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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jun 3, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow”

Having devised the granular Frosted Gold finish that’s now found on several Royal Oak models, Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci has teamed up once again with Audemars Piguet, but on a collaboration that goes in an entirely different direction. This time it’s all about contemporary materials and aesthetics with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci Limited Edition 34 mm in black ceramic with an iridescent, laser-engraved sapphire dial and a generous dose of pink gold accents. Initial thoughts Though the Royal Oak has an unmistakable identity, Ms Bucci has proven that the iconic octagonal design can be a canvas for something different. Her latest creation proves that remains true. Although this is merely a new dial, the execution is novel enough to be interesting. The dial isn’t traditional in either technique or materials – the dial is ultra-modern in fact – yet still preserves the classic Royal Oak aesthetic with a chequerboard pattern that evokes its signature tapisserie guilloche. Pairing the iridescent dial with the muted black ceramic case makes the watch even more striking, resulting in an eye-catching aesthetic despite the moderate case of just 34 mm. Still, its modernity in both style and techniques means it could be criticised as a gimmick. But that is too harsh. It’s less timeless than a traditional Royal Oak, but still a timeless design. And it is definitely chic. The hands and applied markers are pink gold, as are the nuts on the bezel R...

Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin released May 27, 2022

Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000

Watches with that integrated-bracelet appeal and 1970s aesthetic are all the rage right now. Recently Vacheron Constantin released its 222 to some acclaim, and Tissot’s smash hit, the PRX, both underlined what many had already noticed – people love the design and clear-cut lines of integrated bracelet watches.  Let’s face it: while most of would love … ContinuedThe post Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: From combat divers in WWII, the legacy of the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues to evolve Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues May 25, 2022

VIDEO: From combat divers in WWII, the legacy of the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues to evolve

The Frogman is a black and white film from 1951 that depicts the contribution the US Navy divers made to WWII.  Following the death of their superior officer, the men of the Underwater Demolition Team chafe under the strict rule of Lieutenant Commander John Lawrence, a rule-bound leader who tries to crack down on team discipline. Following … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: From combat divers in WWII, the legacy of the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues to evolve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces May 16, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite

Although Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched about a dozen new wristwatch models to date in 2022, the standout new timepieces from the Le Sentier manufacture are a pair of clocks that share the same aesthetic. One is the very expensive Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590, and the other is the far more affordable Atmos Infinite. Most Atmos clocks are defined by their boxy exterior and classical dial, with the notable exceptions being those designed by collaborations like Apple designer Marc Newson and Hermes. Reminiscent of Mr Newson’s Atmos designs, the Infinite features a clean, monochromatic movement in a seamless glass cylinder, instantly setting it apart from the rest of the Atmos lineup. Initial thoughts Sitting alongside the Patek Philippe Dome Clock as an iconic timepiece in the clock category, the Atmos is one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best products in concept and execution. It’s powered by a simple yet ingenious mechanism that’s so effective it remains unchanged after almost a century. And it is offered in a surprisingly wide range of designs, many of which are affordable, with the entry-level model starting at just over US$7,000. The Atmos Transparente, a more typical example of the clock with its four-sided glass box But most Atmos designs feel dated, being more or less unchanged since the 1950s. The exceptions were the limited editions by the likes of Mr Newson and Hermes, which were all much more expensive. The most recent Atmos Newson, for instance, retails for...

“About 80% of human experience is filtered through our eyes.” IWC proves the power of Pantone® Time+Tide
IWC proves May 1, 2022

“About 80% of human experience is filtered through our eyes.” IWC proves the power of Pantone®

With any sort of commercial product, the choice of colour plays a crucial role in attracting the consumer. But watchmaking is a game of precision, an art ever striving for the pursuit of perfection. It is no longer enough to make a black dial these days, now it needs to be the blackest black or … ContinuedThe post “About 80% of human experience is filtered through our eyes.” IWC proves the power of Pantone® appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Oris Propilot X get a revamp and some fresh new colours Time+Tide
Oris Propilot X get Apr 5, 2022

VIDEO: The Oris Propilot X get a revamp and some fresh new colours

The ProPilot from Oris has long been a bit of a side character for the brand, with the aviation-inspired look having a fairly niche appeal when mixed with the smart-casual dial, hands and knurled bezel. Now, the Oris ProPilot X completely revamps the series with a new, cohesive design language filled with bold edges, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Oris Propilot X get a revamp and some fresh new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Head to head - what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe release Apr 3, 2022

VIDEO: Head to head - what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders?

“We’re here at the pinnacle of watchmaking – the top tier of the holy trinity!” That’s how Zach introduces Patek Philippe in this video with Ricardo that mulls over the brand’s best release of Watches & Wonders. And as you can quickly tell from his liberal use of superlatives – he’s pretty excited. But when it … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Head to head – what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Apr 2, 2022

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton

A hidden gem amongst Vacheron Constantin’s sports watches, the Overseas Tourbillon is thin, understated, and good value as such things go. Now it receives a thorough makeover. Gone is the dial and excess metal from the bridges, creating the new Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton. Available in two metals, the titanium variant is particularly intriguing as it’s a metal that is rarely used by the haute horlogerie watchmaker. Titanium with blue accents Initial thoughts Though polar opposites aesthetically, the Skeleton is every bit as handsome as the standard Overseas Tourbillon. In terms of finishing, aesthetics and watchmaking, the Tourbillon Skeleton is top of its class not only in the luxury-sports category but even among the brand’s other offerings. A reason for this is the well proportioned case that measures 42.5 mm wide and only 10.39 mm tall. This results in elegant, flat-and-wide proportions that defines the most desirable luxury sports watches. These proportions gives the watch a sporty aesthetic that is further enhanced by the blackened, skeletonised movement. In comparison, the base Overseas model is smaller in diameter but slightly thicker.   It’s also thinner than a open-worked Royal Oak and Laureato tourbillon The movement within is notable for balancing simplicity and complexity, which tends to be a challenge for skeletonised movements. In comparison, I find the latest Royal Oak Openworked Tourbillon too nuanced and the GP Laureato Openworked Tourbillon t...

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case

While Cartier has unveiled fancier and more complex watches at W&W; 2022, one of its standout new launches is amongst the more affordable, at least in steel. The Santos-Dumont Large Model in lacquer is unusual and interesting; very different from any recent Cartier yet clearly a product of the Parisian jeweller. Available in steel, gold, or platinum, the new Santos-Dumont has its case and bezel finished with coloured lacquer, while the dial has a concentric cube pattern. Though the lacquered case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a similar decoration, it is unique amongst Cartier’s current line up. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont is inspired by a 1920s watch with a lacquer bezel, giving it an unsurprising vintage vibe, yet it is entirely original. With its square bezel and Roman numerals, it is clearly a Cartier Santos, but it stands apart from its more mundane counterparts. I like everything about it, though I would have preferred it in the Extra-Large size, rather than the Large as it is now. Of the three versions, the steel model has the strongest vintage vibes with its black lacquer. The platinum model is striking and almost over the top in its colour, while the rose gold version lacks contrast. In steel with black lacquer While the platinum and gold versions are limited edition – as would be expected for such an unusual watch – the steel version is regular production, which is both unexpected and welcome news. And the watch is fairly priced in all its v...

Cartier Introduces the Masse Mystérieuse SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Masse Mystérieuse

Cartier’s wide-ranging new launches at Watches & Wonders 2022 naturally encompasses new takes on its historical designs, including the Tank Chinoise and lacquered Santos-Dumont. But its most extraordinary creation stands apart from the brand’s contemporary timepieces. The Masse Mystérieuse is essentially a floating movement within an oscillating weight. As the weight oscillates around the central axis of the dial, it winds the mainspring contained within itself. Initial thoughts Cartier abandoned its once ambitious push into highly complicated watches when its current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took charge in 2016. Mr Vigneron has stated publicly on several occasions that Cartier should not stray from its historical strength in simple, elegant watches in unusual forms. So the Masse Mystérieuse is definitely atypical, but that doesn’t take away from its fascinating mechanics. The complexity and creativity of its mechanics bring to mind an earlier era of Cartier watchmaking. While Cartier states that the Masse Mystérieuse was eight years in the making, it doesn’t mention who was responsible for the idea. It goes without saying that is was Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the former head of development at Cartier’s manufacture who now has the same role at TAG Heuer. The Masse Mystérieuse is instantly recognisable as her work, appearing to be evolved from the Astrotourbillon. Ingenious as it is, the Masse Mystérieuse is also similar to Ms Forestier-Kasapi’s pa...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement! Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix MoonSwatch mania Mar 25, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement!

It’s been an eventful week so let’s get right into it. To kick things off, I spent the weekend with Maurice Lacroix down in Miami to celebrate the launch of their latest evolution of the Aikon: the Aikon #tide. The Aikon #tide is both a playful and principled release, a colourful daily wearer with an … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Things are about to get crazy. The Tissot PRX now comes in a Valjoux-powered 42mm panda chronograph, and Australians can order it here today Time+Tide
Tissot PRX now comes Mar 11, 2022

Things are about to get crazy. The Tissot PRX now comes in a Valjoux-powered 42mm panda chronograph, and Australians can order it here today

The PRX Automatic Chronograph was always going to be a big deal. In its essence, it stands to be a hot chronograph line extension that, knowing Tissot, won’t come with an exorbitant price tag. And, with all of our collective fingers crossed, we hoped it would be mechanical. Someone pushing their luck might have had … ContinuedThe post Things are about to get crazy. The Tissot PRX now comes in a Valjoux-powered 42mm panda chronograph, and Australians can order it here today appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine Quill & Pad
Mar 3, 2022

Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine

Over the last few days, Dan-Andrei Kluska has watched the news in horror. He has lost sleep, he has cried a lot, and he feels that he has been paralyzed by the eruption of war in Europe. After the first shock wave passed and his tears dried, he started to think about the future and was sincerely fearful because a nuclear war would wipe out humanity as we know it. Here he challenges us all to do something (and some have answered the call).

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Mar 2, 2022

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby

Unveiled last year as part of Hermes’ annual collection of metiers d’art watches, the Arceau Space Derby is typical Hermes with its equestrian motif, but also strikingly different since the dial depicts a jockey riding a robot horse past planets and stars. The Space Derby is actually a pair of watches, a smaller one for ladies with the dial in pink opaline glass, and a larger model for men with an aventurine glass dial that is detailed below. But both have a similar motif on the dial that was taken from an Hermes scarf designed by French filmmaker and cartoonist Ugo Bienvenu. The larger, 41 mm Space Derby Initial thoughts Hermes adapts many of its most famous scarves for metiers d’art watches. Most of the resulting dials are whimsical and subtle in a manner typical of the brand. And Hermes does more of such watches, both in terms of range as well as number, than its immediate rivals Louis Vuitton and Chanel. The diversity of its offerings with artisanal dials is impressive in both style and technique – though horses, big cats, and birds are recurring themes – but even so the Space Derby is unique. While the theme of the Space Derby is still equestrian, it is has a pop art aspect that sets it apart from the usual metiers d’art fare from Hermes. So it’s still recognisably an Hermes watches, but a bit more funky and very much different. But the Space Derby is more than just a fancy dial. As is increasingly the case with fashion and leather goods brands, it is eq...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition Time+Tide
Seiko SLA055J1 Save Feb 28, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition

Seiko’s Save The Ocean series has been a favourite among the brand’s fans for years, with the charitable contributions and environmental associations delivering a host of fun new dial variations of established watches. While those Save The Ocean editions have definitely been a great option for anyone looking for something a little more unique straight … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Feb 26, 2022

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”

One of the four original models that Nomos launched as its inaugural collection in 1992, the Tangente is the brand’s longest-running model, having grown both literally and metaphorically – the case has expanded from a tiny 35 mm to today’s 41 mm, while the line has grown to include dozens of models. Now the Glashütte watchmaker has just given the automatic model an update to create the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” with a restrained dial that has a subtly sparkling grained finish and a case available in either 35 mm or 39 mm. Initial thoughts Despite being a simple iteration of an existing model, the Platinum Gray is a pleasing addition to the range. The highlight is the elegant dial, which calls to mind another watch made in Nomos’ hometown, the platinum Lange 1 nicknamed “Stealth” for its silver-on-silver palette. But the Tangente is clearly different – and far more affordable – as it looks less formal with its large Arabic numerals (and ironically the typography was inspired by vintage Lange wristwatches). Like other recent Nomos watches, the Platinum Gray is a variation on a theme – essentially just a new dial – which makes it repetitive. The lack of innovation or novelty can leave Nomos feeling unexciting at times, though the strong design identity and affordability of the brand remains appealing, as does its affordability. With a price tag that starts at US$3,070 and rises to US$3,780 depending on the case size and back, the Platinum ...

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Feb 20, 2022

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC

With the introduction of the new TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Chronograph 60th Anniversary Silver dial, the brand bought back a classic design to one of its most storied lines. This alone would have been enough for TAG Heuer fans. However, they didn’t stop there. Instead, they doubled down on the design to give us … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chinese Artisans Team Up Under the Aegis of Celadon SJX Watches
Feb 17, 2022

Chinese Artisans Team Up Under the Aegis of Celadon

Having commissioned a series of double-crown, cloisonné world time wristwatches from Andersen Genève, Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee now turns to Chinese artisans for his latest collaborative project. The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century is the work of AHCI member Lin Yong Hua and Xiong Songtao, a third-generation enameller who created the cloisonné dial. Initial thoughts The watchmakers are proficient at making – and marketing – métiers d’art, but Chinese watchmakers are fairly new entrants to the high-end of this field, making the Century an unusual offering. The Century is an entirely different animal from the low-end watches that are often associated with the made-in-China label. Both in terms of the dial and movement, the Century takes things to another level, while possessing a refined, clean style. The entire dial is cloisonné enamel comprised of an impressive amount of gold wire to form the intricate motif. In fact, the fine cloisonné work resembles brush strokes from afar. It’s certainly appears to be top class work in both complexity and quality. And the movement is comparable in quality, which is unsurprising since it was developed by Mr Lin, who is best known for his quirky, hand-made wristwatches. The finishing is excellent, as evidenced by the rounded bevelling on the three-quarter plate. But while the Century does well in intrinsic quality, it seems to lack identity. While the watch is well designed and finely made – especially con...

Oris Aquis Sun Wukong Artist Edition: Creating An Uproar (In Heaven) Quill & Pad
Oris Aquis Sun Wukong Artist Feb 15, 2022

Oris Aquis Sun Wukong Artist Edition: Creating An Uproar (In Heaven)

Fantasy, high artistry, and solid watchmaking whimsically coalesce in Oris’s limited edition Sun Wukong Artist Edition, the just-introduced timepiece inspired by the Chinese animated film 'The Monkey King: Uproar in Heaven.' And in a novel twist for this usually affordably priced brand, the dial presents hand-rendered cloisonné enamel, an art form used by Oris for the first time.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 collection Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 collection Feb 9, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 collection

The Aquaracer line from TAG Heuer has become as iconic to the history of the brand as the Monaco and the Carrera, given that it can trace its roots all the way back to the 1978 Reference 488. Although the name wasn’t conceived until 2004, it’s almost impossible now to leave them out of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s most intriguing offerings Feb 5, 2022

Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe

A short-lived model in production for just a few years – it was replaced by the Centigraphe in 2008 – the Octa Chronographe was nevertheless one of F.P. Journe’s most intriguing offerings in technical terms. While based on the standard cal. 1300 found in the simpler Octa models, the chronograph movement utilised a stopwatch mechanism integrated into the base plate under the dial. In other words, the chronograph was integrated but located where a modular setup would typically be. As a result the Chronographe remained the same height as less complex Octa models (though that thinness would cause a variety of problems with the functionality, especially with the date). Its technical details – which vary across generations – are just one aspect of the watch detailed in A Collector’s Guide for the Octa Chronographe by F. P. Journe by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4Moi. (At the same time it’s worth revisiting the guide to the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite that I wrote in 2016, making it one of the first-ever Journe “guides”.) Octa Chronographe no. 001 that sold at Phillips in November last year Though the first in numerical sequence, it was not actually the first example produced as indicated by its details Unlike many recent “guides” that rely on plagiarisation or secondary sources, Mr Mehta’s article cite facts and figures from F.P. Journe itself. For instance, he tells us that only 35 examples of the Octa Ch...

VIDEO: G-Shock’s next evolution of the CasiOak and more Time+Tide
Casio ak Feb 3, 2022

VIDEO: G-Shock’s next evolution of the CasiOak and more

Casio’s G-Shock are one of the most quietly prolific brands out there. The catalogue is massive, and there’s no point in making a big deal out of a single release when so many hits come flying one after the other. That said, their lack of pushy advertising does mean that the cult of G-Shock can … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: G-Shock’s next evolution of the CasiOak and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022 Time+Tide
Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Jan 27, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022

Unless you’ve been marooned on a desert island for the past several years, you’re probably all too aware of the rainbow colourway boom in the horological world. And let’s face it, some of these timepieces are, shall we say, aesthetically more harmonious than others. For every rainbow Daytona out there, there are twice as many … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.