Hodinkee
Introducing: The Remarkable Voutilainen 28 'Kohan' Unique Piece
The latest example of craftsmanship from Kari Voutilainen and his longtime collaborator Tatsuo Kitamura, the Kohan is vibrantly beautiful beyond my wildest dreams.
Results for Equation of Time
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Best Watches Under $10,000
Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph
I’ve reached the age where I regularly feel the temptation to say things along the lines of “back in the day…” This applies to various things, such as life without smartphones, dial-up modems, and Napster, among others, but occasionally, it also applies to watches. You see, it wasn’t that long ago that things were quite different. Dive watches were all north of 40mm, in-house movements were rare under $5k, microbrands were dismissed as a passing trend, and, most relevantly to this review, mechanical chronographs under a certain price were primarily powered by Valjoux 7750s or a close variant. With sub-dials at 12, 6, and 9, day-dates at three, two-pushers, cam-actuated, and always automatic, approachably priced mechanical chronographs were limited in their design options. Even 3, 6, 9 layouts were rare, powered by 7753s or ETA 2894s, and often limited to Swatch group brands. The point is that in 2025, it’s almost hard to imagine a world of such limited chronograph options. Today, thanks largely to Sellitta, 3, 9, and 3, 6, 9 layouts are typical (I actually miss 12, 6, 9 now), monopushers are no big deal, manual winding is an option, flybacks, GMTs, and even column-wheels are on the table. Simply put, it’s a good time to be a chronograph fan. Yet, even in this golden-age of chronographs (ok, that might be a stretch), there is room to stand out. Enter Albishorn, which launched in 2024 with a series of chronographs powered by a bespoke movement, based on a fun r...
SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Pale Blue Ceramic with the “Top Gun” Miramar
IWC continues to grow its line of ceramic-cased pilot’s watches with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar (ref. IW389409). A limited edition of 1,000 pieces unlike most other ceramic models that are regular production, the Miramar joins the pilot’s watches with ceramic cases in white, dark green, dark blue, beige, and of course classic black. For someone who wants the same colour, but for half the price, IWC has also launched the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 with a “Miramar blue” dial and stainless steel case (ref. IW388117) that’s regular production. Initial thoughts The IWC aviator’s watches with ceramic cases are generally appealing, the ceramic cases add a cool factor to an otherwise standard and functional design. But there are now a lot of them in multiple colours. The range of colours feels a little much, especially for a watch that meant to be rooted in aviation instruments. Because of the historical basis of IWC’s pilot’s watch line, the collection has always seemed a bit more serious minded, but the many colours run counter to that. That is, the Miramar itself is a likeable watch. The colour is unusual and fun while also being different. It brings to mind the fashionable shade of baby blue associated with Tiffany & Co., but is clearly different in being darker. And IWC’s build quality is always reliable; the cal. 69380 inside is an industrial workhorse found across the brand’s catalogue. The Miramar is also priced correctly, th...
Monochrome
Introducing – New Gradient Dials for the Rado Captain Cook 39mm
It’s fair to say that genuine horological novelties, in the form of complications and new collections, have given way to a more trend-oriented approach in the watch industry. Riding the wave, many brands revisit popular collections in more compact case dimensions and different materials, treating the dials to seasonal colours. Rado’s Captain Cook, the brand’s […]
Fratello
From The Archives: How The Omega Speedmaster Became The Moonwatch
On July 21st, 1969, the Apollo 11 crew turned the Omega Speedmaster Professional chronograph into the Moonwatch. It may have actually been one of the first nicknames that a wristwatch ever received. As a watch enthusiast, you’ve probably heard the story of the Moonwatch a thousand times already. However, in case you’re new to watches (or […] Visit From The Archives: How The Omega Speedmaster Became The Moonwatch to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: Two New 39mm Rado Captain Cook Models With A Holiday Vibe
Captain James Cook (1728–1779) was a British Royal Navy officer, explorer, and cartographer who made a name for himself with his three voyages of exploration to the Pacific and Southern Oceans between 1768 and 1779 - arduous and hazardous work. The watch named after him was launched in 1962. Since then, numerous models, ranging from […] Visit Introducing: Two New 39mm Rado Captain Cook Models With A Holiday Vibe to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Miramar In Ceramic & Steel (Incl. Video)
For quite some years now, IWC Schaffhausen has been playing around with colours and ceramics under the name of Colours of TOP GUN. Inspired by various elements of the famous US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program, better known as TOP GUN, the sub-collection exclusively uses ceramic for its cases. Until now, that is, as […]
Time+Tide
Seagazing with the new summer-ready ceramic IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Miramar
IWC introduces TOP GUN Miramar, a summery new Pantone colour making its debut with two Pilot's Chronograph models in ceramic and steel.The post Seagazing with the new summer-ready ceramic IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Miramar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Mike’s Favorites From G-Shock, Norqain, And Ming
Even though it’s only July, it feels like it’s been summer for months here in the UK. It’s been hot and dry, two descriptors rarely used here in Blighty. So, I’ve had ample time to practice my summer watch game. So far, I’ve been away from the pool, so the choices may seem strange. I’ll […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Mike’s Favorites From G-Shock, Norqain, And Ming to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G
The polarising Cubitus collection is not yet a year old, but Patek Philippe’s newest line of elegant sports watches has expanded in a big way with the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G-001 in a new ‘medium’ 40 mm size that transforms the wearing experience for the better. With summer now in full swing, it’s worth looking at this new Cubitus and considering what it means for the future of the collection. Featuring a silky 18k white gold case and bracelet, the smaller Cubitus practically drapes itself on the wrist, and is probably the most compelling launch yet from the new collection. Also available in rose gold (ref. 7128/1R-001), the new “medium” Cubitus is a luxury sports watch in the true sense of the term, combining everyday comfort and wearability with premium materials and high-quality finishing inside and out. For better or worse, the Cubitus retains several signature elements of the Nautilus such as the embossed sunburst blue dial and lozenge-shaped hands. Initial thoughts When the Cubitus launched last year, it was decried by many spectators as an unworthy successor to the sought-after Nautilus. I freely admit I never had a strong affinity for the Nautilus, which might explain my open mind toward the Cubitus, but I really like the faceted eight-sided crystal and find the overall design about as compelling as that of its esteemed predecessor. That said, I do wish the Cubitus had more of a distinct identity of its own. In the case of the current ref. 7128/1G-001 in 1...
Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists For Its 2025-2026 Watch Prize for Independent Creatives
The group of 20 semi-finalists spans the globe, with some familiar young faces and some new names you probably haven't heard before.
Deployant
Citizen Super Titanium: why its great and all you need to know
We collaborated with Citizen to bring a private event to selected media and collectors to showcase Citizen's leadership in the use of titanium in watches.
Fratello
A Quick Hands-On With The Andersen Genève Communication 45
Last month, I had the pleasure of attending various events during London Watch Week. Most of the sessions took place in Mayfair, including a day at a historic house that featured new watches. Andersen Genève, along with the brand’s CEO, Pierre-Alexandre Aeschlimann, occupied a small booth. It was here that we noticed the standout from […] Visit A Quick Hands-On With The Andersen Genève Communication 45 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Catching Up on New Releases from Ming, Wren, Squale, and Doxa
Happy Saturday! Dive watch summer continues – we’ve noticed some fun new divers, all limited editions, come across the transom lately. New water ready releases from Doxa, Wren, and Doxa are profiled below. We’re also spotlight the latest from Ming – while not a diver, it has a stealthiness to it that feels appropriate for the season. Let us know in the comments what you think of these new releases, and what we might have missed. Wren Diver 38 Wren is back with their second watch, the all new Diver 38. The brand, founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, launched last year with the Diver One, and the new piece is a scaled down, and perhaps more refined take on the original concept. The new version of the watch is smaller, coming in at, you guessed it, 38mm, and is just 10.7mm tall (the original was 41mm in diameter and over 13mm thick). The dial has a sandwich style design, in either a gradient seafoam green or aqua colorway. According to Karger, the goal here was to move Wren into a new category that “balances practicality, comfort, and refined execution.” The Wren Diver 38 is available in date and no-date versions for $1,595. It runs on a ETA 2892 automatic caliber, and has 200 meters of water resistance. It’s mounted to a flat-link, stainless steel bracelet, and the ceramic bezel insert is fully lumed. Another nice touch: the rotor is skeletonized in the shape of a wren. More information on the Wren Diver 38 can be found on the Wren website here. Mi...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, and Gear: Earth’s Shortest Day, TAG Heuer’s New Sponsorship, and More!
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Leatherman’s New Product Family When it comes to pocketable multi-tools, two brands pop into my head: Victorinox and Leatherman. Due to their distinct style, tool sets, and overall quality, many people have been loyal friends and supporters of each brand for years but Leatherman is looking to change it up. On almost every tool Leatherman produces, you’ll find some kind of knife, albeit Leatherman has rarely produced a dedicated, stand alone knife until now. Their newest collection, a family of knives, Leatherman has announced a total of five knives: two folders and 3 fixed blades. While each model is produced with Magnacut steel, and manufactured right here in the USA, the two folders are available with Steel handles whereas the fixed models incorporate g10 handles. While we’re still waiting to see these in person and to see the EDC community get these in their hands, the initial response has been interesting to say the least; many people have voiced complaints about the MSRP of the knives, all around $300 USD, whereas others have praised Leatherman for opening a new factory dedicated to knife production. At the end of the day, we’re hopeful that this new ...
Deployant
New: DOXA x Clive Cussler
Twenty years after the release of Sahara, the film adapted from Clive Cussler’s novel,DOXA pays a fresh tribute to the man who helped forge its legacy.This marks the third chapter in DOXA’s homage to legendary American novelist and explorer Clive Cussler - who would have turned 94 today, and whose adventure novels helped bring global recognition to SUB dive watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort
Open-worked high-end watches aren’t uncommon. In fact, at a certain level of exclusivity, they’re rather typical. Yet, when I opened my messages the other day, a head-turning piece was staring back at me. The new Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort is a unique-looking object because of its simplicity and finishing. Yes, I shot a […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Skeletonized Chopard, An Honest Wittnauer Chronograph, And A Dishonest Heuer Carrera
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SRPL53 PADI Special Edition: a in-house dive watch for under $1,000
At US$620/A$975, the Seiko Prospex SRPL53K PADI Special Edition is a great, more affordable dive watch to take a closer look at.The post Seiko Prospex SRPL53 PADI Special Edition: a in-house dive watch for under $1,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Three Great Vintage Seikos, a Few Cool LED Watches, and a Classic Omega Seamaster
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko 7T27-7A20 Chronograph Starting off this week with a beautiful vintage Seiko 7T27-7A20 military style quartz chronograph. This is the same model that was issued to the RAF, but without the military markings. You’ve got to love the clean looks of the black dial with black subdials and broad outer minute ring. The 38mm steel case looks clean and unpolished. The dial and hands are perfect. Seller states the watch runs and works as it should. This is a very popular model, and rightfully so. Great civilian version of a classic modern military watch. View auction here Vintage Omega Seamaster This may not be your classic ‘fat lug’ 1950s Omega Seamaster, but it is still a fantastic watch. This late 1960s Seamaster has a larger, more modern case at about 40mm. The case is unpolished with nice sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The silver/champagne dial is original and looks perfect, with large applied steel baton markers and large steel hands that have both black and lume inlays. This model has a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The watch comes on what looks like the original Omega steel bracelet and it matches the style perfectly. No movement picture but the seller state...
Fratello
IFL Watches Introduces The Doxa Aquamarine Reef Turtle
IFL Watches has transformed numerous timepieces with hand-painted dials. Now, the brand has worked its magic on the Doxa Sub 200 to create the Aquamarine Reef Turtle. And while it’s not an official collaboration, Doxa has approved of IFLW’s work. Spoiler alert: this might be my favorite artsy edition yet! One look at the IFL […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Doxa Aquamarine Reef Turtle to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Everything that happened at our Zenith White Surfer launch events in London and Melbourne
To launch our third and final collaboration with Zenith, we threw some parties to remember in both London and Melbourne.The post Everything that happened at our Zenith White Surfer launch events in London and Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 in Gold
For many fans of IWC, the first collections that spring to mind are the brand’s emblematic Pilot watches, the iconic Portugieser and the Ingenieur. However, there is another collection at IWC with a more classical, understated and timeless character named after the Italian seaside village of Portofino. Appealing to men and women alike, the latest […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009
Grand Seiko returns to its Sport Collection with an even bolder and edgier take on its flagship chronograph with the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Combining an oversized case Brilliant Hard Titanium and a high-spec, high-beat chronograph movement, the striking new is Tentagraph is surprisingly not an all-new design but an iterative evolution that builds on the existing Sport Collection case. Initial Thoughts While a strength of Seiko itself, chronometry-focused Grand Seiko has historically struggled with sports watches, though not for lack of trying. In 2019 Grand Seiko launched the angular and aggressive Sport case featuring a facetted, polygonal form with a sapphire-covered bezel to celebrate 20 years of Spring Drive. Grand Seiko intended the design to evoke the mane of the brand’s lion mascot. In 2023 came the regular production Tokyo Lion series, and the brand also extended the design language into its jewelled Masterpiece watches. The “lion’s mane” case design reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept, and with the addition of an octagonal bezel the resemblance has only grown, though I wouldn’t say it is derivative – if anything the Grand Seiko case is a more boisterous take on the 45GS design from the late 1960s. The earlier Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC275 with a less stylised case design I quite liked the Sport case when it was launched in 2019, especially the rose gold SBGC230, but it felt unfinished with a round bezel and buttons. With...
Revolution
Sotheby’s Once Auctioned Johnny Cash’s Rolex Watch For Just $7,200
One of the most influential American musicians of the 20th century, Johnny Cash used his fame to speak out against inequality, racism and prejudice. A life-long Rolex man, and the embodiment of cool, Cash sold more that 90 million albums in a career spanning five decades.
SJX Watches
Insight: Breguet’s New Sympathique Clock and Natural Escapement
Breguet will very likely close its 250th anniversary this year with a bang: launching a 21st century Sympathique as a tribute to perhaps Abraham-Louis Breguet’s greatest invention, a clock that could autonomously wind, correct, and regulate a removable watch. While the brand has released no details, and there haven’t been any leaks, a series of patents gives us a peek at the new Sympathique. Notably, the patent drawings illustrate two possible companion watches: a 60 m water resistant Marine tourbillon and a Tradition. The latter is more interesting as it uses a novel form of Breguet’s échappement naturel, or natural escapement. We explain both the new Sympathique 2025 and the natural escapement using information gleaned from Breguet’s patents. Breguet Sympathique No. 1 by Francois-Paul Journe Initial Thoughts Three of the most historied names in the watch industry are celebrating anniversaries this year. Vacheron Constantin marked the occasion with Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch to date, while Audemars Piguet introduced an all-new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (and promises more to come in the fall). In comparison, Breguet has debuted the Classique Souscription and Tourbillon Sidéral so far, both of which are objectively good watches but feel underwhelming in technical terms. A new Sympathique, on the other hand, would be the ideal centrepiece for the brand’s anniversary collection, being visually impressive, an icon of the brand, and entirely unique ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 Review
Some watches become icons unexpectedly, and we would argue that no model better represents that idea than the Grand Seiko SBGA413 Shunbun – a watch that, on paper, should not even be an icon to begin with. So much of this watch’s ascension into the broader horological pantheon has to do with everything that GS does right in its process to create a watch from start to finish. We know the brand for its vertical integration, its attention to detail, its mastery of the craft when it comes to dial design, case construction, and finishing. Not to mention how the brand has made it mark as the the name in movement accuracy. All of these aspects and more are on full display within and without the SBGA413. It is a masterclass in subtlety and craft, and one that is truly more than the sum of its parts. To understand the SBGA413, we must first understand the origin story. Grand Seiko Shunbun Background In 2019, Grand Seiko unveiled four watches as U.S.-only exclusives in what it called its “Seasons” collection. Each watch employed the brand’s 62GS case concept (the brand’s first automatic watch), and two were mechanical while the other two utilized Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology. The Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 represented the Spring season and did so visually via a unique dial with a hint of pink emblematic of the cherry blossoms in bloom at the start of the spring season. This subtle dial which only appears in certain lighting conditions was paired with an u...
Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier launches new Sandstone configuration for its Tonda PF Chronograph Sport (live pics)
Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a Mediterranean-inspired rose gold Tonda PF Sport Chronograph with a new "Sandstone" colour scheme.The post Parmigiani Fleurier launches new Sandstone configuration for its Tonda PF Chronograph Sport (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Rose Gold Sandstone
Parmigiani Fleurier‘s CEO, Guido Terreni, is the figure behind the release of the Tonda PF in 2021, a refined interpretation of the luxury sports watch characterised by understatement, elegance and fine craftsmanship. Since day one, Terreni has brought his Italian flair to the table, emphasising the collection’s “sartorial attention to detail” manifested in subtle textures, […]