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Monochrome
The year 1969 is etched in Zenith’s history as the birth of El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre. It was also the debut year of the Defy, a rugged sports watch nicknamed the “vault” for its robust construction and avant-garde angular design. Over the past few years, Zenith has revisited these late-1960s […]
Time+Tide
Dennison drops a two-for-one, dropping two movements into a single ALD case to create a very retro travel watch.The post Dennison doubles down with the ALD Dual Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) was a prominent American banker and art collector, most famous for his passion for collecting timepieces. He is best known for commissioning some of the most complex and innovative watches ever made, including the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication, considered one of the most significant and expensive timepieces in horological history. Graves was born on the 11th of March 1868 in Orange, New Jersey, in the United States of America. The Graves family was a prominent and wealthy banking family. His father, Henry Graves Sr. (1838–1906), was a co-founder and partner in the Maxwell & Graves banking firm. They engaged in the railroad and financial services industries and Henry Graves, Jr. continued the family legacy of financial services expertise as an investment banker. The company operates today under the name M&G; Solutions which was founded by the great-great-grandson of Henry Graves Jr. They use an image of the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication in their logo signifying the ‘&’ symbol paying tribute to his relative’s interest in watches (below). Graves was known primarily for his legendary watch collection which stemmed from his status as a wealthy financier who appreciated fine craftsmanship and luxury items. He was also an avid collector of art, reflecting his refined taste, acquiring items of significant cultural and historical value. Henry Graves Jr.’s interest in watches stemmed from his status as a weal...
Monochrome
Possibly the most practical complication for travellers, a GMT watch allows you to consult the time in two distinct time zones at a glance. Interpreted by countless brands, Armin Strom’s take on the GMT goes one step further by incorporating the phenomenon of resonance onboard its Dual Time GMT Resonance editions. Offering two independent time […]
SJX Watches
Best known for its Agenhor-powered chronographs, Singer Reimagined has just released its first time-only watch, the Caballero. Inside is the Calibre-4 Solotempo representing another first, being the brand’s first proprietary movement. With four barrels powering the Caballero for six days, the Calibre-4’s distinctive architecture can be discerned from the front thanks to jewel portholes in the dial. Spanish for “gentleman”, the Caballero is available in three colourways; the piano black and empire green colours are familiar from the Heritage Collection chronographs, but the petrol blue colour is new for the brand. Though not strictly a limited edition, the watches will be rare enough, assembled in small quantities at the brand’s atelier in central Geneva. Initial thoughts There tends to be a lot of crossover between the worlds of horology and high-end cars. Fans of the latter are no-doubt familiar with Singer Vehicle Design, which has made a name for itself restoring and modifying vintage Porsche 911s – specifically the 964 of the early 1990s – elevating the model to a standard that would have been impractical in its own time. The watchmaking arm, which operates as an independent sister company, has been quietly making interesting watches since 2017, largely focused on vintage motorsport themes. For the Caballero, this inspiration is conveyed most prominently by the golden needle hub that covers up the base of the hand stack, similar to those used by vintage a...
SJX Watches
One of the headline releases from Geneva Watch Days is, without question, the Berneron Quantième Annuel, a symmetrical annual calendar that brings the brand’s vision into sharper focus. Expensively made and cleverly designed inside and out, the Quantième Annuel is a showcase for founder Sylvain Berneron’s attention to detail. A limited run of 480 pieces in platinum, with production spaced evenly over the next decade, the Quantième Annuel is available in two dial configurations; whether the buyer opts for lacquered silver or piano black, the dial itself, along with much of the movement, is crafted from 18k gold. Initial thoughts I’ve written effusively about user-friendly complications in the past so it should come as no surprise that I like the Quantième Annuel’s legible display and intuitive interface. Visually, it’s a world apart from the oozy Mirage, but it exhibits a similar degree of intellectual sophistication and attention to detail. A jumping hour watch with an instantaneous annual calendar, the Quantième Annuel is distinguished by its oversized windows for the hour, day, and month, with a sector-style dial for the minutes and a concentric retrograde date display. The running seconds dial at six o’clock contains the fourth jumping window for the day/night indicator; a useful addition for any calendar watch. The watch is designed for easy legibility, with the time read top-to-bottom and the date read left-to-right. The sector dial for the minute han...
Hodinkee
New Hong Kong-based brand serves up design-forward, hearty, ceramic-cased watches for Alpine outings.
Fratello
Sapphire-cased watches have crept up on me lately. I used to think of them as fragile showpieces, destined for safes rather than wrists, but something has shifted. It probably started with the ArtyA Luminity Wavy collection, which made me stop and think about how sapphire can do more than just look flashy. Now, with Bianchet’s […] Visit Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire - A Transparent Take On The Ultra-Thin Tourbillon to read the full article.
Fratello
These days, 3D printing is a well-established technique in manufacturing for R&D; divisions. I’ll never forget visiting the Triumph factory in Hinckley and seeing how future designs are rendered digitally, then printed into 3D forms. These objects provide a hasty method of producing new bike parts and testing structures instead of forging components in more […] Visit Introducing: The Apiar Gen1.0 With A Case 3D Printed From Metal Powder to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Breitling Chronomat traces its most emblematic design elements back to the relatively recent year of 1984, but the model’s roots reach much further back, to the dawn of Breitling’s role as a leading innovator of watches for pilots. On the way to becoming one of the watch world’s iconic chronograph wristwatches, the Chronomat has also been the host model for some of the most significant innovations in movement technology. Today, it remains one of Breitling’s flagship models, with an array of sizes, materials, colorways, and complications for men and ladies alike. Here is the story of the Breitling Chronomat, from its groundbreaking origins to its 21st Century revival. The Original Chronomat (1941) Breitling’s long and storied history in the arena of aviation begins in 1938, shortly before the start of World War II, with the founding of the Huit Aviation Department by third-generation company chairman Willy Breitling. Taking its numerical name “huit” from the eight-day power reserve offered by Breitling’s watches and clocks - an innovation pioneered by Willy’s grandfather Léon Breitling - the Huit Aviation Department was devoted to making the most precise and robust onboard timekeepers for the cockpits of military planes. Two years later, Breitling unveiled a world’s-first invention destined to make a historical impact on both watchmaking and piloting: the first timepiece equipped with a logarithmic scale on its rotating bezel that could be u...
Worn & Wound
Ansel Iisaka is an industrial designer, watch lover, and European car enthusiast. Laid back with a thick beard, and often dressed in 1970s-esque attire, Iisaka doesn’t seem like your average mechanic, nor does he reveal much about his deep knowledge of watches. When asked about his propensity for both, he admits that growing up among the enthusiast cars that his father collected, drove hard, and cycled through may have caused him to feel “desensitized to rare or exotic cars.” Instead, he focused on what he calls, “really well-made, practical cars that I could use every day.” The first of these workhorse vehicles? A Volvo 240, one of the most iconic and reliable European cars ever built. Despite earning ASE certification in automotive service while still in high school, Iisaka chose to pursue the pen-and-paper side of his passion for mechanical artistry, and after completing a degree in industrial design, he found himself drafting concepts for several microbrand watch companies-an area he’d never considered before. While Iisaka states that he can’t reveal those projects due to contractual obligations, he has had a hand in designing field watches and vintage skin divers for a well-known microbrand. “I love all well-built mechanical things, especially those that were designed for longevity and repairability,” he explains. That appreciation for watches wasn’t immediate, though. It took a very special timepiece, handed down to him from his grandfather ...
Time+Tide
Jamie joined Mido in Thailand's bustling capital this week for the launch of the new Multifort TV Chronograph.The post Breaking a sweat in Bangkok with Mido appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko and Citizen are the two undisputed titans among Japanese watch brands, known and admired worldwide for their technical excellence, design acumen, and legendary price-to-value ratio, not to mention the role that both brands have played in the technological and cultural evolution of watchmaking in general. And while these world-renowned companies have been fierce competitors from the beginning, they have a lot in common as well. Here we present a side-by-side comparison of Seiko vs. Citizen, starting with their earliest days and concluding with an overview of what each brand is doing today. Seiko vs. Citizen: Origins of Two Japanese Watch Pioneers With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene, but one would be mistaken. The company today known as Citizen was founded in 1918 by Kamakechi Yamazaki as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan. Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodolphe Schmid, in 1930 to become Citizen. Joining the expertise of Shokosha’s Japanese watchm...
Worn & Wound
I think we can all agree that watch enthusiasm is often intertwined with a bit of cosplaying. James Bond-esque fantasies of tackling adventures in go-anywhere-do-anything watches have a powerful way of convincing office-dwelling collectors such as myself that over-engineered specs are a necessity. While actual practical need for secret agent-level robustness may be minimal for most collectors (I haven’t engaged in hand to hand combat or an aquatic chase all week), the pervasiveness of often repetitive feeling GADA designs can make avoiding rugged tool watches feel like a chore. This is especially true in the microbrand arena where many brands have made the dive watch their bread and butter and seemingly the format for all other complications, including GMTs. While I’m not here to throw shade (OK, maybe just a little) at the ubiquitous and often unimaginative tool watches that clearly reign supreme for many brands and collectors alike, I would be lying if I said the recent prevalence of dress watches in my Instagram feed hasn’t provided some much welcome variety. But even in this evolving landscape as dressier designs are having a moment, as I scroll through my curated collection of microbrand inspired hashtags, most #dresswatches from small independent brands are notably void of complications beyond a date window. Canadian microbrand Héron (known for their modern approach to neo-vintage inspired tool watches since 2021) seems to have recognized this gap between for...
Fratello
If last year’s 32-strong collection of Chronomat B01 42s in NFL team colors was the rookie season, this year is the sophomore breakout for Breitling. The Swiss watchmaker has announced that it is becoming the popular sport league’s inaugural timepiece partner, along with the release of new watches to the NFL collection. What can we […] Visit Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Top U.K. watch brand shifts distribution to existing U.S. entity to cut prices for U.S. customers.
Worn & Wound
Albishorn has accomplished quite a bit in its first year. It was around this time in 2024 that we were introduced to the brand through a collaboration with Wiiliam Massena. The Maxigraph introduced the tantalizing concept of the brand in an easily digestible way: these would be “imaginary vintage” watches inspired by alternate versions of watch history. It’s a clever spin on the well understood and perhaps overused idea of the “vintage inspired” watch that allows for a great deal more creativity and whimsy. Zach Weiss recently reviewed the Albishorn Type 10 and was impressed with both the execution and concept behind the piece. The new Marinagraph, available in two versions, is the next iteration of the Albishorn project. On its surface, this is a chronograph inspired by the classic regatta timer. And, in some ways, it’s exactly that. But of course Albishorn has crafted a much more interesting story behind the Marinagraph, which is based on telling the “untold chapter in the evolution of the skin diver chronograph.” Albishorn says that the Marinagraph story starts with the 1958 running of the America’s Cup, the sailing competition that was first contested in 1851. The 1958 race was the first one after a period of dormancy, and introduced 12-Meter class yachts to the competition, which represented a significant advancement in technology to the sport, carrying sailing into a new, modern era. The Marinagraph is a watch that might have accompanied the cre...
Fratello
Block September 2nd if you want to have a chance to wear a relatively affordable MB&F; collaboration watch on your wrist. On that day, at 2:00 PM CEST, the raffle for the M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” in three colorways will start. These M.A.D.Editions are the result of a collaboration with British-Nigerian artist and designer Yinka […] Visit Introducing: The M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” Water, Nature, And Sun - A Collaboration With Artist Yinka Ilori to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex revives its quirky 1970s mystery dial with a new gold-tone Q Enigma. Same retro specs, fresh vintage vibes-all for $239.
Fratello
Over the past few years, we have seen Massena Lab team up with several interesting brands. For this new creation, William Massena’s collaboration laboratory joined forces with Vianney Halter to produce the Old Soul. This timepiece blends the science fiction of steampunk with watchmaking references from the early 1900s. Additionally, it houses a vintage Minerva […] Visit Introducing: The Old Soul By Vianney Halter And Massena Lab to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The fan-favorite M.A.D.1S returns in a collaboration with a London-based, British-Nigerian multi-disciplinary artist and designer for a colorful new take on last year's slim release.
Monochrome
As one of the main competitors in the battle for the thinnest watches, Piaget has had quite a few records on its hands, using the emblematic Altiplano watch collection as the vessel to deliver record-thin models. The Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) made some noise by becoming the thinnest mechanical watch ever in 2016, and the […]
Time+Tide
With a colour-shifting dial and monopusher chrono movement designed specifically for this watch, there is a lot to get into here.The post The MING 57.04 Iris brings technicolour to the wrist in a tasteful way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Toys for Hospitalized Children is holding its 2025 charity luxury watch raffle, with a Patek and Cartier up for grabs.The post Win a Patek Philippe Aquanaut (or Cartier Baignoire) while supporting hospitalized kids! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
A rattrapante, split-second, or double chronograph is not something you see every day. Such a chronograph, capable of measuring intermediate times without interrupting the ongoing measurement of a longer elapsed time, is a seriously complicated watch. For many, including me, the double chronograph is one of the most fascinating complications the world of Haute Horlogerie […] Visit Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition In Burgundy to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I have a confession to make: I (politely) turn down 90% of press junkets offered to me. So, when Casio reached out to me earlier this year with the opportunity to visit their Yamagata factory and the Tokyo headquarters, I was not too sure. I thought about it for three days on how this would be different from any other watch factory visit, and how I would narrate my visit without the usual “Maison’s” PR team influencing my writing. There were two reasons I accepted Casio’s invitation. First, Casio is unlike any other watch company, so it will make for an interesting visit and observations. And second, Casio culture is different from other watch companies, including their PR and marketing folks. They are transparent about everything; they allowed me to ask the tough questions and did not influence my story. I will touch on both points further in this article. The original G-SHOCK There were three journalists on this trip including me, so it was a small group for this visit. We visited Casio’s Yamagata factory the first day, their museum in Tokyo the following day, and on the final day we visited the headquarters to meet and interview executives overseeing the watch division. All three visits were so different from each other – the first was so technical, the second was all about design and history, and the final visit was about strategy. For our visit to the Yamagata factory, we woke up early to take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Higashine city, in Yamagata ...
Monochrome
Born in 1889, Doxa is a storied and highly respected brand, mostly in the diving community. As of 1967, and the launch of the SUB 300 (the first dive watch to feature a unidirectional rotating bezel to calculate and monitor no-stop dive times), Doxa gained incredible popularity in the field and continues to do so. […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot is one of the world's largest Swiss watchmakers and can look back on a rich history upon which it is still building today. In the modern era, Tissot is widely known for its large and diverse portfolio of watches, which ranges from dressy to sporty to high-tech, for its high-profile sports timing presence, and for its incredible value for the money. But there is a lot more that you may not know about Tissot and its many contributions to watchmaking history. Here, we delve into the highlights and tackle the easily answerable question of "are Tissot watches good?". (And if you're interested in learning more about particular Tissot Watches that are available now, check out our companion article on the Best Tissot Watches for Men.) Tissot’s Watchmaking Milestones Began in 1853 Tissot is one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world, tracing its history back to 1853. Its founders were the father-son watchmaking team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot, who turned their home in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, where the company remains headquartered today, into a small factory. By 1858, the family firm had gained a major foothold in Tsarist Russia, which became the largest market for the savonette pocket watches that were its specialty at the time. (At one point, Charles-Émile’s son, Charles Tissot, the third generation of the Tissot family to join the business, moved to Moscow to open an office there.) Tissot is recognized as the producer of the first...
SJX Watches
Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...
Fratello
In a fast-paced world, slow and steady progress is not often the chosen growth path for small watch brands. However, Traska has chosen this path and, as a result, has cultivated a passionate and dedicated following that loves the brand and its strategy. I have been keeping an eye on Traska over the past couple […] Visit Hands-On: The Traska Commuter 38 - A Daily Driver That Leaves A Lasting Impression to read the full article.
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