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IN-DEPTH: The Doxa Army makes a welcome return to active duty Time+Tide
Doxa Army makes Apr 27, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Doxa Army makes a welcome return to active duty

When researching rare vintage watches, there is usually a wide pool of resources. The same meticulous qualities that make the Swiss so good at watchmaking tend to make them even better at keeping records, which is partly why we still know so much about Doxa’s most famous 1967 releases, the SUB 300 and SUB 300T. … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Doxa Army makes a welcome return to active duty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nivada Grenchen Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” SJX Watches
Nivada Grenchen Introduces Apr 25, 2022

Nivada Grenchen Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel”

A brand that went defunct during the Quartz Crisis like many of its peers, Nivada Grenchen was resurrected in 2020, again like many of its peers. While the historical brand was perhaps best known as one of the earliest makers of the automatic wristwatch, Nivada Grenchen now offers affordable, vintage-inspired watches that seem straight out of its old catalogue. The brand’s signature product is a 38 mm hand-wind chronograph modelled on a 1960s original, which now gets an Eastern Arabic makeover with the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” Limited Edition Set. Made for the eponymous Dubai watch store, the watch is packaged in a box that includes a leather watch case and Chronomaster Only, a reference book detailing the history of Nivada. Initial thoughts If you like vintage-style chronographs, Chronomaster is an appealing proposition in its original form, thanks to the restrained case size that’s identical to the vintage original. And the Sellita movement inside means the Chonomaster is an affordable entry into the world of retro, hand-wind chronographs, which is admittedly crowded with many, many comparable options. But this version is slightly different. Typical of Perpétuel editions – and reflecting the store’s regional focus – the Chronomaster gets Eastern Arabic numerals for he dial and bezel. Though such numerals have become relatively common and predictable on Middle East editions, this is noteworthy for two reasons. One is the fact that all the numerals on ...

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week Time+Tide
Apr 24, 2022

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week

Years ago, when I watched the documentary The Watchmaker’s Apprentice, which details the journey of George Daniels and the path of watchmaker Roger W. Smith becoming his sole apprentice, I remember being awe-struck at the meticulous art of watchmaking and  the perseverance required to achieve mastery in the field. Since that documentary, however, there have not … ContinuedThe post Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time Design Exhibition: Hands And Eyes On The Beauty Of Watchmaking Quill & Pad
Apr 22, 2022

Time Design Exhibition: Hands And Eyes On The Beauty Of Watchmaking

If you attended Watches and Wonders 2022, you may have noticed the large exhibition called Time Design right near the entrance, which was organized by the cultural arm of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. If you missed the Time Design exhibition at the fair, you may now see it until May 8, 2022 in the FHH’s space at Pont de la Machine right in the center of Geneva. It is free and open to the public.

HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Apr 21, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic

Nivada Grenchen are one of those brands that make you wish you’d heard of them years before you first saw them due to their knack of delivering some of the most perfect executions of vintage reissues that can be found in the Swiss watch industry today. The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic takes … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers Repeater Apr 16, 2022

Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater

Taking place every two years in Venice, Homo Faber is an exhibition dedicated to craftsmanship of all forms, ranging from glass to porcelain to fabric. Because its organiser is the Michelangelo Foundation established by Johann Rupert, the plain-speaking chairman of Richemont, several of the Swiss group’s watchmakers are taking part. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is presenting a pair of one-off striking watches at Homo Faber – the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeaters Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”. The watches each recreate one half of Wind God and Thunder God, a pair of folding screens made by 16th century Japanese painter Tawaraya Sōtatsu that depicts the titular gods of Japanese mythology. Initial thoughts Owned by a temple in Kyoto, the folding screen is a National Treasure of Japan, a cultural object deemed so important by the Japanese government that it cannot be exported. The screen is certainly a worthy subject for a high-quality miniature, and Vacheron Constantin appears to have done justice to it. The dial decoration is perfect for a repeater, since the brand’s cal. 1731 minute repeater movement is relatively large, resulting in an expansive dial that is usually blank. It’s an ideal canvas for artisanal decoration. Vacheron Constantin’s enamel work, whether in house or done by independent artisans like Anita Porchet, is usually impeccable. The repeater dials definitely look the part. In fact, the miniatures of the gods are im...

Talking With Anthony De Haas About The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 At Watches And Wonders 2022 (Video) Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2022

Talking With Anthony De Haas About The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 At Watches And Wonders 2022 (Video)

As part of its classy offering at the world’s remaining trade fair for luxury watches, A. Lange & Söhne revisited the Grand Lange 1 with a successful refresh in which the brand managed to shave close to a millimeter off the height of the watch. How did the team do it? Technical director Anthony de Haas lets us in on the magic in this video.

4 Radical Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Rado Apr 7, 2022

4 Radical Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris – Reprise

In recent years, the world of high-end watches has become a far more colorful place. We have evolved from decades of conservatism in which a blue dial was daring to a kaleidoscopic era where anything is possible. And now red arrives, which has the advantage of a richness of hues. Here Martin Green looks at four new red-dialed watches from Bell & Ross, Oris, Rado, and Omega.

F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I – with a Few Tweaks SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Revives Apr 1, 2022

F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I – with a Few Tweaks

One of the most unusual amongst F.P. Journe’s offerings, the Vagabondage I was the first of a trio that combined a tortue case with an unconventional time display, along with dials that feature no branding at all. Launched in 2004 and long gone from the brand’s catalogue, the Vagabondage I now makes a return with a new case, dial, and movement – all of which are improved over the original. Initial thoughts The original Vagabondage I was interesting because of its wandering, jumping hour display, along with the central balance wheel visible on the dial. Eighteen years later the new Vagabondage I is interesting for the same reason, because it is essentially the same watch. While the new Vagabondage I has been updated in several ways, ranging from a larger case to a new movement, it retains the familiar look. That also means it looks like a watch from the early 2000s with a slightly dated air compared to most wandering hours on the market today. But that’s exactly what makes it cool. It is an old idea but one that has been improved in just the right ways. Most important amongst them is the case, which wider and longer than the original, giving it dimensions almost identical to the Vagabondage II and III. It still remains elegant and wearable, but the new case size is more appealing than that of the original, which is a little too small. Inching forward Fans of the brand will be familiar with the story of the Vagabondage, but here’s a quick recap: it start with a on...

VIDEO: Zach & Ricardo react to the Grand Seiko novelties (spoiler alert: they’re pretty excited…) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko novelties spoiler alert they’re Apr 1, 2022

VIDEO: Zach & Ricardo react to the Grand Seiko novelties (spoiler alert: they’re pretty excited…)

Our latest video is courtesy of the Grand Seiko novelties which caused a pretty big stir amongst the team and wider watch community with the release of the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon. Grand Seiko has decided to only make 20 of what is their most complicated piece yet. The boys also delve deep into the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Zach & Ricardo react to the Grand Seiko novelties (spoiler alert: they’re pretty excited…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Patek Philippe remind us there’s more to life than sport watches Time+Tide
Patek Philippe remind us there’s more Mar 31, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Patek Philippe remind us there’s more to life than sport watches

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Patek Philippe remind us there’s more to life than sport watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Panerai diversifies the Submersible range Time+Tide
Panerai diversifies Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Panerai diversifies the Submersible range

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Panerai diversifies the Submersible range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Chopard collection overview Time+Tide
Chopard collection overview Editor’s Note Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Chopard collection overview

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Chopard collection overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Cartier reveals the shape of things to come for 2022 with expansive range of novelties Time+Tide
Cartier reveals Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Cartier reveals the shape of things to come for 2022 with expansive range of novelties

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Cartier reveals the shape of things to come for 2022 with expansive range of novelties appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: The Baume et Mercier Classima collection delivers a range of sporty everyday warriors Time+Tide
Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: The Baume et Mercier Classima collection delivers a range of sporty everyday warriors

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: The Baume et Mercier Classima collection delivers a range of sporty everyday warriors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon”

Vacheron Constantin opens its doors at Watches & Wonders 2022 with diversity of timepieces ranging from the sporty to artisanal, but its most classical offering is the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in a fashionable “salmon”. With the model having been launched over a decade ago and then gently upgraded in 2016, the new version is merely a facelift. But still it’s noteworthy for combining a platinum case with a “salmon” dial, both currently desirable attributes, which should help make this a strong seller (which also explains why it will only be available at boutiques). Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Traditionnelle is the dial – the only element that’s different compared to the original launched six years ago. Though less intriguing because it’s popular and common today, the new dial is nevertheless a good move that gives the model a new lease of life. While the rest of the watch apart from the dial isn’t new, it does have several features that make it stand out, most obviously the large, 43 mm case with a flat, wide bezel, a bold look for a relatively classical watch. While the large diameter does improve the legibility of the complex dial, it will not appeal to traditionalists who favour smaller cases. But the movement will certainly appeal to traditionalists. The cal. 1142 QP, which is based on the Lemania 2310, was long the movement of choice in a variety of old-school classics such as the Patek Philippe ref. 5970. Vacheron ...

Cartier Introduces the Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise

After having reimagined signature models like the Tank Cintree and Tank Asymetrique, Cartier now turns it attention to something less well known. The Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise arrives just in time for the 100th anniversary of the original Tank Chinoise, which was inspired by traditional Chinese architecture. Unlike past Cartier Privé models that adhered closely to earlier versions of the model, the new watch takes more liberty in reimagining the Tank Chinoise, which was last available in 2004 as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP). A 1930 Tank Chinoise of the type that inspired the 2004 CPCP version Initial thoughts For fans of the 2004 Tank Chinoise, which was very square yet made up of rounded edges and lines, the new model will be jarringly different with its angular form. Yet for anyone who appreciates a traditional Tank, the new Chinoise is more like a Tank than any past version of the design. I like the redesigned case. Where I would have wished for something different is the dial, which repeats the same elements found in past Cartier Privé models; a bolder dial would have gone better with the restyled case. However, Cartier certainly went all out with the skeleton version, which is striking and original. It comes close to being too much with its Chinese-inspired motifs, but not quite, so it still looks and feels tasteful. Allongée The new Tank Chinoise is akin to a Tank Allongée – it’s an elongated version of the earlier CPCP Tank Chinois...

INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity Time+Tide
Longines Elegant Collection Mar 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity

Longines is a brand that knows how to use their heritage, which you would expect from the company with the world’s oldest active registered trademark in the iconic winged hourglass. Even when a design is completely new and modern, their logo on the dial is just instantly tied to a lineage of watches that seems … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SevenFriday Introduces the Peculiar and Alien Free-D SJX Watches
Richard Mille Mar 27, 2022

SevenFriday Introduces the Peculiar and Alien Free-D

A maker of affordable watches with unconventional styling, SevenFriday is now a decade old. To commemorate the milestone, the brand has unveiled the Free-D. To put it mildly, the Free-B adds three-dimensionality to the brand’s trademark time display comprised of rotating discs. And in a first for the brand, which has historically relied on Miyota, the Free-D is powered by a Swiss-made movement, Sellita to be exact. Initial thoughts While SevenFriday has increasingly felt like a “fashion” brand with its endless iterations of the same design, the brand has produced timepieces that are genuinely compelling. The Free-D is certainly one of the more interesting examples of its unorthodox design, though the over-the-top style is an acquired taste to say the least. Bold, extra large, and definitely peculiar, the Free-D is actually based on the brand’s signature “squircle” case but dressed up with a 3D-printed external shell and lugs. The added parts do exactly what they are meant to, which is to elaborate on the brand’s traditional case style to distinguish it for the anniversary. And they give the watch a decidedly alien aesthetic – it looks like a prop from a sci-fi film. At the same time, the external cladding on the case is essentially plastic. Granted, plastic of various types is widely used in high-end watchmaking – Richard Mille and Hublot are proponents of its use – but it is certainly not for everyone. In contrast, the time display is simple but easy...

Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 24, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary

Not long after Citizen unveiled the Caliber 0200 in early 2021, it followed up with an affordable alternative, the Series 8 870. Resembling its bigger brother with an integrated bracelet, the Series 8 outperforms in its price segment. And just as Citizen unveils a limited edition Caliber 0200 in shades of grey, it is also taking the covers off the Series 8 870 First Anniversary Limited Edition, which features an all-black case matched with a carbon-composite dial. Initial thoughts While the standard 870 has excellent fit and finishing considering the price, it is available with just two dial options – black or silver – that are pretty plain, especially when bold textures or colours are all the rage. The new 870 caters to current fashions, but still remains low-key in a manner that’s typical of Citizen’s higher-end watches. With its cleaner look, the all-black case is an improvement from the two-tone standard model, while the carbon composite dial adds a degree of interest that is only obvious up close. It’s also an unusual take on the patterned dial, which is typically stamped. Unlike the standard model, this has a see-through back. The movement has been made a little more interesting with a gilded rotor, which stands out even more than usual as the case is entirely black. In fact, the gilded rotor is the sole bit of colour on the watch, but one that will only be known to the owner. Arguably the only shortcoming of the new 870 is the lack of a bracelet. Th...

Introducing the Urwerk UR-100V ‘Time and Culture’ SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-100V ‘Time Mar 23, 2022

Introducing the Urwerk UR-100V ‘Time and Culture’

Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei visited Singapore in September 2019 and we had lunch with at the Marriott along Singapore’s Orchard Road, sitting outdoors to enjoy Singapore’s uniquely tropical weather. Thanks to an inspiring afternoon with the pair, it was just after that lunch that I first mooted the idea of a UR-100 with a cover over the front. I sent over this awful mock-up I created on Photoshop, which was clearly inspired by the UR-103, an old favourite of mine. After a back and forth with Felix and Martin, and a few long pauses in between, an idea took shape. In June 2020, I further refined the idea in an email to the pair, “I have an idea of a watch inspired by the ancient Mayan astronaut myth… something like an UR-100, but with metal covering more of the face… with an engraved Mayan pattern…”. The starting point A serious watch with a sense of humour is something that appeals to me, so the rationale for the concept was tongue in cheek: Urwerk makes sci-fi watches, so a Mayan motif was perfect since it was once believed the first person in space was a Mayan astronaut. The myth arose from a misinterpretation of the motif on a Mayan ruler’s sarcophagus (you can find out more about supposed ancient astronaut by reading up on “Kʼinich Janaabʼ Pakal“). Not long after, I elaborated on the idea and suggested a yellow gold case with an emerald cabochon in the crown. Unfortunately that was not to be (although some green did make it ...

Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 18, 2022

Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours

Of Omega’s novelties for the year (which include a 6000 m dive watch and solid-gold Speedmaster Moonwatch) the Seamaster Aqua Terra is the most affordable while also offering the widest range in terms of style and size. The brand has just taken the covers off the latest Aqua Terra range made up of ten watches evenly divided into 34 mm and 38 mm cases, but all in vibrant, upbeat colours. The 34 mm model with a Lagoon Green dial Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic appeal, the latest Aqua Terras are a wonderful addition to the line up. They show that Omega has begun to loosen up in terms of dial colours and style, which will no doubt help widen its audience. Another point of appeal is the dial finish. While the colours are bright, they aren’t in-your-face thanks to a brushed finish. And the 34 mm model also sports more rounded forms for the hands and hour markers that give it a more elegant feel. Overall, it makes for a versatile watch that’s not too sporty. And it’s also good news Omega has done away with the linear motif inspired by the wood decks of a sailboat that was long synonymous with the Aqua Terra. The 34 mm quintet That said, the collection immediately call to mind the Oyster Perpetual from 2020 that was an instant hit thanks to its range of colourful, lacquered dials. That leaves the new Aqua Terra feeling like a trend follower rather than trendsetter. Only time will tell whether this approach is conducive to the positioning of the brand. (To be fair,...

Recommended Reading: A Guide to the F. P. Journe “Tourbillon Nouveau” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s second-generation Tourbillon Souverain Mar 7, 2022

Recommended Reading: A Guide to the F. P. Journe “Tourbillon Nouveau”

F.P. Journe’s second-generation Tourbillon Souverain, the” Tourbillon Nouveau” or “TN”, was the longest-lived iteration of his first wristwatch model. Produced for 15 years from 2003 to 2018, the TN was replaced in 2019 by the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical (“TV” for short), which was launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Francois-Paul Journe’s first tourbillon wristwatch. Though the first-generation Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and second-generation TN were fundamentally identical – both combined the tourbillon with a constant force mechanism – the TN brought with it several improvements. Most notably, the TN marked F.P. Journe’s transition from brass to 18k red gold for its movement plates and bridges – an impressive breakthrough at the time. The Tourbillon Souverain Regency with a hand-engraved dial The development of the TN along with its various iterations have been detailed in The Tourbillon Nouveau Collector’s Guide by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4moi. Relying on information from F.P. Journe itself, Mr Mehta explains the differences between the first- and second-generation tourbillons before moving on to production numbers and variants. He estimates only 750-850 examples of the TN were produced over its 15-year production run, most of them in the standard catalogue variations. But in his opinion, the rarest standard configuration is likely the version with both the dial and case in rose gold. The ...

Michael Caine’s Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells for £125,000 at auction Time+Tide
Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells Mar 3, 2022

Michael Caine’s Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells for £125,000 at auction

As Michael Caine went from strength to strength in the 1970s, he was frequently pictured with a gold Rolex. I’ve written before about my love for the Day-Date on a leather strap that he wore in Get Carter. But Caine also showed his forward-thinking mindset by also snapping up this 18K gold Oysterquartz Day-Date, which … ContinuedThe post Michael Caine’s Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells for £125,000 at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.