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Monochrome
A watch like this is not one for doing things halfway. The Jacob & Co. Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut is exactly what the name suggests. It is a large watch fully set with diamonds and is hard to ignore once it is on the wrist. Since its debut in 2015, the Billionaire line has […]
SJX Watches
The Ardra Labs Delta Type addresses the sizeable minority that grapples with unusual time-zone offsets ignored by traditional GMT watches, doing so in a clever, practical, and visually distinct manner, in a well-rounded package. Initial thoughts Most of our lives follow standard time zones defined as full-hour offsets from Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) - the same as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), practically speaking. However, well over a billion people, from Newfoundland, Canada, to New Zealand’s Chatham Islands, march to a different beat. The Ardra Labs Delta Type, created by Indian-American Nava Krishnan - a cybersecurity professional living in Washington, DC, with family back in South India - aims to provide a solution for those ignored by conventional GMT watches. Louis Vuitton made an attempt towards the same end, though by very different means, with the recent Twin Zone. Timezones of the world. Image – CIA World Factbook India, the world’s most populous country since 2023, spans two of the 24 geographic time zones - GMT+5:00 and GMT+6:00 - however, rather than splitting into two, the country splits the difference, with the entire nation observing a single GMT+5:30 time zone. This is not entirely unique: China nominally operates on a single time zone rather than the five geographic ones it covers, though that is a full-hour offset. While Venezuela and North Korea have abandoned their partial-hour time-zone offsets in the last decade, the Indian governm...
Worn & Wound
Unimatic has introduced the Modello Cinque UT5-TANC, a new collaboration developed with British designer Nigel Cabourn and menswear retailer The Armoury. The watch continues Unimatic’s previous work with Cabourn, which began in 2019, while also marking the brand’s latest project with Hong Kong-based menswear store The Armoury. Anyone familiar with Cabourn’s work will already know his passion for vintage army style, so the UT5-TANC should feel right at home within the British designer’s aesthetics. The UT5-TANC takes the form of a compact expedition-style tool watch built around Unimatic’s 36mm Modello Cinque case. Made from 316L stainless steel and finished with a stonewashed Cerakote coating, the watch comes in two versions: UT5-TANC-A with a green case and UT5-TANC-B in navy blue, with both references sharing the same navy dial. As mentioned, the case follows the familiar Modello Cinque layout, with a fixed monoblock bezel and an 8mm screw-down crown bearing Unimatic’s Alchemical Sun emblem. Flipping the watch around reveals a caseback that’s engraved with a dazzle camouflage pattern. To keep the overall restraint of the expedition watch – or, as the brand has put it “exploration over ornament” – the dial is minimally designed and more about function than form. For example, the numerals are filled with Super-LumiNova GL old radium, along with luminous dial markings and an open seconds track to aid visibility in low light. The Nigel Cabourn logo appe...
Worn & Wound
If you had told me a few years ago that much of what I’d be doing at Worn & Wound in terms of new release coverage would be writing about mother of pearl and stone dial executions like a beat reporter at small town paper assigned to the high school basketball team, I probably would not have believed it. But here we are, multiple years into a trend that does not really seem to be letting up. It started with a resurfacing of high end vintage watches with exotic stone dials, moved to bigger brands capitalizing on the hype, shifted to smaller makers and microbrands offering impossibly affordable options, and now we’re back at the high end, and seeing brands looking for new ways to combine stones and materials in novel ways. Last week, Czapek announced a pair of watches that make particularly interesting use of mother of pearl. The Antarctique S Ice Cloud is, at a glance, simply an Antarctique with a mother of pearl dial. But there’s some special artisanal work that has gone into the making of this particular dial, which has been conceived as a “poetic interpretation of cloud formations in an icy landscape.” The dial is constructed from a piece of white mother of pearl that is cut to just 0.2mm thick – the height of two sheets of paper, according to Czapek. A varnish is then applied to the underside of the mother of pearl surface using a horsehair brush, which creates a cloudlike pattern that is unique to each dial. The varnish itself is tinted blue, and the art...
Worn & Wound
If you ever find yourself in the fortunate position of reviewing watches, you’ll quickly start compiling a mental list of the watches you’d like to see, wear, and spend time with. It’ll be a long list, and no matter how many watches you try, it’s not a list that will ever get shorter. I’ve been doing this for a few years now, and one watch that has always been near the top of my list was the Leica ZM 2, a passive GMT watch made to a high standard from - and there’s no other way of putting this - a camera company. Unfortunately, the ZM 2 has managed to continually elude me. That is, until now. There’s plenty to say about the ZM 2, but before we get into this too deeply, let’s get two things out of the way: First, I’m not sure it was a good move for Leica to rename its flagship watch so soon after launch. It’s confusing for the consumer, and a bit annoying to anyone trying to cover the watch. So, for clarity’s sake, let me say that the ZM 2 is the same watch launched under the L2 name a few years ago, and it’s the same watch that was reviewed under that name by other outlets. It’s a confusing move, one that has, I think, made it slightly harder for the ZM 2 to grab a foothold than it otherwise might have been. Which is a bummer because (and this is my second point): This watch is great, full stop. I loved wearing the ZM 2, and I would happily own this watch should I ever find myself in a position to do so. I know some will question Leica’s thi...
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Time+Tide
"You can't make an integrated bracelet watch without doing something interesting with the bracelet," says Ming Thein... and that's what he's done.The post The 56.00 Starfield is exactly what you’d expect of MING’s first integrated bracelet piece appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The overlap between car enthusiasts and watch enthusiasts is huge, but it seems as if the car industry might actually be doing more for enthusiasts.The post What can the watch world learn from the enthusiast car market? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
When I began writing my most recent article on the original Timex Q Nebula a month ago, I had no idea how timely its release would be several weeks later. My article hit the website on January 29th, and less than a week later, Timex announced the reissue of this model with the Red Vega moniker. While I had initially claimed in my work that I was the creator of the “Timex Vega” nickname, I will gladly concede my very small and inconsequential victory to Timex, knowing they must’ve brainstormed this name many months before I did. At this rate, I’m just happy to see this watch finally receive the proper reissue treatment. Let’s talk about its design and specs. First, of course, is the dial. The nebula pattern on the example featured in Timex’s promotional shots of the watch is phenomenal. With sharp edges and a bright red hue, it’s well executed and packs a vibrant punch. I haven’t heard if the dial design will vary between examples, so be on the lookout as other photos emerge to see if there are any differences in pattern. The 38mm brushed and polished stainless-steel case looks great from all angles and helps keep the case almost as interesting as the dial and crystal. Oh yeah, how did I not mention the crystal yet? These reissues will feature multifaceted acrylic crystals similar to those offered on the original 1978 model––a very welcome and unique touch. Having the unique perspective of a historian who’s done an ample amount of research on this sp...
Fratello
You’ve got to hand it to Papar Watch Co.; the young American brand certainly has a unique way of doing things. It all started with the radically brutalist Anillo GMT, and now the Cenote debuts. The Cenote Titanium + Blue and Rose Gold Titanium are dive watches with a design that builds on the angular, […] Visit Hands-On With The Angular Papar Cenote Titanium + Blue And Rose Gold Titanium to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
One trend in the microbrand/small independent category that I’m glad to see more of already in these early days of 2026 is brands doing more on their own, in-house. Those words, “in-house,” have developed an almost toxic reputation in some circles as they’ve been used liberally to imply a level of craft or development that is not really there when you strip away all the marketing talk. But a handful of brands are taking it back, using it to designate certain manufacturing processes that they’ve taken ownership of over overseas factories. Oak & Oscar has just announced a new watch, the Humboldt ExP-02 that reflects some of the ten year old brand’s new manufacturing capabilities in an exciting and unique way. At a glance, you could be forgiven for thinking this is an ordinary version of the Humboldt, Oak & Oscar’s “classic adventure watch.” Subtly, however, it shows off real watchmaking skill and a willingness on the brand’s part to experiment with new techniques. The centerpiece of the ExP-02 is the dial, which keeps the familiar sandwich style construction that Oak & Oscar is so well known for, but refines it and personalizes it for this piece. Every aspect of the dial manufacturing is done to a very high level in the Oak & Oscar workshop, using new watchmaking equipment that the brand has invested in specifically to create unique components for watches like the ExP-02. According to Oak & Oscar, the rehaut and main dial plate are both cut from alu...
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Monochrome
Simple solutions to complex problems could well be Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s overriding philosophy. Former curator of the Musée international d’horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Oechslin studied archaeology as an undergraduate and obtained a PhD in Philosophy – with a scholarship to study theoretical physics and astronomy – and became a Swiss master watchmaker in 1983. Bringing […]
Fratello
As a kid in the 1980s, I played with many toy cars from Siku, Majorette, Matchbox, and Tonka. I also played with Hot Wheels cars here and there, though I don’t believe they were that common here in Europe at the time. My dad still had his old Dinky Toys lined up in a special […] Visit Hot Take: A Brief Look At The Louis Vuitton Camionnette to read the full article.
Monochrome
Celebrating its original vocation as a Roman goldsmith and creator of fabulous high jewellery pieces glowing with brightly coloured gemstones, Bulgari kicks off LVMH Watch Week with a dazzling Tubogas Manchette in yellow gold. Fitted with Bulgari’s recently unveiled Lady Solotempo BVS 100 automatic movement, the gorgeous cuff marries the brand’s iconic Tubogas design to […]
Worn & Wound
Every year in January, Oris hosts a preview event for media in Vail, CO to show new novelties that will be introduced during the first quarter of the year, and previewing their focus for Watches & Wonders. While much of what we saw was under embargo and will only be revealed in the coming months, there was one new release that landed on the day of the brand’s presentation. The new Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye joins the collection this week, and slightly rethinks the Pointer Date formula that has been so successful for Oris over these past several years. Many of the best watches in this collection have worked thanks to a bold use of color (teals, greens, reds, and of course last year’s vibrant canary yellow version all come to mind). But this watch is more about graphics and contrast. The dial here makes use of gray and black tones in contrast to create what amounts, in practice, to a sector dial. Red accents provide some visual interest, but the dominant feature here is the cool “tuxedo” style presentation. At the preview event I thought it worked really well, particularly when you get the dial into strong natural light. The gray sections have a reflective quality that works well against the more matte black interior ring. It has a lot more depth than I was expecting, and legibility is really great thanks to the high contrast. The Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye is housed in a 38mm stainless steel case that at this point will be quite familiar to many. There...
Monochrome
After the now-cult-classic MIH Watch of 2005, an overtly minimalist Annual Calendar Chronograph developed by Ludwig Oechslin and Paul Gerber, and the Gaïa Watch series launched in 2019, the 2024 edition continues the museum’s approach to watchmaking. Indeed, before launching his own brand, Ochs und Junior, Oechslin was the curator of the Musée International d’Horologerie […]
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Teddy Baldassarre
Mickey Mouse is one of the world’s most iconic and recognizable characters and the smiling face of Disney Entertainment, whose vast universe of properties today encompasses everything from Cinderella to Spider-Man to Star Wars. The world first discovered Mickey way back in 1928, in the groundbreaking black-and-white cartoon Steamboat Willie. It was one of the very first cartoon films with synchronized sound and a milestone achievement for Mickey’s co-creator, Walt Disney, who had founded his eponymous animation studio with his brother Roy O. Disney five years earlier, in 1923. Today, that studio is a worldwide force in entertainment and Mickey Mouse’s image can be found on just about every type of merchandise you can imagine - including wristwatches from a surprisingly diverse range of producers and at a wide range of price points. Nearly a century after first appearing on a watch’s dial, Mickey Mouse continues to claim a small but enduringly popular niche in the world of horology. Here is a brief overview of Mickey Mouse watches from the 1930s to Disney’s centennial year of 2023. [toc-section heading="Ingersoll-Waterbury and the First Mickey Mouse Watch"] Photo Credit: Secondhand Horology Mickey’s instant popularity with audiences was such that it was only five years after his debut that the character found himself on the dial of a wristwatch. The circumstances behind the creation of the first Mickey Mouse watch, produced by the American watchmaker Inge...
Fratello
As 2025 winds down, it’s the perfect time to reflect on some of the standout microbrand watches released this year. That’s precisely what we’re doing in this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Nacho, Daan, and Thomas are back in the studio. Each has brought a list of three personal favorites - plus plenty of honorable […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Microbrand Watches Of 2025 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Canadian microbrand Ferro pens a tannic, wine red tribute to the 1930s in the form of a Art Deco-inspired two-hander.The post Revisiting Art Deco design with the Ferro Paramount Vino appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Gérald Genta, the famed creator of some of the most influential and daring watch designs, founded his eponymous brand in 1969, and in 2023, it was relaunched. Guided by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and Artistic Director Matthieu Hegi, Genta’s creations were revisited with both reverence and ambition. The Gentissima Oursin series, introduced last […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Certina Action Diver 38mm gets subtle upgrades for 2025, including fresh materials and refined styling.
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Monochrome
Chronoswiss has always moved in its own rhythm. From the regulator wristwatches that defined its 1980s identity to today’s bold Lucerne-built timepieces, the brand has never shied away from doing things differently. Few statements were as radical as the Digiteur, a watch without hands, powered by a mechanical calibre, yet read like an early digital […]
Fratello
The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar has just been uncorked, and it’s as spirited as its name suggests. This limited-edition monopusher chronograph merges Studio Underd0g’s tongue-in-cheek British design with William Massena’s connoisseur’s eye. The resulting watch celebrates excess. The dial blends the soft glow of champagne with the dark sheen of […] Visit Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The world of high-end watches is a bit mysterious, and that is largely by design. Flagship pieces are produced in limited quantities, and pricing generally falls into the "contact us for details" realm for many of the most expensive watch brands. New mechanical innovations make headlines and push the industry and its trends forward, but this comes at a cost, with the best in the game building a certain reputation by doing this consistently over the course of generations. The ultimate value that buyers and enthusiasts will perceive in these watches is created in time, and it goes without saying that this value is quite subjective in nature. There are a multitude of details that become more apparent, and are even demanded, at the higher end of watchmaking, however. There are vast differences in materials, finishing techniques, and even mechanical aspects such as an uncommon escapement design or power reserve delivery that separate the very top brands from what you might find at your local jeweler. Understanding the world’s most expensive brands will mean having a grasp on these differences. This is the kind of knowledge that will also go a long way in appreciating watchmaking as the art form that it is. As great art is more than some canvas over a wood frame, a mechanical watch is far more than some screws, springs, and gears. Within a watch, each of these components offer the watchmaker an opportunity for creative expression in the kinds of materials they chose to use...
Monochrome
Citizen… The very name of the brand is highly meaningful. “Watches made for all citizens.” Last year, when we visited the exhibition retracing 100 years of the brand, it became clear to me that the brand was doing things in a very particular way. The idea behind Citizen isn’t just to be accessible; it is […]
Fratello
When CIGA Design first released the Everest Central Tourbillon, it caught plenty of us off guard. Here was a young Chinese brand taking on one of horology’s most challenging mechanisms while doing it in a watch that actually felt emotionally grounded. Brad’s hands-on review from last year summed it up nicely: this was a watch […] Visit CIGA Design Scales Higher With The New Everest Summit Central Tourbillon to read the full article.
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