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Monochrome
Minerva, founded as H. & C. Robert in 1858 in the Swiss Jura village of Villeret and renamed Minerva SA in 1929, remains one of the great guardians of traditional chronograph craftsmanship. Its first chronograph movement, the Calibre 19-9, debuted in 1908, and for over 165 years, its workshops have produced some of the finest […]
Worn & Wound
I occasionally find myself looking for a good excuse to write about some of my favorite watches, as doing so with some context feels too self-satisfying. This excuse can be a guide, a group editorial, or, as in the case today, a marginally new version of an existing watch that I adore, but haven’t had the chance to divulge my feelings on adequately. That watch is the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, as today, Lange has announced the Zeitwerk Date in rose gold. While certainly exciting for people who said, “If only this watch came in rose gold” as a topic for a whole article, a new case metal is a bit lacking. Conveniently, I have a lot to say about the Zeitwerk in general. There was a time not that long ago when asked what my “grail watch” was, my default answer was the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. Why? Few watches mix the classic and the contemporary quite so well. They’re unique, handsome, and ooze tasteful luxury. They aren’t blingy or ostentatious. Additionally, nearly any watch enthusiast appreciates them, so it was an answer that didn’t require much explanation. However, as my knowledge of watches has grown, another aspect has emerged that I find fascinating: the complexity it takes to create something that seems so simple. If jump hours are a rare complication, jump minutes are unicorns. The only other I’m aware of is the IWC Tribute to Pallweber. Although the idea seems simple enough, making a disk jump once a minute, two disks every ten, and three disk...
Teddy Baldassarre
When it comes to watch consumers' interest, there has over the past several years been a rising level of interest in watch brands that deviate from what might be viable for the mass market luxury watch brands but appeal to a niche but passionate audience. These so-called microbrands have represented one of the fastest-growing segments of the mechanical watch market, in which small shops can produce quality products that compete for connoisseurs' attention with the titans of the business. In the past several years, we've handled hundreds of watches from different microbrands out there; In this blog, we take a closer look at some of the best microbrand watches that the market has to offer in a variety of price ranges. What makes a Microbrand Watch? Now first, it is important to try to best classify what a microbrand is and what it isn’t. To me, a microbrand is a limited-production watch company that typically specializes in a particular style that does not have extensive resources to produce its own in-house calibers or other proprietary parts. This classification can get a little grey in the area of independent watchmakers that typically either have higher levels of watchmaking, like a Habring2, who have a master watchmaker like Richard Habring at the helm, or are a brand like Christopher Ward, who produce a high number of pieces and has in-house production capacities. The Best Microbrand Watches: The Latest Additions Santurce A microbrand with a strong Puerto Rican per...
Monochrome
Chopard, for most of our readers, is the name behind collections such as the Mille Miglia, the Alpine Eagle, and the top-end L.U.C watches, products overseen by co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. With its own foundry and jewellery workshop in Geneva, the feminine side of the brand, represented by high jewellery collections and women’s watches, is in […]
Quill & Pad
Thanks to its bezel, as Dietmar W. Fuchs explains, the diver's watch is a much more versatile timepiece than many people think. Aside from teaching you how to use it on land, in the skies, and under water, here he answers the perennial question of who made the first true diver's watch: Blancpain, Rolex, or Panerai.
Fratello
In 2009, the German brand A. Lange & Söhne surprised the world with a mechanical digital watch based on a clock in an opera house in Dresden. A decade later, the watchmakers from Glashütte in Saxonia presented an even more digital version of that watch, the white gold Zeitwerk Date. Why was it more digital? […] Visit Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold With A Gray Dial to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Lange expands the Zeitwerk range with a new date model in rose gold, a material the German brand uses curiously infrequently.The post A. Lange & Söhne wraps the Zeitwerk Date in rose gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
When I think of CIGA Design, the first thing that immediately comes to mind is the brand’s highly successful Blue Planet. The watch is not only instantly recognizable, but it has also won numerous prizes. Still, there is another side to the CIGA Design that is far more modern and futuristic. The new Z Series […] Visit Introducing: The Futuristic CIGA Design Z Series Hunter Automatic Skeleton to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
It’s dark, it’s stealthy, and it’s bold. But it’s a lot of fun! The new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Shadow is built for those who love some adventure. So we put it to the test… What We Love The muted matte shadow look The lightweight construction The ease of wear for a larger watch What We Don’t Lack of micro-adjust The ‘give’ in the bezel The taper of the bracelet isn’t as balanced as it could be Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The Zenith Diver dates back to the early 1960s when the Le Locle brand designed and released the Super Sub Sea. But, it wasn’t until 1969 when the Defy Diver was released that Zenith had hit on a good thing. The Defy A3648 was a bold watch, and its design codes echoed those of the time. This watch is what the Zenith Defy Diver Revival is modelled after, which Mario took out for a spin last year. However, Zenith didn’t have a deep diver or saturation dive watch like many others out there. Think of the likes of the Rolex Sea-Dweller and the Omega Planet Ocean. So last year, the brand released a new watch – the Defy Extreme Diver in both blue and black colourways that would recify the gap in the market. It had all the hallmarks of the Zenith Defy range, closely mirroring that of the Defy Skyline, but just a little more bold and robust. So it was no surprise that the brand looked at this watch, along with the A3648 and decided to release a pair of “Shadow” e...
Revolution
Gentleman, scholar and life-long watch fan Marion Morrison – better known as John Wayne, or John “Duke” Wayne – was the toughest cowboy of them all.
Worn & Wound
Just over a month ago, several of our contributors, myself included, penned an article about our favorite summer watches. While we each had a personal preference and strong reasoning behind our choices, it got me thinking about my summer EDC, and how it changes as temps begin to rise. Throughout winter and spring, I tend to carry larger pocket knives, but I find myself reaching for lighter options as the temperature and humidity increases. While they’re just as capable as anything else, these lighter blades carry more comfortably in shorts, and I even forget I’m carrying them sometimes. With this in mind, I thought it might be a good idea to list out some of my favorite summer EDC knives and why I reach for them. Before we dive in, let’s look over the parameters I used to select these knives. I think one of the most ambiguous qualities that I’ll talk about is “lightweight”. While there isn’t a set standard and everyone is likely to have their own opinions, I’m using 2.5 ounces (70ish grams for my metric friends) as my max weight. As I’d come to find out while verifying the weight of my included knives, many of the staple EDC options fall under this weight! Using this weight also prevents me from sneaking in some of those heavier knives that I enjoy so much. Secondly, the knife has to be safe to carry in your pocket. While a single utility blade is very lightweight, having an exposed, sharp edge in your pocket just seems like a terrible idea. Along these l...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko Prospex SRPE93, the most recent version of the legendary Seiko Turtle dive watch, hit the market relatively recently, in 2021, but its lineage can be traced all the way back to the 1970s. What makes this defiantly retro-looking tool watch such a favorite of enthusiasts even today? There’s a lot more to it than the very accessible price point, as we’ll explore here in this in-depth examination - or, a look under the shell, if you will - of the SRPE93 “Turtle.” Seiko, the world’s oldest and most established Japanese watchmaking brand, was one of the pioneers of the dive-watch genre and it has long stood apart from its Swiss contemporaries in this field (i.e. Rolex, Blancpain, and others) for its use of bold and unconventional designs. One of its most off-the-wall and yet most enduringly popular designs is the original "Turtle” - aka, Ref. 6306 and 6309 - which made its debut in 1976. The former reference was made exclusively for the Japanese market (and thus, vintage examples are much rarer and more valuable), and the latter was sold to international customers. The reptilian nickname derived from the watches’ cushion-shaped cases with softly rounded lugs, which brought to mind the silhouette of a turtle when viewed from above. The reference numbers for the watches essentially matched those of their automatic movements - Caliber 6306A, which included hacking seconds and Caliber 6309A, which did not. The Turtle’s unusual look and rugged ...
Time+Tide
To NATO or not to NATO? That is the question...The post PSA: stop forcing NATO straps on your dressy watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Founded in 1737, Favre Leuba is one of the few names in Swiss watchmaking that carries such a rich vintage sport-chic DNA. The brand is renowned for its robust designs and innovative approach, from iconic dive watches to distinctive cushion-shaped urban timepieces, such as the Chief. Revived in recent years with thoughtful updates, the Chief […]
Fratello
In recent times, TAG Heuer has done a great job of balancing modern-looking Monaco releases with others that tell the great racing stories from the past. By doing so, the brand caters to a varied audience. I lean heavily into the Monaco’s historical side because that’s where I find the romance of this classic. So […] Visit Hands-On With The Cool Retro TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Back in April, Porsche Design quietly hosted an event that gave the press the opportunity to go hands-on with a selection of current offerings and upcoming launches across its merchandise, sunglasses, luggage, and, of course, watch collections. This was a rare opportunity given that, apart from occasional meetups or the secondary market, there has been no simple way to physically put your hands on a Porsche Design watch. That is until now, as Porsche Design has announced a new retail partnership with Watches of Switzerland, allowing enthusiasts to shop the collection physically. Alongside that announcement, and perhaps more pertinent to our readers, Porsche Design has debuted a new Chronograph 1 1975 Limited Edition model that I spent some hands-on time with at that earlier event. Exactly 50 years ago, Porsche Design released an uncoated version of the original Chronograph, to which this model pays tribute. That model was meant to complement the all-black 1972 Chronograph 1 model, as this new version is intended to complement the modern all-black version that was released in commemoration back in 2022. One key change here, though, is in the chosen material. While the original 1975 uncoated Chronograph 1 was crafted in steel, this new version has been machined from titanium, still uncoated but bead blasted for finish. It will offer slightly warmer hues and a lighter weight-wearing experience than the original, but it will still deliver a similar vibe with a modern twist...
Fratello
If David Candaux is a new name for you in watchmaking, you’re probably not alone! I hadn’t heard of him and his eponymous brand before March. Fortunately, Phillips held an event in London featuring a handful of up-and-coming Haute Horlogerie independents. It was there that I met David and saw several of his watches. Even […] Visit Introducing: The David Candaux DC7 Blue Hawk to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Earlier this month, Windup Watch Fair returned to Chicago, marking the 10th anniversary of the Windup series with a three-day celebration that packed Venue West with energy, excitement, and a thriving community of watch lovers. From July 11–13, the West Loop space pulsed with the sounds of winding crowns, rotating bezels, and passionate conversation. As always, the event was free and open to the public, drawing everyone from longtime collectors and industry insiders to curious newcomers discovering mechanical timekeeping for the first time. Over 70 brands filled the space, and this year’s Fair felt more expansive and dynamic than ever. Among the standout moments were the lead sponsor installations, which showcased the diverse spirit of the Fair. Atelier Wen’s “Perception” model, featuring hand-engraved guilloché dials and a homegrown micro-rotor movement, was a fan favorite, embodying the blend of artistry and innovation that Windup thrives on. Just across the room, Citizen celebrated 40 years of its legendary Aqualand with a special anniversary edition that tied directly into a live recording of The Worn & Wound Podcast that explored Citizen’s dive legacy and the corresponding Windup in a Lake dive expedition in Lake Michigan. Casio’s presence this year centered on the MTGB4000, a tech-forward G-SHOCK that balanced extreme durability with sleek presentation. Christopher Ward’s C60 Trident Reef, meanwhile, drew curious glances and engaged discussions with ...
Monochrome
When Löbner announced its return in 2023, after nearly 80 years of absence, it reignited a legacy of precision timing born in Prussian workshops in the 19th century. From the pioneering “Tertienzähler” that could measure hundredths of a second as early as 1881, to massive clocks that timed thousandths of a second, Löbner made its […]
Deployant
Louis Vuitton announces 20 semi-finalists for the 2025-2026 edition of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives
Teddy Baldassarre
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono hit the market, somewhat unexpectedly, in 2017, boldly elevating the already red-hot Black Bay collection into a new tier of horological prestige and marking the debut of a collaboration (again, rather unexpected) between Rolex-owned Tudor and its Swiss sport-watch competitor Breitling. Nearly a decade later, the model still represents the highest level of complication in Tudor’s 21st-Century lineup, and yet this Tudor chronograph also remains very manageable, as a subfamily, in terms of material, size, and colorway options - an area in which the larger Black Bay collection, some might argue, has gone a bit far in the opposite direction, now encompassing three distinctive iterations: original Black Bay, Black Bay 58, and Black Bay 54 (which we reviewed here), all touting different sizing and multiple colorways and materials. And this doesn’t even include the other “complicated” extension of the line, the Black Bay GMT, which recently debuted in the “58” sizing and which seems to unveil a new bicolor bezel or dial color every year since its 2018 debut. Originally called the Heritage Black Bay - as it was clearly an homage to vintage dive watches from Tudor’s watchmaking history, which began in 1946 - the OG Black Bay model traces its aesthetic roots to the Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous Submariner watch. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the ...
Fratello
According to the World Gold Council, 216,265 tonnes of gold have been mined throughout history. About 66% of that was mined after 1950! The Council also put this gigantic number in perspective by indicating that all the mined gold in the world would fit a cube measuring approximately 22 meters (73 feet) on each side. […] Visit Wearing Wealth: The Truth About Gold Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Just launched earlier this year, the Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001 is the latest in a long line of perpetual calendars with retrograde date, dating to 1993 in the modern day and even further with vintage watches. Though essentially identical in terms of function and display, the ref. 6159G is the most modern take on the concept to date, while being entirely improved in terms of the movement and case. The key elements that distinguish the ref. 6159G are the dial and case: the translucent sapphire dial is tinted in grey and black, while the case sports a bezel and case back finished with clous de Paris guilloche. It’s an unusual combination, but appealing overall, although some elements, like the generous dose of lume, feel out of place. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s catalogue is still mostly classically oriented, with watches like the Calatrava ref. 6196P capturing the traditional Patek Philippe style. But the brand has been moving towards a more modern aesthetic. Not all the attempts in the direction have been successful, but the ref. 6159G fortunately manages to do it well. Being modern in flavour also sets the ref. 6159G apart from its predecessors like the ref. 5159. While earlier generations of the retrograde perpetual calendar were fairly evolutionary in style, the ref. 6159G is visually unique. Fundamentally, the ref. 6159G is not exceptionally novel – but it looks good. The hobnail bezel and sapphire dial is a surprising combi...
Time+Tide
This artisanal gem-set Imperiale combines lavish métiers d'art with a unique, slow-moving complication.The post Chopard gracefully slows down the pace with the stunning new Imperiale Four Seasons appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Before I get into the top 10 watch brands in India, it’s worth talking about the Indian watch market overall. This is because even in the face of some regional slowdown, India has become one of the fastest growing markets for Swiss watch exports with an astounding 25% increase in 2025, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Brands like Rado, Longines, and Montblanc are as popular as ever in India, but what about the state of watchmaking in India? Well, it’s a bit of a mixed bag, and there are a few things we need to understand before getting into the my selections for the top 10 watch brands in India. First, India is not yet at the level of having a watchmaking infrastructure like that of China. The basic history of Indian watchmaking begins with the nationalized HMT in the 1960s and '70s, but the quartz revolution had a big, negative impact on mechanical watchmaking in the country. I’d say 2015 marked a change in the landscape of Indian watches, when microbrands for enthusiasts began to pick up in popularity. Again, while the infrastructure to manufacture movement components and parts in India is still not there, the passion for history and design has propelled some brands as hometown enthusiast darlings. I spent quite a bit of time researching this topic, and I do want to shout out YouTubers WatchgyanHindi and Watch and More India who are making some compelling Hindi content for the South Asian watch enthusiast community. In this list of the ...
SJX Watches
Continuing with its focus on unique, custom-order watches, Jaquet Droz’s latest brings together art, film and watchmaking. Commissioned by an unnamed collector (who presumably loves J.R.R. Tolkien’s tales), the Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe” stands as a fine example of Swiss watchmaker’s ability to blend artistic crafts with technical watchmaking. It reprises an earlier commission that similarly united The Lord of the Rings and Jaquet Droz watchmaking. Initial thoughts Custom-made one-offs are not uncommon in the world of high horology, with collectors regularly commissioning unique timepieces from both independent and established makers. Most of George Daniels’ creations were commissions, as were the ultra-complicated pocket watches delivered by Vacheron Constantin to a certain Mr Berkley. Unlike other brands, however, Jaquet Droz is now largely specialised in custom or bespoke commissions. It also takes a different and unique approach by collaborating with both the client and an artist of the client’s choosing in making wearable pieces of art. Here the artist John Howe, the Canadian illustrator who was responsible for visualising Tolkien’s fantasy world for the novels and later became artistic director of The Lord of the Rings film series. The timepiece reproduces an artwork created by Mr Howe as a large scale painting that was then was adapted to wristwatch format. Beyond the impressive miniature painting and pedigree of the motif, the watch stands firm...
Worn & Wound
Here in the wild year of 2025, you can buy watches made from all sorts of sci-fi sounding materials: titaniums of all types, fancy plastics, stalwarts like stainless steels, and yes, bio-ceramics. Casio and their iconic built-tough subbrand, G-SHOCK, have never been strangers to experimenting with the affordable end of material innovation, and in a new collaboration with environmental nonprofit The Surfrider Foundation Japan, they’ve taken up bio-based resin and mixed-color molding to create the new G5600SFJ-9. As is the case with all of G-SHOCK’s watches, the G5600SFJ-9 boasts a plethora of durability-first features. The brand’s Tough Solar and Super Illuminator tech power the digital readout, while the case enjoys shock resistance and 200 meters of water resistance. G-SHOCK fans will be pleased to see expected functions like a 48-city world timer, a 1/100-second stopwatch, a countdown timer, daily and hourly alarms and time signals, and both 12 and 24-hour time formatting. While none of this is particularly groundbreaking, it is reassuring to see G-SHOCK’s consistency across their frequent collaborations. Speaking of collaboration, The Surfrider Foundation Japan-a marine-focused nonprofit that celebrates the intersection of conservation and surfer lifestyle-lends its logo and #oceanfriendlylifestyle slogan to the face, caseback, and band loop. For thematic cohesion, the watch’s bright yellow hue is intended to bring to mind a sunrise on the coastline, and...
Monochrome
Oris’ beloved Divers Sixty-Five series has been charming fans of laid-back, vintage-inspired dive watches for over a decade now. First revived in 2015 to celebrate the Hölstein-based brand’s iconic 1965 dive watch, this collection has since grown into a full family of neo-retro divers and sporty daily wearers, always blending mid-century charm with modern mechanics. […]
Worn & Wound
The Omega Seamaster is one of the most enduring of watch collections. Over the course of decades, it’s become akin to a household name, as long as your household includes at least one watch collector, or a fan of Pierce Brosnan or Daniel Craig era James Bond. It’s also one of the most fussed over of all sports watches. As popular as it is, it seems like fans of the collection (and its detractors, of course) always have gripes. That’s watches, obviously. But the overwhelming variety in Seamaster World over many years lends itself to sniping about the smallest details. The latest entry into the collection, a new Diver 300M in orange ($6,500), keeps the tradition alive. It’s a bit of a misnomer, I think, to call this an “orange” watch. The watch is black, with notable orange accents on the seconds hand, the cardinal hour markers, and the strap. Like other recent Seamaster releases (the bronze-gold burgundy release from earlier this year, the James Bond 60th anniversary watch from 2022, and last year’s monochromatic releases teased by Daniel Craig at the Olympics) this one features an aluminum bezel and no date complication. It also forgoes the wave dial for a more subtle, lightly grained matte black. It’s all quite subdued for a watch supposedly defined by citrus. Much of the commentary around this watch in the days since its unveiling centers on the bezel. It seems many would have preferred an orange bezel that would have clearly evoked the classic Planet...
Monochrome
With its continuing pursuit of offering aesthetic variations of unconventional mechanical design, Ulysse Nardin expands its Blast Free Wheel series with the new Blast Free Wheel Maillechort. The concept was introduced in 2018 with the Executive Tourbillon Skeleton Free Wheel and UN added spectacular limited editions with exotic dials a year later, and a Blast […]
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