2,352 articles · 17 videos found · page 78 of 79
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Glycine has been manufacturing watches since its founding in Bienne, Switzerland, in 1914. They’re probably best known for their Airman line of pilot and GMT watches, which were used extensively by the US military and even taken into space. The Combat line, including the Sub dive watch, has been in production since 1967.
Deployant
A legendary pilot's watch comes back as a re-issue. Here, we bring you the details and our thoughts on the Blancpain Air Command Chronograph.
SJX Watches
A year ago, H. Moser & Cie. debuted the Heritage Pilot’s Watch, a retro, aviation-inspired watch with grey fumé dial for Swiss retailer Bucherer that was then a one-off unlike anything else in the brand’s line-up. Now the watch has officially joined the collection as the Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue, positioned as an entry-level model priced under US$14,000. The watch has a familiar design, for good reason: it’s modelled on early pilot’s watches from the 1920s that were produced by a host of brands including Longines and Zenith, and also Heinrich Moser, the predecessor of H. Moser & Cie. At the same time, according to Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, the Heritage watch takes some inspiration from early 20th century wristwatches that were converted pocket watches with wire lugs soldered on for wear on the wrist. While the Heritage measures 42mm in diameter like a majority of Moser’s watches, it is just 11.1mm high, making it one of the brand’s slimmest models. Its stainless-steel case features an onion-shaped crown and thin lugs to mimic wire lugs. The case is largely polished, punctuated with fine, vertical fluting on its flanks, a detail taken from another watch in the Moser line-up, the Pioneer. The dial is a dark, metallic blue finished with sunburst brushing and the brand’s signature fumé treatment that gradually darkens towards the edges. But the most distinctive feature are the large Arabic numerals – modelled on the painted radium ...
SJX Watches
Following the launch of the Sinn 356 Pilot Chronograph limited edition to mark the 40th anniversary of The Hour Glass, the retailer has just announced yet another pilot’s chronograph, but this time, one that is more unusual and striking, the Longines Avigation Type A-7 1935 in bronze. Characterised by an askew dial and movement, the Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” is based on the second-generation, 2016 reissue of the chronograph Longines supplied to the US Army Air Corps in the 1930s that was known as the “Type A-7”. Striking colourways Though the distinctive case style is retained, the commemorative edition is made even more unusual by an attractive material and colour combination. The case is bronze and paired with either a blue or champagne dial finished with a metallic, sun ray-brushed finish. While bronze might seem a bit too fashionable, especially in this price segment, it’s surprisingly uncommon for Longines. In fact, the new Type A-7 is only the second Longines watch to have a bronze case; the first was the Heritage Military Kuwait limited edition. The case is made of phosphor bronze (CuSn8), an alloy that is 92% copper and 8% tin. In contrast to the aluminium-bronze alloys, used in watches like the Tudor Black Bay Bronze or Montblanc 1858 chronograph, which develops a brownish patina, phosphor bronze has a more reddish tone and develops a blue-green, sunken-treasure oxidisation over time. While the vintage Type A-7 was a 51mm diameter cockpit instrumen...
SJX Watches
Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont has just added Buccellati to its stable of luxury brands, which include watchmakers like A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Panerai. Richemont is buying the 100-year old Milanese jeweller from Gangtai Group Corporation Limited, a Chinese conglomerate that bought a majority stake in 2017 that reputedly valued the jeweller at €230m, or about US$271m at the time, according to Forbes. Gangtai had owned 85% of Buccellati, with the remainder held by the founding family, but like many of its peers the Chinese group has been forced to sell assets as the Chinese government put a stop to the debt-fuelled overseas expansion that was earlier fashionable. The terms of Richemont’s acquisition were not disclosed, although Chinese news website Jing Daily reports Buccellati was valued at US$313m, including debt, equivalent to about 15% of Richemont’s net cash position in the last fiscal year. According to Richemont, Buccellati family scion Andrea Buccellati as well as several other family members will remain with the jeweller after the takeover. Buccellati gives Richemont a more diverse presence in high-end jewellery, where its business is concentrated the Parisian jewellers Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, which together account for the bulk of group sales. In contrast to the French style of both Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati’s Italian sensibility gives Richemont a stylistic counter to Bulgari, the Roman jeweller owned by French luxury ...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Being a pilot who’s into watches is already cool enough, but when you add in some seriously serious photography skills, that’s the whole ballgame. If you need some watch photography inspiration, this is it. Here’s a story from a while back when Andy caught up with Dale Mracek of @MracekProductions … Hi Dale, … ContinuedThe post Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In the early years of the 21st century, Zenith was a brand that looked to the past - honouring their iconic El Primero in its original guise, and taking flights of nostalgic fancy with its Pilot’s collection. All fine watches, but comfortable takes on familiar forms. In 2017, the brand abruptly changed direction, with a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The defiant one – Zenith’s El Primero Defy 21 Carbon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Despite being one of many recent startups specialising in stylish, affordable watches, Gorilla has managed to set itself apart from a crowded field by creating watches that are well designed and smartly detailed. That’s because the Gorilla was founded in 2016 by two veterans watch design: Lukas Gopp, an alumni of IWC and Audemars Piguet, and the better known of the pair, Octavio Garcia. Mr Garcia spent almost 15 years at Audemars Piguet, five of them as chief designer; one of his most famous and successful creations was the Royal Oak Offshore “Alinghi” in forged carbon, one of the hottest watches of the mid-2000s. Gorilla now only offers essentially a single model – the Fastback – in several variations, with the design and colours inspired by 1950s American muscle cars. And it is obvious that several of its watches are reminiscent of certain Audemars Piguet timepieces. But with the Gorilla watch case having a distinctive profile of its own, coupled with the fact that most of its watches cost less than US$800, Gorilla watches have an easy appeal. A gilded 15 This particular Gorilla is a limited edition made for the 15th anniversary of Red Army Watches, a Singapore-based retailer that specialises in affordable watches; amongst the other brands it carries are SevenFriday and Grand Seiko. Formally known as the RAW x Gorilla Fastback Celebratory Edition, the watch is not drastically different from the standard model that serves as the base, the Fastback Gal...
SJX Watches
Swiss watchmaking groups Richemont and Swatch Group just announced their first quarter and six-month results for 2019 respectively, with each going in opposite directions. Owner of brands like Cartier, IWC and Panerai, Richemont saw growth across most segments and regions. Overall sales were up 12% at constant exchange rates, with every region growing in the low teens save for the Middle East and Africa. Sales in Asia grew 10%, led by China, where demand is up due to lower taxes locally on luxury goods and more stringent checks on travellers importing items bought overseas. Most notable was the performance of its online channels, namely luxury fashion mall Yoox Net-a-Porter (YNAP), pre-owned watch merchant Watchfinder, and to a lesser extent. That growth is from a low base of comparison: last year’s first quarter for each platform was only two and one month respectively. That being said, online sales are still substantial, rising to 50% to €648m, almost equal to the €698m of sales in the Americas as a whole. The group’s watchmaking brands, which include A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, saw overall sales dip 2%. This was attributed to a reduction in the number of sales channels as well as reduced orders of new product by retailers. Up in Biel, where the Swatch Group has its headquarters, half-year sales were down 3.7% at constant exchange rates, to 4.07 billion Swiss francs. Net profit followed suit, shrinking 11.3% to 415m francs. For the full year, howe...
SJX Watches
Among vintage military watches, some are more interesting and significant than others. They include the IWC Mark 11 and Rolex “Milsub”, and also the early Type 20 chronographs made by Breguet for the French air force and navy in the 1950s. Breguet has revived the first-generation, military-issue Type 20 for Only Watch 2019. The one of a kind remake is faithful not just in terms of dimensions and aesthetics, but also the movement. Instead of a modern calibre, it is powered by a refurbished, vintage Valjoux 235 movement, just like the original. Breguet Type 20 “Only Watch” And a bit of nomenclature explanation before proceeding: “Type 20” refers to a French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, which refers to the original, military-issue watches. Watches produced for the civilian market, including the modern day models, are identified by the model name in Roman numerals – Type XX. The origins After WWII, Breguet was one of several watchmakers, including Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Vixa, Auricoste, and Dodane, that supplied Type 20 chronographs to the French Air Force and Naval Air Force. While the actual Type 20 specification has been lost, the general consensus is that it called for a watch a prominent seconds track, a 38mm-ish case with a screw-in back and thickness of not more than 14mm, accuracy of within eight seconds a day, and most crucially, a flyback chronograph with a start-stop function that would work reliably at least 300 ti...
Deployant
The Citizen Promaster Skyhawk A-T Blue Angel is a pilot’s radio controlled watch in collaboration with the US Navy's Blue Angels. Precision meets precision.
WatchAdvice
“An all-time favourite among pilots and aeronautical enthusiasts since 1952” – Breitling If you have ever been on the look out for a pilot’s watch, whether being a pilot yourself or just having pure admiration for the workings of pilot watch then the Breitling Navitimer has to be up there at the top of the list. Breitling has a variation of models in the Navitimer range, with sizes ranging from 38mm all the way to 48mm. The model we have in our hands today is the Navitimer 01 version in 43mm diameter. This Navitimer is the previous edition to the current Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph in 43mm diameter. The two models are relatively unchanged with the new model getting a facelift logo on the dial and the addition of a sapphire crystal case back for the first time on a 43mm to showcase the B01 movement. At first glance the dial does look super busy. But there’s a reason why everything is the way it is. When the Navitimer was launched in the 1950’s it was considered one of the most practical tool watches made available for Pilots. It’s no wonder then that the Navitimer was endorsed as the official timekeeping instrument of the “Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA)”. With only a few minor updates the navitimer has remained unchanged, with Breitling even going on to claim that this is the only wristwatch that has a chronograph function that is in continuous production for more than 50 years. So what exactly is the features present in the Navitimer d...
Time+Tide
One of the surprise highlights from the recent Swatch-stravaganza that was Time to Move was Blancpain’s Air Command – a really neat reissue of an historic pilot’s chronograph. It’s fair to say that prior to this release, knowledge of the Air Command was limited to hardcore Blancpain fans and seasoned professionals. Well, the timing couldn’t … ContinuedThe post This old Blancpain Air Command commands an impressive price at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
At Time to Move, Blancpain presented vintage military-themed diver’s and pilot’s chronograph steeped in lore and mystique.
Time+Tide
When we were shown the new Blancpain products at Time to Move, we expected to see Fifty Fathoms and Villeret. We did not expect a pilot’s chronograph. But, oh boy, was the Blancpain Air Command a pleasant surprise. On its face, this 500-piece limited edition is a very handsome heritage-styled number, with a 42.5mm steel … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
An ultra-rare vintage pilot's chronograph comes back, with up-to-the-minute tech inside.
Time+Tide
The Defy is playing an increasingly important role in Zenith’s lineup - offering a modern alternative to the Pilot’s line that has dominated the discussion for so long. And there’s a lot to like about it - modern style with a hint of retro flavour. And while the Defy spans the spectrum from accessible to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 – not your average chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Breitling has just announced three retro takes on their iconic pilot’s watch - the mighty Navitimer - that evoke the golden age of jet travel. The Airline Editions capsule collection consists of tributes to three of the great airlines, Pan Am, Swissair and TWA. Each airline is the subject of nostalgic homage, in the form … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Breitling Navitimer 1 Airline Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Zenith hold a certain affinity for mechanical machines – and not just of the time-telling variety. From pilot watches that celebrate all things planes and motorbikes, to El Primero-powered chronographs that take their open road inspiration from the world of classic cars. For the past three years the Swiss manufacturer has also enjoyed a partnership … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Evoque’d – the Zenith Defy Classic Range Rover Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
October was a fun month for watch-spotting, with no discernible theme, other than perhaps gold? Even then, we kept things real - here’s a look at some of the more random pieces that crossed my camera throughout the month … Kicking off October, I caught up with local pilot Dale (who goes by @MrAceKProductions on Instagram), … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED! By AG: Dispatch 15, October 2018 – a heavy metal month appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
One of the most iconic watches by Cartier, the Santos needs no introduction. The origins of the Santos dates back to 1904 when Cartier first designed the watch to accompany aviator Santos Dumont on his intrepid flights. Funny as it seems, the Santos then bears the pedigree of a Pilot’s watch and is one of the earliest tool purpose wristwatches in history.
Deployant
Bell & Ross watches is known for its military associations, in particular from the instrument panel of the pilot’s cockpit. The BR03 line is especially iconic to the brand, as the foundational design icon for its square shaped case, and legible dial display.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We look at 8 new Glycine Airman No. 1 pilot watch models that were just released at a very accessible price.
Revolution
As the Crown and Shield each release their own version of the legendary “Pepsi”, revolution takes a guided tour through the first three decades of Rolex’s celebrated pilot’s watch, the GMT-Master.
Time+Tide
In recent times, Zenith have made a marked change of tack - away from the oversized heritage pieces that have been their main focus. The Pilot watches are still there, of course, but now the Defy shares top billing as a contemporary alternative. And while the Defy is dominated by the aggressively skeletonised look that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Solid sports style from Zenith – the Defy Classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
While its heritage and DNA are deeply rooted in aviation, Bremont’s other timepiece collections are just as competent as their pilot’s watches. For 2018, Bremont releases four new pieces which encompasses its Sea, Land and Air collection.
Time+Tide
It was clear from Zenith’s 2018 collection that the Defy line was a major priority. Because while there were Pilot, Chronomaster and Elite models on offer, the Defy was the star of the show, with everything from the awesomely complex El Primero Zero G through to the comparatively simple, but still quality, Defy Classics. It’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 6 of the best new Zenith releases of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
For this Spot the Watch, we went about town to see what watches we can find in the streets of Singapore. In a short while, we found many watches, but photographing them without drawing attention was not easy. Here are our first 4: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 and Aquanaut, Rolex Daytona and IWC Portugese.
Time+Tide
The pointer date is one of Oris’ most recognisable complications. Making its debut in 1938, it wasn’t until it was reintroduced in 1984 that it became a regular part of the catalogue. Paired with another of Oris’ signature designs, the heritage-inspired Big Crown pilot’s watch, Baselworld 2018 sees a couple of fresh-faced dials, as well as a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date in blue and the brand new 36mm version available in both steel and bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you know a little bit about how the world of watches works, you’ll likely know that it’s a space dominated by a few big groups (namely Richemont, Swatch and LVMH), each with their own stable of brands. SIHH is a show dominated by Richemont brands - big names like Cartier, IWC and Montblanc. But … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 of the best independent watches from SIHH 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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