Zenith Defies Gravity Again Oct 14, 2025

Zenith Defies Gravity (Again) to Mark 160 Years

Zenith’s 160th anniversary celebration continues with the Defy Zero G, a sapphire-cased watch equipped with the brand’s latest generation, gimbal-like “Gravity Control” escapement module. Available in either clear or deep blue sapphire – both with a lapis lazuli dial – the 46 mm anniversary model is a literal showcase for the innovative cal. 8812 S, which features a gimballed escapement platform that keeps the balance wheel in a horizontal position at all times. Originally developed in 2008 and refined in 2018, the Zero G mechanism is a modern homage to Zenith’s legacy in competitive chronometry and marine navigation. Initial thoughts Today, the Zenith brand is synonymous with the El Primero chronograph movement, launched back in 1969. But outside of that, the manufacture has always been a major force in Swiss precision watchmaking. For decades the brand regularly took home the top prizes at chronometry trials from Neuchâtel and Teddington. Zenith already paid tribute to its past success in competitive chronometry with the G.F.J. cal. 135, which also features a lapis lazuli dial, but it’s reassuring to see the brand made time to bring out one of its more recent developments for its anniversary year. While the days of chronometry trials are long past, Zenith has still managed to make a name for itself when it comes to the accuracy of wrist-worn timepieces - at least theoretically. Back in 2008 the brand unveiled a curious mechanism, with the escapement fu...

The IWC Ingenieur Touring In The Wilds Of Tasmania WatchAdvice
IWC Ingenieur Touring Oct 13, 2025

The IWC Ingenieur Touring In The Wilds Of Tasmania

The IWC Ingenieur is one versatile watch. So we took it touring through Tasmania for a week in a very different style of watch article with some great watch shots, not to mention some epic scenery! I love travelling, and I love watches. It’s not often that you can combine the two together, and take a week where you just travel and enjoy a watch, take photos and tell people about the experience of both. And when it comes to our Hands On Reviews, it’s normally around town, day to day, which, let’s face it, is where watches get worn the most for most people, so it’s perfect in that regard. But sometimes, it is good to do something a little different. Let’s get out and about with a watch and see some places, and in doing so, have a watch that could be a constant companion while I explore the best Australia has to offer. So, that thought in mind, this is not a review. It is part travel blog, part watch review and part photo gallery. I wanted to chronicle my travels with a watch as a daily companion, and at the end, see how I felt after having a selected piece on my wrist day to day, in a part of the country that is very different to where I normally live… The Inspiration & Destination After some thought, I settled on one of the few places I had not been to in Australia – Tasmania. Known for its wilderness, contrasting countryside, the arts and its food, Tasmania felt like the right place to head to. It had a mix of cosmopolitan life in Hobart and Launceston, the r...

SJX Podcast: MB&F; Gives Away Anniversary Editions SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2025

SJX Podcast: MB&F; Gives Away Anniversary Editions

On episode 13 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX discuss MB&F;’s decision to give away 20 free watches – 10 pieces of a new LM101 Longhorn for Tribe members and 10 pieces of a matching M.A.D.1S for prior raffle registrants. It’s a move that’s generated a lot of buzz, and a little bit of consternation, but regardless it’s a remarkable offer from one of the more successful independent brands of its era. Also discussed is the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds which just got upgraded with a new solid 18k pink gold dial. Is it still competitive nearly a decade after launch? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Rolex 5513 Submariner Review: The Timeless Vintage Rolex? Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex 5513 Submariner Review Oct 11, 2025

Rolex 5513 Submariner Review: The Timeless Vintage Rolex?

In the world of Rolex, most people’s minds go straight to rarity, unattainability, and exclusivity. And in so many cases that rings true – except (and you may find this hard to believe) for the Submariner. That’s right, Rolex’s stalwart and most ubiquitous watch is also, kind of, its most accessible on the secondary market… and I am talking vintage and neovintage here. Sure, there are rare examples like Explorer dials (we will get to that in a bit), and early ref. 1680 Red Submariners that fetch a pretty penny at auction or from a vintage dealer. But there’s a very real reason for that. Those watches in particular fall into a bucket shared by many collectible rarities: They were only produced for a very short period of time. But there were many variations of vintage Subs, some rarer than others. And some still that weren’t rare at all. And the best example of that is the Rolex 5513, a Submariner model so common that it was one of Rolex’s most popular and best selling over the course of its – wait for it – 17-year run. Rolex 5513 History The Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 was in production from 1962 until 1989, and while there are some pockets of special ref. 5513 models within that run, it is for the most part of one the brand’s longest-selling and most-produced Submariners, or even sports watches full stop (the Explorer ref. 1016 has entered the chat). In 1962, Rolex had been producing its Submariner reference 5512 for about three years. The 5512 was a n...

eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Hamilton, Grand Seiko, Omega, and More! Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Omega Oct 10, 2025

eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Hamilton, Grand Seiko, Omega, and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Hamilton 14k Gold Watch First up this week is a classic and stylish vintage 1971 Hamilton dress watch in 14k yellow gold. The 33.5mm solid gold case is unpolished, with crisp edges. The caseback is engraved with a 25 year service award inscription from Eaton. The dial is clean and simple, with a nice sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The original crown is signed with the Hamilton logo. The watch comes with the original Hamilton signed lizard strap, and it all comes in the original box with papers! The case is a front loading type, so no movement pictures, but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Vintage 1950s Benrus  Here we have another small dress watch, but this one is gold filled and a little more ‘sporty’. This vintage Benrus 3 Star has a cool dial, with alternating Arabic numerals and thin arrows for hour markers, coupled with lume filled hands. The 33mm yellow gold filled case looks sharp, and has a steel screw in back. There is no movement picture, but the seller states the watch runs well. Nice little every day type of watch from an under-rated brand that should fit into any watch budget. View auction here Omega Constellation  Next up is a whopp...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Land-Dweller Alternatives Fratello
Rolex Land-Dweller Alternatives Another Friday Oct 10, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Land-Dweller Alternatives

Another Friday, another list! After three weeks of affordable watches, it’s time for a change. Today, we want to focus on the newest Rolex collection. To be more precise, we want to look at alternatives to the Rolex Land-Dweller. Six months ago, The Crown unveiled the new Land-Dweller collection during Watches and Wonders. Since then, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Land-Dweller Alternatives to read the full article.