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Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aug 10, 2022

Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon

It’s the tail-end of the 1980s, and you and your stockbroker buddies are ripping down the Autobahn in the two fastest cars in the world – the Ferrari F40 and Porsche 959. Suddenly, you notice a flash of yellow in your rear-view mirror, which disappears in front of you as quickly as it appeared behind. … ContinuedThe post Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition: The Subtle Difference Is Black Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition Aug 9, 2022

Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition: The Subtle Difference Is Black

For a relatively small manufacture like Armin Strom, scaling the production is not an easy thing, nor something that is always as desirable as it looks. However, creating watches that remain virtually unobtainable for most (potential) clients also isn't. That is why Armin Strom is already releasing the second edition of the Orbit, which is also limited to 25 pieces.

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Emmanuel Breguet Talks Fakes In The Time Of Abraham-Louis Breguet And Much More Quill & Pad
Breguet Talks Fakes Jul 28, 2022

Emmanuel Breguet Talks Fakes In The Time Of Abraham-Louis Breguet And Much More

Jan Lidmaňský interviewed Emmanuel Breguet, vice president and head of patrimony at Breguet. He chatted with this direct descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet about fakes in the time of Breguet, which watch is still missing from the Breguet Museum’s collection, how many pieces the company has acquired at auction over the last 20 years, and much more.

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What’s it like to wear a Casio Edifice for a week Time+Tide
Casio Edifice Jul 24, 2022

What’s it like to wear a Casio Edifice for a week

Casio Edifice is a brand we’ve been taken a closer look at over the past couple of months, out of intrigue for their price-to-performance ratio. The Edifice collection as a whole has something for everyone – from simple three-handers to solar pieces with busy dials, the latter of which I spent (nearly) a week with. … ContinuedThe post What’s it like to wear a Casio Edifice for a week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Introducing: The Legacy Machine Perpetual From MB&F; Hodinkee
MB&F Jul 14, 2022

Introducing: The Legacy Machine Perpetual From MB&F;

Max Büsser and his cohorts at his horological think tank, MB&F;, have, without question, created a bewildering variety of watches over the years that have used horology as a jumping off point for the exploration of a highly idiosyncratic vocabulary of watchmaking, in which mechanics put themselves at the service of an aesthetics that freely mingles everything from pop culture to science fiction to sometimes alarming arachnomorphism, and beyond. However, what MB&F; thus far has largely not addressed itself to is the world of traditional complications – other than the tourbillon, used by MB&F; for its aesthetic impact, you will look in vain for anything beyond a simple calendar or a moonphase. Now, however, MB&F; and Büsser have gotten into the complications game in a big way: they’ve launched their own perpetual calendar, and, what’s more, they’ve done so with an in-house movement, with a variation on the perpetual calendar mechanism unlike anything we’ve seen so far.

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Feature-packed models from Casio Edifice Time+Tide
Casio Edifice After our initial Jul 3, 2022

Feature-packed models from Casio Edifice

After our initial overview of an all-encompassing Casio Edifice collection, we thought we’d take a closer look at what they do best – pieces packed with features and functionality. Through clever integrations of their many quirks, they each have the ability to pair with your phone via Bluetooth, which will bring out the best of … ContinuedThe post Feature-packed models from Casio Edifice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Yema debuts new refined diver fit for Kal-El – the Superman 500 Time+Tide
Yema Jul 2, 2022

VIDEO: Yema debuts new refined diver fit for Kal-El – the Superman 500

With a name like Superman, the Yema diver, which originates from the `60s, has to live up to its robust nomenclature. Revamped and refined, the Superman 500 now boasts a 50 ATM depth rating, with two case sizes and dial/bezel colours to choose from. Finding a dive watch with rich heritage, 500 metres of water-resistance, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Yema debuts new refined diver fit for Kal-El – the Superman 500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated Time+Tide
Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no Jun 15, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated

Big, bold and built like a tank. That’s the condensed version of the new Fortis Marinemaster M-44, which is a take on the best adventure watch possible by the brand from Grenchen. Normally lauded for their flights to the stratosphere and beyond, the Marinemaster is an under-the-radar choice from an already under-the-radar brand. From the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Bradley Taylor eventually returned Jun 14, 2022

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria

Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including  “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen Time+Tide
Jun 10, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen

Hey Everyone, It’s Ricardo and I’m jumping into the Friday Wind Down today.  This week, things died down a bit after the all-out blitz of releases we saw prior. Which in turn opened my schedule up to finally experience what some have called a trip to watch Mecca. And that is the recently opened AP … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jun 3, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury

Mr McUtchen, a.k.a McSteamy, continues to leave me green with envy stateside. His latest escapades abroad include having an oceanside chat with actor Patrick Dempsey on all things TAG Heuer in Monaco for the Grand Prix – which he got to enjoy in a private box as well. It’s good to be the king… As … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 2, 2022

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver

Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...

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In-Depth: MB&F; LM Sequential EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Jun 1, 2022

In-Depth: MB&F; LM Sequential EVO

MB&F; has just rolled out its very first chronograph, which becomes the second model in its EVO line of sports watches that began with the LM Perpetual EVO, now the brand’s bestselling watch. Christened the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, the new chronograph continues with the same aesthetic of an open dial that reveals the mechanics along with a streamlined case. The LM Sequential EVO is most interesting for its movement, which is paradoxically complicated yet simple. Developed by Stephen McDonnell, a constructor who’s been a longtime collaborator with MB&F;, the movement is a double chronograph capable of recording twin times simultaneously along with a “Twinverter” mechanism that can either operate both chronographs or invert them – a complicated endeavour. But the setup is a simple one, essentially two discrete chronograph mechanisms that operate independently but linked by the inverter mechanism. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the LM Sequential EVO when I first saw the watch. It is a big, imposing watch with sleek lines and a wide face that is filled to the edges with intricate mechanics and quadruple sub-dials packed tightly together. Despite its size, the watch wears well due to the shape and length of the lugs, while looking like a grand complication on the wrist. And once I understood that it was a double chronograph, I was even more impressed; it looks even more complicated than the top contenders in the category, namely the Lange Triple Split and Au...

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HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer pays tribute to the Monaco “Dark Lord” with a new Special Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer pays tribute May 28, 2022

HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer pays tribute to the Monaco “Dark Lord” with a new Special Edition

The TAG Heuer Monaco is an irrefutable classic. Which is why it is one of the select references we tackled in our series The Icons. Born in 1969, the Monaco changed the game as it was the first automatic, square and water-resistant chronograph. The watch gained further notoriety on the wrist of Steve McQueen in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer pays tribute to the Monaco “Dark Lord” with a new Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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TAG Heuer Reimagines the Monaco Dark Lord SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Reimagines May 27, 2022

TAG Heuer Reimagines the Monaco Dark Lord

On the opening day of the 2022 Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Heuer Monaco Special Edition, which takes its cues from the Monaco ref. 74033N, the all-black model from the 1970s nicknamed the “Dark Lord”. While it might look like a reissue at a glance, the new Monaco ticks all the right boxes in terms of vintage-inspired design without being a remake. Initial thoughts While TAG Heuer frequently turned to vintage remakes in recent years, the brand has now pivoted towards contemporary designs and concepts, a move exemplified by the Carbon Monaco and Carrera Plasma. The new Monaco Special Edition continues that – but at an affordable price point. The original “Dark Lord” is an attractive watch – the all-black look goes well with the square case and 1970s feel – and so the new Monaco is as well. But the new model is appealing because it is not a one-for-one remake, which would have been an easy to pull off but less interesting. The special edition manages to channel the feel of the vintage original by using rose gold accents on the dial, along with the textured outer section that brings to mind vintage synthetic leather straps. But it is entirely modern in materials and mechanics. The case is coated titanium, while the movement is the in-house Heuer 02. And this costs only US$300 more than a Monaco powered by an ETA movement, making it an easy choice for anyone who likes the model. The vintage Monaco “Dark Lord” ref. 74033N “Dark Lor...

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Louis Erard Introduces the Le Régulateur Massena Lab SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces May 26, 2022

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Régulateur Massena Lab

Having made collaborations a habit, Louis Erard’s latest joint venture is with Massena Lab, an American brand that is equally adept at collaborations. Together the two have put together the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Massena Lab. In contrast to its recent abstract or Bauhaus collaborations, the Louis Erard’s new regulator is resolutely classical. It takes inspiration from the aesthetics of 18th century timepieces, which were all brass, steel, and frosted gilt, explaining the colours and granular dial finish. Initial thoughts Demonstrating Louis Erard’s versatility when it comes to collaborations, the Massena Lab regulator is basically a new dial style for the brand’s signature model yet it manages to look different enough that it’ll please someone who already owns a Louis Erard regulator. Although the grained dial is produced with industrial methods, it is a good approximation of a traditionally frosted dial and looks good on the wrist. Between the two I favour the gold-plated dial for its contrast, though the large case size means the rhodium version is appealing for its restrained palette. But because the new pair are essentially the standard regulator model at heart, they also has the dimensions of the standard model, which is bigger than would be ideal, especially in terms of thickness. At the same time, the two watches are priced in an accessible fashion typical for Louis Erard – just under US$3,900 in this case – making them well-priced propositions...

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Breitling Introduces Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 May 24, 2022

Breitling Introduces Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 Limited Edition

One of the watches synonymous with the pioneer era of spaceflight is the Breitling Cosmonaute, which was worn by Scott Carpenter on the 1962 Mercury-Atlas 7 mission, making him the second American to orbit the Earth and the Cosmonaute the first Swiss-made wristwatch to make it into space. The Cosmonaute has been part of the Breitling catalogue in various forms in the decades since, but now for the 60th anniversary of Carpenter’s journey to space on board the Aurora 7 spacecraft, Breitling has unveiled a remake, the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute Limited Edition. The 362-piece edition is faithful to the original in terms of design, but upgraded with the in-house Caliber B02 and a bit of luxe in the form of a platinum bezel. A page from the 1964 Breitling catalogue showing the Navitimer-Cosmonaute ref. 809, the same model worn by Carpenter in space Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the distinctive aesthetic of the Navitimer – it is actually an aviation instrument – and the Cosmonaute is essentially a more complex version of the same thing, making it even more of an instrument. Granted all of that functionality has very limited use in the modern world, but it is still an appealing watch that possesses significant history. That in turn makes the Cosmonaute remake an appealing watch, especially since Breitling did a good job reproducing the original. The diameter remains the same but the modern-day version is necessarily thicker due to the in-house B02 movemen...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A one of a kind visit to London and a pit-stop at The Wing with Bremont Time+Tide
Bremont I’m pushing through May 20, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A one of a kind visit to London and a pit-stop at The Wing with Bremont

I’m pushing through the jet-lag, fresh off the plane back in New York City after a week in London. I only wish I could have stayed longer, but fortunately the days I was there were packed with fun and watches – 162 to be exact. Having been to their exhibition in NYC back in 2017, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A one of a kind visit to London and a pit-stop at The Wing with Bremont appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands-On: F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece Unique SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece May 5, 2022

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece Unique

François-Paul Journe is perhaps the most successful living independent watchmaker – so successful that some of his watches have entered the same “hype” territory occupied by watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – which might mean that casting about for an overlooked F.P. Journe watch is a fool’s errand. But the brand does have a few hidden gems in amongst its past offerings, with the Zodiaque being one such watch. And Phillips’ upcoming Geneva sale has a one-off version that I had never seen in person until recently, the Zodiaque “Children Action” – which will be sold to benefit the titular children’s charity. The original Zodiaque. Image – Phillips The original Zodiaque debuted in 2004, just five years after the brand was founded, in a limited edition of 150 pieces. Despite its distinctive aesthetic and esoteric complication, the Zodiaque never enjoyed the success of its peers at the time, perhaps because of that very complication, which indicates the signs of zodiac with an annual calendar ring. Remember that in the years after the brand’s founding in 1999, F.P. Journe was merely a startup founded by a talented watchmaker with a peculiar personality; his watches weren’t exactly flying off the shelves. Yet Mr Journe still created this one-off watch for a good cause, which eventually became a yearly affair with the brand contributing unique watches to several charities, including subsequent timepieces for Children Action and of course the rec...

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Northern Lights For Ukraine: GoS Auctions Unique Piece Norrsken For Charity Quill & Pad
Apr 27, 2022

Northern Lights For Ukraine: GoS Auctions Unique Piece Norrsken For Charity

Patrik Sjögren of GoS was already active on Instagram in support of Ukraine in early March, at which time he saw an opportunity to help in the form of a collaboration with artist Matthew Miller (@sunflowerman.watch). The result is the GoS Northern Lights for Ukraine Norrsken unique piece now being auctioned by Sotheby's. Elizabeth Doerr explains what it is and how it came about here.

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