Hodinkee
Hands-On: Breguet's New Classique 7225 Features Some Of The Industry's Most Impressive Watchmaking
Technicality and beautiful design is what Breguet was all about, today as much as 250 years ago.
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Hodinkee
Technicality and beautiful design is what Breguet was all about, today as much as 250 years ago.
Monochrome
Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected names in independent watchmaking. Since founding his atelier in 2002 in the Swiss Jura, the Finnish-born genius has been creating timepieces that combine the best of traditional craftsmanship with true mechanical ingenuity. His watches won’t be mistaken for someone else’s work, with elaborate guilloché dials, exceptional finishing […]
Monochrome
A conundrum shared by watchmakers for centuries concerns the issue of constant force, or how to produce a steady, unwavering stream of power from the mainspring to the regulating organ to prevent rate variations and maintain amplitude consistency. The big question is how? Taking the bull by the horns, Girard-Perregaux tackled the dilemma with the […]
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking presented relatively few genuinely new releases in 2025. Many watchmakers instead reintroduced familiar models in new configurations or colourways - an approach typically associated with larger brands. The strongest releases were excellent, but they were few and far between. Our highlights reflect that: Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch stood out for its confidence and momentum, while Petermann Bédat and Raúl Pagès showed there is still room to say something new within the time-only format. Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon – SJX When I first heard about Urban Jürgensen being revived, I was sceptical. Could an investor halfway across the world and a watchmaker busy with his own brand pull it off? As it turned out, they could. The Rosenfields, Andy and Alex, father and son, and Kari Voutilainen, managed to put together a collection of three watches – all impressively conceived and executed – and then deliver a good number of watches in the months since the launch in mid-2025. The flagship of the Urban Jürgensen line-up and clearly its best creation to date is the UJ-1. A tourbillon with remontoir, the UJ-1 is modelled on the Oval pocket watch that was made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen. The movement instantly feels like it was descended from the Oval, which is a feat considering the disparity in scale. Mr Voutilainen managed to translate many of the key elements of the Oval into wristwatch format, including the “floating” barrel and...
Monochrome
With companies like Elon Musk’s SpaceX and Jeff Bezos’ Blue Origin, space tourism is no longer the stuff of sci-fi novels. While Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch has dominated the space story, others, like Fortis, have produced robust tool watches for astronauts, cosmonauts and “novonauts” alike. Boasting space-tested calibres, Fortis releases a fresh batch of four Stratoliner […]
SJX Watches
AP House Singapore is staging its first exhibition, making full use of the expansive space inside Singapore’s iconic colonial-era Raffles Hotel. 150 Years of Refined Elegance is a showcase of miniaturisation, covering Audemars Piguet’s smallest and thinnest movements, including an 18 mm-wide minute repeating calibre from the late 19th century. Taking place in the basement of the “house”, the exhibition starts with watches from the 1920s and ends in the current day that includes the Royal Oak Mini and the recently launched 38 mm perpetual calendar models. The Royal Oak Mini in “Frosted” gold Although not described as such, the exhibition naturally focuses a great deal on ladies’ watches, one of the recent themes of AP’s marketing. Unsurprisingly, one of the prominent figures in the exhibition is Jacqueline Dimier, chief designer at AP from 1975 to 1999 who conceived of the 29 mm Royal Oak for ladies shortly after the launch of the original “Jumbo” ref. 5402ST in 1972. Exhibition details The exhibition is open daily from 11 am to 8 pm and takes place at AP House Singapore located in the Raffles Hotel Singapore. Entry is free but registration is required; visits can be scheduled at Audemarspiguet.com.
Fratello
I don’t mind admitting that I can get a bit cynical and jaded when discussing watches. There’s just so much coming out and, frankly, not everything is equally inspired or well executed. So when I get the chance to go hands-on with something like this, it can feel like a breath of fresh air. This […] Visit Hands-On With The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
When you think of the Omega Speedmaster, the first thing that comes to mind is likely the brand’s golden child, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. It’s a modern grail with its NASA connection, and its intertwined history with the Moon landing and space exploration is its calling card. But today, we’re looking at a different Speedmaster that has been eschewed from Omega’s current lineup. One that’s a little more playful, a little more unconventional, than the brand’s well-established Moonwatch Professional formula: the Speedmaster Mk40. Down below, I’ll be breaking down the history, context, and all the aesthetic oddities of the watch, all of which work together to create one of the most compelling non-Moonwatch Speedmasters of all time, in my humble opinion. [toc-section heading="Some Speedmaster Context"] Image: S.Song From first glance, the Speedmaster Mk40 that made its debut in the ‘90s defies all the utilitarian, tool-watch-oriented austerity that is the key DNA of the Moonwatch Professional, from its functionality to its experimentation with color, shapes, and typography. But the Mk40 is part of a short-lived and often forgotten legacy of Omega’s experimentation with the Speedmaster formula, before things were so rigidly codified as they are today. It is also important to note that the moniker “Mk40” itself is a completely enthusiast-driven nickname, which Omega itself has never officially used (the brand denotes the different models wi...
SJX Watches
The Albishorn Type 10 Officer is the latest expression of the brand’s “imaginary vintage” philosophy, reworking the familiar codes of the mid-century military chronograph through the lens of a hypothetical Type 20 predecessor. Conceived by founder Dr Sébastien Chaulmontet, the cream-dialled Officer pairs its distinctive, parchment-like textured dial with a proprietary monopusher movement derived from a re-engineered Valjoux 7750 architecture, combining COSC-certified performance with thoughtful ergonomic and aesthetic refinements at a price that undercuts many conventional aviation-inspired chronographs. Initial thoughts Military aviation-inspired watches are a cornerstone of the luxury watch market, but most pay homage to specific historical references like the famed Type 20 of the 1950s. In contrast, the Albishorn Type 10 proposes to ‘recreate’ a hypothetical Type 20 predecessor. The cream-dialled Officer takes this idea further, suggesting a “missing link” is the aesthetic development of the military chronograph, with a lighter-coloured dial for open-air usage away from the front lines. When the Type 10 debuted with black and green dials, I was a bit skeptical of the texture, which reminded me of asphalt. The Officer’s dial features a similar texture, but the off-white colour transforms the look. To my eye, the new dial looks like vintage German etching paper, which is an appealing texture that suits the theme of the watch. Inside, the Officer is as com...
SJX Watches
Seiko pinks out its affordable bestseller with the Seiko 5 Sports SKX Series 38 mm Pink Panther, a tribute to the award-winning animated short staring the vexatious feline. In addition unique dial, bezel, case back, and crown, the 9,999-piece limited edition is delivered in themed packaging along with a pink nylon strap – complete with pink paw prints. Initial thoughts Since its launch in 2019, the Seiko 5 Sports has served as a platform for seemingly countless co-branded limited editions. These collaborations span streetwear labels, anime franchises, consumer brands, artists, and American cartoon characters, from Snoopy to the Pink Panther. The “5KX” base makes commercial sense for such projects, offering the mass appeal of an easy-wearing diver-style watch that remains affordable enough for an impulse buy. While Seiko’s entry-level mechanical watches are arguably not as cost-competitive as they once were given the rise of micro-brands (many of which rely on Seiko-sourced movements), they remain a better value than most mass market watches given the brand’s in-house know-how and storied history. Editions like this Pink Panther model add extra appeal, both in terms of the theme as well as the (relatively) limited run. The Pink Panther The Pink Panther debuted in the 1963 detective comedy film of the same name as an animated embodiment of the titular pink diamond. Created by American animators Hawley Pratt and Friz Freleng, the character soon eclipsed the film its...
If you’re tired of gifting the same old “this-made-me-think-of-you” mug with a quote, Hamilton is once again stepping in to save your season. Our annual Holiday Gift Guide with this classic brand is back and it’s giving a whole lot of enthusiast charm, character, and just the right amount of cinematic sparkle. This year’s lineup celebrates five standout timepieces, each matched to a distinct persona in your family or immediate circle of friends. Think of this as your shortcut to giving a gift that actually feels thoughtfully chosen vs. that last-minute pick up. The post The 2025 Hamilton Gift Guide: Four Iconic Watches, One Holiday Pop-Up appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Urwerk’s latest satellite-display creation, the UR-230 Black Star, builds on more than two decades of the brand redefining the wandering hours complication. A concept first teased in the Harry Winston Opus 5 and later perfected in the UR-210, the retrograde-satellite display has become synonymous with Urwerk’s identity, and the Black Star demonstrates how far the idea has come. With a lightweight fibreglass-reinforced ceramic case, the Black Star is a 35-piece limited edition that looks to be the final instalment of the UR-230 series. Initial thoughts Urwerk didn’t invent the wandering hours display, but the brand deserves credit for dragging the complication into modernity in the late 1990s. While the brand has dabbled in watches with conventional hands, it’s still the satellite time display that carries the essence of Urwerk’s DNA. The UR-230 traces its roots back to the 2012 launch of the UR-210, which introduced the retrograde frame that travels with the satellite cube for hours. The concept for a retrograde hand paired with wandering hours dates back even further, to the 2005 launch of the Harry Winston Opus 5, which was also designed by Urwerk. While the concept has subsequently been elaborated with the UR-150 Scorpion, the UR-230 still looks strikingly advanced even after all these years. The latest black-and-yellow livery seems to be the flavour of the day, closely matching the brand’s recent collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. The signature detail of the...
Fratello
Not too long ago, I wrote an article highlighting the Favre Leuba collection. The immediate standouts for me were the Deep Raider divers. The Deep Raider Renaissance is a great modern evolution of the classic Deep Blue from the 1960s. However, it was the Deep Raider Revival that stood out even more to me, as […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Collection to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The beginning of 2025 marked the 350th anniversary of the hairspring, the invention that made portable precision timekeeping possible. To commemorate the occasion, we published a series of deep dives covering the disputes around its invention, the evolution of spring materials over the years and the finer rules of forming Breguet overcoils. This final instalment examines isochronism. Some initial definitions and considerations A proper and universal definition of isochronism is: the property of an oscillatory system to maintain the same period of vibration despite variation in environmental factors. This implies that a vibrational system’s behaviour is inherent and external factors should not influence its frequency. A few basic terms help frame the discussion. The period, measured in seconds, is the time taken for the oscillator to travel from one extreme position, through equilibrium, and back again. Frequency, measured in Hertz, is the inverse of the period; a system with a constant period can serve as a stable timebase. The amplitude is the distance swept by the oscillator from the equilibrium point to its extreme position. In practical terms, when saying that a sprung balance has an amplitude of 330°, it means the balance wheel rotates a full 330° in one direction from its equilibrium point before swinging back. Figure I. Anatomy of a sinusoidal wave. In watchmaking parlance, isochronism means that an oscillator keeps the same period, regardless of its amplit...
The Bremont Supermarine 500m Polar feels tailor-made for a holiday escape to the woods, starring an icy dial that echoes fresh snow, paired with the sort of rugged dependability you want when you’ve traded city noise for crackling logs and cold morning air. Its crisp, high-contrast aesthetic is unfussy and calming, the visual equivalent of that first deep breath you take after settling into a quiet, wood-paneled retreat. Whether you’re strumming a guitar by the fire or stepping out for a morning hike through frost-covered pines, the Supermarine 500m Polar is exactly the kind of companion you want on your wrist. Its 43mm case crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel shrugs off bumps from thrown-together gear and cabin chores, while the robust 500 meters of water resistance gives you the confidence to take on whatever the terrain and weather decide to throw your way. This is a tool watch in its element… comfortable, capable, and never demanding attention. The post Holiday Lookbook: Cabin Couture Essentials with Bremont’s Supermarine 500m Polar appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Just in time to start celebrating the most wonderful time of the year, Nomos Glashütte drops its third run of limited-edition Club Sport Worldtimer models. Both the Roam and Reverie feature champagne-colored dials, but the color accents differ: the Roam showcases sky-blue and green accents, while the Reverie has touches of yellow and red. Each […] Visit Nomos Glashütte Surprises With More Limited-Edition Club Sport Worldtimer Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Regarded as one of the grails in watchmaking, and an extremely challenging one to master as well, the Perpetual Calendar is a complication that always grabs headlines, it seems. This year, we’ve seen an abundance of them, from seasoned Maisons to high-end indies, and everything in between. With so much to choose from, pinpointing the […]
Teddy Baldassarre
If you’ve somehow made it this far in life without hearing the name Rolex, congratulations. You may be the last living human to do so. Rolex sits at the very center of the horological universe. The brand is so vast and culturally omnipresent that calling it “successful” is a little like describing the Louvre as “a building with some pretty paintings in it” - technically correct but hopelessly inadequate. Here we will take a look at some of the most popular Rolex watch models, spanning the current production catalog as well as past models with staying power. Though we have seen the demand for luxury watches rise, dip, and plateau over the last few years, the desirability to own a Rolex watch remains exceptionally high. Factors such as scarcity, brand provenance, and consistent appreciation in the resale market drive this remarkable demand. All of these influences are compounded by waitlists, which have elevated desire into near-mythic obsession. However, if you’re entirely new to Rolex, consider this your gentle initiation. In fact, even if you own several Rolex watches and want to learn more about the brand and its most popular references, this deep dive is going to provide you with more information than many people will acquire in a lifetime. First, let’s kick things off with a historical overview of this timekeeping titan. [toc-section heading="Crown and Legacy: A Brief History of Rolex"] It might surprise you to learn that Rolex’s history didn’t j...
Fratello
It’s only been a couple of weeks since Thomas covered the AVI-8 CVRT 3775A Automatic. Now, the young brand specializing in military-themed aviation watches is releasing its next series of timepieces. With the new Flyboy Eagle Squadron Automatic Bronze 85th Limited Edition, AVI-8 pays tribute to the brave American pilots who volunteered to fly alongside […] Visit Hands-On With The AVI-8 Flyboy Eagle Squadron Automatic Bronze 85th Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
I have a deep-running fondness for Nivada Grenchen’s watches. Brought back to life in recent years, it was a brand that brought out a lot of interesting designs in the golden era of mechanical watchmaking last century. The wonderful thing about the modern brand is that it is one of the better ones out there […] Visit Food For Thought With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35mm - Should We Go Back To “Small” Tool Watches? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Our Tudor Library & Lounge is officially open - so you knew we had to pack it out with an event to launch it properly!The post Tudor brought the heat for the official launch of our Library & Lounge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
For those familiar with New York-by-way-of-Hong Kong menswear retailer The Armoury, Mark Cho’s move into watches won’t come as any major shock. His brand has long flirted with watchmakers and collaboration over the years, including with H. Moser & Cie., UNIMATIC, and Paulin. Now, Temporal Works, co-founded with The Armoury’s creative director, Elliot Hammer, is the natural progression for the brand. Their inaugural collection, Series A, reflects the same approach that has defined The Armoury since it opened in 2010 (and why the store has recently been named one of New York Times’ top 50 menswear stores in the country). Taking inspiration from a bygone era of tailoring, The Armoury is all wood-paneled, brick-walled masculinity that celebrates an inherent grace when dressing well. The Series A has this same throughline, using Cho’s singular vision of his retail store – masculine, elegant, and minimalist. In fact, the connection between Temporal Works and his existing brand is a throughline explicitly made by the founder, who noted, “Our goal was straightforward: create watches as thoughtfully designed and effortlessly wearable as a perfectly tailored navy blazer.” This jumping-off point seems to work in both Hammer and Cho’s favor, as the Series A clearly shows an unwavering vision of a brand identity that feels complementary without being derivative (something other lifestyle-to-watch brands like Louis Vuitton and Montblanc sometimes struggle with). This...
Monochrome
The replica of John Harrison’s H1 clock that the Stratford-upon-Avon-based Pragnell’s commissioned from Bob Bray of Sinclair Harding is a gloriously over-the-top tribute to an invention that was as significant an advance in the 18th century as the emergence of AI is today. Indeed, John Harrison’s H1 clock cracked the Longitude Problem, making navigation at […]
SJX Watches
Cavasino makes its debut with the Inaugural Tourbillon FT60, a compact flying-tourbillon wristwatch that reflects the industrial engineering background of its founder, Didier Cavasino. Before establishing his eponymous brand, Mr Cavasino spent more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects, followed by a leadership role at Bulgari focused on process optimisation. That experience informs both the FT60’s ensemble execution and supports the brand’s vision, which emphasises modern manufacturing methods and traditional haute horlogerie craftsmanship in equal measure. Initial thoughts Cavasino is a new brand making its debut with a deceptively intricate flying tourbillon. An engineer by training with dual degrees from École Nationale Supérieure d’Arts et Métiers (ENSAM) and Karlsruhe Institute of Technology (KIT), founder Didier Cavasino entered the watchmaking industry through industrial engineering roles, including more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects. From there, he moved on to Bulgari where he led a team of 20 people focused primarily on process optimisation and continuous improvement. This background contrasts with the bench training that is more typical among up-and-coming independent watchmakers, but it’s this industrial orientation that makes Mr Cavasino’s plan to produce and deliver 15-20 pieces per year seem quite feasible. While it’s unreasonable to expect to fully derive a new brand...
The holidays are here, and if you’ve got an adventurer on your list, you know… the kind of person who considers “inclement weather” an excuse to simply bring more gear, then you’ve come to the right place. We’ve teamed up with Bremont, the British watchmaker known for building mechanical timepieces as tough as the explorers who wear them, to curate a guide packed with rugged, road-tested gear. Whether your loved one is trekking ridgelines, chasing winter sun, or just trying to stay comfortable around camp, these picks will make their season brighter, bolder, and far more prepared. The post Holiday Gift Guide for the Modern Trailblazer in Your Life with Bremont appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
As if winning the top prize at the GPHG were not enough, Breguet has capped off their big 250th anniversary year with the launch of what is surely their most horologically interesting and cutting edge release in years. The Expérimentale 1 is an ambitious foray into contemporary haute horlogerie from a brand that more than most is associated with classicism. It incorporates and merges multiple technologies and advancements into a remarkably cohesive idea that might even have those of us who have always bristled at the controversial Marine collection rethinking its potential. The showstopping feature of the new Expérimentale 1 is the tourbillon, the first ever to beat at 10 Hz. Bregust is quick to remind us that most tourbillons run at a rate of 2.5 Hz, so this represents a dramatic increase and in theory should provide a variety of chronometric benefits, including rate stability over the duration of the power reserve and a better baseline level of accuracy. But it’s not just a high frequency tourbillon. Breguet has also developed and introduced a new magnetic escapement that is designed to provide constant force to the balance. The logic here is fairly straightforward even if the mechanics themselves are, frankly, somewhat difficult wrap your arms around without real watchmaking experience (this, by the way, is essentially my constant of being as I observe similar watchmaking advancements – wide eyed and impressed but quite frequently confused by all the math and ph...
Fratello
La Bazoche-Gouët is a small town in the French Loire Valley. Today, roughly 1,215 people live there. In 1815, the number of inhabitants could have been a bit higher or a bit lower, but it’s safe to say that La Bazoche-Gouët was never a bustling hub of activity. It is a beautiful spot, though. The […] Visit Who Was Jean-Adrien Philippe? The Story Of The Watchmaking Half Of Patek Philippe to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Breguet has enjoyed a great 250th anniversary year – one that promises to end with a big reveal in early December – with several commemorative editions launched for the occasion. The best of the lot, however, is undoubtedly the Classique 7225. Equipped with one of the most advanced time-only movements on the market, the Classique 7225 combines cutting edge modern watchmaking of the best industrial-haute horlogerie variety with an unexpectedly captivating aesthetic. Some of its details don’t quite make sense, yet the 7225 as a whole makes a lot of sense. Initial thoughts The Classique 7225 has a great deal of tactile appeal – it feels good on the wrist. In fact, the 7225 is probably the first Breguet in a long time that is sexy. If there’s one Breguet in today’s catalogue I really want, it’s this one. At 41 mm, the 7225 might measure large for such a watch, but the proportions are just right. The case is thin enough, while the wide dial maximises the impact of the guilloche on a gold base. If anything, the design might look odd with a smaller format, since the look comes from a pocket watch after all. Visually, the 7225 is striking and employs the classic Breguet style to great effect. Almost all the elements are familiar so the watch is recognisably “Breguet”, yet it different from the rest of the catalogue. The 7225 instantly looks like a Breguet, which shows its creators have an instinctive understanding of the brand. With its “floating” magnetic ba...
SJX Watches
Dubai has become one of the world’s most important meeting points for collectors. Its role as a crossroads is hardly new - the city sits at the intersection of historic trade routes, benefits from a strategic position between East and West, and is anchored by one of the world’s most connected airports. Within this landscape, Ahmed Seddiqi stands as a long-established pillar of the region’s horological landscape and remains a destination for collectors from around the world. Even after the conclusion of Dubai Watch Week (DWW), the city retains a sense of momentum. Within this landscape, one destination stands out for its significance and ambition: the Ahmed Seddiqi Rolex Certified Pre-Owned boutique. During DWW, we had the opportunity to visit the boutique and view some of the extraordinary pieces currently available. Understanding CPO Rolex launched its CPO programme in late 2022 and it remains one of the most strategically important evolutions in modern watch retail. The secondary market has been growing in importance for both collectors and industry leaders, but until recently it existed largely outside the brand’s official mandate. Since the launch of the programme nearly three years ago, there are now 148 participating retailers around the world, according to WatchCharts, a data provider that tracks Rolex CPO pricing and volume. As of late 2025, these retailers carry a total inventory of about 9,000 CPO Rolex watches. That’s either a lot of watches or not t...
Monochrome
In today’s indie watchmaking scene, you might think you’ve seen it all, but in reality, there is still a lot to be discovered, even for us. After scouring the globe, for the most part virtually, we’ve uncovered some of the most intriguing, beautifully constructed and finished watches. We see amazing work being done in South […]
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