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Monochrome
Hamilton is well known for its American military-inspired Khaki Field watches, which are among the best values in the business. Titanium variants are nothing new to the expansive series, but a collaboration with New York design house Engineered Garments brings a small(ish), all-titanium automatic that’s stripped to the essentials. It doesn’t reinvent the wheel or […]
Time+Tide
Buffy explores the history of the wristwatch, which goes back further than you might think.The post How did watches evolve into wristwatches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
As one of the most important advocates of high-end German watchmaking – which feels relevant considering the importance of the brand’s name, being the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking – Moritz Grossmann has long demonstrated its ability to create technically advanced watches. And in recent years, we’ve also witnessed the creation […]
Our ongoing Enthusiast Spotlight series is all about uncovering passionate people who care deeply about the objects with which they surround themselves. For our latest installment, we spend the day with aviation enthusiasts and pilots Erin and Paul Hooker from Phoenix, AZ. These two young and ambitious aviators define enthusiasm to a tee. For them, flying has become an absolutely essential part of their live/work/play equation. Precision gauges and instruments are now more important to them as ever. We strapped some of Citizen’s latest Promasters, including both Sky and Dive models, onto their wrists to get their first impressions and understand just how important having a robust tool watch is to their day-to-day. The post Enthusiast Spotlight: Flying the Friendly Arizona Skies with Erin and Paul Hooker and Citizen Promaster Sky appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
In my ongoing quest to find budget alternatives to the several thousand-dollar watches I pine over, I’ve discovered a new timepiece for which I’ve developed mixed feelings. The Duxot Henri Diver Automatic is the latest in my collection. I bought it after trying on an Omega Seamaster Professional 300m with the white dial and falling in love with it. Knowing it’d be a while before I could afford the Omega, and realizing it was just a little too large for my small wrists, I set out a suitable alternative.
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Time+Tide
We asked you on Instagram which you preferred, now find out which of the two major Speedmaster releases from 2024 the T+T team picks.The post New Omega Speedmaster battle: First Omega in Space or white lacquer Speedy Professional? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Established in 2000 just as Panerai was started on its ascent to being the hottest brand of the following decade, Paneristi is a community of brand enthusiasts. Panerai is marking the group’s 25th anniversary with the Luminor Venticinque PAM02025, which was just launched at P-Day 2024, an annual global gathering of Panerai fans that just took place in Kuala Lumpur. According to Panerai, the PAM02025 was conceived as a modern take on the Luminor 1950 PAM00127 “Fiddy”. Employing the 44 mm Luminor 1950 case, the PAM02025 has the classic Luminor design, but with modern aesthetic tweaks, including a “brunito” steel case of brushed, aged alloy and a gradient blue “sandwich” dial. Initial thoughts The PAM02025 has many elements that will appeal to Panerai enthusiasts who like its traditional designs, including the pencil hands and “upside down” crown-lock bridge. Panerai certainly took note of the feedback about the prior Paneristi edition that sported a large anniversary emblem on the dial (which is now relegated to the case back). It’s best described as a modernised take on the historical Luminor since the design is old school, but the smoked blue dial and “brunito” steel case mark it out as a watch of today. No doubt some Paneristi will have left out the modern elements and opted for the larger, 47 mm case plus a correspondingly larger movement, but the PAM02025 is a good compromise between new and old – different but doesn’t feel like it’s trying...
Monochrome
This year, Swiss watchmaking brand Delma celebrates 100 years since the company which led to its creation was founded in Lengnau with a few notable exemplars released to mark the occasion, like the Delma 1924 Tourbillon, made in collaboration with the renowned La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker Olivier Mory, or the Delma Heritage Chronograph 100 years. Also, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain is the oldest Swiss watchmaker in existence, founded in 1735, as well as one of the most respected and, it is fair to say, one of the most intimidating for a newcomer to approach. This is not just because of the uniformly high prices - nearly all fall within a five-figure range - but also because of the vast diversity within the maison’s collection, which has emerged naturally after literally centuries of uninterrupted watchmaking. Many savvy watch enthusiasts, even ones relatively new to the game, are at least passingly familiar with the brand’s Fifty Fathoms dive watch and its place in that popular category’s historical pantheon, but remain largely unaware of other intriguing timepieces within Blancpain’s portfolio - some simple and understated, others paragons of horological complexity. Moreover, some of these aspirational aficionados are likely seeking out their first Blancpain watch, and attempting to decipher exactly what an entry-level timepiece from the venerable brand would be - what it costs and what it offers for that price. Continuing our “Price of Admission” series (which kicked off with Bilal Khan’s spotlight on Cartier), I will be examining the least expensive choices for an entry-level Blancpain, covering dress and sport options as well as a variety of case materials. Like most any watch brand in the luxury category, Blancpain’s most approachable models from a price perspective are those in cases of steel, rather than pr...
Worn & Wound
Clement Meynier, an engineer, was fascinated by the automotive and horological world, which led him to enroll in a watchmaking training center in Geneva. Six years ago, he established his watch brand called Depancel, a name derived from a combination of three French car manufacturers: Delage, Panhard, and Facel. He aims to create watches that embody the same philosophies and creative freedom as those represented by these historic brands. Since its beginning, they have also established strong connections with the motorsport world. This includes participating in events such as the Rétromobile Paris and Epoqu’Auto Lyon and serving as the Official Sponsor of GPX Racing. Most recently, the company has partnered with the Masters Historic Championship at Silverstone in the UK. New for 2024, Depancel is updating its Allure watch with a sleeker and more refined 36mm stainless steel case. The lug-to-lug tip measurement is only 42.8mm, and the overall thickness is just 10.95mm, making it suitable for any gender or wrist size. The cushion case design of this watch is inspired by the 1970s, and it is made almost entirely of brushed steel, with the bezel being the only part that is mirror-polished. The short angular lugs and the shape of the end links give the appearance of an integrated bracelet, even though it is not. This design allows the watch to resemble an integrated bracelet sports watch, which is currently very popular while allowing you to pair it with your preferred straps...
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SJX Watches
The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...
Monochrome
Japanese nature and culture have long been a deep source of inspiration for Grand Seiko, which has managed to merge serious watchmaking credentials with a unique sense of style, infused with references to its country of origin. For most of its watches, this connection with Japan takes shape on the dials, which are known to […]
Los Angeles, California instantly conjures images of sea, sun, and starlets. However L.A. is also a treasure trove of architectural gems, many of which have become icons of both film, design, and culture. Many of these buildings were either designed during or heavily influenced by the Art Deco movement of the 1920s and ‘30s. March LA.B is a French watch company that’s deeply inspired by the design cues emanating from Southern California in the early 20th century-specifically in Los Angeles-hence the “LA” embedded within their name. Their watch design nods to the great architectural icons built during this booming area oozing with style, sophistication, and a certain je ne sais quoi. We took March LA.B’s newest model, the AM2 GMT, along for the ride while photographing three of L.A.’s most iconic Art Deco architectural gems, the Los Angeles Central Library, the CalEdison Building, and the Griffith Observatory. Coming all the way from Biarritz, France (a.k.a. the B in their name), the AM2 GMT was created to be an ideal companion for both cross-continental travel and curated urban exploration. The post Exploring and Photographing Art Deco Gems in Los Angeles with March LA.B’s New AM2 GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
After being discontinued in 2020, the First Omega in Space is back and has a few tweaks which make it a true homage.The post The second-generation Speedmaster First Omega in Space is back, with a few key differences appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...
Video
On episode 90 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss covers three exciting and fun new releases, two of which have uncommon complications. First up is the new Formex Stratos UTC, which while being a GMT, operates unexpectedly. Next, is the new Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, a non-limited version of the watch they released with Christopher Ward a few years back. Lastly, we have the Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon, which continues the brand’s playful take on pilot instrumentation. Check it out below, and please like and subscribe. This episode was sponsored by Sternglas and their new Naos Pro Automatik Watch. As a special feature with this release, early buyers can secure a gold-toned Miyota 9015 movement. Head to sternglas.com to learn more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 90: Formex and Fears Focus on Fun (Complications) appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
Frederique Constant takes a consistent, evolutionary approach to the design language used in its Classic collection. Sometimes those evolutionary leaps are larger than others. This is certainly the case with two additions to the collection released earlier this year: the Manufacture Classic Date, and Classic Moonphase Date, which have undergone a series of both small and large changes that represent a marked maturity for the brand. The new watches will find themselves squarely in front of a new audience as a result, and bring a welcome set of options in the often neglected formal genre at a sub-$5,000 price point. In hand and on wrist, these watches bring a surprising level of sophistication thanks to a keen attention to detail. If this isn’t a brand you’ve taken seriously in the past, it might be time for a second look. In an era dominated by sports watches and so-called GADA watches, it’s easy to forget just how essential a dedicated clean, classical, formal watch can be. They are easy watches to overlook, as their beauty lies in the small details rather than big, eye -catching flourishes, but with a little patience, these watches can be just as compelling as anything else out there. If the brand respects the process, that is. With minimal complications, scales, and bezels to work with, the design and execution of the few details that are present are paramount to evoking the necessary emotions. There is nothing to hide behind here. The odd shape or finish of an h...
Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre says the two new Reverso Tribute Monoface models are a perfect fit for both men and women. Well, first, we must try these watches in real life before passing a judgment like that. They look promising, though, thanks to their dimensions, which stay close to the original Reverso from 1931. Other new additions to […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface In A New Size And Two Colorways to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Originally conceived as a prop for the sci-fi film Interstellar, the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 mm is now available with a white dial or a stainless steel bracelet. This expands the Khaki Field Murph line two beyond the 42 mm original and the first 38 mm model that was only available with a black dial on a strap. The scaled-down Murph retains the same design as the original, which played a key role in the film directed by Christopher Nolan, which starred Jessica Chastain as Murph, a scientist working to save the Earth. Initial thoughts The Murph was a hit when it went from screen to store in 2019. It had a clean, vintage-military aesthetic with cathedral hands and no date, along with an affordable price tag. Now the white dial arguably gives it a more dynamic look than before, with the white adding contrast and also setting it apart from the numerous other military-inspired watches. Though the design isn’t novel, the Murph 38 mm is appealing for being simple and affordable. Starting at US$895 on a strap, the Murph 38 mm sits in between comparable watches from its sister brands Tissot and Longines, and is also in between in terms of fit and finish. In other words, it is priced right. Vintage-inspired aesthetics Water-resistant to 100 m, the Murph’s stainless steel case is a compact 38 mm in diameter, though tall at 11.1 mm high. The case is mainly brushed, except for the mirror-polished bezel. The optional steel bracelet has a matching brushed finish. And like most m...
Monochrome
Bulgari’s personality is intrinsically shaped by Rome, incorporating elements of the city’s magnificent imperial architecture into its fabulous jewellery and watches. The iconic Octo family, which includes the invincible legion of ultra-thin, record-breaking Octo Finissimo models, welcomes the new Octo Roma Striking 8 Days. If the watch looks familiar, it’s because the movement powering this […]
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Quill & Pad
There are some watches you fall for the moment you see them. Sometimes that initial infatuation passes and you move on to the next temporary obsession, but then there are those instances in which the more you see, talk about, and learn about a piece and its origins the more you resolve to save up to buy one. For GaryG, the Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire was one of the latter.
SJX Watches
Announced a month ago, IAMWATCH is a three-day event centred on independent watchmaking that encompasses lectures, classes, and panel discussions. Taking place in Singapore from October 18 to 20 at the Edition hotel, Iamwatch has just revealed its programme for the event, which promises three full days – from breakfast to sundown drinks – of watches, watchmakers, and watch industry personalities. Entry is free but registration online is required. Boldface names attending the event include independent watchmakers Felix Baumgartner, Konstantin Chaykin, Kari Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi; watch entrepreneurs Jean-Claude Biver, Manuel Emch, Maximilian Büsser, and Jean Arnault; and auctioneers Aurel Bacs and Sam Hines. Konstantin Chaykin, Felix Baumgartner, and Rexhep Rexhepi Each day begins with a breakfast hosted by industrial notables, including Maximilian Büsser on October 19. The breakfast is followed by a full schedule, including daily lectures about history and horology by historian David Rooney, author of About Time, a history of timekeeping. Jean Arnault, Aurel Bacs, and Manuel Emch Afternoons include classes on various topics, including Jean-Claude Biver on being a watchmaking entrepreneur – a pitch perfect match of speaker and subject if there ever was one. Panel discussions take place daily as well, including one dedicated to independent watchmaking on the final day, October 20, moderated by myself with Felix Baumgartner, Kari Voutilainen, Rexhep Rexhepi ...
Worn & Wound
Picture this: You’re playing Thursday night trivia and the DJ asks which watch was first worn on the moon. The softball question generates bar-wide high fives as everyone celebrates their collective awareness of Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster that forever married watches and space travel into pop culture lore. Less than a year after we took our first small steps on the moon, the Apollo 13 mission sought a return to our celestial stomping grounds. Once again, a watch stole our collective attention, this time as part of the ill fated Apollo 13 mission. The world heard the phrase “Houston, we’ve had a problem here” and held its collective breadth as the safe return of three astronauts packed into a Lunar Module 200,000 miles from earth became dependant on their ability to precisely time a 14 second burn of the module’s thrusters – a task achieved with a NASA qualified Omega Speedmaster. John F. Kennedy famously declared that we choose to go to the moon not because it is easy, but because it is hard. While nothing about the nearly tragic Apollo 13 story makes this land-loving watch nerd want to get a closer view of the stars, others feel inspired to embody Kennedy’s words and to keep pushing farther… 586 times farther, to be exact. Kicking off this exciting new phase of space travel is NASA’s Artemis Program, which will bring a new generation of astronauts to the moon with new technology to be used on the quest for Mars. The Watch Watch collectors looking to cel...
Time+Tide
America's Cup is going on, which means sailing watch releases aplenty. This is Hublot's take on the theme.The post It’s all hands on deck at Hublot, casting off with the new Big Bang Unico Sailing Team appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...
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