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A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes Fratello
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT Jul 17, 2024

A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes

By now, you are probably aware that Christopher Ward is hard to beat in terms of affordable luxury watches. One of the brand’s most popular series is the C63 Sealander, and within it, the GMT models are particularly in demand. We never reviewed the watch, so it was about time that we did. But not […] Visit A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes to read the full article.

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A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” Fratello
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” Jul 8, 2024

A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak”

Grand Seiko’s first all-mechanical complicated watch debuted in 2022. It was a timepiece with a movement featuring a tourbillon with an inner carriage rotating at eight beats per second and a constant-force mechanism rotating at one beat per second. Not only was the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 a complicated and ingenious watch, but […] Visit A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” to read the full article.

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First Look – The Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Jul 3, 2024

First Look – The Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton

Released in 2022, the Defy Skyline collection was Zenith‘s answer to the large demand for sports watches with integrated design and bracelet. Since its initial introduction, we have seen multiple new editions of this watch, including compact versions, ceramic models, a chronograph and even a high-frequency tourbillon. But one of the most impactful models was […]

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Is the Seiko Presage SPB445 the best Arita Porcelain dial watch yet? Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SPB445 Jun 25, 2024

Is the Seiko Presage SPB445 the best Arita Porcelain dial watch yet?

One of the things that makes Seiko such an interesting brand is that it’s not afraid to celebrate its Japanese-ness. This is most commonly expressed through the brand’s dials, which frequently pay homage to different elements of Japanese nature or culture. Some of the best of these are their Presage Arita Porcelain pieces, which feature … ContinuedThe post Is the Seiko Presage SPB445 the best Arita Porcelain dial watch yet? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On: Patek Philippe World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe World Time Apr 29, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe introduced the World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001, the brand’s first regular-production world time with a date. Although the model officially debuted last June with a 300-piece, purple-dial limited edition for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Japan, the ref. 5330G-001 brings this complication into the mainstream with global distribution and a more versatile colour palette. Initial thoughts The ref. 5330G is quintessential Patek Philippe is several ways. It embodies a complication synonymous with the brand that is presented in a slim case. The overall aesthetic is modern but clearly vintage inspired. And the movement incorporates a complication that is cleverly executed and necessarily thin to fit the case. So conceptually, it is appealing. The ref. 5330G is also appealing in terms of its tangible qualities. It has good proportions and a refined, polished appearance that is typical of modern Patek Philippe watches. What do I not like? The carbon pattern dial is intrinsically attractive – it is done well and modern in feel – but feels a bit overused. Earlier world time models, on the other hand, had dial patterns that were unique to the reference. And the other is the Patek Philippe pricing. At over US$76,000, the ref. 5330G is steeply priced for a relatively straightforward pair of complications, even considering the ingenious construction of the date. But it is a Patek Philippe, and the unrivalled brand name alone accounts ...

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The 10 Best Hamilton Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Apr 23, 2024

The 10 Best Hamilton Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast

While it’s been making its timepieces in Switzerland since the 1970s, Hamilton Watch Company, founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, has few peers when it comes to being a vital thread in the historical tapestry of American watchmaking. The heritage brand, today a part of the Swiss Swatch Group conglomerate of companies, continues to lean heavily into its New World roots for its diverse collection of product families, which ranges from military tool watches to sporty divers, from elegantly appointed dress pieces to retro-futuristic curiosities - while also maintaining a price-to-value ratio for which the brand has long been renowned. It can fairly be said that there is a Hamilton watch for just about everyone, no matter what style they’re seeking. Here, in the tradition of our previous guide to the best Longines watches, we run down 10 of our favorite Hamilton watches that run the stylistic gamut from sporty to dressy, from high-tech to classically mechanical. For the Military Buff: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Price: $595, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 9.5mm, Lug width: 20mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Mechanical Hamilton Caliber H-50 Field watches are an enduringly popular category of timepiece, and without Hamilton, the style as we know it might not even exist. Hamilton basically invented the genre with the “trench watches” that it supplied to American troops during World War I, kicking off a long tradit...

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Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 12, 2024

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001

Amongst Patek Philippe’s best known complications is the travel watch, most notably the traditional world time with its mechanism inspired by the Louis Cottier system. Continuing with that tradition, the Patek Philippe World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001 features a thoughtful date complication that has been smartly implemented to allow it to go backwards and forwards in sync with the world time display. This is the regular production version of a model first introduced last year at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo as a limited edition. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe World Time watches have mostly abided by the same 24 city indication style since the 2000’s. The Cottier system is a very convenient way of showing the time simultaneously across 24 timezones by using a 24 hour disk in conjunction with a cities’ disk. The new World Time adds a novel date indication linked to the local time. Though simple on its face, the date display is a sophisticated, two-finger mechanism that allows the date to automatically go backwards or forwards as the time display changes. Travelling from Tokyo to Hawaii, for instance, sends the date backwards. The timepiece gains in utility, as it shows more information to the prospective globetrotter, all while keeping the additional indication discreet.  A practical addition The dial may seem cluttered at first, but when taken separately the indications are reasonably legible. The innermost dial with traditional dauphine-shaped hands show...

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The Parmigiani Tonda PF Does Away with the Date SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Apr 9, 2024

The Parmigiani Tonda PF Does Away with the Date

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Parmigiani Fleurier is launching the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, a concise sports watch clearly catered to those who want just two hands. Featuring a “Golden Siena” (or “salmon”) dial in its inaugural guise, the new Tonda PF barely deviates from the design of the original released in 2021, retaining the same case, proportions, and movement, but eliminates the date. Initial thoughts Among the sports watches launched during the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch fad, the Tonda PF stood out for its unique aesthetics that are neither boring nor flashy. While many of its competitors were often obvious derivatives of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Tonda PF was more original and managed to retain some of the traditional design codes of Parmigiani’s more formal watches. From a distance, it is challenging to tell the difference between the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date and the original. In fact, the only real difference lies in the dial design and colour. Although the differences are minimal, the salmon dial with a no-date layout offers a more refined aesthetic that will appeal to purists. At CHF23,500, the watch is priced the same as the date version and like it, is a decent-enough value proposition. Though it seems expensive when compared to more affordable alternatives like the Louis Vuitton Tambour or Moser Streamliner, the Tonda PF is more affordable than the Royal Oak or a Nautilus (which are mostly unobtaina...

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First Look – The New Speake-Marin Ripples Infinity Date Monochrome
Speake-Marin Mar 25, 2024

First Look – The New Speake-Marin Ripples Infinity Date

Speake-Marin‘s response to the ongoing craze for luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets came from the Ripples collection, unveiled in 2022. Its debut garnered a mixed reception, as is customary in today’s critical landscape. However, the watch emerged as refreshingly original, staying true to the brand’s roots while incorporating signature Speake-Marin twists that captivate attention. […]

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Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Pointer Date SJX Watches
Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Jan 17, 2024

Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Pointer Date

Oris gives its signature model a subtle makeover with the Big Crown Father Time Limited Edition, a collaboration with Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC). This release commemorates the pair’s three-year collaboration that began in 2022 and combines a 40 mm bronze case with a creamy white dial. Initial thoughts The Big Crown Father Time is best described as a cricket-themed variation of the bronze Big Crown Pointer Date. The cricket element, however, is subtle and practically absent from the dial, which is not a bad thing since it gives the watch the widest possible appeal. Setting aside the cricket theme, the contrast between the dial elements and the dial itself is appealing. The watch stands out in terms of legibility due to this contrast. The cathedral hands and extra-large crown add a nice touch that evoke vintage Oris models. And though I’m typically a fan of fluted bezels, this one works well. This is equipped with a Sellita SW 200-1 instead of an in-house movement. However, with a retail price of US$3,100, it is still acceptable value. “Father Time” Sitting on top of the clock tower, Father Time is the weathervane at Lord’s Cricket Ground and was gifted to MCC in 1926 by architect Sir Herbert Baker. Because Lord’s is the “Home of Cricket”, and the MCC once the sport’s governing body, Father Time is one of the globally recognised symbols of the sport. The Big Crown Pointer Date, on the other hand, is synonymous with Oris. Introduced in 1938 as a pilot’...

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: A 13 Year Old Beats Tetris, “Succession” Props Head to Auction, and a Watch Saves a Life in New Zealand Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer would become Jan 6, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A 13 Year Old Beats Tetris, “Succession” Props Head to Auction, and a Watch Saves a Life in New Zealand

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The LVMH Shakeup Yesterday saw one of the most significant executive level shakeups in the watch industry in several years, with the announcement that Frédéric Arnault, previously the CEO of TAG Heuer, would become the new CEO of LVMH Watches. Arnault, part of the family that has controlled LVMH for years, will oversee operations at TAG, Hublot, and Zenith, and report to Stephane Bianchi, CEO of LVMH Watches & Jewelry Division. As part of the change in leadership in the watch division, Julien Tornare, the CEO at Zenith since 2017, will move into Arnault’s old spot at TAG Heuer. The new Zenith CEO is Benoit de Clerck, formerly the Chief Commercial Officer at Panerai, and a Richemont veteran.  Anytime there’s a shift like this in leadership across big Swiss brands, there’s a certain amount of tea leaf reading, prognosticating, and wish-casting that is bound to happen. Arnault heading the watch division at LVMH seems like a logical move given his quick rise in the company his family owns. The more interesting question, perhaps, is what Tornare’s leadership at TAG will look like....

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Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time Dec 28, 2023

Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments

Perhaps the most surprising aspect of the year was how predictable much of it was. We saw more sports watches with integrated bracelets and more time-only watches with ostensibly artisanal decoration. Paradoxically, most of the notable surprises came from establishment marques that would ordinarily be predictable. Amongst them are the Rolex Perpetual 1908 and Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time ref. 5224R, both thoughtful creations that are typical for their respective brands. Here are our picks for the year’s best surprises in watchmaking. Brandon Moore Technical Contributor An unexpected, but user-friendly complicated watch that debuted this year is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R, a simple dual time watch with a twist: both time zones are indicated on a 24-hour dial, eliminating the need for an auxiliary day-night indicator. Not only is the functionality appealing, but the aesthetic and ergonomic execution is done well. While 42 mm may seem large for a Calatrava, the watch is visually smaller thanks to its abundant use of applied markers on the dial and stepped case and lugs. Moreover, and importantly, it is different for Patek Philippe, which is notable since the brand usually errs on the side of the tried and tested. Who would have thought Patek Philippe would remake the Chronometro Gondolo into a wristwatch? Richard Lee Technical Editor I was surprised when I first saw the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref....

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Best of 2023: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Dec 27, 2023

Best of 2023: Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking got hot in 2021, a phenomenon that accelerated into 2022 and continued in 2023. Perhaps because of that, the number of notable, impressive, or truly interesting debuts from independent watchmakers were few. Still, some of the 2023 debuts stood out for us. We rounded up our team’s favourites of the year, which range from Louis Vuitton and Rexhepi Rexhepi to Marco Lang’s open-source construction to an accessibly-priced Habring². Richard Lee Technical Editor The Marco Lang Zweigeischt-1 is an impressively executed three-hand watch with the option of a novel shock-recording complication. However, it was released in 2020. Its inclusion in the 2023 list is because of the open-source technical plans for the entire watch, all of which were made public this year on Mr Lang’s website. Mr Lang’s generosity in sharing his know-how is uncommon and to be applauded. The importance of this initiative can’t be understated. For one, it ensures the longevity of the Zweigeischt-1, since any competent watchmaker will have access to the design and construction, making servicing and repairs easier. Additionally, the accessibility of this information serves as a guidance and inspiration for new watchmakers who are attempting to create their own timepieces. Garnering much attention this year, the Petermann Bedat Reference 2941 was lauded for being an original split-seconds chronograph design with an excellent level of movement finishing. The visible components ar...

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Review: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde ... Dec 18, 2023

Review: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

Unveiled earlier this year as part of its retrograde-theme collection, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is self explanatory: it combines a tourbillon, retrograde date, along with a self-winding movement. And in contrast to many date indications that are almost an afterthought, this presents the date in an elaborate, thoughtful manner. A clear sapphire dial shows off the retrograde mechanism, along with the base plate of the movement that’s been decorated with linear guilloche. And at six o’clock sits the tourbillon, with the cage in the Maltese cross emblem of Vacheron Constantin (VC), secured by a traditional bridge of polished steel. Initial thoughts Classically-styled watches sometimes suffer from the addition of a date display; dates often get in the way of the design or just don’t fit in. The Tourbillon Retrograde Date, in contrast, benefits from it. While the tourbillon might be the headline feature of the watch, and the peripheral winding the most novel, the retrograde date is  the most appealing mechanical detail. Retrograde displays are amongst the most striking dial-side complications because they are composed of parts in varying shapes, which allows them to be both beautiful and intricate when executed correctly, and here the date certainly is. Despite being a simple function in itself, the date is executed well – it is finely constructed and finished. The components of the retrograde display are clearly designe...

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The 48 Best Automatic Watches Under $500 Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 11, 2023

The 48 Best Automatic Watches Under $500

Let’s be honest: not everyone can spend thousands of dollars on every new watch purchase, especially someone who might just be getting into the watch collecting hobby or perhaps looking to spend $1,000 or so to assemble his or her first three-watch collection. Fortunately, there are a plethora of options out there in the sub-$500 watch category, with choices from the usual suspects like Seiko, Citizen, Swatch, Timex, and Orient, as well as from several microbrands that offer worthwhile options in that narrow price range as well. Here we have compiled a selection of the best automatic watches under $500 that deserve to be on your radar - and perhaps even in your collection. Before we begin, some important ground rules: Our curated list will feature watches costing under $500, and equipped with an automatic movement inside. The very few exceptions to the under-$500 rule will be called out in the descriptions below. As always, we can’t include every potential watch that meets the criteria in this range, but you can find some others in several other guides on our site, such as our lists of The 60 Best Seiko Watches and The 51 Best Microbrands. Finally, in order for this list to flow properly, the watches will be grouped together according to the following style categories: 1) Dive, 2) Dress, 3) Everyday Finally, at the end of the list, we will shout out a handful of watches that are worthy of notice but just missed the cut on price. Dive Watches: S...

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21 Best Tissot Watches for Men, from Under $600 to $2,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Aug 20, 2023

21 Best Tissot Watches for Men, from Under $600 to $2,000

Founded in 1853 by the father-son team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, Tissot is today one of the largest Swiss watchmakers in the world, with a versatile and varied collection of timepieces for men and women, from dressy to sporty to high-tech, all offering one of the industry’s best value propositions across the board (every watch we showcase here comes in under $2,000). With such a breadth of options, it's difficult to compile a list of the standouts, but for this (admittedly very subjective) compilation of the 21 best Tissot watches we strove to include just about all of Tissot's major collections, with an emphasis on men's watches with mechanical movements, particularly spotlighting the variations on the proprietary Powermatic Caliber 80. (For those who find themselves enthralled by one or more particular models on this list, most are available right here at TeddyBaldassarre.com; just follow the shopping links.) TISSOT SEASTAR Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 Price: $1,075, Case size: 46mm, Thickness: 16.3mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 600 meters, Movement: Automatic Powermatic 80.111 Tissot's ruggedly attractive Seastar family of dive watches, which debuted in the 1960s, welcomed its most robustly engineered member in 2021. The ISO-certified Seastar 2000 entices deep-sea enthusiasts with its integrated helium release valve at 9 o’clock, unidirectional dive-scale bezel with en...

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Vero Introduces a Pair of Watches Inspired by the Long History of Smokey Bear, the Iconic National Symbol of Forest Conservation Worn & Wound
Aug 9, 2023

Vero Introduces a Pair of Watches Inspired by the Long History of Smokey Bear, the Iconic National Symbol of Forest Conservation

Here’s a character watch we never saw coming. To celebrate the 79th birthday of Smokey Bear (famous for his “Only you can prevent wildfires” tagline), Vero is releasing a pair of officially licensed Smokey Bear watches. It’s actually a natural partnership for Vero. As a fire prevention mascot, Smokey is well known in the Pacific Northwest, where Vero is based. And Vero’s brand identity very much leans into the culture of love for the outdoors – it’s a huge part of every watch they make, both in terms of the aesthetics (with designs and colors inspired by Vero’s Oregon home) and their robust nature (the Workhorse comes immediately to mind). These new watches have a charm factor that’s just about off the charts if you grew up seeing Smokey on TV warning you about the dangers of forest fires, but they’re also Vero through and through.  First up is the Smokey ‘44 watch, which takes its inspiration from the types of early field style watches that would have been in use the year Smokey made his debut. The dominant feature here is the large cathedral hour hand, paired with Arabic numerals in a distinctive gothic typeface. Vero says this typeface was chosen to match iconic mid century signage found in the US National Parks System. The Smokey ‘44 watch includes the familiar illustration of Smokey (wearing his hat, of course) at the 12:00 position, with “Only You” text right underneath, a reference to his iconic catchphrase.  The Smokey ‘64 is perhaps...

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In-Depth: Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat Jul 20, 2023

In-Depth: Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Having made its debut in 2020 with the 1967 deadbeat seconds, Petermann Bédat recently unveiled its second watch, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The 2941 lives up to the benchmark established by its predecessor with a traditionally-styled movement that is decorated to an impressive degree, albeit one that reflects constraints in its development. The brand’s founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, are both watchmakers in their early 30s who studied watchmaking in Geneva before a stint at A. Lange & Söhne. The pair also spent time carrying out restorations of vintage watches. Their shared experience is illustrated in the 2941, most notably in the traditional decoration and styling of the movement. Initial thoughts When Petermann Bédat made its debut in 2020 with the 1967, a time-only with deadbeat seconds, independent watchmaking was a much less crowded space. As a result, the 1967 stood out for both its intrinsic qualities, namely excellent finishing and traditional mechanics, but also the fact that it was fairly novel. Now time-only watches with seemingly good finishing seem to be everywhere, most of which are even similar to the Petermann Bédat profile in having founders in the their 30s and 40s. So Petermann Bédat did well in introducing a following up with something more complicated for its second model. The 2941 continues with the aesthetics of the 1967, essentially a modernised “sector” dial, and also the movement finishing. The quality...

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Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch Time+Tide
Baltic Brew or Boldr there Jul 8, 2023

Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch

Some microbrands just get it. Their designs are elegant, their execution flawless, their carefully chosen components top-notch, and their customer experience first-rate. But for every Baltic, Brew, or Boldr, there are scads of ill-conceived releases that, for one reason or another, can cause my eye to twitch uncontrollably. A handset that’s all wrong. An off-putting … ContinuedThe post Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Sound The Alarm: Vulcain Links Up with Revolution & The Rake on Limited Edition ‘Style Moderne’ Cricket Worn & Wound
Vulcain Links Up May 25, 2023

Sound The Alarm: Vulcain Links Up with Revolution & The Rake on Limited Edition ‘Style Moderne’ Cricket

The latest iteration of Vulcain’s beloved alarm watch, aptly named the Cricket, is a collaborative limited edition piece with Revolution & The Rake. Tapping into Revolution’s enthusiasm for finely crafted timepieces and The Rake’s sartorial know-how, the Cricket gets a handsome new sector dial that harkens back to the design made popular in the 1930’s. Still keeping the foundational elements of the Cricket, the limited edition ‘Style Moderne’ is a representation of an era where design evolved from Art Deco’s flash and flare, to practical and functional, without sacrificing its appealing facade. To dive a little deeper into architectural history and terminology, Style Moderne or also known as Art Moderne emphasized movement and sleekness. It was a departure from the embellished zig zags and chevrons found in the previous decade, and a transition to more streamlined designs while maintaining some of its geometric and bold color elements. The Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ embodies that evolution with its sectioned two-tone Bellini and anthracite dial. Each layer of the dial has its own geometrical feature; the inner dial is split into four quadrants, the following Bellini layer is split into eight separate sections by several anthracite channels that flow into the outer portion of the dial. We’ve seen multiple hour marker displays within the Cricket collection, ranging from Arabic numerals, pointed markers, and a combination of both. This particular edition come...

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